tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-74590813039949471392024-03-18T09:57:37.599-07:00Forks in Our RoadEat. Hike. Drink. Live. Enjoy.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.comBlogger971125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-36960785572302949072024-03-14T10:36:00.000-07:002024-03-14T10:36:05.938-07:00Old Chef, New Trick<p>The last time I ate at Taco Bell would have been when my daughters were tiny young things. My eldest, Lillie, loved their bean burritos and would ask for them from time to time. And very occasionally, I would relent. You're beat; it's late and you're scrambling to get groceries after work; the kids are screaming; you know the drill!</p><p>Time flies and now that little girl is an internal medicine resident at a hospital in North Carolina. Seemingly without my noticing, it has been a very long time, a full generation or more, since I ate at Taco Bell (or for that matter, any fast food joint). As a consequence, I have no familiarity with their products, bean burritos aside, if even they sell such a mundane (although pure profit) item any longer.</p><p>Apparently in recent years, Taco Bell makes a thing called a crunch wrap, which according to hearsay is their biggest selling item, but one of which I have been woefully ignorant. Call me culturally illiterate.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8v_iIq6wtcs2Dgny5ywwa7ayRX6egM-UKGs0Io7SKaSzAomEUMoSdyUFjsfvbuZD9i36mc8QmcEWuFKvsWizdmtFLCFnY3qqHhZasXPdCps_wvXDobwknknYGxdsRfnKwHOmlzkkWJiD0dl4r1zdxWTG50bKSlkB1fkYALyjSWmh1mpoUgsEbjX3-UzOJ/s2701/IMG_1643.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2026" data-original-width="2701" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8v_iIq6wtcs2Dgny5ywwa7ayRX6egM-UKGs0Io7SKaSzAomEUMoSdyUFjsfvbuZD9i36mc8QmcEWuFKvsWizdmtFLCFnY3qqHhZasXPdCps_wvXDobwknknYGxdsRfnKwHOmlzkkWJiD0dl4r1zdxWTG50bKSlkB1fkYALyjSWmh1mpoUgsEbjX3-UzOJ/w400-h300/IMG_1643.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chipotle Black Bean Crunch Wrap</td></tr></tbody></table>Ann and I first encountered crunch wraps at a local vegan food truck, a large flour tortilla folded to completely enclose a vegan filling and then the whole shebang browned on a flat-top. When I tasted Ann's crunch wrap, even though I wasn't enamored of the filling (not a huge fan of vegan cheese; sorry Tony!), I thought that the idea in itself might deserve to be permanently enshrined in the stoner-food hall of fame. <p>Recently, Ann asked me to make crunch wraps for dinner so I made sure to get some really big flour tortillas at the store. Then, it was just a matter of making a decent filling (onion, poblano, cilantro stems, garlic, black beans, minced chipotle, cumin, New Mexico ground chile, salt, and Mexican oregano) and rounding up some other filling ingredients (cilantro leaves, sliced green onions, pickled jalapeños, grape tomatoes, and cheese).</p><p>The next step was to reverse engineer the fold to encase the fillings, which proved to be trivial. I understand that Taco Bell puts the crunch in the crunch wrap using a tostada that also helps stabilize the whole assembly. For my part, I merely cut down a piece of flour tortilla to lay on top of the filling to give the large flour tortilla a good surface against which to seal. The whole thing folded naturally into a hexagon as if it were intended that way. I got it on the first try.</p><p>I didn't feel like it needed a tostada, but then, I'm not marketing to stoners and I don't need my crunch wraps to be stable for portability.</p><p>While my experience was trivial, I'm sure that the food engineers at Taco Bell spent countless hours determining how to fold the tortillas in a cost- and time-efficient manner such that their employees could knock them out profitably and consistently across all their stores. [My limited consulting with a large food manufacturer has shown me first-hand what a huge and involved process this is.] And no doubt, there is probably a patent or two lurking about the PTO to protect their product from commercial imitators.</p><p>Taco Bell: thanks for the idea! New trick for the old chef!</p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR3OcGQGGIeKehFKcvVVNserPm4Ffp08FzZQfx7ooAO9L6lsqjcbSdbAGjJgdAuwo7tkFDTDQEB30IH0pVxfksS16Nqb2A2I84Gb1r1kG6bdJgTHpk6gRaceM_Ifq4TnY12D-EcmEhdMMfbf95GC4Zgln8ieuK6gOJ6jZ3lkhWGRqQLMkUUbZysTyL5Jss/s3486/IMG_1637.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="2615" data-original-width="3486" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR3OcGQGGIeKehFKcvVVNserPm4Ffp08FzZQfx7ooAO9L6lsqjcbSdbAGjJgdAuwo7tkFDTDQEB30IH0pVxfksS16Nqb2A2I84Gb1r1kG6bdJgTHpk6gRaceM_Ifq4TnY12D-EcmEhdMMfbf95GC4Zgln8ieuK6gOJ6jZ3lkhWGRqQLMkUUbZysTyL5Jss/w400-h300/IMG_1637.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGD29CFtemeHC0lKE_3jYcoAwkZifOP8dd27UbPksDfQTDI2sq2snY3BsRJZnfiLpmZcyK93obuICUbKv8GRgOsbx-2MfeuSwDJZZ2sf1DxFSwPooCS1Go2c2UvZll8izVPdryCBI8NUoC7vs8hbGZ5m4OOS7pKFuG-tx-k77-A0LIjZDx5oNrjVwAH3P/s3181/IMG_1645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2386" data-original-width="3181" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWGD29CFtemeHC0lKE_3jYcoAwkZifOP8dd27UbPksDfQTDI2sq2snY3BsRJZnfiLpmZcyK93obuICUbKv8GRgOsbx-2MfeuSwDJZZ2sf1DxFSwPooCS1Go2c2UvZll8izVPdryCBI8NUoC7vs8hbGZ5m4OOS7pKFuG-tx-k77-A0LIjZDx5oNrjVwAH3P/w400-h300/IMG_1645.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixR8pIdJO8nw6cSw47xBeo1RAnEVtNpg0OBFE-BTbRNABvqJeSdrDvWnbV1wezneW-duovR1AQICbJ-BlmHzTniVbs__O27L5O-IUGP5TS960Q2uvyUveAdB8FHxnky_-Jj811ke-rudrAVHoxLThSdluyVCofA1WmXWY0eo_CLBYmbDKPQwk0A1cI_Ks6/s2717/IMG_1641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2038" data-original-width="2717" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixR8pIdJO8nw6cSw47xBeo1RAnEVtNpg0OBFE-BTbRNABvqJeSdrDvWnbV1wezneW-duovR1AQICbJ-BlmHzTniVbs__O27L5O-IUGP5TS960Q2uvyUveAdB8FHxnky_-Jj811ke-rudrAVHoxLThSdluyVCofA1WmXWY0eo_CLBYmbDKPQwk0A1cI_Ks6/w400-h300/IMG_1641.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>These stoner-food gems were so good, I confess to have made them two nights running, albeit with slightly different fillings each time.Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-24360779678692844712024-03-14T10:12:00.000-07:002024-03-14T10:12:54.057-07:00Christmas Lima Beans Bourguignon<p>As I continue to play with the box of dried beans that I got from Rancho Gordo at the beginning of the year, next up on my list was the bag of gorgeous Christmas Lima Beans, huge limas with chestnut-colored mottling.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4b7VZZtsOXjtJzlHJaqTwuUHR1g7vGGaNj1zqgkQ1gILe4W9AjPio7LaYviHHXkohftJisiuAP-JfhbMxRzxUAiCMqq-_zKWGQGG7oEWUv27adzEB7Tr3K1RQc5exa7FbHy7qyp-fxxAdO3Fr6OTc7A95iPCF5lM6Pvdq2T1LR3K4Y-nKItbTRn0H27zE/s4032/IMG_1631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4b7VZZtsOXjtJzlHJaqTwuUHR1g7vGGaNj1zqgkQ1gILe4W9AjPio7LaYviHHXkohftJisiuAP-JfhbMxRzxUAiCMqq-_zKWGQGG7oEWUv27adzEB7Tr3K1RQc5exa7FbHy7qyp-fxxAdO3Fr6OTc7A95iPCF5lM6Pvdq2T1LR3K4Y-nKItbTRn0H27zE/w400-h300/IMG_1631.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas Limas After Overnight Soak</td></tr></tbody></table>These huge beans are reportedly quite meaty, so I decided to treat them like meat. And I was disappointed with the results, truth be told. But not all our dishes can be wins, can they? Not if we're experimenting.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Rummaging through the pantry, I saw my canister of dried porcini and that cued me to braise these limas with bacon, onions, porcini, and red wine, in the manner of <i>boeuf bourguignon</i>. <div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCO2P68R7iwjcXHyXK4vq5DWevKeo_h_7lM6RFOFPCUqImdxrHmTlTaJDZEoZzWU7dJRQw0DEYnoYYzmWPtqUX7ALGlyHvaNlyOYACRT6P5IHhyphenhyphenjgxHxMCEdpq_Igrm6sSZGu8a7_pztSKi6BfXG4dKXElpogIvvZCKaHoPtfY9Z98IqF0m2QY255-FFI/s4032/IMG_1632.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlCO2P68R7iwjcXHyXK4vq5DWevKeo_h_7lM6RFOFPCUqImdxrHmTlTaJDZEoZzWU7dJRQw0DEYnoYYzmWPtqUX7ALGlyHvaNlyOYACRT6P5IHhyphenhyphenjgxHxMCEdpq_Igrm6sSZGu8a7_pztSKi6BfXG4dKXElpogIvvZCKaHoPtfY9Z98IqF0m2QY255-FFI/w400-h300/IMG_1632.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dried Porcini</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDv8GcE2aB0fgwAzUs1HVcmBCVuM3l6IQ3kKi0umrU9jZuY0Z2fBHLUg5H20BfVggh7NXXaC_zRXhwPTUJne99XAOvfuIR1NremfG0iDoFbdqoGsxWX6sKpTFN255k6k_EtYky7HN5xhtn8a-ACipgVp4i4k-ac8hbjUMMklNchcNpume3DlVVAWTPpH0a/s3563/IMG_1633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2672" data-original-width="3563" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDv8GcE2aB0fgwAzUs1HVcmBCVuM3l6IQ3kKi0umrU9jZuY0Z2fBHLUg5H20BfVggh7NXXaC_zRXhwPTUJne99XAOvfuIR1NremfG0iDoFbdqoGsxWX6sKpTFN255k6k_EtYky7HN5xhtn8a-ACipgVp4i4k-ac8hbjUMMklNchcNpume3DlVVAWTPpH0a/w400-h300/IMG_1633.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mirepoix: Leek, Onion, and Carrot</td></tr></tbody></table>I cut several strips of bacon into crosswise strips called lardons and then rendered those lardons. The lardons went into the slow cooker with the beans while I poured off most of the bacon grease and sweated the leeks, onions, and carrot in the remaining grease. As the onions became translucent, I sprinkled a couple tablespoons of flour over the vegetables and cooked the mixture for another couple of minutes. Finally, I added a half a bottle of Pinot Noir to the pan and let the sauce thicken for a couple of minutes before pouring it over the beans in the slow cooker.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRi9A8eyYjxVrsN5W6yFUpFTEYoc2pKV5fT5lzKu5_c7cLRaKohVM9Wg4qolvzjxmoFDIY7x8ckCs2UFBBNlOHkk2Q733WJ-Cp1EQzV9NsEMSJ5Xkzhpq9ORdOVgVuKRE7fCYisdUqeqQq72EgSaUubjj3Uftq8-6XdAZSpnxIXpqzEmnaDjLIU3LbUuT/s3614/IMG_1634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2710" data-original-width="3614" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRRi9A8eyYjxVrsN5W6yFUpFTEYoc2pKV5fT5lzKu5_c7cLRaKohVM9Wg4qolvzjxmoFDIY7x8ckCs2UFBBNlOHkk2Q733WJ-Cp1EQzV9NsEMSJ5Xkzhpq9ORdOVgVuKRE7fCYisdUqeqQq72EgSaUubjj3Uftq8-6XdAZSpnxIXpqzEmnaDjLIU3LbUuT/w400-h300/IMG_1634.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas Limas with Porcini Liquid, Porcini, Bay, and Thyme</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicf8i74KjEYVJE0kCSctAwfRelUmsZhSnNIcgFzaR8UjaOR5P_49nSIRzZjCTTRBtQMD57H1AhsS8xNH_1L78IakcPK3n-s7y5PUeRETQtcFvh0h_QwT_DdPRUyXXavVg4t2ZNtP8ZFVoYjNvCJyDmFEZf5invqdWecfnBPAq9nw1FWKroeSAEcwL8QUM2/s3606/IMG_1635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2704" data-original-width="3606" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicf8i74KjEYVJE0kCSctAwfRelUmsZhSnNIcgFzaR8UjaOR5P_49nSIRzZjCTTRBtQMD57H1AhsS8xNH_1L78IakcPK3n-s7y5PUeRETQtcFvh0h_QwT_DdPRUyXXavVg4t2ZNtP8ZFVoYjNvCJyDmFEZf5invqdWecfnBPAq9nw1FWKroeSAEcwL8QUM2/w400-h300/IMG_1635.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Added Bacon Lardons, Mirepoix Sweated in Bacon Grease, and Pinot Noir</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkuPSFj1xlAk_e6tuDguP5V3za0wTYtSJJwcgDzHEeg6l4k0tInrqdq-DyBn3G6tukdhYdCjUlIvtvfOwNw_CUH-WE7PoxtC1EFHP8-VDWo9KrTxvw7EPyjxS4rQ9EMaurSkTC3ecIkK6WvSkQZ_BslASM2LOwjHPJsJ5J60Y_M12ntYr-Cw1a7S43axw/s4032/IMG_1636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkuPSFj1xlAk_e6tuDguP5V3za0wTYtSJJwcgDzHEeg6l4k0tInrqdq-DyBn3G6tukdhYdCjUlIvtvfOwNw_CUH-WE7PoxtC1EFHP8-VDWo9KrTxvw7EPyjxS4rQ9EMaurSkTC3ecIkK6WvSkQZ_BslASM2LOwjHPJsJ5J60Y_M12ntYr-Cw1a7S43axw/w400-h300/IMG_1636.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">7-1/2 Hours Later: a Big Bowl of Beans</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">I mentioned above that I wasn't happy with this dish. It was tasty and perfectly edible, but I won't be doing it again for two reasons. First, the melding of the beans with the bourguignon technique yielded something less than the original dish made with beef. The delicious red wine gravy added nothing to the beans. And second, after soaking overnight and then braising for 7-1/2 hours, a full third of the beans were still crunchy and not cooked through. To me, this seems like a quality issue with the beans and not an issue with my cooking of them.</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">These beans are so beautiful. I'm a bit sad that I'm not jumping for joy after having cooked them (and truth be told, probably will never again do so).</div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-79633608064415774782024-03-08T10:31:00.000-08:002024-03-08T10:31:41.153-08:00Riding the Proverbial Bicycle: Killer Potato Gnocchi<p>Here in beautiful Central Oregon in early March, we've endured an extended stretch of snowy weather that continues to influence our dinners, making us crave warm, filling, slow-cooked meals, rather than the light, crisp, and refreshing meals that warm weather will make us desire.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZyXeHTBIBoePFONcIdvBBcO803zj-fZhPfYs0QU1oTONKAzqilJzmfShL-nU0OYgJ9h82_6oSQZxSGdB4VerA8uwX-6-7Fm9RbznnjycnLhXCN5wRi4uRW9IwJofOVhi8vJvW8F6Sc50E4ldBZbKjdRUGl1weBYAL-UujfOGii7iKmSNcFESraHbalgVW/s3410/IMG_1629.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2558" data-original-width="3410" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZyXeHTBIBoePFONcIdvBBcO803zj-fZhPfYs0QU1oTONKAzqilJzmfShL-nU0OYgJ9h82_6oSQZxSGdB4VerA8uwX-6-7Fm9RbznnjycnLhXCN5wRi4uRW9IwJofOVhi8vJvW8F6Sc50E4ldBZbKjdRUGl1weBYAL-UujfOGii7iKmSNcFESraHbalgVW/w400-h300/IMG_1629.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Potato Gnocchi with Pork Ragù</td></tr></tbody></table>The other day with snow streaming out of the sky, Ann and I were nestled under blankets on the sofa opposite the fire when she mentioned seemingly out of nowhere that pasta with pork ragù would make an awesome dinner. She was thinking of the bag of ragù that I had stashed in the freezer from the last time that I made a big batch. And no doubt she was thinking that we'd spend some together-time in the kitchen knocking out a batch of fresh pasta.<p>A few minutes later, I was walking through the kitchen where I spied three big russet potatoes starting to sprout on the counter. These unfortunate-looking spuds sat unused from one of our planned dinners back at the end of the year, a dinner that we cancelled on account of illness. Those potatoes prompted me to ask Ann if gnocchi would scratch her itch, rather than fresh pasta. We agreed on gnocchi to go with the ragù.</p><p>It's been a good long time since I made potato gnocchi. At least for the last decade and probably longer, I have been making ricotta gnocchi almost exclusively. But I am no stranger to making potato gnocchi, having made countless of the little dumplings in my life.</p><p>In fact, I remember on a dark day at my restaurant spending a majority of the day making a huge batch of potato gnocchi with my friend Frank, a typically brusque New York Italian and a hell of a baker, to serve at a big charity event. That batch started with five 50-pound cases of russet potatoes and a 50-pound sack of flour! So yeah, I have some experience making potato gnocchi.</p><p>Making potato gnocchi for the first time in ages was like riding the proverbial bicycle for me. Once you know how to ride, even if years have elapsed since the last time you rode, you can hop right on and pedal away. Like riding a bike, making gnocchi is something that you have to do for yourself to learn. I can write you all the instructions in the world for riding a bike, but that is in no way going to help know what it feels like to maintain your balance. Ditto for gnocchi. Learning what a proper gnocchi dough feels like is 100% a hands-on experience. Fortunately, learning to make gnocchi is much simpler than learning to bicycle.</p><p>Two final thoughts on potato gnocchi. First, ideal gnocchi should be light little pillows that remind you of mashed potatoes. The wetter the potatoes, the more flour you have to add to the dough to be able to handle it. The more flour you have to add, the denser and more leaden the gnocchi are and the further away from the ideal they become.</p><p>So, a lot of people recommend that you bake your potatoes rather than boil them, the thought being that baked potatoes do not absorb water as boiled potatoes do. While that is true, the gnocchi end up tasting of baked potatoes rather than of good mashed potatoes. For me, baking potatoes results in less than ideal gnocchi, even if they are easier to make and clean up. So I boil them exclusively.</p><p>Second, the type of potato that you use for gnocchi really matters. Gnocchi are not the place to showcase fancy potatoes. Save your cute waxy potatoes for potato salad and <i>salade niçoise</i>. What you want for gnocchi is a starchy, dry potato. Fortunately, the ideal gnocchi potato is one that we grow here in Oregon and next door in Idaho. This potato is the most common potato in the US, the russet that you can find at any grocer.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Making Potato Gnocchi</h3><p>To start, peel the potatoes, cut them into large cubes (I will cut a typical 70-count Idaho into 16 pieces), put them in cold salted water, and boil them until you can pierce them easily. Drain the potatoes well.</p><p>While the potatoes are hot, put them through a ricer (at the restaurant, we used a large manual food mill) as in the photo below. Using a large spoon, turn the steaming riced potatoes over a few times while they cool to the point that you can touch them. This will allow some of the steam (and hence the water) to evaporate further.</p><p>At this point, start heating the water that you're going to poach the gnocchi in. You want to cook them soon after you shape them. This time, I ladled the potatoes out of the boiling water and added more fresh water to the already hot water in order to conserve both water and time.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQAryct-FoydDjq20oSqWBvSpU5w80vYbRmbo7Gqd8p0fr16OWMHWXUAsDmMkYEGA_2OyEXgJxhUdsesFKUZoNJDHzf70F4N_s_mnFZRNLiTIXAMQyd8Uv4XMbO1gWpnvmBcTmetxo6HLTsRVGvIwxQf1Ksytywpd_MWc0wSUEvRBC3ElVwSjDjIa5EI7y/s3585/IMG_1614.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2689" data-original-width="3585" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQAryct-FoydDjq20oSqWBvSpU5w80vYbRmbo7Gqd8p0fr16OWMHWXUAsDmMkYEGA_2OyEXgJxhUdsesFKUZoNJDHzf70F4N_s_mnFZRNLiTIXAMQyd8Uv4XMbO1gWpnvmBcTmetxo6HLTsRVGvIwxQf1Ksytywpd_MWc0wSUEvRBC3ElVwSjDjIa5EI7y/w400-h300/IMG_1614.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ricing the Boiled Potatoes</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxz7QixON_YlFITLuCg7YwF7YGiUBI_Wi95tYfjvCQNs67XgFwcsQYR-iyXzJAjlnI37BMGHKfvwEgcZIRggKbtGeVwKNZeXUEp_bEoA6oL0wXDxVxXu4OelayOlhOo7VlL6qjhG_z3LFbevkGtkfSpOKmnAWpYNzWpXyke9jDGYzlbf6G53NFFeYrjMS/s1740/IMG_1630.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="1305" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCxz7QixON_YlFITLuCg7YwF7YGiUBI_Wi95tYfjvCQNs67XgFwcsQYR-iyXzJAjlnI37BMGHKfvwEgcZIRggKbtGeVwKNZeXUEp_bEoA6oL0wXDxVxXu4OelayOlhOo7VlL6qjhG_z3LFbevkGtkfSpOKmnAWpYNzWpXyke9jDGYzlbf6G53NFFeYrjMS/w300-h400/IMG_1630.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Ricer Has Taken a Beating over 35 Years</td></tr></tbody></table>Add a sprinkle of salt and some flour to the riced potatoes. I like to start with a large kitchen spoon of flour per large potato, knowing that it will probably take more later.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvHo2faVgtXk1W1PMO7XJvRVzPrFGejd3VYuZ3GYLYeIvjNytnC6a0b5-KzXNiRVnKIK4bfUsOvPoWUO9m6sJ0AHXg6TdgmqL6UBEEvpE361L8jXIoWV9CKOSzfkre9OFrya04KejVqVlc7gEemnJNS94B0ADnDWQc5fR5nXFPPXEcH08_hSLgYvRxN_t/s4032/IMG_1618.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxvHo2faVgtXk1W1PMO7XJvRVzPrFGejd3VYuZ3GYLYeIvjNytnC6a0b5-KzXNiRVnKIK4bfUsOvPoWUO9m6sJ0AHXg6TdgmqL6UBEEvpE361L8jXIoWV9CKOSzfkre9OFrya04KejVqVlc7gEemnJNS94B0ADnDWQc5fR5nXFPPXEcH08_hSLgYvRxN_t/w400-h300/IMG_1618.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Add Flour and Salt</td></tr></tbody></table>Mix the flour in well with your hands, kneading really gently. Taste for salt and adjust as necessary. You want a dough that just barely holds together. I ended up adding a fourth large kitchen spoon of flour to yield the dough that you see in the bowl below.<div><br /></div><div>This is the finesse step of making gnocchi. If you've never made them before, add flour sparingly, knead sparingly so as not to develop the gluten in the flour, and test cook a lone gnoccho or two to see if it holds together during poaching. If so, you're golden. If not, add a bit more flour and retest. Soon enough, your hands will be able to feel when the dough is correct.<div><br /></div><div>I have found that during the course of making gnocchi in a hot (restaurant) kitchen, the later batches of dough seems to take more flour compared to the earlier batches. It seems that as the dough sits, it can require more flour, so the goal is to shape them as quickly as possible. In any case, go easy on the flour and trust your feel.<br /><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4fpXxeNoRBN7_YvcAoJ2Ev1GUaxDTe1gSYcKyV-xyzKIBsUxhzo7laf_XGgO2huW8KwXeHthQOwNe6h4O4EQYCleeeGf1-Htm4d8J0dWi03c6AIv80iCKaFgfLdL7wOJn3YfwsBV9oAwTCKEtyZjA25JEJOieNGNTnzk9KCyUBLdX3bUJHeYGD8emi3V/s4032/IMG_1619.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4fpXxeNoRBN7_YvcAoJ2Ev1GUaxDTe1gSYcKyV-xyzKIBsUxhzo7laf_XGgO2huW8KwXeHthQOwNe6h4O4EQYCleeeGf1-Htm4d8J0dWi03c6AIv80iCKaFgfLdL7wOJn3YfwsBV9oAwTCKEtyZjA25JEJOieNGNTnzk9KCyUBLdX3bUJHeYGD8emi3V/w400-h300/IMG_1619.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnocchi Dough Ready to Roll</td></tr></tbody></table>To start shaping gnocchi, cut a long piece of dough. For example, I cut the disk above into four long slices. On a lightly floured board or counter, using flat palms, roll out the dough into a long rope as you did in kindergarten with clay. I like my gnocchi rope to be slightly less than an inch (call it 2cm) in diameter, but the size is up to you. Then with a scraper or bench knife, cut the gnocchi rope into pieces. I like mine just slightly longer than wide, as you can see Ann cutting below with a plastic scraper.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWK24rwnCuoM5i9A7gMBlFDv2pcd3Mq1-Shit7Iz0YnEuktmuf8gShj89taa2TLNQMPEISBXE_71rlq8ACq7wsiA8paw_8N66IWHFWnImA7BkteZpge4dpsyZgYfOSjWDMJWNUiQnu2_omVagNjPJ0cCvL1kvjNrtcdYYvnNhSNH8ftnp9HGvC9RfLEgRB/s3606/IMG_1623.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3606" data-original-width="2705" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWK24rwnCuoM5i9A7gMBlFDv2pcd3Mq1-Shit7Iz0YnEuktmuf8gShj89taa2TLNQMPEISBXE_71rlq8ACq7wsiA8paw_8N66IWHFWnImA7BkteZpge4dpsyZgYfOSjWDMJWNUiQnu2_omVagNjPJ0cCvL1kvjNrtcdYYvnNhSNH8ftnp9HGvC9RfLEgRB/w300-h400/IMG_1623.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting the Gnocchi Rope into Pieces</td></tr></tbody></table>Once they have cut the dumplings, a lot of people will roll the gnocchi on the back of the tines of a fork to give them little ridges that will help capture the sauce. I do that sometimes, but this time, I used a technique that I've seen a lot of <i>nonne </i>use: dimple each one with a thumb as you see in the photo below. These dimples are also pretty effective at capturing a bit of the sauce.</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkcitMgALNb46R4xqO5Vm6iwvOjIRzPEBbaAe_SSyU-7HNqcRWYJdl5fF4yZajtZDZhSHEaAJQsdCToL-rOzIpCBSl9j8nuP1ZWaxKcRp_piakLyZlx9mMEAm5temTh_R4dHRh0XiuGMpPb1U6sAWam94GDDTmWYjfh4rpzK775_uVBvUr3l4xVyzNXXIm/s4032/IMG_1621.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkcitMgALNb46R4xqO5Vm6iwvOjIRzPEBbaAe_SSyU-7HNqcRWYJdl5fF4yZajtZDZhSHEaAJQsdCToL-rOzIpCBSl9j8nuP1ZWaxKcRp_piakLyZlx9mMEAm5temTh_R4dHRh0XiuGMpPb1U6sAWam94GDDTmWYjfh4rpzK775_uVBvUr3l4xVyzNXXIm/w400-h300/IMG_1621.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnocchi, Dimpled with my Thumb<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTpHQXF3Atcv_ptb8PDPgvyLpE59sATDcLNO94Q-bHrLLWVIgMtnE8PC1ULxXWwhcvafq1ccdWrTZpWF612pdTfljHInq9cT9yEVOHKzzUHrmWHqeViW0PC0govu-HZCa2gF4qFCdsb7w0PxWgILYd9VbK4WAV8A4ImtWlPszygmXT0J5bBuQz0zBhs2Ks/s4032/IMG_1626.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTpHQXF3Atcv_ptb8PDPgvyLpE59sATDcLNO94Q-bHrLLWVIgMtnE8PC1ULxXWwhcvafq1ccdWrTZpWF612pdTfljHInq9cT9yEVOHKzzUHrmWHqeViW0PC0govu-HZCa2gF4qFCdsb7w0PxWgILYd9VbK4WAV8A4ImtWlPszygmXT0J5bBuQz0zBhs2Ks/w400-h300/IMG_1626.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Transfer the Gnocchi to a Lightly Oiled Sheet Tray</td></tr></tbody></table>Once your gnocchi are ready to poach, adjust your cooking water so that it is lightly simmering. Drop the gnocchi into the water batch by batch taking care not to overcrowd the pan. You will see that they drop immediately to the bottom. And when they're done, they will float to top of the water. Actually, I give the little dumplings 30 extra seconds once they float. The process is quick; these gnocchi floated in about two minutes, give or take.<br /><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5hFT-QSzsxFpGtsq3jUp1UeTY3Q1PmniUDQ731b9ce5j6WRNqz9SVMgZsVSsN5DOgW-BcRW1IywM7PT-BXu54KzpkrpxW0ALBfoIv6N9flSLPtKYkm4KjCgrn0oSNquAS6j4NIFOa6R2h7gXE3_5JIZByMY_9nOrtMkYbhCOn4Zr9nYgPMVPWvcnol02/s3388/IMG_1624.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2541" data-original-width="3388" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf5hFT-QSzsxFpGtsq3jUp1UeTY3Q1PmniUDQ731b9ce5j6WRNqz9SVMgZsVSsN5DOgW-BcRW1IywM7PT-BXu54KzpkrpxW0ALBfoIv6N9flSLPtKYkm4KjCgrn0oSNquAS6j4NIFOa6R2h7gXE3_5JIZByMY_9nOrtMkYbhCOn4Zr9nYgPMVPWvcnol02/w400-h300/IMG_1624.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnocchi Just Dropped in Simmering Water</td></tr></tbody></table></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDrkfF5QA-orHWJlW1ZI7pzki_HdccCP9vwgeJSjf4xzvzQ_vYxEtqxuqCTayX_nQHE4SlVUMAPakpiaEDmdnmQfFPsHuNuCqHXPt2hI6qLOP9-xtoB0_db7jWmlIDRozdorbSCGaTN3ZMINyYDUnm8p9nFlGPCBd80RenaHf44CA4gU2Uhrpc2wP0VgD/s3508/IMG_1625.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2631" data-original-width="3508" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaDrkfF5QA-orHWJlW1ZI7pzki_HdccCP9vwgeJSjf4xzvzQ_vYxEtqxuqCTayX_nQHE4SlVUMAPakpiaEDmdnmQfFPsHuNuCqHXPt2hI6qLOP9-xtoB0_db7jWmlIDRozdorbSCGaTN3ZMINyYDUnm8p9nFlGPCBd80RenaHf44CA4gU2Uhrpc2wP0VgD/w400-h300/IMG_1625.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gnocchi are Cooked When They Float</td></tr></tbody></table>Scoop the gnocchi onto a well-oiled sheet tray as each batch finishes. If you will be using them later in the day, let them cool completely and then cover them with film such that they do not dry out. If you are using them later, I recommend reheating them one of two ways. First, you can reheat them in butter (or olive oil) in a skillet on the stove top. You can even brown them if you like; this is definitely non-traditional in Italy, but it is damned good. Or second, you can mix them with their sauce in a shallow ovenproof dish and bake them in the oven for 15 minutes or so.</div><div><br /></div><div>But really what I recommend is to toss the hot gnocchi with their sauce and serve them immediately.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpiYpgLdGdZHn3sGM-JNvPP7hNxC3GqnxS-IQsTjPW_hneQ59EtiUGA5ehqulT9hMDjygo6uWbD8reT7NeAxU6l6G6qx3ooFunZNNT15EJoZ427RRo7UVtQFGL4J-Pv6NW7eoNb_LEBEU8E3SC22aC9Oxvh_JJQjxfu_NWicaOkCT1BpNnqD25Qd_mmrwS/s4032/IMG_1627.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpiYpgLdGdZHn3sGM-JNvPP7hNxC3GqnxS-IQsTjPW_hneQ59EtiUGA5ehqulT9hMDjygo6uWbD8reT7NeAxU6l6G6qx3ooFunZNNT15EJoZ427RRo7UVtQFGL4J-Pv6NW7eoNb_LEBEU8E3SC22aC9Oxvh_JJQjxfu_NWicaOkCT1BpNnqD25Qd_mmrwS/w400-h300/IMG_1627.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poached Gnocchi, Ready to Sauce or to Cool</td></tr></tbody></table>Even though it's probably been longer than a decade since I last made potato gnocchi, it was as easy as getting back on a bike and riding off down the street! This batch of gnocchi was killer and the perfect antidote to a cold, stormy, snowy day.<p></p></div></div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-23539569957830939472024-03-06T11:36:00.000-08:002024-03-06T11:36:05.193-08:00Crunchy Fish Tacos<p>I've recently revived an old technique for fish tacos and Annie loves the results. Here's how I turned a couple of Pacific Cod fillets into fish tacos.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghP9xLd2jUCfafCTXJdXJlLmAaVhcEPwbh3i4UDx7K8TfKtN-lqaQB1BkqOg01hev3W25xYM3semkxsDBEaK4HamSbUKs1lqTuCLvXcBcSlkrHyDCUpoIVYTwX9vFQEVTE13Bnp5B33LPRp2ExzlKX3Owj8Xul5bLHCj5SNQljy9FZoIeS8P3mifyQE09-/s3461/IMG_1612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2596" data-original-width="3461" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghP9xLd2jUCfafCTXJdXJlLmAaVhcEPwbh3i4UDx7K8TfKtN-lqaQB1BkqOg01hev3W25xYM3semkxsDBEaK4HamSbUKs1lqTuCLvXcBcSlkrHyDCUpoIVYTwX9vFQEVTE13Bnp5B33LPRp2ExzlKX3Owj8Xul5bLHCj5SNQljy9FZoIeS8P3mifyQE09-/w400-h300/IMG_1612.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pacific Cod Fish Tacos</td></tr></tbody></table>In recent years, I have been coating fish fillets for tacos with a <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2020/09/dry-rub-fish-tacos.html" target="_blank">spice rub</a> and roasting them in the oven. This is certainly a healthy way to eat fish, but many people will miss the crunchy crust of fried fish in their tacos. That got me asking myself how I can get a crispy crust on fish for tacos using a minimum of oil.<div><br /></div><div>Thinking back many decades to when I was just learning how to cook Chinese food (as if there is but a single Chinese cuisine, ha!), I remember using cornstarch not only to thicken sauces and soups, but as a way to coat meat for wok frying. And so I decided to use a bit of cornstarch on fish fillets and to fry them in as little oil as possible.</div><div><br /></div><div>I cut the cod fillets into pieces that will fit into my pan and then sprinkle both sides with seasonings (sometimes my fish rub, link above). For this particular batch of fish, rather than use a rub, I merely sprinkled both sides with salt, ground New Mexican chile, and a touch of granulated garlic. Then I put a thin coat of cornstarch on both sides.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBf3r3wk9ORbStfv9EkCJBgqPdtOHSRv8G5JmgnRKhiSR35hyphenhyphench1Jmh9JmgOTyqogOQkhP_AB6cFWl8_8ek9VrZSAAZi_ltyQIV8PUWHj2gPyG1xxONvmdr-0LTzvGZdcuRAQPv4XIldKoUHKBWG6vOfYwk44alrRu1yOQcNskTrb9JZpQsonj6f2Qg_GK/s2974/IMG_1611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2231" data-original-width="2974" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBf3r3wk9ORbStfv9EkCJBgqPdtOHSRv8G5JmgnRKhiSR35hyphenhyphench1Jmh9JmgOTyqogOQkhP_AB6cFWl8_8ek9VrZSAAZi_ltyQIV8PUWHj2gPyG1xxONvmdr-0LTzvGZdcuRAQPv4XIldKoUHKBWG6vOfYwk44alrRu1yOQcNskTrb9JZpQsonj6f2Qg_GK/w400-h300/IMG_1611.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pan-Searing Pacific Cod Using Almost No Oil</td></tr></tbody></table>We eat a lot of tacos at our house because they are quick, tasty, and who doesn't love finger food? One way that I make them quick to prepare is by keeping a lot of garnishes on hand in the refrigerator on a regular basis. These include pickled jalapeños, salsa verde, romaine bottoms, and a squeeze bottle of thinned chipotle sour cream. By planning ahead, tacos take less than ten minutes to bring to the table, just what I want on a busy day or on a day when I don't have the energy or desire to cook an involved meal.<div><br /><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUFpt8q4TrjF4oLadCKIskf5NVVP1LFp7U2McFt56MPthSacYmdkQmqtsnIE46vEjgmAXzFTAxSwSIH744rgDn4udvvE_mjgq7uLOSIn8IDMBrTxT13jjbkz0xIIdtPLpuWdCxBjikPc9ENpjKI7wDCzGeaimtPFw9sWoTOcM4V2OA5LkDadmRDg3wS0b/s4032/IMG_1610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAUFpt8q4TrjF4oLadCKIskf5NVVP1LFp7U2McFt56MPthSacYmdkQmqtsnIE46vEjgmAXzFTAxSwSIH744rgDn4udvvE_mjgq7uLOSIn8IDMBrTxT13jjbkz0xIIdtPLpuWdCxBjikPc9ENpjKI7wDCzGeaimtPFw9sWoTOcM4V2OA5LkDadmRDg3wS0b/w400-h300/IMG_1610.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish Taco Toppings: (L-R) Pickled Jalapenos, Tomatoes,<br />Salsa Verde, Cilantro, Chipotle Sour Cream, and Romaine</td></tr></tbody></table>I've published the <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2022/03/recipe-roasted-potatoes-and-asparagus.html" target="_blank">recipe for salsa verde before</a>, but it's just a bunch of cilantro, a large can of drained tomatillos, a serrano chile, two cloves of garlic, and a pinch of salt, all blended. We use romaine lettuce on our lunch sandwiches and I always keep the bottoms of the bunches in a bag in the fridge. When it's time for tacos, I slice the bottoms thinly for a crunchy garnish. Chipotle sour cream is merely sour cream, water, salt, and chipotle adobo.</div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-14937425691799728062024-03-01T12:32:00.000-08:002024-03-06T12:02:27.372-08:00February Celebration: The Luckiest Beans on Earth<h3 style="text-align: left;">Let's Celebrate!</h3><p>Mid-February has become a time to celebrate at our house. Valentine's Day, my birthday, and our anniversary of having moved to Bend, this year our second so-called Bendiversary, all fall within a week of each other. Accordingly, we aim to have a small party each February to mark these events. What better to do in this bitter cold season than have a party?</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2pMz_BqpncJSZOXlimeNKEUjZXGGd-IQnPvGv0pRGayHDmCxOHqrEjGBlUaT9SuEzzC5thd4L3fk2IrErjh3eMvxkB1nT90jGIauy0lJEVcrvVplV8VtkxKIPPxw4VIAr7ZxBtqSUP0nQljNCGAZ7fyQRZnwi95MWhcNuQl6GB_WnZvrKd4zw12vqh5X/s4032/IMG_1593.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj2pMz_BqpncJSZOXlimeNKEUjZXGGd-IQnPvGv0pRGayHDmCxOHqrEjGBlUaT9SuEzzC5thd4L3fk2IrErjh3eMvxkB1nT90jGIauy0lJEVcrvVplV8VtkxKIPPxw4VIAr7ZxBtqSUP0nQljNCGAZ7fyQRZnwi95MWhcNuQl6GB_WnZvrKd4zw12vqh5X/w400-h300/IMG_1593.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another February Cassoulet in the Books</td></tr></tbody></table>For this year's celebration, Ann asked me to make a cassoulet. If you have never had cassoulet, it is a bean and meat stew with four components: beans, meat, stock, and a mixture of diced aromatic vegetables called mirepoix. If you look back to all my cassoulet posts, I tend to make them in February at the worst of the cold season for good reason. Cassoulet is arguably the greatest cold weather comfort food in the world. Thank you France for this wonderful celebratory concoction!<div><br /></div><div><div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Prepping for Cassoulet</h3><p>For the cassoulet that I would serve on Saturday night, I started the prep work early Friday morning, right after shoveling the overnight accumulation of snow, a pretty typical chore on a February morning. The day-before prep for cassoulet is pretty limited: soaking the beans overnight and making some delicious pork stock in which to cook the beans.</p><p>The first step in making stock is to roast your bones. For pork stock, I use pork neck bones that are both inexpensive and contain delicious meat. I am guessing that if they are readily available here in Central Oregon, you can find them just about anywhere. The trick with roasting bones is time. Put them on a lightly oiled sheet tray in the oven and roast them until they are golden brown on all sides, turning them as necessary. It's not a process that you can or should rush. Cassoulet is only as good as the stock that you cook the beans in.</p><p>Having turned the roasting pork neck bones on the sheet tray and put them back in the oven to continue browning and getting sexier and sexier, I was standing at my cutting board, my nose reveling in the porky goodness of the aroma emanating from the direction of the oven. I remarked to Ann, ensconced on the sofa by the fire and nose down in her phone, "How do think these beans are going to feel, being slowly cooked in all that porky goodness?" And she replied, "They're going to be the luckiest beans on earth!"</p><p>While the bones were roasting, I did some pre-prep on the vegetables for the mirepoix: onions, carrots, leeks, and celery. While I would dice the mirepoix vegetables on Saturday morning, I wanted the vegetable scraps today for flavoring the stock. To that end, I peeled the onion, trimmed the ends of the carrots, peeled off the tough outer leek leaves, and trimmed the leafy ends of the celery. Be sure to wash the leek leaves well; they can accumulate a lot of dirt, or worse, sand.</p><p>After the pork neck bones browned, I put them in a stock pot with all the peels, ends, and scraps of the mirepoix vegetables. Filled with water, the stock pot simmered gently for several hours before I separated the solids from the stock. The stock went into the refrigerator to congeal so that I could remove the fat from the top. After the solids cooled, I picked all the neck meat from the bones to put into the cassoulet on Saturday.</p><p>Last thing before going to bed Friday night, I put two pounds of beans in a bowl and covered them with a lot of salted water to soak overnight. I had been wrestling with the choice of beans for a few weeks. Two weeks prior, I put an order in to Rancho Gordo for a big box of beans including my two potential candidates for the cassoulet: Tarbais and Steuben Yellow Eye beans.</p><p>I have made many cassoulets in my life, about half with the traditional bean from from the Tarbes area in the far southwest of France up against the Pyrenees, the Tarbais bean; and about half with a traditional American bean called the Steuben Yellow Eye, purported to be the original bean in Boston baked beans. Heretofore, I have always slightly preferred the yellow-eyed beans.</p><p>Both beans are loved because while holding their shape, they become ultra creamy inside, exactly what you want for cassoulet, which is nothing if not a super peasant dish of pork and beans. After waffling for days on the choice, I decided to go with the original beans, the Tarbais. I was not disappointed; the resulting cassoulet could not have been better. And I still have Steubens to craft into some other delicacy!</p><h3>Cassoulet Assembly</h3><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxPQJI_JjGqTayaxqON0_jQoj_EUU4l6QqeZ9KWGMYB-83fTtoOXB0gKtVCr6VgmbDlGu5hYmuq6lICcK3NJruF6e-aXtsAHzIdG0DUUuBWKTrObsXfOQ01OhQAS3SymlMY_Drw8rZ3PI-BQiTPt0tROs3yI61GM2obMfrMibgaYxzG6-f1rFkgb87TDVw/s3654/IMG_1586.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3654" data-original-width="2741" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxPQJI_JjGqTayaxqON0_jQoj_EUU4l6QqeZ9KWGMYB-83fTtoOXB0gKtVCr6VgmbDlGu5hYmuq6lICcK3NJruF6e-aXtsAHzIdG0DUUuBWKTrObsXfOQ01OhQAS3SymlMY_Drw8rZ3PI-BQiTPt0tROs3yI61GM2obMfrMibgaYxzG6-f1rFkgb87TDVw/w300-h400/IMG_1586.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Would Anyone Manage to Get Here for Dinner?</td></tr></tbody></table>Overnight Friday into Saturday morning saw a considerable amount of additional new snow and the forecast had it snowing all day. Both of the couples we invited live up big hills that the snow could make impassable, so during the day on Saturday we weren't sure if our party would come off or if we would be eating cassoulet by ourselves. Regardless of the weather, cassoulet is pretty much of an all-day affair and I needed to get started on it. After shoveling snow again, naturally.</div><div><br /></div><div><div><div>The first item of business was to get the beans par-cooking. I drained them and placed them in a stock pot with fresh water and a bouquet garni of fresh rosemary, fresh thyme, and fresh sage. These herbs would impart a slight flavor to the beans while making the kitchen smell amazing for the 90 minutes in which the beans par-cooked.<div><br /></div><div>In my past restaurant days, we had all kinds of meat garnishes for the cassoulet, especially after we butchered one of the hogs that we had a local farmer raise for us. In addition to pig's feet for the stock, we had a lot of trimmings from which I would make traditional garlic sausages. And we would cure, roast, and confit the hog bellies which aged under their bath of congealed duck fat in the walk-in next to vast containers of confited Moulard duck legs. In short, our walk-in contained every kind of meat garnish a cassoulet cook could want.</div><div><br /></div><div>But now post-restaurant at home in a fairly small city a half a day's drive from anywhere, meats are limited to what I can get at the grocery store, especially because the farmers markets are inoperative at the height of winter; you know, snow and all. Having little alternative, I just decided to go with what I could scrounge at the store. I ended up buying a large tray of chicken thighs and a small tray of breakfast sausage links to use along with all the neck meat that I picked from the stock bones.</div><div><br /></div><div>While the beans were par-cooking, I browned the chicken and sausages in fat I had saved in the refrigerator from my last couple of batches of chicken confit. And while the meats were browning, I diced all the vegetables I pre-prepped yesterday into mirepoix. This finely diced mix of carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, I cooked in the same pan in which I browned the meats, scraping hard to get all the brown meat bits into the vegetables.</div><div><br /></div><div>While the mirepoix was cooking, I minced and added an entire head of garlic to give a nice garlicky background note to the cassoulet. The reason for so much garlic is because I would typically have made the dish with a garlic sausage instead of the mild breakfast sausage that I used for this cassoulet.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once the beans were par-cooked, tender but still a bit crunchy, I drained and mixed them with the mirepoix and then seasoned them to taste with salt. No longer working in the restaurant, I do not have a pan big enough to accommodate this amount of beans and meat, so I decided to use two pans. I put a quarter of the beans in each of the two pans and topped them with 4-5 bay leaves each. Then I split the pork neck meat, chicken thighs, and sausages between the two pans and covered them with the remaining beans.</div><div><br /></div><div>At this point, I should mention the one cheffy thing about this cassoulet. From time to time, <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2022/05/chicken-confit.html" target="_blank">I make chicken confit</a>, that is, chicken cured overnight in a salt and herb mix, then rinsed and slowly poached while submerged under olive oil. Then this chicken gets refrigerated submerged under the fat, which congeals and protects it from spoilage.</div><div><br /></div><div>After the chicken is all consumed, I melt the remaining fat and pour it into a container to keep in the refrigerator where the fat congeals on top of any juices from the chicken. I reuse the fat for the next batch of confit, but the intensely flavored juices go into a soup or stew. For this cassoulet, I browned the meats and cooked the mirepoix in some of this confit fat and I added the congealed juices (a half cup) to the cassoulet along with the pork neck stock.</div><div><br /></div><div>After removing the layer of fat from the stock that I made on Friday, I warmed it briefly to liquefy it. Into each casserole, I poured enough stock to cover the beans by a good centimeter and put them in a slow (300F) oven to start the process of becoming insanely good. I checked the beans periodically to make sure they had enough liquid. Each time a crust would form on top of the beans, I would mash it back down into the stock, topping off the stock if necessary.</div><div><br /></div><div>This process of crusting and breaking the crust and re-crusting over hours is essential to cassoulet. I want to say that the beans cooked slowly for about seven hours and I probably broke the crust four to five times during my forays from the fireside into the kitchen.</div><div><br /></div><div>While this is a good description of the process of making a cassoulet, a more exact recipe follows just below.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEing_NqkCY5CFXma-5hVd5eRhs_wiC1LQDh5cBJTc7ZtEtl_aDaBFZdiv4-nOLdIdNVdT4wIMSrvjX5hV0pQJBIWTwfgWZwZXQNrb7dNa8VhsFXXvEECeT6rAOxLgzRjwedZLh68eVvjR0JHcSCmCVkaXCTFddbMepCWf0_bBdtKlLDy9E854Ahj5PIZzVF/s3454/IMG_1590.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2591" data-original-width="3454" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEing_NqkCY5CFXma-5hVd5eRhs_wiC1LQDh5cBJTc7ZtEtl_aDaBFZdiv4-nOLdIdNVdT4wIMSrvjX5hV0pQJBIWTwfgWZwZXQNrb7dNa8VhsFXXvEECeT6rAOxLgzRjwedZLh68eVvjR0JHcSCmCVkaXCTFddbMepCWf0_bBdtKlLDy9E854Ahj5PIZzVF/w400-h300/IMG_1590.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cassoulet in the Oven<br />Essential to Let it Crust and Re-crust over Several Hours</td></tr></tbody></table><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBfv4-WWmq3Qg0rns2yC9A_57abE-ijsUgnaCymb-UkJD384s-RT-iZD64oiv5ZELkP98I1R9ygfygGT3LtW3VPPqDpRYJzQNVPgNaViOuXyDCajDwZ-khd8OkgGDRy1udj5ZXMcnOUfJNXoe_tI-s-4c_avrzQP7x6w_IZg4CZE3Jfzxn-nwy7FK43JHG/s4032/IMG_1592.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBfv4-WWmq3Qg0rns2yC9A_57abE-ijsUgnaCymb-UkJD384s-RT-iZD64oiv5ZELkP98I1R9ygfygGT3LtW3VPPqDpRYJzQNVPgNaViOuXyDCajDwZ-khd8OkgGDRy1udj5ZXMcnOUfJNXoe_tI-s-4c_avrzQP7x6w_IZg4CZE3Jfzxn-nwy7FK43JHG/w400-h300/IMG_1592.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cassoulet Cooling after Seven Hours in Oven<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: left;">February Cassoulet Recipe</h3><div><br /></div><div>This is a cassoulet, beans aside, that you can make from stock items at the grocery store. In fact, despite the lack of duck confit and other great ingredients, the is the single best cassoulet I have ever made. In other words, don't let lack of ingredients deter you from making a cassoulet. As for the beans, great beans are easily available via mail-order from Rancho Gordo (note that they call them Cassoulet Beans, rather than the Tarbais beans that they are).</div></div><div><br />This recipe is based on two pounds or a kilo of beans, enough to feed 8-10 hungry people. You'll want to attack a cassoulet over two days, the first given to making the stock and soaking the beans, and the second to cooking the cassoulet itself.</div><div><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Pork Stock</h4><div><br /></div><div>This stock is made from inexpensive pork neck bones plus the trimmings from all the vegetables that you will use in the cassoulet. If you have a choice, try to select the meatier bones; the meat will go into the cassoulet. This recipe makes a good gallon/4 quarts/4 liters of stock, enough for two pounds or a kilogram of beans.</div><div><br /></div></div></div></div></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><div><div><div><div>oil to coat a sheet tray</div></div></div></div></div></blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><div style="text-align: left;">5 pounds pork neck bones</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">5 quarts/liters water</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">tough outer leaves from one large leek, washed well</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">ends and trimmings from 3 medium carrots</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">peel of one medium onion</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">hearts and leafy ends of one bunch celery</div></div></blockquote><div><div><br /></div><div>Coat a sheet tray with oil and spread the bones out in a single layer on the tray, then place in a moderate to hot oven. Roast until the upper surface is golden brown then rotate the bones to brown another surface. Continue in this fashion until the bones are brown on all sides.</div><div><br /></div><div>Remove the bones from the sheet tray to a stock pot. Pour enough water onto the hot sheet tray to cover it. With a scraper or spatula, deglaze all the brown bits from the bottom of the sheet tray and pour into the stock pot. Repeat as necessary to get all the brown bits into the stock pot.</div><div><br /></div><div>Add the remaining water and vegetables to the stock pot and bring to a simmer for a minimum of two hours. I cooked mine for four hours. At the restaurant, we kept stock pots going all the time.</div><div><br /></div><div>Strain the solids from the stock. When the stock cools, refrigerate it overnight so that any fat in the stock congeals and can be removed easily from the top of the stock. When the solids cool, pick all the meat from the bones and save for the cassoulet.</div><div><br /> <div><h4 style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Cassoulet</h4></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This makes a large quantity of beans, enough to feed 8-10 people. Make sure that you have a deep pan or casserole large enough to hold the beans and all the meats. Or use two, as I did. No longer do I work in a restaurant where we had a braiser (called by its French name <i>rondeau</i>) large enough to hold 5kg of beans! When browning the meats, take your time and do it correctly. This is a key step in building flavor.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2 pounds/1 kilogram of Tarbais or other white beans, soaked overnight in salted water</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">bouquet garni of 1 large sprig each of fresh sage, fresh thyme, and fresh rosemary</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1/2 cup oil/lard/duck fat for browning meats</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">10 chicken thighs, bone-in and skin-on, 5-6 pounds</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 12-ounce tray breakfast sausages</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">reserved pork neck meat from stock recipe above</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 large leek, in small dice</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">3 medium carrots, in small dice</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">2 large stalks celery, in small dice</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 medium yellow onion, in small dice</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 head of garlic, minced</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">10 bay leaves</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">salt to taste</div></div></div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">1 gallon/4 liters pork stock from recipe above</div></div></div></blockquote><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Drain the beans and cook them in fresh water with the bouquet garni (the fresh herbs, tied together with a string) until tender, but not cooked all the way through. This will take about 90 minutes give or take.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">While the beans are cooking, brown the chicken and the sausage thoroughly on all sides. Remove the meats to a platter while you cook the vegetables.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When the meats are browned, in the same pan, add the vegetables and garlic and cook gently until the vegetables are soft and the onions are translucent. Scrape the bottom well to incorporate all the brown bits from the meats into the vegetables.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When the beans are cooked, drain them and mix them with the cooked mirepoix. Season to taste with salt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Place half the beans in the bottom of your casserole (or a quarter of the beans, if you are using two pans like me).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Give the beans a sprinkle of salt (there's no salt in the chicken, pork neck meat, or stock) and spread the bay leaves on top of the beans.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Next spread the meats over the beans and then top everything with the remaining beans and a final sprinkle of salt.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pour the defatted, melted stock over the beans to cover by a centimeter or so.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Place the cassoulet uncovered in a slow oven (say 300F) and let it cook slowly. Mine was in the oven for seven hours, so you should get it cooking in the morning to eat at dinner time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Keep an eye on the cassoulet from time to time. Cassoulet needs to crust, have the crust mixed back into the broth, and re-crust several times. Keep an eye on the stock level and add more as needed. I believe that I broke my crust four times during seven hours and added a bit more stock twice.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">The Rest of Our Celebratory Dinner</h3></div><div><br /></div><div>Cassoulet in the oven, my thoughts turned to an appetizer, something easy and delicious for a cold winter day. We just recently got an order of pantry items in from Amazon (here in Central Oregon, access to less common grocery items is extremely limited), including a tin of fennel pollen, a couple liters of Sherry vinegar, and a couple jars of Calabrian chile paste. Yes, Virginia, these are stock items in a retired chef's pantry and spice drawer.<div><br /></div><div>With these items in mind, I started building the menu. For the Calabrian chiles, Ann had been talking about spicy honey for days and I spent some time musing on what would taste really good with that sweet and spicy sauce. In fairly short order, I came up with using the sauce on some fennel-spiced meatballs that our guests could graze on before dinner. Who doesn't like a good meatball?</div><div><br /></div><div>I wanted to keep the meatballs fairly plain to let the Calabrian chile honey be the star of the show, but I did want to incorporate the fennel pollen that had just arrived at the house. The seasoning of the meatballs, made from ground pork, is simple: salt, dried basil, fennel pollen, garlic, and red wine. I mixed this all up in the afternoon and fried a quick test piece to check the seasoning. After adjusting the seasoning to our liking, into the refrigerator went the meatball mix to sit and infuse the seasoning throughout the meat.</div><div><br /></div><div>After washing up from the meatballs, I made a quick salad dressing for the pound of baby arugula that I had brought home for the store, which is where the Sherry vinegar comes in. I started with one part of sherry vinegar and two parts oil (a splash of French hazelnut oil and the rest extra virgin olive oil) and tweaked it to taste with salt and agave nectar. When I was happy with the taste and acid balance of the dressing, I added a finely minced shallot to the dressing and left it on the counter to be mixed with arugula and thin slivers of pecorino at dinner time.</div><div><br /></div><div>About a half an hour before our guests were to arrive (still no weather cancellations at this point!), Ann and I rolled the 2-1/2 pounds of meatball mix into small 1" (2.5cm) balls. For ease of cooking, I decided to bake them rather than fry or braise them. The meatballs went in the bottom of the oven under the still cooking cassoulet, which I topped with a bit more stock.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxp7qPODHFJJoNNbxj9ResnkPVCi9pYFh04b-W5oFgQywta2SX_qCwfk6XgWweoBlODkUzg5-xx3v0putSsXl9P5rJA1UOqPnSGC_G5xvY-zaSFhVoAAo6No5e-J_dWI8Hybpswusr3crnh5aE_vTr5Zs66msJW8kauxH7-Q8pklxFlboUq-K621YmwSca/s4032/IMG_1587.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxp7qPODHFJJoNNbxj9ResnkPVCi9pYFh04b-W5oFgQywta2SX_qCwfk6XgWweoBlODkUzg5-xx3v0putSsXl9P5rJA1UOqPnSGC_G5xvY-zaSFhVoAAo6No5e-J_dWI8Hybpswusr3crnh5aE_vTr5Zs66msJW8kauxH7-Q8pklxFlboUq-K621YmwSca/w400-h300/IMG_1587.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fennel Pollen Meatballs Ready to Bake</td></tr></tbody></table><div>When the meatballs came out of the oven 20 minutes later, I sprinkled them with flaky salt and more fennel pollen, then transferred them to a bowl for serving while Ann made final tweaks to the table, glassware, and so forth. I decided to serve the Calabrian chile honey on the side in case one or more of our guests was not a fan.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8W1HTKI-gPzavE1Pt82Qkyk-P-b3-ROob1FuSy5pDYE4bNtGUNuIt5JzYyQu272PwcjTQzu1JG36q1x4xnad3V7JV6-K4KrPrsU9_wuOlSIgjr7k3tiQbLq-INoksEo0zs6nZIQ2rJwjt8Ailhp8mQhEbyAoc8_6AuoOtcF_Jz2YykNxHHA6HRGbaWhI_/s3803/IMG_1596.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2852" data-original-width="3803" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8W1HTKI-gPzavE1Pt82Qkyk-P-b3-ROob1FuSy5pDYE4bNtGUNuIt5JzYyQu272PwcjTQzu1JG36q1x4xnad3V7JV6-K4KrPrsU9_wuOlSIgjr7k3tiQbLq-INoksEo0zs6nZIQ2rJwjt8Ailhp8mQhEbyAoc8_6AuoOtcF_Jz2YykNxHHA6HRGbaWhI_/w400-h300/IMG_1596.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fennel Pollen Meatballs, Calabrian Chile Honey</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div>Just about the time appointed time for our guests to arrive (and knowing full well that the trip to our house would be slow on account of the still pouring snow), Ann cracked a bottle of wine for us to start pre-gaming it . While she was doing this, I went outside to remove the 2.5 inches of snow that had fallen in the the last hour from the sidewalk and to try to clear some space at the curb so that car doors could open without getting stuck in snow mounds.</div><div><br /></div><div><h3>Cassoulet Wine Pairings </h3><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">You've heard the saying, "What grows together, goes together"? It's a philosophy that I have always ascribed to in wine pairings. In other words, a good rule of thumb in wine pairing would be to go with the wine from the area from which the dish originates (when possible).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Living in Oregon, our wine coolers are stuffed with our local wine (Pinot Noir) and are sadly bereft of wines from Southwestern France where cassoulet originates. Unfortunately, these relatively obscure French wines are hard enough to source in major metropolitan areas and pretty much impossible to find out here in the boonies. But still, while Ann was out at her exercise class in the morning, I asked her if she would go by the store near her studio and pick up some French wine for dinner.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Cassoulet is a hearty dish that can pair with a wide variety of reds, anywhere from a light Gamay to a heavy Cabernet. My preference is to match the weight of the dish and the wine, opting for heavier rather than lighter wines. For heavier wines, I really like Cahors (Malbec) or Madiran (Tannat), both sturdy reds, with cassoulet.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Knowing the likelihood of finding such a wine was about nil, plan B was to have Ann grab some southern Rhônes, which are what we call GSMs, being made from any combination of the grapes Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. She came home with three wines, a Châteauneuf du Pape, a Lirac, and a Gigondas. All were delicious. Alternatively, we could have opened some of our GSMs from Walla Walla and the Rocks District from just north of us along the Columbia River.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNwkh1oFAe_BaULAwXNP05dycrN3dRz5yaURmwHJ4TyFWOkyWowBXiAv8gkeogXQ319puPffnWn0jvBSv10yt5FBTxBhEtIJxfsxkyToaMv7bYeRJmeDkvKzXA18FJoIUS2PsuWIT0lsR_8GkkbkP60uv0dvqGzBVqdbW-eY1v2x89gaSRegRrRWZ6C5X0/s3934/IMG_1594.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2950" data-original-width="3934" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNwkh1oFAe_BaULAwXNP05dycrN3dRz5yaURmwHJ4TyFWOkyWowBXiAv8gkeogXQ319puPffnWn0jvBSv10yt5FBTxBhEtIJxfsxkyToaMv7bYeRJmeDkvKzXA18FJoIUS2PsuWIT0lsR_8GkkbkP60uv0dvqGzBVqdbW-eY1v2x89gaSRegRrRWZ6C5X0/w400-h300/IMG_1594.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three Southern Rhône Reds for Dinner</td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Celebrating February</h3><div><br /></div><div><div><div>I am afraid that I was so intent on our guests that I forgot to take pictures. Rob and Dyce, sorry! What few I did manage are below.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7U6qEWZguCYOKqrXGw98MaXt63v2dpGW4pITIGPC5RkiKnrrpTw7AouvZa6YKtjBv_ZloeqBvQbEhVYLxiScubw9GSEE2u_ei-QKzAfJzS_oFL4nI10yLHXSLx4YMUWCo5qh6C74yGf3nBtoLP921r6XTi8_9g1JnVk9aR2zZn6CVnHwIAtzjLsbPd8mZ/s3395/IMG_1598.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3395" data-original-width="2546" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7U6qEWZguCYOKqrXGw98MaXt63v2dpGW4pITIGPC5RkiKnrrpTw7AouvZa6YKtjBv_ZloeqBvQbEhVYLxiScubw9GSEE2u_ei-QKzAfJzS_oFL4nI10yLHXSLx4YMUWCo5qh6C74yGf3nBtoLP921r6XTi8_9g1JnVk9aR2zZn6CVnHwIAtzjLsbPd8mZ/w300-h400/IMG_1598.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pre-Gaming it in Front of the Fire</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoqTSxS02ppb5GVHTqAeHBLBZMgP8qSm1ONevn1hLJCbRlKbhagOqx_a3aF_ByB5yemm5JjVaZMy47BQucaCwYXtpeXXZU5sWzQvfeAnR4Q4n9BD57T9Kmj9nJIL6Y2q-wyxg6qtkgssRn7qndj4bRf-0ly2VtwohWHEuCsvomnmDoPuHWxkiEf7ohzuu/s4032/IMG_1600.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoqTSxS02ppb5GVHTqAeHBLBZMgP8qSm1ONevn1hLJCbRlKbhagOqx_a3aF_ByB5yemm5JjVaZMy47BQucaCwYXtpeXXZU5sWzQvfeAnR4Q4n9BD57T9Kmj9nJIL6Y2q-wyxg6qtkgssRn7qndj4bRf-0ly2VtwohWHEuCsvomnmDoPuHWxkiEf7ohzuu/w400-h300/IMG_1600.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ann's Simple Tablescape<br />with Valentine's Gift Boxes for Guests</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv0e61H_ZeqcJSFtN3Tlsl3x7FpHq3UksPKLncKQAkIkrP6mPLgSa_YDaICBEbGV3n4BKE15Aq2ffedSlYSA1RvLu-dVeJ3T_O_hxMmquv9pIBFBVURWcqbMBOtvf1lh37LmTPfNyVpW5bs_vdVUHaXAZxL7MZpGNVNpzzRiYpM2CfeoxdSI6CP_LKLXOl/s3355/IMG_1603.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3355" data-original-width="2516" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv0e61H_ZeqcJSFtN3Tlsl3x7FpHq3UksPKLncKQAkIkrP6mPLgSa_YDaICBEbGV3n4BKE15Aq2ffedSlYSA1RvLu-dVeJ3T_O_hxMmquv9pIBFBVURWcqbMBOtvf1lh37LmTPfNyVpW5bs_vdVUHaXAZxL7MZpGNVNpzzRiYpM2CfeoxdSI6CP_LKLXOl/w300-h400/IMG_1603.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andreas and Michelle<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaxQOX0df7yonqfybagRZdSxOKq7NYhQc52SvTxPWZqdmV9ooRURRSbzwd016pAmGRN8BPNXlkPWqCmdUxyNFrT7NO83CMSGID9NUAVWK7qtdBlbQM-YKjNTcAFqzOH6QHJuZKzral0ZHw6XVzqQ2I2B2Mhm11q_T2Lv5NWDjef2DEuWAueHNBu26wTAJx/s3912/IMG_1604.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2934" data-original-width="3912" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaxQOX0df7yonqfybagRZdSxOKq7NYhQc52SvTxPWZqdmV9ooRURRSbzwd016pAmGRN8BPNXlkPWqCmdUxyNFrT7NO83CMSGID9NUAVWK7qtdBlbQM-YKjNTcAFqzOH6QHJuZKzral0ZHw6XVzqQ2I2B2Mhm11q_T2Lv5NWDjef2DEuWAueHNBu26wTAJx/w400-h300/IMG_1604.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cassoulet and Arugula Salad</td></tr></tbody></table><div>Another cassoulet, my best ever, is in the books. I'm so thankful to have great friends with whom to share it.</div></div></div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-31786395161733657522024-02-19T11:44:00.000-08:002024-02-22T10:40:28.782-08:00Super Bowl Dip<p>After many years of cord cutting, we're finally able to watch the Super Bowl at home for the first time in ages. When we realized this, of course, we had to have some food to go along with the game. Pretty much immediately, I thought of the quasi-traditional 7-layer dip that so many people serve. And I asked myself, "How can it make it tastier and more fun?"</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzKagl2y9hFhgMtVVp18qbRed4dtI4Jo4kZ7sXXtK5ZtS5dfat3w2RiKhXyQX2wZ5dpUmDEtBph7mP4sg3C-BZOuRFkulg3L1TidmGUvKUQrRsH00R0Q8K_Uzd9BNoErKclHM-ZqYF2Lerr2elNGrKSDz5gm_1Y8OiRXHCHeDmfm-1tjMahHfBP1-fH7Z/s2843/IMG_1582.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2132" data-original-width="2843" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtzKagl2y9hFhgMtVVp18qbRed4dtI4Jo4kZ7sXXtK5ZtS5dfat3w2RiKhXyQX2wZ5dpUmDEtBph7mP4sg3C-BZOuRFkulg3L1TidmGUvKUQrRsH00R0Q8K_Uzd9BNoErKclHM-ZqYF2Lerr2elNGrKSDz5gm_1Y8OiRXHCHeDmfm-1tjMahHfBP1-fH7Z/w400-h300/IMG_1582.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to Watch the Super Bowl</td></tr></tbody></table>I spent a little time thinking about what might comprise the layers in the dip and started making a list of things that individually would be really good with nacho chips.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPy5lEMrr9maYO2I3IUme4egZwHtM9rgiTtSTdRGFWDBj5uUtOFG-gtm2rotq59hLNGREfKE2f9pfkRB2CelQ5H0veQGuhlMTvnzdAvUyWGnkBsHTWNI5NKIYN-5Sriuld_4xJWkI_0ah8xapI3DGCRWkjRV2WYpJrO3f0K5elk8LPQKoRJG4YXY5KkzRY/s2984/IMG_1581.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2984" data-original-width="2238" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPy5lEMrr9maYO2I3IUme4egZwHtM9rgiTtSTdRGFWDBj5uUtOFG-gtm2rotq59hLNGREfKE2f9pfkRB2CelQ5H0veQGuhlMTvnzdAvUyWGnkBsHTWNI5NKIYN-5Sriuld_4xJWkI_0ah8xapI3DGCRWkjRV2WYpJrO3f0K5elk8LPQKoRJG4YXY5KkzRY/w300-h400/IMG_1581.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>You can see what I came up with from bottom to top in the photo above:</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Chipotle-Garlic-Bacon Frijoles Refritos</b>. I debated the longest time about what kind of beans to use for the refritos, finally settling on pintos rather than either black beans or mayocobas. Traditionally, beans are refried in lard which I don't have on hand. Rather, I fried up a few slices of bacon and put the cooked pintos, a couple finely chopped chipotles, and rather a large amount of minced garlic into the bacon grease. After I mashed the beans to smooth and cooked them until they separated from the edge of the pan, I chopped the bacon and added it to the beans before seasoning them.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Salsa Fresca</b>. My fresh salsa is easy to make and delicious, consisting of finely chopped grape tomatoes (in lieu of large tomatoes in the late summer), white onion, cilantro, a finely minced jalapeño, with lime juice and salt to taste.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Tinga de Pollo</b>. I haven't made this delightful taco filling in a few months and I don't know why as it couldn't be simpler. To prepare it, I place slabs of onion in the bottom of a roasting pan, then layer on a bunch of chicken thighs lightly dusted with a spice mix of New Mexican ground chile, cumin, granulated garlic, salt, and Mexican oregano. The thighs roast until they are done and ready to come off the bone. After they cool, I pick the meat off the bones and add it to half the onion slabs that I have roughly chopped. The other half of the onions goes into the blender with a couple of <i>chipotles en adobo</i> and a small can of tomatoes. After I blitz the sauce, I pour it over the chicken and onion mixture and cook it down until most of the liquid is evaporated to make a delicious taco filling.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Queso Fundido</b>. Who doesn't like a gooey queso with chips? There are all kinds of ways to make queso fundido (melted cheese) but honestly, the easiest is just to throw some Velveeta and a little milk into the microwave. I added pickled jalapenos and chopped pickled nopalitos to the queso to give it a bit of zing.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Chorizo</b>. Mexican chorizo may be my favorite taco filling, especially when mixed with eggs. No eggs in this batch of chorizo, however, that I made from pork shoulder, ground Chimayo chile, cumin, garlic, salt, Mexican oregano, and a touch of red wine vinegar for acidity.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Guacamole</b>. It wouldn't be a Super Bowl dip at all without guacamole. The avocados are tiny now and hard as bricks, so I bought a bunch of them and kept them on the counter for a week to ripen. I made the simplest guacamole ever from avocados, salt, and lime juice, just looking for a nice citrus flavor to lift the rest of the heavy ingredients.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Cotija Cheese</b>. Grated cotija serves the same role in Mexican cuisine as pecorino does in Italian. I wanted it not only for its white color to serve as a backdrop for the top garnishes, but also to add a bit of saltiness to the dip.</li></ul><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><b>Top Garnish</b>. The point of gilding this particular lily was to bring to freshness to the rest of the ingredients. On the top, I spooned on the remainder of the salsa fresca and scattered over some sliced green onions. Before topping the whole with a little bouquet of whole cilantro leaves, I used a squeeze bottle to drizzle on a crisscross of thinned chipotle sour cream.</li></ul></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-78486150874966312522024-02-10T11:56:00.000-08:002024-02-10T11:56:27.180-08:00Black-Eyed Pea and Corn Filé Gumbo<p>I have always loved black-eyed peas. Not only are they part and parcel of my Southern heritage, but they are also delicious, easy to grow, and easy to shell. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqs7CV2FG3FGQt3m50CmAT4cJjMSbe49UWORgi7lGSWZK7OZs9ItZj54adygF_ccmFYOVGcgcsGHud0ULr4J-iU3j8THsmG45RLH1mBvSbvUOew4EyBoK5eHYdbgiLfjsb5WTjmvsiPC2fIR6F_JlJMsA6Q7RnnTO5Zhz04SqP5XEyToRb-kKrGoXYJ3KQ/s2166/IMG_1574.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1625" data-original-width="2166" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqs7CV2FG3FGQt3m50CmAT4cJjMSbe49UWORgi7lGSWZK7OZs9ItZj54adygF_ccmFYOVGcgcsGHud0ULr4J-iU3j8THsmG45RLH1mBvSbvUOew4EyBoK5eHYdbgiLfjsb5WTjmvsiPC2fIR6F_JlJMsA6Q7RnnTO5Zhz04SqP5XEyToRb-kKrGoXYJ3KQ/w400-h300/IMG_1574.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-Eyed Pea and Corn Filé Gumbo</td></tr></tbody></table>Black-eyed peas are very different from beans even though the two are used in the same ways; they belong to two different botanical families. While beans are decidedly New World, field peas such as black-eyed peas come from the Old World, West Africa to be precise. All the types of field peas are lumped into the term cowpea (from their heritage as animal fodder).<div><br /></div><div>I have eaten all manner of cowpeas under many names and in many colors and shapes, such as crowder peas, Sea Island red peas, black-eyed peas, cream peas, lady peas, and pink eye peas. Culinarily, they are interchangeable and for my taste, the fresh green versions are better than the dried versions. At least, they are very different in flavor profile. A green black-eyed pea will be very mild and quick cooking; dried black-eyes are deep and rich in flavor and need long cooking.</div><div><br /></div><div>It being just after the first of the year, black-eyed peas have been on my mind. For us Southerners, a batch of black-eyed peas are required dining to bring good luck for the forthcoming year. For various reasons, I did not make my usual New Years' black-eyed peas, so I wanted to rectify that.</div><div><br /></div><div>As I was walking the grocery store recently, the idea of a black-eyed pea and corn gumbo sprang into my mind unbidden and I stopped by the freezer aisle to score a couple bags of frozen green black-eyed peas and frozen sweet corn kernels. Both of these vegetables freeze well and are among the only frozen vegetables that I use (the odd bag of pearl onions aside).</div><div><br /></div><div>Last night was an opportune moment to make said gumbo and so I started as I do all my gumbos by making a roux. Not wanting to set off the smoke detectors in the house, I kept my roux to medium brown, about two-thirds of the way to being a black roux.</div><div><br /></div><div>A gumbo roux is one part each of fat and flour, heated while stirring, until the flour browns to the shade that you require. The rule of thumb is that the lighter the protein (chicken, seafood) the darker the roux and the darker the meat (venison, pork) the lighter the roux. Back in 2008, I did a <a href="https://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2008/11/first-you-make-some-roux.html" target="_blank">pictorial on making roux,</a> if you want to see the process in action.</div><div><br /></div><div>The next step in making a gumbo for me is to add the trinity (mirepoix, the Cajun holy trinity: onions, peppers, and celery) to the roux which stops the roux from browning further and starts to cook the vegetables. I used one and a half poblano peppers, two stalks of celery, one really large onion, one half a bunch of green onions, and about six cloves of garlic, minced.</div><div><br /></div><div>After stirring the vegetables in, I added about a quarter cup of my home-grown Cajun spice mix and let it cook briefly before adding a quart of water. If I had a good vegetable stock, I would have used that instead of water. I turned the heat down and left the stew base to simmer for a half an hour at which point, I added two bags of frozen black-eyed peas and let them cook until they were tender, about twenty minutes. After the gumbo cooks for a while, the oil that you used in the roux will gather on top and you can ladle it away.</div><div><br /></div><div>To finish the gumbo, I added the corn and then I seasoned and thickened it. In terms of thickening gumbo, there are two methods, one from African slaves and one from indigenous tribes. Now would be a good time to mention that gumbo derived from the Angolan word <i>kingombo, </i>meaning okra, The first means of thickening is to add sliced okra to the stew and let it cook in well. The okra will largely disintegrate and all its (frankly, nasty) mucilaginous interior will thicken the stew.</div><div><br /></div><div>The second method, from the Choctaw tribes native to the Gulf South, is to stir in fil<span style="text-align: center;">é powder, ground sassafras leaves. Sassafras is a small shrub/tree native to the southeast, a shrub whose roots and bark make a nice tea and whose leaves lend a spicy herbal note to dishes, reminiscent to me in some ways of thyme.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">I am not the world's biggest okra fan, having had to eat way too much of it as a child and worse, having had to pick it daily as a child. Cutting okra is an unpleasant experience. It grows in hot humid places such as Alabama where I spent my teenage years. And the head-high plants are horribly irritating to your exposed skin, especially when exacerbated by the inevitable sweat born of such a climate.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">Although I could have bought sliced and frozen okra at the grocery store, where it is neatly stacked alongside the black-eyed peas, my aversion to it leads me to thicken my gumbos with fil</span><span style="text-align: center;">é powder whose flavor I prefer. My mother mostly used okra (duh, they had a freaking garden full of it) and sometimes she committed the culinary faux pas of using both okra and fil</span><span style="text-align: center;">é powder simultaneously, something that could result in your excommunication from the Southern fraternity in certain areas.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">I will say that I do love fried okra, just not the boiled crap that my mother insisted I eat or go hungry. Going hungry was very tempting, I must say.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">At the last moment, I stirred in a good bit of salt, fil</span><span style="text-align: center;">é powder, and the frozen corn. I turned off the heat and let the gumbo stand for five minutes to let the corn warm through. Sweet corn kernels need no cooking at all. And there you have it, a quick gumbo of black-eyed peas and corn.</span></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-91847129630989986752024-02-08T10:46:00.000-08:002024-02-08T10:46:27.354-08:00Roasted Stuffed ArtichokesAnn and I, we love artichokes but we rarely eat fresh ones, mainly relying on canned hearts. This is due to two things really: in our mountainous cold region, it is hard to find good quality artichokes and preparing artichokes (other than simply boiling them) is a lot of tedious work. In other words, it is only worth the effort to prep artichokes if they are great quality, which we never find.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtt02WU2LlkT_9lrXnurKX-wcwTxCJOnBWLbqUtNPVaNlo2_eQG8FBxDDzcfmAL4agVOZpm8opBzBeo29HVvOhpKWj-m1Trxa0Sm4S8FmAgZW4srO-8PzPUCCfgOzA3-cLT6XQa4ak4fTuB5jtzwMf6jvJaS-FAk1mn7Oh3WIlmO8DYH5SACatGwoZAfa/s3737/IMG_1572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2803" data-original-width="3737" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtt02WU2LlkT_9lrXnurKX-wcwTxCJOnBWLbqUtNPVaNlo2_eQG8FBxDDzcfmAL4agVOZpm8opBzBeo29HVvOhpKWj-m1Trxa0Sm4S8FmAgZW4srO-8PzPUCCfgOzA3-cLT6XQa4ak4fTuB5jtzwMf6jvJaS-FAk1mn7Oh3WIlmO8DYH5SACatGwoZAfa/w400-h300/IMG_1572.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuffed Roasted Artichokes</td></tr></tbody></table><div><div>I shouldn't say never, because last week when I hit the store, they had a huge pile of giant green globe artichokes that were amazingly fresh. The cut ends were still fresh and green. And they were so new in the store that there were not any price signs displayed yet. I grabbed four huge chokes, price be damned. Looking at the receipt, they were less than $2 each.</div><div><br /></div><div>Artichokes come from California where spring is the prime season, from March through May, but there is, in some years such as this, a fairly decent winter season as well. These artichokes showed evidence of frost, their outer petals bronzed and slightly blistered from the cold, but I have never been one to shy away from a vegetable because of its looks.</div><div><br /></div><div>In fact, at the restaurant, we would take bushels of blemished vegetables from our growers to keep them from becoming pig or chicken food. Customers at the farmers markets wouldn't buy the ugly vegetables and fruit, but the look in no way impacts the flavor and it would be a shame to waste all that food.</div><div><br /></div><div>Anyway, some marketing type at the big artichoke grower decided to turn the frostbitten artichokes into a "thing" and built a somewhat brilliant campaign around them. They're calling them "Frost Kissed" and claim that they taste better because of the cold weather. I could care less. A beautiful fresh artichoke is a beautiful fresh artichoke, regardless of the color of the bits that you have to trim off anyway. But where I win is that their marketing campaign has made it such that our retail grocer is willing to bring them in so that I and other artichoke hounds can buy them.</div><div><br /></div><div>Boiling artichokes and having each diner peel his own can be fun, but when I have really fresh and beautiful artichokes, I want to roast them to help bring out the nuttiness. I decided that I would trim the toughest parts of the leaves off the artichokes, peel down the stems, and cut them in half vertically.</div><div><br /></div><div>After using a spoon to scrape out the chokes from on top of the hearts and using my fingers to pull out the prickly inner leaves topped with pink and purple thorns, I stuffed the artichokes with a mix of whole peeled garlic cloves, capers, and chopped Italian parsley, topped with a pat of butter. Then I drizzled the artichokes with extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of salt, then put a slice of lemon atop each.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkvNRfrXV8yHXxpd0EBN5IOBbRAMfZwD97jMN51Pnusywo2rWEexD_65gJJB52ms7tukYbSerfkn8kllnAwYOwI4hu_Sbvvt-S0WXa1tEWaOlp34Lb4gk_Iant7BbPVt0XT-xbxlsqbqoMAzor1pBEEhciYj7ROAw-Atl6GQ7zE2f9C3nmklt3sKWI-HS/s3612/IMG_1567.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2709" data-original-width="3612" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAkvNRfrXV8yHXxpd0EBN5IOBbRAMfZwD97jMN51Pnusywo2rWEexD_65gJJB52ms7tukYbSerfkn8kllnAwYOwI4hu_Sbvvt-S0WXa1tEWaOlp34Lb4gk_Iant7BbPVt0XT-xbxlsqbqoMAzor1pBEEhciYj7ROAw-Atl6GQ7zE2f9C3nmklt3sKWI-HS/w400-h300/IMG_1567.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artichoke Halves Stuffed with Peeled Garlic Cloves, Capers, and<br />Italian Parsley, Topped with Butter, Lemon, and Olive Oil</td></tr></tbody></table>After covering the pan with aluminum foil to help steam the artichokes, I put them into a moderate (350F) oven for an hour. Then I mixed up a bit of panko, grated pecorino romano, and a bit of fennel pollen with a glug of olive oil. I spooned this mixture onto the artichokes and ran them under the broiler for a minute or two to brown nicely. Et voilà!</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgLj4oP-aQqXnhMKiON-Wg_ZZOtSzZNZqK7RJFgoeV1esQWlmBX8Roop1VikhBLV00v0AOtOcbMoZTPwveFbK_9_-EXKcVVJRiVBoI68hBSPF9QMWoW9wQWKHR73wUVHIs0tzHQy6CFTQ2Oju0T9E0D2u-xVNMXeHLk8p6HUfjct5y-CoR4wOZtaYVloM/s2032/IMG_1568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1524" data-original-width="2032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDgLj4oP-aQqXnhMKiON-Wg_ZZOtSzZNZqK7RJFgoeV1esQWlmBX8Roop1VikhBLV00v0AOtOcbMoZTPwveFbK_9_-EXKcVVJRiVBoI68hBSPF9QMWoW9wQWKHR73wUVHIs0tzHQy6CFTQ2Oju0T9E0D2u-xVNMXeHLk8p6HUfjct5y-CoR4wOZtaYVloM/w400-h300/IMG_1568.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Broiling the Panko Mix</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopCHB1HfYMdUspNxDSUO5Ex1r2j3dyYQEwZZhRyfpxxyPVln47vWi8dVq1EeAM6LvQk65yUTGE55mlwcfJZfspaw6XxewhfgW2hI3Yw5GJyPtLfMdpqPCoB96Kw1uc1fHfGXLSsEtqj-4N8Qst_DMHP2z19MPY0I4cOjl7aCIx6DvUjjwoxjcVlNsYu4q/s3814/IMG_1571.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2861" data-original-width="3814" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopCHB1HfYMdUspNxDSUO5Ex1r2j3dyYQEwZZhRyfpxxyPVln47vWi8dVq1EeAM6LvQk65yUTGE55mlwcfJZfspaw6XxewhfgW2hI3Yw5GJyPtLfMdpqPCoB96Kw1uc1fHfGXLSsEtqj-4N8Qst_DMHP2z19MPY0I4cOjl7aCIx6DvUjjwoxjcVlNsYu4q/w400-h300/IMG_1571.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Artichokes are a lot of work, no doubt. But taking advantage of really fresh artichokes makes that work really rewarding.<br /><div><br /></div></div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-88183485085465243612024-01-31T14:12:00.000-08:002024-02-04T09:24:42.167-08:00Late January Dinner<p>In the past several months, we've pretty much stopped going out to eat at restaurants around Bend. The lousy food we have had in the past couple of years has made us really tired of spending a lot of money with almost no return. For myriad reasons, quality and consistency of restaurant food is lacking and so for our special meals lately, Ann and I have been cooking at home and inviting friends over to dinner.</p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvmQjZKcSQCAQsV-1rTMxle8qs2IcaI8XqRhR0N_ToLneLzPJOW525dh0SSS4rzFmPp4y7KNxfNL-QbHG9U1on9fAkCuxp19Q3tYHZNVCQxgrv1538TXyntqK2g-jvwzLxsGxKgFd-KCj5MV6g-7np9YsqAsQjVPhcuWiI6BvymNUwQbal80YijE0Ufd6/s3382/IMG_1546.jpg" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2537" data-original-width="3382" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAvmQjZKcSQCAQsV-1rTMxle8qs2IcaI8XqRhR0N_ToLneLzPJOW525dh0SSS4rzFmPp4y7KNxfNL-QbHG9U1on9fAkCuxp19Q3tYHZNVCQxgrv1538TXyntqK2g-jvwzLxsGxKgFd-KCj5MV6g-7np9YsqAsQjVPhcuWiI6BvymNUwQbal80YijE0Ufd6/w400-h300/IMG_1546.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>This past weekend, I really had no overarching theme for the menu; I simply wanted to use (and use up) items that we had on hand already. In addition to a bunch of stuff to use up in the refrigerator, we have a pretty robust pantry that includes a great many items that we can use to cook whatever it is that we want.</p><p>Ann was in charge of cocktails and dessert. For cocktails, she made us one of her favorites, dirty martinis with blue cheese-stuffed olives. I am sorry to say that white liquor isn't my jam and although the cocktails were well made, I just couldn't drink mine and opened a bottle of Crémant d'Alsace to go with my appetizer. As much as I would like to be a martini guy, I am resigned to never being one.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH5HMbccZu9rbkJY2WAuGL8JoElYNrtqfAtfSGMcSJQYlFIij61I9GzUUaIpeDvz57rIcVEyH8vnE3SYXKfRbsIq0mvhVVLqPoIam-JPYNGvhvai6_F5PXwGs-oCIYekv5_GioIf8rgzwO3L2YX8Do6HH7f5wNV4PXfUO96GwwCmt3uM_y09M_p61woq0e/s3009/IMG_1541.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3009" data-original-width="2257" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH5HMbccZu9rbkJY2WAuGL8JoElYNrtqfAtfSGMcSJQYlFIij61I9GzUUaIpeDvz57rIcVEyH8vnE3SYXKfRbsIq0mvhVVLqPoIam-JPYNGvhvai6_F5PXwGs-oCIYekv5_GioIf8rgzwO3L2YX8Do6HH7f5wNV4PXfUO96GwwCmt3uM_y09M_p61woq0e/w300-h400/IMG_1541.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely Dirty Martini</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsyrUmShYN6OTU9ermg1V3VxVEGg9fdVJdnx3pJ4JbZ2hA6SG1is-smp9-0gt5r13m6TYkVCZvfvskAHwgWzdv-mbgmuhfGMa-IRqgaU-BTBEIZZ-iH8niLD4uixElzGFIts0GvYgrTUkrI2FtZXlhl4dlTcTQB4DhGebPYlRqMjex9JfUPXgY8qz-Ayx/s4032/IMG_1539.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilsyrUmShYN6OTU9ermg1V3VxVEGg9fdVJdnx3pJ4JbZ2hA6SG1is-smp9-0gt5r13m6TYkVCZvfvskAHwgWzdv-mbgmuhfGMa-IRqgaU-BTBEIZZ-iH8niLD4uixElzGFIts0GvYgrTUkrI2FtZXlhl4dlTcTQB4DhGebPYlRqMjex9JfUPXgY8qz-Ayx/w300-h400/IMG_1539.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-Cheese Stuffed Olives</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkPeZnBhVfBS5nRzSNcLD2C8xeoRhDYmX5RZt5dNUo5CdglnxC4kWloDX9kSx05qRYVYMyybhBwS7dX51ohHd9VHgGP4LtlrRwqH6SP4d06qTiB4AYHXdRsUpjp_pW8kUtt3f-j8qKDD4NnEbkIsEo3hvfsdY1Q4QRckh4MHqSX2yBz7ummPb-l4FHqygS/s4032/IMG_1536.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkPeZnBhVfBS5nRzSNcLD2C8xeoRhDYmX5RZt5dNUo5CdglnxC4kWloDX9kSx05qRYVYMyybhBwS7dX51ohHd9VHgGP4LtlrRwqH6SP4d06qTiB4AYHXdRsUpjp_pW8kUtt3f-j8qKDD4NnEbkIsEo3hvfsdY1Q4QRckh4MHqSX2yBz7ummPb-l4FHqygS/w300-h400/IMG_1536.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div><br /></div>For appetizers, I had more Scottish cold-smoked salmon and sea trout caviar leftover from our aborted New Year's Eve celebration that I wanted to clear out of the refrigerator. So I envisioned an appetizer of smoked salmon, smoked salmon mouse, and sea trout caviar that is similar in many ways to the <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/storm-day.html" target="_blank">smoked salmon smørrebrød</a> that I made a couple of weeks back when we got pounded by snow. Because this appetizer needed to be gluten-free, I cut cucumbers on the bias to mimic crostini. <div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_rkCsKXZ2HXpKQhLfdjy54p4ZvaDHpY_nOXEs3w7E_9vUPdSacF3Wqvq9IGkiMoU27H3LLRPS7VPCFGsxKcla6EInAMxeAE_jYbq67aYlcRQ6a3DtQNwP495vuflTwmFHie5uUFib-skjBtueEYXKt8e2X21DP-o3aqnK4MUZBgwjilfITojuN5PTfNva/s2824/IMG_1530.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2118" data-original-width="2824" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_rkCsKXZ2HXpKQhLfdjy54p4ZvaDHpY_nOXEs3w7E_9vUPdSacF3Wqvq9IGkiMoU27H3LLRPS7VPCFGsxKcla6EInAMxeAE_jYbq67aYlcRQ6a3DtQNwP495vuflTwmFHie5uUFib-skjBtueEYXKt8e2X21DP-o3aqnK4MUZBgwjilfITojuN5PTfNva/w400-h300/IMG_1530.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoked Salmon, Smoked Salmon Mousse, and Sea Trout Caviar</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilOPA2Ccar8-E_tVOUxaIzUVVxv1uDQAEYk-OpNtmerTnvGBhYnK6LmEx6yWoaWtedfWfoMeR67I3FI2_dUoZz8_QH_F1zNI-L_0Llp95ahyphenhyphenkJqHD-UJ-m6Cfss9afF2qDVtocDVr3vUx6yY-b2-7Ke29Q1SI47ZwavyieQec2Idcio8oGgi7JMw1f-yY0/s3392/IMG_1533.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3392" data-original-width="2544" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilOPA2Ccar8-E_tVOUxaIzUVVxv1uDQAEYk-OpNtmerTnvGBhYnK6LmEx6yWoaWtedfWfoMeR67I3FI2_dUoZz8_QH_F1zNI-L_0Llp95ahyphenhyphenkJqHD-UJ-m6Cfss9afF2qDVtocDVr3vUx6yY-b2-7Ke29Q1SI47ZwavyieQec2Idcio8oGgi7JMw1f-yY0/w300-h400/IMG_1533.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>For the main part of our meal, it was pretty much a no-brainer that we were going to have pork tenderloin. A recent foray to Costco saw a package of four tenderloins come home, two of which were salted away in the freezer, leaving two more in the fridge that needed to be cooked. I decide to stuff a tenderloin with goat cheese and spinach and wrap it in prosciutto, a technique that I developed for the restaurant and which is <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/how-to-prosciutto-wrapped-stuffed-pork.html" target="_blank">documented in a separate post</a> for anyone curious about how to do it.</div><div><br /></div><div>The beauty of this dish is three-fold: it looks a lot more complicated to pull off than it is, it looks beautiful, and you can prep it well in advance, leaving only the final roasting to be done and freeing up your time to visit with your guests.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJcOWYH5XG4NT9cnCcN9YwM17mbq8mDquuZzfv87h0CIPQbeEcPBxMWCI3hDqxcrfLgGlnYf1BG_EEnSw3Us_Z7CAVNaMwvetyLLvMNoABoMv3KA-RFl1CMuLazG6-SB0BHZGLDsE7uviYpdLQ1a8xICWeeELsrNOe-093BPfhY4fwBWuth0EuuMPbQNU1/s2584/IMG_1535.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1938" data-original-width="2584" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJcOWYH5XG4NT9cnCcN9YwM17mbq8mDquuZzfv87h0CIPQbeEcPBxMWCI3hDqxcrfLgGlnYf1BG_EEnSw3Us_Z7CAVNaMwvetyLLvMNoABoMv3KA-RFl1CMuLazG6-SB0BHZGLDsE7uviYpdLQ1a8xICWeeELsrNOe-093BPfhY4fwBWuth0EuuMPbQNU1/w400-h300/IMG_1535.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Searing the Prosciutto-Wrapped Stuffed Pork Tender<br />(cut in half so it would fit into the pan)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIsPboCM7OTsSs8UjkH5sbTDNQCIx2ZoGVA1SnNDUnyZ3itxr7AOtI75DeqEtGuLz6uqmxSnFxe8NWcemZQA-kaflsQH6mo4F-XAiu_K85E_-FVSAvkwmtJcpepkA19GghoXstL4CoK28G51l_ZTxEaOVqFKDGf7_AYz9yx4dIvH3ZtSJlvxExrI5yGw9/s2541/IMG_1538.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1906" data-original-width="2541" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIsPboCM7OTsSs8UjkH5sbTDNQCIx2ZoGVA1SnNDUnyZ3itxr7AOtI75DeqEtGuLz6uqmxSnFxe8NWcemZQA-kaflsQH6mo4F-XAiu_K85E_-FVSAvkwmtJcpepkA19GghoXstL4CoK28G51l_ZTxEaOVqFKDGf7_AYz9yx4dIvH3ZtSJlvxExrI5yGw9/w400-h300/IMG_1538.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seared Pork Tenderloin Rolls, Prepped in Advance, Ready to Roast</td></tr></tbody></table></div>To accompany the pork, I turned to our pantry where I found the tail end of three separate bags of Arborio rice that I wanted to use or consolidate. Moreover, we just ran out of dried porcini and ordered a new bag which is more than will fit into the canister. I wanted to use the overflow that would not fit in the canister and so it seemed pretty natural to make an earthy risotto to go with the pork.</div><div><br /></div><div>One of the neat things about risotto is that you can par-cook the base about ten minutes and let it cool. This then means that it will only take 8-10 minutes to have the risotto ready. In other words, all I had to do when guests were over was spend ten minutes at the range finishing the risotto while the pork roast cooled and rested. I spent the rest of my time socializing and enjoying the evening.</div><div><br /></div><div>I get really tired of chefs making out like risotto needs some kind of crazy voodoo to pull off correctly and that it takes far too long to prepare to put it on the menu. In fact, I have good friends who run a restaurant whose menu claims that a simple plate of risotto will take the kitchen 45 minutes to make, and oh by the way, that will be $45 for the plate. Ridiculous. I love you guys, but that's ridiculous.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrBzRyChdlu5AygwTy8LD26t4DbGmNWp2823E__NtwpZk3F5lgcv3CltiWucLMTMfDlfTTa6Dfbw-PxR_fIRBkEwHD8SgSnweMjYEKZpR738XgFIguemrCI28K1J0pINI2fmZi4hWbnTAiUOenDrp2VyNmdzFtMFt8hmE_RVeyVY22DVl9fncRSuxy7jI/s3439/IMG_1553.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2579" data-original-width="3439" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrBzRyChdlu5AygwTy8LD26t4DbGmNWp2823E__NtwpZk3F5lgcv3CltiWucLMTMfDlfTTa6Dfbw-PxR_fIRBkEwHD8SgSnweMjYEKZpR738XgFIguemrCI28K1J0pINI2fmZi4hWbnTAiUOenDrp2VyNmdzFtMFt8hmE_RVeyVY22DVl9fncRSuxy7jI/w400-h300/IMG_1553.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spinach and Goat Cheese Stuffed Pork Tenderloin on Porcini Risotto<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div>Ann asked also that I reprise the salad that I made last weekend and I obliged her. She just really loved the combination of ingredients: greens, spiced pecans, pomegranate seeds, and pickled shallots all combined with a pomegranate-pickled shallot vinaigrette. You can find all the salad magic covered in prior posts: <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/pork-and-potatoes.html" target="_blank">spicing pecans</a>, <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/pomegranate-and-pickled-shallot.html" target="_blank">pickling shallots</a>, and <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/pomegranate-and-pickled-shallot.html" target="_blank">making the vinaigrette</a>. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv6u-9V5ZO4q09kwD9TmHcR2OdCqRJus_4pxmG9ENRSDvyZ_zJb7eRFnauFy-wj6VNuXDsk2OARrEQpmc6N6roFgaWJchIMgyQ75nCHs779qLrDbu0_oGVofeXLZFcgHp7nG3fmZ24ETHEaVRfzwXePDPJmu98IbDKXrd42Ur_ndossjqUZPPoktuIb4wr/s4032/IMG_1547.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv6u-9V5ZO4q09kwD9TmHcR2OdCqRJus_4pxmG9ENRSDvyZ_zJb7eRFnauFy-wj6VNuXDsk2OARrEQpmc6N6roFgaWJchIMgyQ75nCHs779qLrDbu0_oGVofeXLZFcgHp7nG3fmZ24ETHEaVRfzwXePDPJmu98IbDKXrd42Ur_ndossjqUZPPoktuIb4wr/w400-h300/IMG_1547.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greens with Pickled Shallot and Pomegranate Vinaigrette</td></tr></tbody></table>In keeping with the theme of using up, I remembered that for the holidays, Ann had prepped a batch of her delicious shortbread made with orange zest, rosemary, olive oil, sea salt, and very little sugar. Unfortunately, she became sick before she could do all the baking that she wanted to do. I suggested that we take the remaining log of dough from the freezer, cut it into discs, bake them, and then dip the shortbread cookies in melted chocolate for an easy finish to dinner. I sliced; Ann baked; I melted the chocolate and dipped the cookies; and Ann applied sea salt to the chocolate. Tag team and done!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL94CaN_fgQTGcCOMsbVZmFy-pEAxSXgtVAeX4AJtix_2-cnR8CgKLRO2Rjd1a14SVjidCT7MNEp2FAP8Jma5DWU10kyzN2ZGnOfGjGnIYN4qjRnejyacUPmXMuvfwlH6tjCjKWnaRJmCgvziVHejeLUPez8YZujhiKLk8vqh4BYa5JAeF1o5a9zV4rI9S/s4032/IMG_1529.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL94CaN_fgQTGcCOMsbVZmFy-pEAxSXgtVAeX4AJtix_2-cnR8CgKLRO2Rjd1a14SVjidCT7MNEp2FAP8Jma5DWU10kyzN2ZGnOfGjGnIYN4qjRnejyacUPmXMuvfwlH6tjCjKWnaRJmCgvziVHejeLUPez8YZujhiKLk8vqh4BYa5JAeF1o5a9zV4rI9S/w400-h300/IMG_1529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chocolate-Dipped Orange-Rosemary-Olive Oil Shortbreads</td></tr></tbody></table>As a final thought, I love having leftovers in the refrigerator that can be repurposed into another meal. The following evening, I formed some of the leftover risotto into cakes that I crusted in a pan while gently rewarming the two remaining slices of stuffed pork tenderloin. While I poached four eggs, I whipped up a little of my pimentón sauce with which to finish our dinners of leftovers.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGG2TsQoP0zPLzM3GJMZITUgptqJM8FxvwygXJcoxGtMA_YBy8mvElk3DPTQ0NoFdw_ZwCnFqsLEbSBLQjkCutzlLUHqeicE1g5YjFTkS_IEUFeEAhMADuch8a7etk4yiTJxrw5p4z5QScxbcsu7FnBDEL3o-2Z8p-krXmkq5ddT_Y7vA7iqiv8r4U2-z/s3632/IMG_1555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2724" data-original-width="3632" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGG2TsQoP0zPLzM3GJMZITUgptqJM8FxvwygXJcoxGtMA_YBy8mvElk3DPTQ0NoFdw_ZwCnFqsLEbSBLQjkCutzlLUHqeicE1g5YjFTkS_IEUFeEAhMADuch8a7etk4yiTJxrw5p4z5QScxbcsu7FnBDEL3o-2Z8p-krXmkq5ddT_Y7vA7iqiv8r4U2-z/w400-h300/IMG_1555.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leftovers: Stuffed Pork Tenderloin and Risotto Cake<br />Topped with Poached Eggs and Pimentón Sauce </td></tr></tbody></table>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-64188398769249529352024-01-30T11:51:00.000-08:002024-01-31T13:12:12.959-08:00How To: Prosciutto-Wrapped, Stuffed Pork Tenderloin<p>For some cooking tasks, pictures are far more instructive than words. In fact, when I was a young pup teaching myself the rudiments of classical cuisine—I never went to culinary school; they did not exist back then—I learned a massive amount from Jacques Pépin to whom I owe a great debt. Chef Pépin published a photographic book of cooking techniques called <i>La Technique</i> that helped me learn so many things that were then new to me, all by way of pictures.</p><p>How to stuff a tenderloin and wrap it in prosciutto is such task that would benefit from a pictorial essay. For dinner the other night, I stuffed a pork tenderloin with spinach and goat cheese and then wrapped it in prosciutto, taking a few photos to illustrate the concept.</p><p>This stuffed pork tenderloin is a direct outgrowth of the <a href="https://oneblockwest.blogspot.com/2010/03/prosciutto-wrapped-loin-of-rabbit.html" target="_blank">prosciutto-wrapped rabbit loin</a> that I used to make at the restaurant, pictured below with haricots verts, butternut squash cream, and black trumpet mushrooms. The rabbit loin is stuffed with a layer of leafy green (varied from season to season) and then a layer of fresh goat cheese, direct from the farm that supplied us with cheese and goat meat. This particular photo would have been a fall version of the dish as butternut squash and black trumpets are not in season until the fall.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451523603491080898" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrnIqMNI8MgW6G7dQGqejsYUKDvoCgmzHD4TjGuh_8sfaJiz-WXoEuPb6XgiGnwzuvDYNoyAMnh3a_-nYhE-LRxZL1r02XOibowOhlUuRBhkWOEJXPPsZJg5wEZn2QADvVWiTjQjB7OL53/s400/rabbit7.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prosciutto-Wrapped Rabbit Loin</td></tr></tbody></table><div>Because rabbits are so small, they have tiny loins. Two loins put together is barely enough to feed an adult, so stuffing a single piece as I did for the pork tenderloin is out of the question. The piece of rabbit would be too tiny to stuff and insufficient to feed an adult.</div><div><br /></div><div>Loins run along the back of the animal from the shoulder to the tail. In rabbits, the shoulder end is fairly chunky while the tail end tapers to a fine point. When you open the loin up like a book with your knife and then gently pound it to flatten it, you get a very long and narrow triangular piece of meat.</div><div><br /></div><div>To make a piece of meat that you can stuff and roll, you place the two triangles side by side with the large end of one loin next to the pointed end of the other, as you can see below.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsiFgbciPyApT_aQObXaK0d-to6xGULaLA9FACu_iCbE2GQJHTv-aS0Oeb3qxp0eXiI4evWjCUNkwCJzoAsUuTQMG-RyAESmNj7Vo1V8TVzmHPf0H1m3bT9zukkwLJr1FNs9YiaisMgAQYEHMlwfeXLwBjGYdxRSogkrwJ9ftNYYXXfVxwd3LTAi4BvNY/s899/loins.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="899" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdsiFgbciPyApT_aQObXaK0d-to6xGULaLA9FACu_iCbE2GQJHTv-aS0Oeb3qxp0eXiI4evWjCUNkwCJzoAsUuTQMG-RyAESmNj7Vo1V8TVzmHPf0H1m3bT9zukkwLJr1FNs9YiaisMgAQYEHMlwfeXLwBjGYdxRSogkrwJ9ftNYYXXfVxwd3LTAi4BvNY/w400-h121/loins.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Once you do this, you require a means to hold the two pieces of loin together once rolled. I hit upon the idea of wrapping the whole thing inside prosciutto. When protein cooks, it shrinks and tightens, so when the prosciutto cooks, it snugs the whole roll. It also tastes great and looks beautiful as you can see in the photo of the rabbit loin above.<br /><div><br /></div><div>A quick word about loin versus tenderloin. This post is about a pork tenderloin, but the discussion above is about rabbit loin. The loin runs from shoulder to tail on the outside of the back on top of the ribcage and is sometimes known as backstrap. The tenderloin runs the same way, but under the ribcage inside the body cavity. The tenderloins are much, much smaller than the loins.</div><div><br /></div><div>By virtue of the large size of a pig, a tenderloin is sufficient to feed four people whereas two loins of rabbit are enough for one person. Regardless, this technique applies equally to loins and tenderloins.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGpJizbWXZT7Le2et87Hws7NzLdScQxtf-f1o5oVIqB0vfVY4TmOM4XFfJIKmZ0AVkbPPqY7LJEgj1IWcnqUse1Jw_OVT_gXTvqLmKV0W7z-hdXbMwRJpIntIIVZ5pCMoy4pWAYB5-XcEHcG_DLCuqbWnMNvjqO5_xGJCdShyJ1HCcFLhwj33gJoyJTFw/s4032/IMG_1516.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbGpJizbWXZT7Le2et87Hws7NzLdScQxtf-f1o5oVIqB0vfVY4TmOM4XFfJIKmZ0AVkbPPqY7LJEgj1IWcnqUse1Jw_OVT_gXTvqLmKV0W7z-hdXbMwRJpIntIIVZ5pCMoy4pWAYB5-XcEHcG_DLCuqbWnMNvjqO5_xGJCdShyJ1HCcFLhwj33gJoyJTFw/w400-h300/IMG_1516.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Untrimmed Pork Tenderloin</td></tr></tbody></table>First, remove the silverskin from the loin with a very sharp knife. I'm assuming that if you're reading this post other than for entertainment, you already own a good knife, have decent knife skills, and can find and remove the silverskin and excess fat from the tenderloin. <div><br /></div><div>Next, trim the really pointy last inch or so off the tail of the tenderloin and slice along one side of the loin about one centimeter (3/8") from the cutting board. Open up the tenderloin and continue to slice and unroll it until you have a rectangular sheet of meat one centimeter thick, as shown in the photo below.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQoxPri-mKkZtWOcLCjXtaveLA5ncyfnqjAmh4XYn4l-0xKSAjs_O6TF_hTgGpk4UhhDI-4oqbH7L-aTMRin7WrN__lG70DWMO0xVkkPQdFhYlOr-e4ZJM5LsMsJBfNc-6p80xnCjewxlhcLtrRcoNwyLwBhjma4qUnpjJQANONNl2fT34PsspcP4kuXvn/s4032/IMG_1518.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQoxPri-mKkZtWOcLCjXtaveLA5ncyfnqjAmh4XYn4l-0xKSAjs_O6TF_hTgGpk4UhhDI-4oqbH7L-aTMRin7WrN__lG70DWMO0xVkkPQdFhYlOr-e4ZJM5LsMsJBfNc-6p80xnCjewxlhcLtrRcoNwyLwBhjma4qUnpjJQANONNl2fT34PsspcP4kuXvn/w400-h300/IMG_1518.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trimmed and Unrolled Tenderloin</td></tr></tbody></table>Pound the tenderloin gently to ensure that it is even thickness and to enlarge it a bit.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDsm6gFDtbEZiEJekmnxcT1N5VeuJQNJ_h4ro7nQsS9cxc9onQjy08OHB7OzsuglT7oenmGUZwx-QGGhc3-OUVlmqIG4gfcvKLA7ZmwYdw69YKPKzlrdbWSt6HpdYNvrdTFV0Mw8LLQ77MMyWO28f-pbqBeca-cqmuncjALnYJee4D_ipwV6GCmY3EWcp/s4032/IMG_1519.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDsm6gFDtbEZiEJekmnxcT1N5VeuJQNJ_h4ro7nQsS9cxc9onQjy08OHB7OzsuglT7oenmGUZwx-QGGhc3-OUVlmqIG4gfcvKLA7ZmwYdw69YKPKzlrdbWSt6HpdYNvrdTFV0Mw8LLQ77MMyWO28f-pbqBeca-cqmuncjALnYJee4D_ipwV6GCmY3EWcp/w400-h300/IMG_1519.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gently Pounded Tenderloin</td></tr></tbody></table>Next, lay down a layer of film wrap on your cutting board and on top of the film, lay down a layer of overlapping slices of prosciutto as wide as the piece of tenderloin is long and tall enough to be about three inches more than the width of the tenderloin.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifu5PgSsQKz2rM09nkewoTLqjoLXBiD-sX8Cglw_tp94u1BIuaE5PKLAmFw_QAfF6empXA4UhwhERrYaz_vZboniF5W63dAJ50VchUt3Tqj_9CLKBAy8TuxARpYjtrxbY9OJb0Sk8-HrYNPvbHgAXnhg9x_gnmhYfQZdboXGZ3gpM4dNfb4JHrG0PMnhOW/s3627/IMG_1521.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2720" data-original-width="3627" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifu5PgSsQKz2rM09nkewoTLqjoLXBiD-sX8Cglw_tp94u1BIuaE5PKLAmFw_QAfF6empXA4UhwhERrYaz_vZboniF5W63dAJ50VchUt3Tqj_9CLKBAy8TuxARpYjtrxbY9OJb0Sk8-HrYNPvbHgAXnhg9x_gnmhYfQZdboXGZ3gpM4dNfb4JHrG0PMnhOW/w400-h300/IMG_1521.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lay Down Film First, Then Prosciutto</td></tr></tbody></table>Place the tenderloin on top of the prosciutto with the tenderloin about at the edge of the prosciutto closest to you with all the excess prosciutto away from you.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfGADHQPuxPmN6S0vOyV5sKf-v_Lu_kMQunDzNR_aNa-cew4QU_H_4S4hkiwLOMBuFqgVnKVNT7tDUx_p_o2NkJ63cGxz87q0LktPwPvDwzSP4xA63Q5V_Dmftn1nVHVrHzVK4ZukftffHR14R3HNiK-t9GOMOX_TMUtvdVvhn0mglHXaZeBxm2H25UAIR/s3812/IMG_1522.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2859" data-original-width="3812" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfGADHQPuxPmN6S0vOyV5sKf-v_Lu_kMQunDzNR_aNa-cew4QU_H_4S4hkiwLOMBuFqgVnKVNT7tDUx_p_o2NkJ63cGxz87q0LktPwPvDwzSP4xA63Q5V_Dmftn1nVHVrHzVK4ZukftffHR14R3HNiK-t9GOMOX_TMUtvdVvhn0mglHXaZeBxm2H25UAIR/w400-h300/IMG_1522.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Place Tenderloin on the Prosciutto; Season with Salt and Pepper</td></tr></tbody></table>Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper, then put a thin layer of stuffing on top of the tenderloin, leaving some room at the edges. When you roll the tenderloin, the stuffing will naturally push out from the center.</div><div><br /></div><div>In this case, I have used one 8-ounce stick of fresh goat cheese and a pound of baby spinach. I sautéed the spinach in olive oil with garlic, let it cool, squeezed out the excess liquid, and chopped it. Then I creamed together the cheese and spinach and seasoned it. You can use any filling you desire.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieixcPuylV9N0fucPm9huHdZQQDrbU6Bm1j1KwzrNwhrSVl39ggXszh0gAHKdgD_i4M2Oj0cL6tfNDVklQsTMi-azPySSaq3q6eD7G_MT-oIv1MQk9OI5ihloYbxC8rjvHUYD_Pq5cgQsuEap0TWVcZDRlpjNYURHIlx06U_IwNU2o-IG7h2H3nNGeLnjs/s4032/IMG_1523.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieixcPuylV9N0fucPm9huHdZQQDrbU6Bm1j1KwzrNwhrSVl39ggXszh0gAHKdgD_i4M2Oj0cL6tfNDVklQsTMi-azPySSaq3q6eD7G_MT-oIv1MQk9OI5ihloYbxC8rjvHUYD_Pq5cgQsuEap0TWVcZDRlpjNYURHIlx06U_IwNU2o-IG7h2H3nNGeLnjs/w400-h300/IMG_1523.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spread on a Layer of Stuffing, Leaving Room at the Edges</td></tr></tbody></table>Using the film wrap to help you, start to roll the edge of the tenderloin away from you. If you've ever rolled a burrito or maki sushi, you know the drill.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwA2k8chz0pBq6FT2zROhiodrgAbsfbJg_35UNPAad7fTe7F3xWA74D7PMKMV0AuQ_NBHz6_6tAEE4-ljexOYx29NddA1nrP5WGbTXTOfIUSXWXtqr2Qu3Ppz2KHVkpn2InObjjlKpZ8sE9i6SZWZcNX_Coz5tbTpNmtHtzQvQQphft9rHzFFNkuJ_JAyh/s4032/IMG_1524.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwA2k8chz0pBq6FT2zROhiodrgAbsfbJg_35UNPAad7fTe7F3xWA74D7PMKMV0AuQ_NBHz6_6tAEE4-ljexOYx29NddA1nrP5WGbTXTOfIUSXWXtqr2Qu3Ppz2KHVkpn2InObjjlKpZ8sE9i6SZWZcNX_Coz5tbTpNmtHtzQvQQphft9rHzFFNkuJ_JAyh/w400-h300/IMG_1524.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Start Rolling the Tenderloin Away From You</td></tr></tbody></table>Continue rolling the tenderloin away from you. Use your fingers, protected by the film wrap, to snug the roll in on itself and keep it tight while you are rolling.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_8zT3t9wUI8h22Je168WZhB-ILemnnmTSxaIMx-7RWBcmVRpLvUu8LnhQgdhtrFzpCGpbr81EcPDl8XC712FqOvHohoPwARky_PExWQuy4KrjuDN1dI9E2w4N4MJV8GqD7_kM4z846jAF5AzkegGbkCUHksbphl9P7A04b5iYBzdMqmdEFhBj18tlk_55/s3712/IMG_1525.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2784" data-original-width="3712" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_8zT3t9wUI8h22Je168WZhB-ILemnnmTSxaIMx-7RWBcmVRpLvUu8LnhQgdhtrFzpCGpbr81EcPDl8XC712FqOvHohoPwARky_PExWQuy4KrjuDN1dI9E2w4N4MJV8GqD7_kM4z846jAF5AzkegGbkCUHksbphl9P7A04b5iYBzdMqmdEFhBj18tlk_55/w400-h300/IMG_1525.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Continue Rolling the Tenderloin Evenly and Firmly</td></tr></tbody></table>When you finish rolling the tenderloin, peel the film back towards you exposing the now prosciutto-covered roll.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmUxvt3qbPZl_uEFv673aXIlfw7LWzC1y5kx8GOwyZh2FtSp_Es5N8i4yQGZ0brbNRUAJgZNbZUoWPHr5SxzkKNqwYkc2bugluGVuyDFgxbfc-f5-Mf7_sxjpSs-z24vo0mnErC_fyWdL9i5amKGs6zzIhMltmWth55w_8I_W_qpiz-5I8ZjCJiGop95n/s3822/IMG_1527.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2867" data-original-width="3822" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWmUxvt3qbPZl_uEFv673aXIlfw7LWzC1y5kx8GOwyZh2FtSp_Es5N8i4yQGZ0brbNRUAJgZNbZUoWPHr5SxzkKNqwYkc2bugluGVuyDFgxbfc-f5-Mf7_sxjpSs-z24vo0mnErC_fyWdL9i5amKGs6zzIhMltmWth55w_8I_W_qpiz-5I8ZjCJiGop95n/w400-h300/IMG_1527.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fully Rolled Tenderloin</td></tr></tbody></table>Next, seal the roll. Use the film away from you to pull the tails of the prosciutto towards you to seal the roll. Alternatively, you can keep rolling the roll away from you to accomplish the same thing.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvjf-NAJsNOAk_3sZoKMHPhLc7-JdrAaEAZLbeawOe9kduNdhqCG6mZpwvO6GkFDv1fuDyiVpBFC5a4aC3lzQIEan3UWNXW6jVHlmWTi9gckGWsZtc9d48cP4L0BrOILQZS3wHwM1M6qcE7wOL3FCpOmXq7hF_TBtLFCrIfAEM46Zk72QmXu680yi7O9p/s3622/IMG_1528.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2716" data-original-width="3622" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvjf-NAJsNOAk_3sZoKMHPhLc7-JdrAaEAZLbeawOe9kduNdhqCG6mZpwvO6GkFDv1fuDyiVpBFC5a4aC3lzQIEan3UWNXW6jVHlmWTi9gckGWsZtc9d48cP4L0BrOILQZS3wHwM1M6qcE7wOL3FCpOmXq7hF_TBtLFCrIfAEM46Zk72QmXu680yi7O9p/w400-h300/IMG_1528.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seal the Roll</td></tr></tbody></table><div>At this point, you are done. If you are using cheese in the stuffing, you might want to put the roll in the refrigerator to firm up again before cooking. Cooking is a two-step process for this pork tenderloin. First, sear the roll all the way around on the stove top and then roast in a moderate oven until done to your liking. If you don't have a pan wide enough to sear the entire roll, cut the roll in half as I did.</div><div><br /></div><div>I don't bother with a thermometer when roasting a stuffed pork tenderloin because the center stuffing is already cooked and if you take your temperature in the stuffing, the thin layer of pork is likely to be overcooked. Rather, I give the loin a squeeze in the oven and take it out when it has firmed up all over. It should definitely rest for a good ten minutes or more before serving.</div><div><br /></div><div>Final thought: if you stuff a rabbit loin, it really doesn't need much if any time in the oven after searing on the range top.</div></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrBzRyChdlu5AygwTy8LD26t4DbGmNWp2823E__NtwpZk3F5lgcv3CltiWucLMTMfDlfTTa6Dfbw-PxR_fIRBkEwHD8SgSnweMjYEKZpR738XgFIguemrCI28K1J0pINI2fmZi4hWbnTAiUOenDrp2VyNmdzFtMFt8hmE_RVeyVY22DVl9fncRSuxy7jI/s3439/IMG_1553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2579" data-original-width="3439" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrBzRyChdlu5AygwTy8LD26t4DbGmNWp2823E__NtwpZk3F5lgcv3CltiWucLMTMfDlfTTa6Dfbw-PxR_fIRBkEwHD8SgSnweMjYEKZpR738XgFIguemrCI28K1J0pINI2fmZi4hWbnTAiUOenDrp2VyNmdzFtMFt8hmE_RVeyVY22DVl9fncRSuxy7jI/w400-h300/IMG_1553.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Product: Stuffed Pork Tenderloin on Porcini Risotto</td></tr></tbody></table>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-73158976919368113232024-01-28T11:28:00.000-08:002024-01-28T11:28:41.177-08:00Pomegranate and Pickled Shallot Vinaigrette<p>I've made this pomegranate and pickled shallot vinaigrette a couple times recently and it is worth remembering for winter salads (when pomegranates are in season), hence this post. If I don't record this idea, it will disappear into the ether as my mind continues its unending quest for new foods and flavors.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2-QsRLiEr7d8xoMBD-1gvZXcObn_aJ1OnkzJLkAwhZr5lGzf7UutZykhwCECy9NzuoYc7ZaORg7V6JdEpkQPm6zPp-Z7RlHTxEhd81bgW9lfx5Ajp1cMh2ePcJJ4PkO-Co6WSgZyQ6beZXpLP-HsiJIYPCB2aLcRFtLKLt7sdsKPOFNiwo4nYPzTz-KA/s1261/IMG_1515.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="946" data-original-width="1261" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2-QsRLiEr7d8xoMBD-1gvZXcObn_aJ1OnkzJLkAwhZr5lGzf7UutZykhwCECy9NzuoYc7ZaORg7V6JdEpkQPm6zPp-Z7RlHTxEhd81bgW9lfx5Ajp1cMh2ePcJJ4PkO-Co6WSgZyQ6beZXpLP-HsiJIYPCB2aLcRFtLKLt7sdsKPOFNiwo4nYPzTz-KA/w400-h300/IMG_1515.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pomegranate and Pickled Shallot Vinaigrette</td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: left;">Pomegranate and Pickled Shallot Vinaigrette</h3><p>This is a simple dressing that I typically make (as you see in the photo above) in a nearly empty mustard container using up the dregs of mustard in that container. I love whole grain mustard a lot and have a constant supply of jars that I have nearly emptied.</p><p>FWIW, I use Plochman's Stone Ground mustard; it's reliably stocked here in town and it comes in a reasonable size for someone who goes through a jar every two weeks. At the restaurant we used Maille whole grain mustard, but even though I prefer it, we can't get it here in Central Oregon.</p><p>Although you can make this dressing in your blender, I find that making it directly in the mustard container using an immersion blender is most efficient. If you're serious about cooking, investing in a good (say Waring Pro) immersion blender is a worthwhile expenditure (currently less than $150). There are applications such as making salad dressings and smoothing out soup on the stove top for which it is an invaluable tool.</p><p>The following recipe yields about a cup of dressing, enough for 2-4 salads. It will scale in pretty much direct proportion. This recipe uses a classic vinaigrette ratio of 1 part vinegar to 2 parts oil. You can certainly adjust that to your taste. I find that the Sherry vinegar and the pomegranates have enough acidity that I want to tame it with a bit of sugar. I use agave nectar because it blends in beautifully. You could use any source of sugar: honey, brown sugar, maple syrup, etc.</p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">1/3 cup Sherry vinegar<br />2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil<br />1 tablespoon whole grained mustard<br />1 pickled shallot (see recipe below)<br />1/4 cup pomegranate seeds<br />1 teaspoon agave nectar<br />1 pinch salt</blockquote><p>Blend all ingredients well. The mustard will keep the dressing emulsified for a few hours. I find putting the lid on the mustard jar and shaking the dressing well will bring it back together, another reason I like the mustard jar method of making dressings at home. And of course, you can store any leftover dressing in the jar in the refrigerator.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Pickled Shallots</h3><p>I never use a formal recipe for brines when I am making small batches of pickles. I make a brine that tastes good to me at the time and use that. For me, it's all about balancing acidity, sugar, and salt in a brine that tastes great.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4z7_EitieJtICEU3bWJD4zRjseohWlXCRFhCTwtVBMjZhiXf5_gRKSquVN6MkTicIAyw-j0F-buH3CFJuEj1_nLYNR2UlDaywiMtOPR1YaEEF7be4l9EJ4jnq77mSHYdBqNgLKi5U9k4VDJ9VyMt0xeKWpJktG89tJoR0m1zhD9kbTHPBhVhZ9yEgA1U/s3432/IMG_1482.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2574" data-original-width="3432" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4z7_EitieJtICEU3bWJD4zRjseohWlXCRFhCTwtVBMjZhiXf5_gRKSquVN6MkTicIAyw-j0F-buH3CFJuEj1_nLYNR2UlDaywiMtOPR1YaEEF7be4l9EJ4jnq77mSHYdBqNgLKi5U9k4VDJ9VyMt0xeKWpJktG89tJoR0m1zhD9kbTHPBhVhZ9yEgA1U/w400-h300/IMG_1482.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pickled Shallots<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">I start by peeling shallots, slicing them into rings, and placing them in heat-proof containers such as the half-pint canning jar that you see in the photo above. Then I make a brine that suits my taste, bring it to a boil, and pour it over the shallots to cover. The shallots can be eaten once they cool, but they do continue to get better as they sit in the brine. I make these pickles in small batches and I do not refrigerate them. I make no attempt to seal the containers either as this pickles are not designed for long storage. The jar that you see above, I made 4-5 weeks ago.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Basic Pickle Brine Ratio</h3><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Here is a basic pickle brine that you can use as the basis for your brine. Mix up a batch, taste it, and adjust it to your liking. You can flavor it with herbs and spices as you like. When I make pickles, I put fresh herbs directly in the jars with the ingredients to be pickled. When I use spices and dried herbs, I boil them in the brine for a while to extract their flavors.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: left;">1/2 cup apple cider vinegar</div><div style="text-align: left;">1/2 cup water</div><div style="text-align: left;">1 tablespoon kosher salt</div><div style="text-align: left;">1 teaspoon granulated sugar</div></blockquote><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">This recipe makes a cup of brine. You can scale it in direct proportion for any amount of brine you desire. At the restaurant, we would make gallons at a time. We had a pickle shelf in our walk-in that was four-feet wide, six-feet tall, two-feet deep, and was loaded from top to bottom with pickles that we used for garnishes and on our charcuterie plates. There was almost nothing we wouldn't pickle in an effort not to waste a single thing that our producers brought to us.</div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-12037579156292767432024-01-24T11:18:00.000-08:002024-01-24T11:18:06.247-08:00Ersatz New Year's Eve, At Long Last<p>Ann and I had planned for much of the year with Rob and Dyce to go to their house on New Year's Eve to celebrate the change in years with them. They had stocked up on Champagne and caviar for the evening and we bought caviar to bring as well. And, I had planned quite an elaborate latke board to bring as well, because who doesn't like caviar on their latkes?</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe12R3UpnIVmzABkE-mfOIxE5_m8ASDVI81MMWYcxX0XTinoKSPZfwSzVAej-V8BVS80GzGbP5xKTi-BM8nK9y8AwLzGI6BchJAUKGbsiAPCa4gEesZFoFieBatLSoavVFSqRc7B-OJirZ3u81qnx9PRcOfls3srs7A7vvFCbe_kc9ynaEynjYBBEAldRK/s3770/IMG_1513.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2828" data-original-width="3770" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe12R3UpnIVmzABkE-mfOIxE5_m8ASDVI81MMWYcxX0XTinoKSPZfwSzVAej-V8BVS80GzGbP5xKTi-BM8nK9y8AwLzGI6BchJAUKGbsiAPCa4gEesZFoFieBatLSoavVFSqRc7B-OJirZ3u81qnx9PRcOfls3srs7A7vvFCbe_kc9ynaEynjYBBEAldRK/w400-h300/IMG_1513.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caviar Feast</td></tr></tbody></table>Rob and Dyce headed off to Italy for the holidays and on return, both were sick. And Ann was sick. And I threw out my back, again. And we kept putting off the caviar in hopes that we could all be well at the same time, at least well enough to enjoy the caviar.<p>Finally, after four or five delays, we managed to get together. Ann and I had long since consumed all the ingredients for the latke board, but we hung on to the caviar. And so it was that on Sunday night, now in late January, we got together for a very subdued celebration, it having been more than a month since we got together last.</p><p>Rob opened some really nice Champagne while we were there. Sadly because of the imminent threat of icy streets, I needed my wits about me and nursed a glass and a half over three hours.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlfPemk0ymamCrwVk6rrmCfD30b520wnPhexnQ5T3Nrjy0dJxvElEi1SYP_5i707RpLHtq0QnKWwgZmLGVygkfzgdKegFQG9s5m5yqvIzrd5KSXPkmFccOyJgjtY9ehJ2xKNh6TsVT5BpA-GLA2xSvvEzqCPYZNz1nRDBKSB_xVELSsXXlkTWFwVIzk5r8/s2297/IMG_1501.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2297" data-original-width="1723" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlfPemk0ymamCrwVk6rrmCfD30b520wnPhexnQ5T3Nrjy0dJxvElEi1SYP_5i707RpLHtq0QnKWwgZmLGVygkfzgdKegFQG9s5m5yqvIzrd5KSXPkmFccOyJgjtY9ehJ2xKNh6TsVT5BpA-GLA2xSvvEzqCPYZNz1nRDBKSB_xVELSsXXlkTWFwVIzk5r8/w300-h400/IMG_1501.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Rob very kindly made some blini to go with the caviar while we brought along a big bag of potato chips and a ramekin each of dill-horseradish sour cream and saffron aїoli. Potato chips and caviar is a well-known pairing with Champagne and a bit of my saffron aїoli makes it just that much better. I made the aїoli knowing that Dyce is a fiend for it.</div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-rd-l-2aqDHTkFGUEEh_BJNeOULH_tehxKuJfDFgI4M9LhUIrcYYyykOOjyOW3-3wxbaLDrYUdwHjGUI7tChbQfOcc1s8vSp6RqHdOFQnQcoD6pST1U-nUmzh20XcjfHGlbav5d_gY471YqaPgE7zC9RIwSzJJr_nKVgDzKt_bttWfDyGVMK_4YrmMDr/s4032/IMG_1504.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-rd-l-2aqDHTkFGUEEh_BJNeOULH_tehxKuJfDFgI4M9LhUIrcYYyykOOjyOW3-3wxbaLDrYUdwHjGUI7tChbQfOcc1s8vSp6RqHdOFQnQcoD6pST1U-nUmzh20XcjfHGlbav5d_gY471YqaPgE7zC9RIwSzJJr_nKVgDzKt_bttWfDyGVMK_4YrmMDr/w300-h400/IMG_1504.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob Made Blini</td></tr></tbody></table><div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9gMwhbnGnSIMhF61VV5a7wmvqMrrXdLqPbHiyMiz1G9E_A9MUqcmaoqLxFXRHDQtouFZHDBRSsnvMAYhy7TvVTI3K8IH9cIHkVPrJ24cA5Vzcp1Bm1NCHxULhNclt4ITIfcEn5TfhomHVegNYSV1ewnYoUj6b1_FQuLftEJ7dviMwxyj_kwu7CIEcn6R/s3574/IMG_1502.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2680" data-original-width="3574" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS9gMwhbnGnSIMhF61VV5a7wmvqMrrXdLqPbHiyMiz1G9E_A9MUqcmaoqLxFXRHDQtouFZHDBRSsnvMAYhy7TvVTI3K8IH9cIHkVPrJ24cA5Vzcp1Bm1NCHxULhNclt4ITIfcEn5TfhomHVegNYSV1ewnYoUj6b1_FQuLftEJ7dviMwxyj_kwu7CIEcn6R/w400-h300/IMG_1502.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caviar Anyone?<br />(top left, clockwise) American Paddlefish, Sea Trout, White Sturgeon Royal, and White Sturgeon</td></tr></tbody></table>A word about caviar. The caviar market has led to the terrible exploitation of several species of fish, most notably the assorted sturgeons from Eastern Europe and Russia. In fact, it is mainly illegal to harvest many species in these areas because of this rampant abuse. As a responsible restaurateur, I only sourced farmed caviar from reputable suppliers for the restaurant and I continue post-restaurant to do the same.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe12R3UpnIVmzABkE-mfOIxE5_m8ASDVI81MMWYcxX0XTinoKSPZfwSzVAej-V8BVS80GzGbP5xKTi-BM8nK9y8AwLzGI6BchJAUKGbsiAPCa4gEesZFoFieBatLSoavVFSqRc7B-OJirZ3u81qnx9PRcOfls3srs7A7vvFCbe_kc9ynaEynjYBBEAldRK/s3770/IMG_1513.jpg" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2828" data-original-width="3770" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe12R3UpnIVmzABkE-mfOIxE5_m8ASDVI81MMWYcxX0XTinoKSPZfwSzVAej-V8BVS80GzGbP5xKTi-BM8nK9y8AwLzGI6BchJAUKGbsiAPCa4gEesZFoFieBatLSoavVFSqRc7B-OJirZ3u81qnx9PRcOfls3srs7A7vvFCbe_kc9ynaEynjYBBEAldRK/w400-h300/IMG_1513.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Rob is quite the caviar connoisseur and splurged for a couple of different tins of farm-raised White Sturgeon caviar from Sterling in California, our West Coast supplier of choice. Ann and I have <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2021/01/new-years-2020.html" target="_blank">had this caviar before</a> for our own celebrations and it is a wonderful product. White Sturgeon, the primary sturgeon species in the US West, is not quite as good as either Beluga or Ossetra, but it tastes quite good, comes sustainably from fish also used for meat production, and is priced more affordably.</div><div><br /></div><div>Knowing Rob was going to get sturgeon roe, I wanted to bring something different and so I turned to the Portland Maine-based supplier to my restaurant, Browne Trading Company. I got a tin each of American Paddlefish and Sea Trout caviar, both of which we used at the restaurant in addition to sturgeon.</div><div><br /></div><div>Native to the Mississippi River basin, American Paddlefish is a threatened species that is now farmed, like White Sturgeon, for caviar. The Sea Trout caviar comes from Rainbow Trout farmed in the ocean off Denmark. The appeal of the Sea Trout caviar, besides its delightful salmon color, is its unique texture. Each egg pops when you eat it to release a delightful, but decidedly non-fishy, flavor. If you have ever balked at salmon caviar because of its fishiness, trout caviar will be a revelation.</div><div><br /></div><div>In addition to our not having seen Rob and Dyce in more than a month, we have also missed seeing their kids Reilly and Lola, who wasted no time in greeting us at the door and keeping us company throughout the evening.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEP6Nvf5DPvBq1J2BhYNTGGa60vfkn3GIWSfG4aThvx27yRlW0lFKLgblBy5ML1f_JqLMkCIuITT5ud5BNgtxYuCOzKULWy8Uz6F1OjMDiV7XnKD7n5D_1c71S0RrHO8jtjsfOUcrNRTI2PfTyc9l3AZA8KKwayYZHZ3iK6tA24WXS404hbPtNh0yf9Kr/s3170/IMG_1510.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEP6Nvf5DPvBq1J2BhYNTGGa60vfkn3GIWSfG4aThvx27yRlW0lFKLgblBy5ML1f_JqLMkCIuITT5ud5BNgtxYuCOzKULWy8Uz6F1OjMDiV7XnKD7n5D_1c71S0RrHO8jtjsfOUcrNRTI2PfTyc9l3AZA8KKwayYZHZ3iK6tA24WXS404hbPtNh0yf9Kr/w300-h400/IMG_1510.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Princess Reilly</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI6Dxong9RuxYUxCNQpoa-o4n3ekUHBSUjrR0E7oapfO0HP9cv1UjyxYP_XFqog5xBvoREKpM0y03ynzAEyYjl4ad68C-voyRrhY5NbPeFdXKLioZ7tSpyr3obKiSg1TA7qG6GjnjEWKvniG2LfSkPq3jiyqdSwt0GvBc30d4pcg31t7QDWWp3np5mA2JU/w300-h400/IMG_1512.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lola Wants Snacks</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm glad we finally got together to eat this caviar before it went bad. We're already talking about next New Year's Eve.</div></div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-12177893339540391772024-01-23T10:27:00.000-08:002024-01-23T10:27:42.384-08:00Pork and Potatoes<p>So Ann has this habit of picking up people wherever we happen to be, and if she likes them well enough, inviting them to dinner. Such was the case recently when we met Evan and Justin around the fire pit at our local pub while we were getting a couple beers after a movie two Fridays ago. Ann decided that they were coming to dinner along with Justin's fiancée and soon-to-be wife Maria, who was not in attendance around the fire.</p><p>Ann also decided that I was making pulled pork. To be fair, she did ask me to make pulled pork, but she knows that I will never refuse her requests if I can fulfill them. Besides, I am too happy to cook for anyone who is a good human and a good eater. I'm no longer in the restaurant business, so my tolerance for picky and high-maintenance eaters is nil, having had to cater to such people all my life. But for good people, I will gladly cook any time and any place.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk3xsDjqkrIFB-erN9ZQGftdUO1fNtp_pmXlZbpSZHut3BmfZg_X2b0rTM4g_EuL0wUbzfUUITNJvQ63xI6RHLhTYaeeXIirSNQIdqK-xHs3teQP4d7UkiytqwG8pHELGa85JvSDw_reDRba3e1wA9agzlqo9B-IhafDaNt9PIGgIbR4elQ4B-10dBzw_M/s3786/IMG_1499.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2840" data-original-width="3786" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk3xsDjqkrIFB-erN9ZQGftdUO1fNtp_pmXlZbpSZHut3BmfZg_X2b0rTM4g_EuL0wUbzfUUITNJvQ63xI6RHLhTYaeeXIirSNQIdqK-xHs3teQP4d7UkiytqwG8pHELGa85JvSDw_reDRba3e1wA9agzlqo9B-IhafDaNt9PIGgIbR4elQ4B-10dBzw_M/w400-h300/IMG_1499.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ann, Maria, Justin, and Evan<br />We Had a Great Night with Great People, Food, and Wine<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>I still approach dinners at home the way that I would at the restaurant. Even though we changed the menu every day at the restaurant, we would start the week off by sketching out where we wanted the menu to be by the weekend, and trying to pull as much of that prep forward into the earlier part of the week when we were not as insanely busy as on the weekend.<div><br /></div><div>Ditto for dinner at home. On the day of the dinner, I don't want to have spent the entire day prepping such that I am too tired to spend quality time with my guests. So when I sketch out a menu for a dinner, I try to spread the work out over multiple days. In this case, the menu was not very complicated so for the Saturday night dinner, I started with some small tasks on Friday.</div><div><br /></div><div>The menu was straightforward:</div><div><br /></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div>Whipped Goat Cheese with Puttanesca Topping</div><div>Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder</div><div>Scalloped Potatoes with 'Nduja</div><div>Green Salad with Pickled Shallots, Spiced Pecans, Pomegranate Seeds, and Pomegranate Vinaigrette</div></blockquote><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81FXw5x7mBYkQhTylwIJDhqk1fWabn7tJo7swuMqkUQrrsPtUS3exwTvD_nTpe6AWrDJF9rjovzhofcbTJHwVCFwo5DafoeP2zyB4dTiQDFF1qmJ_Zm3_LaHi3s7HdzLYc8ttJuV7ssNml8z-qslDNElw0iI_SiwOYRYW0PJIE0Pu-BGhRfHUC50-LZNe/s3747/IMG_1494.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2810" data-original-width="3747" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj81FXw5x7mBYkQhTylwIJDhqk1fWabn7tJo7swuMqkUQrrsPtUS3exwTvD_nTpe6AWrDJF9rjovzhofcbTJHwVCFwo5DafoeP2zyB4dTiQDFF1qmJ_Zm3_LaHi3s7HdzLYc8ttJuV7ssNml8z-qslDNElw0iI_SiwOYRYW0PJIE0Pu-BGhRfHUC50-LZNe/w400-h300/IMG_1494.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pulled Pork, 'Nduja Scalloped Potatoes, Green Salad</td></tr></tbody></table><div>The tasks that I could do ahead on Friday I did on Friday: making the dry rub for the pork, spicing the pecans, and making the puttanesca topping for the whipped goat cheese. I've covered my spice rub for pork ("Butt Rub") in detail before and you can <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2020/09/dry-rub-pork-butt-and-chicken.html" target="_blank">find a recipe here</a>. I pretty much followed the recipe except for when I tasted this batch of rub, I wanted both a bit more sugar and salt which I added.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2x-OTtZom2mGDz0TpYytBPI1Y9_rRLQKXj_rEJBdjI76DkUh7VNKNKnV6xqHOQzxlhVhCsT6R1P04GjRxqhLGAEtvkvErRj4NPBZ6bpb7SDnreEBvCg0DieyA3MV6309Rsyhw5woRM8k1GZyi4cliVDBPtUiH1TT-MyC6W1LnnN7DXDjgHZFqwFXgLCi/s3912/IMG_1467.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2934" data-original-width="3912" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ2x-OTtZom2mGDz0TpYytBPI1Y9_rRLQKXj_rEJBdjI76DkUh7VNKNKnV6xqHOQzxlhVhCsT6R1P04GjRxqhLGAEtvkvErRj4NPBZ6bpb7SDnreEBvCg0DieyA3MV6309Rsyhw5woRM8k1GZyi4cliVDBPtUiH1TT-MyC6W1LnnN7DXDjgHZFqwFXgLCi/w400-h300/IMG_1467.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Butt Rub" for the Pork Shoulders</td></tr></tbody></table>Spicing pecans is a useful technique and we used to make many pounds at a time at the restaurant as they were a key component in certain dishes, such as our Fall Salad, a mix of cubed roasted winter squash, cubed Asian pear, and Cajun-spiced pecans, all dressed in a vinaigrette made from local apple cider reduced 8-fold, and served molded in a ring mold with a flourish of just-cut micro-arugula on top. [<i>I sure miss the days when our growers would deliver living flats of microgreens to the restaurant, micros that we would clip seconds before they hit the plate.</i>]</div><div><br /></div><div>I used to toss the pecans in melted butter and then add some spice rub and mix them well to coat them with the spices. And that was good, but I noticed that when one of my line cooks prepped the pecans, they always tasted way better than mine. I watched her when she made the next batch and saw that she heated the pecans and butter together in a pan until the pecans were well-roasted before coating them in the spice mix and a generous pinch of additional salt. Even an old chef can learn new tricks.</div><div><br /></div><div>While at the restaurant we used our Cajun spice mix (aka "Magic Dust") to spice pecans, I wanted for this dinner to echo the same flavors in the pork, so I used the pork rub to spice the pecans. I have found that menus hang together better if you can echo some flavors throughout, but not so much as to be tiresome.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KlwMEHIhde6JXVdxQElcQks_Vd3IbyT9hc8QIhbH1lJ_P97ex7ObvLuKq6tGdmLXGW1gJ-6uLgKUpdLh2Qc9Dl4UOuOhODEU0MUbBiBhbBCoA4ssr7_8vWpLvvqUsicuud8TW5C2dNyP1Jvp7tlqCwDaHn78coY4QxKUCkSszINDO2JVdbCC7lFh_PfU/s2875/IMG_1471.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2156" data-original-width="2875" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1KlwMEHIhde6JXVdxQElcQks_Vd3IbyT9hc8QIhbH1lJ_P97ex7ObvLuKq6tGdmLXGW1gJ-6uLgKUpdLh2Qc9Dl4UOuOhODEU0MUbBiBhbBCoA4ssr7_8vWpLvvqUsicuud8TW5C2dNyP1Jvp7tlqCwDaHn78coY4QxKUCkSszINDO2JVdbCC7lFh_PfU/w400-h300/IMG_1471.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spicing Pecans: Cook Until the Pecans are Roasted</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxUx4dU5S-dHug5Us4WDa0HCWunvC_qMj2YbxvdnkHUb8w6a8NQRnE6Tr5Wsn3n6ulHb17i1vNOmdUzoru1O3HC_963M1AW2EE8uFeMzKebzxnUURwcfvhV-KfiMTFzqUYsHj0qp0q83IibIgSHTULJYbKp8rHaxHfTYAQtqzxSCpPh_qc0tLaNceFJHLV/s2832/IMG_1472.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2124" data-original-width="2832" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxUx4dU5S-dHug5Us4WDa0HCWunvC_qMj2YbxvdnkHUb8w6a8NQRnE6Tr5Wsn3n6ulHb17i1vNOmdUzoru1O3HC_963M1AW2EE8uFeMzKebzxnUURwcfvhV-KfiMTFzqUYsHj0qp0q83IibIgSHTULJYbKp8rHaxHfTYAQtqzxSCpPh_qc0tLaNceFJHLV/w400-h300/IMG_1472.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spicing Pecans: Tossing with Spice Mix and Salt</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">The next Friday task was to start in on the goat cheese that we would have for our pre-dinner appetizer course with sparkling wine. The idea for this appetizer was to whip some fresh goat cheese to a light, airy, and spreadable consistency and then to top it with a highly-flavored olive oil.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">But what to top the goat cheese mousse with? I wanted to be a bit creative. When I start thinking about creating dishes, I am often influenced by ingredients on hand, dishes that have appealed to me recently, or some other external input. In the restaurant, I would often, when in need of inspiration, walk into our well-stocked pantry (We stocked 15 different types of rice, for goodness sake!) where I would surf the shelves, seeking ideas.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">In the case of this appetizer, I have been thinking a lot recently about making a chili-garlic crunch as that has been all the rage in the last year or two, and for good reason. Moreover, I have been thinking about <i>spaghetti alla puttanesca</i> as those bold flavors really appeal to me.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And there you have it, this topping is the answer to the question everyone has been asking: What if chili-garlic crunch and pasta puttanesca had a baby?</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IRpQwlH2ImVlANzIP7PelCEZqmUG5R1zgLY2ClXBFivL6KEBuvTqEW80cpWJDYFsvsxbE3MEQwgnFRR02uPK_SzifIUFSbNeeYdP2n5K5pS-twk4XcjPAcUykXpt5Zu3ptit3ei_LkKLa0YH4ls-CX6OKBdeOtOdJLV7d7TNl1fBYOuXj9E4fpaxbpGV/s3137/IMG_1468.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2353" data-original-width="3137" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IRpQwlH2ImVlANzIP7PelCEZqmUG5R1zgLY2ClXBFivL6KEBuvTqEW80cpWJDYFsvsxbE3MEQwgnFRR02uPK_SzifIUFSbNeeYdP2n5K5pS-twk4XcjPAcUykXpt5Zu3ptit3ei_LkKLa0YH4ls-CX6OKBdeOtOdJLV7d7TNl1fBYOuXj9E4fpaxbpGV/w400-h300/IMG_1468.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chili-Garlic Crunch<br />Boiling Olive Oil Poured over Chile Flakes and Fresh Garlic</td></tr></tbody></table>I started by making a simple chile-garlic crunch. While heating a cup of olive oil on the stove, I put 7-8 cloves of minced garlic, a couple tablespoons of chile flakes, and a tablespoon of dried basil in a heat-proof bowl. When the oil got very hot, I poured it over the mixture, instantly frying it, and let it cool on the stovetop.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHlUk0XRT3VcEedF3w4py4il4WJ70wP0xOhSp305_XETk7AKtNuB3lSi0apot4R-8Ir4vO-UarMsALZW3JSDI3S_0VHbvpBODlrQPZZy5rG9ZE3UjthIVn9jKnqZajYkXTkZ33lQIa9H_Dhrf_PkZA9UJeft9ryL10459zIU5udo7ghyM6BXDl46s4M6c/s3454/IMG_1481.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2590" data-original-width="3454" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTHlUk0XRT3VcEedF3w4py4il4WJ70wP0xOhSp305_XETk7AKtNuB3lSi0apot4R-8Ir4vO-UarMsALZW3JSDI3S_0VHbvpBODlrQPZZy5rG9ZE3UjthIVn9jKnqZajYkXTkZ33lQIa9H_Dhrf_PkZA9UJeft9ryL10459zIU5udo7ghyM6BXDl46s4M6c/w400-h300/IMG_1481.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whipped Goat Cheese with Puttanesca Topping</td></tr></tbody></table><div>Once the oil cooled, in went the remaining ingredients: minced anchovy fillets, brined capers, oil-cured sun-dried tomatoes, and chopped green olives. Then Ann and I tasted the mix and adjusted it. The oil seemed too prominent, so I added some acidity in the form of first a touch of balsamic vinegar for sweetness and acidity, then a touch of red wine vinegar for straight-up acidity. A bit of salt helped round out the flavors (surprising to me that it needed salt because of the anchovies, capers, and olives).</div><div><br /></div><div>I left the mix on the counter overnight to macerate and for all the flavors to come together: it takes time for flavors to infuse into oil. The flavors were definitely better on Saturday morning than Friday afternoon. We left the whipping of the goat cheese to minutes before our guests arrived and one the mousse was spread on a plate and topped with the oil, I scattered on a large handful of chiffonaded fresh basil to lighten and freshen the appetizer.</div><div><br /></div><div>Slow-roasting 15 pounds of pork shoulder is an all-day affair. <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2023/05/new-friends-and-pulled-pork.html" target="_blank">A prior post outlines</a> my method in which I bring the roasts up to 165F, wrap them, and return them to a very slow oven to bring them up to a final temperature of 195-200F. Despite it being an all-day affair, I couldn't bring myself to get in the kitchen until after my morning coffee, so I did not get the two shoulders into the oven until just after 9am. Accordingly, they were not ready until roughly 7:00pm.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYdM_j3dTBXDbgxmfeTB6pSbDW-c-VfvkfyUN9afMPgdhNuRByU7LdXs70OWcogvZOxNxa8m1L3_y4qRzxi3MN13E2LHIi0QZFANYJb9OFVvIU4yk9-bDTgnC8UunhP1HdCkvYZcKnXa-wcrdqvPKIkpkrFVGPsarhqIAGorB71i90h3d0vpiIi44M3lH/s3639/IMG_1469.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2729" data-original-width="3639" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYdM_j3dTBXDbgxmfeTB6pSbDW-c-VfvkfyUN9afMPgdhNuRByU7LdXs70OWcogvZOxNxa8m1L3_y4qRzxi3MN13E2LHIi0QZFANYJb9OFVvIU4yk9-bDTgnC8UunhP1HdCkvYZcKnXa-wcrdqvPKIkpkrFVGPsarhqIAGorB71i90h3d0vpiIi44M3lH/w400-h300/IMG_1469.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spice-Rubbed Pork Shoulders Ready for Oven (or Smoker)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH-eA-QP7_enq4TR9UXpCHpaMRCRG3Gz0z8waBho-h2g2ngLkOHgl38zoVfpUltdDRBX6eGg8VBAqZ4Eq0-FhYNguk1xS3yBnkIEdpxe4SFF-kX6lK2WyjUGko9aSH7IJrvj4NzPSR4IQHXCgKTKmQiROVyn237VxWYNRYLpSgoZsSuKa8YIlrGXFoqCdI/s3323/IMG_1473.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2492" data-original-width="3323" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH-eA-QP7_enq4TR9UXpCHpaMRCRG3Gz0z8waBho-h2g2ngLkOHgl38zoVfpUltdDRBX6eGg8VBAqZ4Eq0-FhYNguk1xS3yBnkIEdpxe4SFF-kX6lK2WyjUGko9aSH7IJrvj4NzPSR4IQHXCgKTKmQiROVyn237VxWYNRYLpSgoZsSuKa8YIlrGXFoqCdI/w400-h300/IMG_1473.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Shoulders at 165F, Ready to be Wrapped and Put Back in Oven</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_D1_qXZKzGJy5QHGghRSjK04IUhin1L8Y57Fhm2IyFjD-S_aOModW8CRxZhF2ArR4slU8E_uK7q6ty8PP7hBOl0T2aGenKnomusfNB7tY0seT84_KPosQAk4-YitWGZ_-_-YuiIZJtVjQlM3R8qHMdqnzt3a4vNKe6dLrE3mmafJh1mZmApG5OdGnSoVc/s3661/IMG_1485.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2746" data-original-width="3661" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_D1_qXZKzGJy5QHGghRSjK04IUhin1L8Y57Fhm2IyFjD-S_aOModW8CRxZhF2ArR4slU8E_uK7q6ty8PP7hBOl0T2aGenKnomusfNB7tY0seT84_KPosQAk4-YitWGZ_-_-YuiIZJtVjQlM3R8qHMdqnzt3a4vNKe6dLrE3mmafJh1mZmApG5OdGnSoVc/w400-h300/IMG_1485.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fall-Apart Tender Pork Pulled Using Tongs</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">To go with the pulled pork, I had the idea to do scalloped potatoes with thyme and '<i>nduja</i>, the Calabrese spreadable salame. I was hoping that the 'nduja would melt into the cream and I was not at all disappointed. I built the casserole by putting a layer of sliced raw yellow potatoes in an oiled gratin, then topping the layer with a sprinkle of salt, fresh thyme, little dots of 'nduja, and a drizzle of heavy cream, continuing in this fashion until the gratin was full. It baked for an hour, covered, in a moderate oven, and then uncovered for another half an hour or so until it browned on top.</div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCObpsU9R_w0Oi998b_h1APA9bLGt14P1TiV01Y7FW5SWiAJyrLT7Tx0Guomzdip4esNzf_S5OfOOjBi4s4sRRaW9GVuLMMkFuF8TxGwJroTTwIIFDtl8FMEmb_HxeX6Hc-elCdsi8p9EV34eLVHPwZgKVv7SG56CdWRa2kOg38ntVzum2pzqu1Or-4EBI/s4032/IMG_1474.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCObpsU9R_w0Oi998b_h1APA9bLGt14P1TiV01Y7FW5SWiAJyrLT7Tx0Guomzdip4esNzf_S5OfOOjBi4s4sRRaW9GVuLMMkFuF8TxGwJroTTwIIFDtl8FMEmb_HxeX6Hc-elCdsi8p9EV34eLVHPwZgKVv7SG56CdWRa2kOg38ntVzum2pzqu1Or-4EBI/w400-h300/IMG_1474.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Building the Potato Layers</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0wRiRZTxJHVwJ8uq0tUDEbvfh67XxjWeAtYU1wmKGVGp28Kp2nggCjOrP3Evfx45SNDeBms-6EPxS2W7ltVb9h8PkndH4gmwNMab7qQ4g6oIJOSj0yhwnIJz_jcEmsxnYZpNBfqLXNHgaQYbn_zX_cFzq-WC7Z0fTXJ08Wi3e8LGQEWBAWYx3bZGX3NuC/s3688/IMG_1483.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2766" data-original-width="3688" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0wRiRZTxJHVwJ8uq0tUDEbvfh67XxjWeAtYU1wmKGVGp28Kp2nggCjOrP3Evfx45SNDeBms-6EPxS2W7ltVb9h8PkndH4gmwNMab7qQ4g6oIJOSj0yhwnIJz_jcEmsxnYZpNBfqLXNHgaQYbn_zX_cFzq-WC7Z0fTXJ08Wi3e8LGQEWBAWYx3bZGX3NuC/w400-h300/IMG_1483.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Finished Potato-'Nduja Gratin</td></tr></tbody></table></div>To act as a foil for the rich pork and potatoes, I wanted a green salad with a relatively acidic dressing. I decided to put spiced pecans, pomegranate seeds, and pickled shallots in the salad and because the pomegranate was really ripe, I got a good bit of juice in the process of knocking the seeds out. That pomegranate juice would form the basis of the dressing when combined with whole-grain mustard, Sherry vinegar, agave nectar, and extra virgin olive oil, all buzzed together with the immersion blender.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9YfSnCRVCQZSMtykUhwPYJVe8dVARsDLWfLjhMxSMs0k8QwGtHnOcyNnnu65o1eZ6wL6wHJ6-QbNx08KXh4BXxIhm8QJKUjAvbGDaMdOje6juOu5i2UczfnobX9qiuiLmlzn8_Sz_zhXkIl9I27-Jf55gr9ABpKrBTru1UALIUO1oZ4DRkmQE5TXm_l26/s3574/IMG_1493.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2681" data-original-width="3574" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9YfSnCRVCQZSMtykUhwPYJVe8dVARsDLWfLjhMxSMs0k8QwGtHnOcyNnnu65o1eZ6wL6wHJ6-QbNx08KXh4BXxIhm8QJKUjAvbGDaMdOje6juOu5i2UczfnobX9qiuiLmlzn8_Sz_zhXkIl9I27-Jf55gr9ABpKrBTru1UALIUO1oZ4DRkmQE5TXm_l26/w400-h300/IMG_1493.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greens with Spiced Pecans, Pomegranate Seeds, Pickled Shallots,<br />and Pomegranate Vinaigrette</td></tr></tbody></table></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4z7_EitieJtICEU3bWJD4zRjseohWlXCRFhCTwtVBMjZhiXf5_gRKSquVN6MkTicIAyw-j0F-buH3CFJuEj1_nLYNR2UlDaywiMtOPR1YaEEF7be4l9EJ4jnq77mSHYdBqNgLKi5U9k4VDJ9VyMt0xeKWpJktG89tJoR0m1zhD9kbTHPBhVhZ9yEgA1U/s3432/IMG_1482.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2574" data-original-width="3432" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr4z7_EitieJtICEU3bWJD4zRjseohWlXCRFhCTwtVBMjZhiXf5_gRKSquVN6MkTicIAyw-j0F-buH3CFJuEj1_nLYNR2UlDaywiMtOPR1YaEEF7be4l9EJ4jnq77mSHYdBqNgLKi5U9k4VDJ9VyMt0xeKWpJktG89tJoR0m1zhD9kbTHPBhVhZ9yEgA1U/w400-h300/IMG_1482.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pickled Shallots Put up in December</td></tr></tbody></table>By the time the potatoes and pork came out of the oven, we had been talking and drinking wine for a good hour and perhaps 90 minutes. Everyone was ready to eat and it all turned out wonderfully. We continued the merriment well into the evening when someone, Ann I think, suggested opening a bottle of Port.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsaSdq5L-4WmZLGz-7d3DI3EkFpI-HENS7yFcjpMrLCmQZLiI85J1Txs3pLH8Oh5cLifV3DayCqHTxXWJFykZD91mn0tVf14SCQsUf7PKtI9o65Pjtcp21yXza0SvHvtHTa6IVhxQ6GSBqq-NSAaReaWVY14oAihg365mqW9PA8hUAQgmoMQn7_Kdmmh7C/s3581/IMG_1495.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3581" data-original-width="2686" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsaSdq5L-4WmZLGz-7d3DI3EkFpI-HENS7yFcjpMrLCmQZLiI85J1Txs3pLH8Oh5cLifV3DayCqHTxXWJFykZD91mn0tVf14SCQsUf7PKtI9o65Pjtcp21yXza0SvHvtHTa6IVhxQ6GSBqq-NSAaReaWVY14oAihg365mqW9PA8hUAQgmoMQn7_Kdmmh7C/w300-h400/IMG_1495.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1992 Quinta do Bomfin Port</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div>By the time the Port was opened and decanted, a lot of wine had been consumed and we had all got a hankering for something a little sweet to go with the Port, despite having gorged ourselves on pork and potatoes. I stood at the counter and assembled crackers topped with Cambazola cheese and fig compote, the remainder of the compote that we made at Christmas to give to our friends.</div><div><br /></div><div>This 375ml 1992 Quinta do Bomfim is fully ready to drink; the tannins have mellowed and the fruit on the wine is no longer improving. This is unlike the 750s of 1977 Warre's whose tannins are still rough and youthful. I can hardly believe the $16.95 price sticker on the bottle!</div></div><div><br /></div><div>It was a great night <i>chez nous</i> and I thank our lovely dinner guests for sharing in the merriment with us!</div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-41433579705283490492024-01-20T11:07:00.000-08:002024-01-20T11:07:03.845-08:00Lamb Stew<p>There's nothing really novel about lamb stew. At heart, it's quite a humble dish of lamb, vegetables, and gravy. But there is a vast difference between how professionals and home cooks approach this dish. And a vast difference in the finished dish as a result.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-kob5Jqq7yU9cegDZblW4vXex2djZVxgBpuTuza84_5g3xUhIbJvWlPaLYhcAazYp9Qu5AN4qP57IWnVAPauQ89_hAVROBkMyJOpuzJkKqJBric_kIjoFGep-JWgHaAfxYJBcJN9HqliDGmoeJVUp6RgfXBsAZdF7hH4sUwchClbR73g2JeihbNfSIs3M/s2657/IMG_1466.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1993" data-original-width="2657" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-kob5Jqq7yU9cegDZblW4vXex2djZVxgBpuTuza84_5g3xUhIbJvWlPaLYhcAazYp9Qu5AN4qP57IWnVAPauQ89_hAVROBkMyJOpuzJkKqJBric_kIjoFGep-JWgHaAfxYJBcJN9HqliDGmoeJVUp6RgfXBsAZdF7hH4sUwchClbR73g2JeihbNfSIs3M/w400-h300/IMG_1466.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carefully Constructed Lamb Stew</td></tr></tbody></table>At home, one often cooks all the stew ingredients together, meat and vegetables until done and then thickens (or highly reduces) the cooking liquid. The vegetables will likely go all at once into the pot once the meat is cooked to avoid overcooking them.<p>On the other hand, at a high-end restaurant, each ingredient will be pre-cooked just to the point of doneness, combined with a meticulously-made gravy when the dish is ordered, and reheated before service. In this way, each of the constituent ingredients is cooked perfectly with nothing overcooked.</p><p>Here's a sketch of how I made this batch of lamb stew which is pretty much identical to how we would have made it at the restaurant, if we could have sold something as pedestrian as stew. Fine dining customers, especially those for whom such a meal is an unusual splurge, usually want to order something "luxurious" that they can brag about to their friends: steak, lobster, foie gras, etc.</p><p>This tendency makes it really hard to sell something such as a stew, which you must do if you are running a nose-to-tail restaurant like ours that was based on whole animal butchery. Selling the non-glamorous parts of the animal at such a restaurant involves a precise combination of wording on the menu and pricing ("menu engineering"), but that is a topic that would require an entire chapter in a foodservice textbook. It is a topic in which I am highly versed but which is way beyond the scope of this, or any, blogpost. If you're a chef reading this and need help, I do consult.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Step 1: Make a Great Stock</h3><p>To make the stock, I had been saving scraps of meat and bones over the last few days. This stock was made from lamb trimmings, steak trimmings, the backbones from <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/spatchcocked-game-hen-with-bacon.html" target="_blank">spatchcocking game hens</a>, the bones leftover from the roast game hens, and a few chunks of pork neckbones.</p><p>To start, toss the bones and some aromatic vegetables (carrots, celery, onions in chunks) with oil and roast in a hot oven (400-450), turning as necessary, until the bones and vegetables are really well browned. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqoOMi8W0T_7fHSMw6KE3P5KaCibnkVvbvmuqA7IRg6wCK0ijmpIu09mc0C9_MomNi4TrBoxRVsVVpgA-BRSL4_-LvE7iG_2fObtME3Jupq0Kub7HWtvdm1OcgLfbUXxMp5wvh3I0YgS7aluqfXP1GZOEppE-T5TxSzgPFHfLm4p33EtPkgdSctebstSOq/s3792/IMG_1460.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3792" data-original-width="2844" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqoOMi8W0T_7fHSMw6KE3P5KaCibnkVvbvmuqA7IRg6wCK0ijmpIu09mc0C9_MomNi4TrBoxRVsVVpgA-BRSL4_-LvE7iG_2fObtME3Jupq0Kub7HWtvdm1OcgLfbUXxMp5wvh3I0YgS7aluqfXP1GZOEppE-T5TxSzgPFHfLm4p33EtPkgdSctebstSOq/w300-h400/IMG_1460.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stock Bones Before Roasting</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAnSodZJLrCNCs75cnUEQH6NQd8GPzV0KQNeq_8vb0lZvXo7CEb9H8w3ZXUO0xTJi71MlEfUnogvqZNociBjUIJnfoXzCSEqVg6RfHn57kYVND8GUMrL6bd6QNcpASkaGH-UVcVZOJn9yDxw9TImfUDUMOy9NAL3ffc_y6GhB1eFqUQnYIcx75M3Yy6Fv/s3770/IMG_1461.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3770" data-original-width="2828" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAnSodZJLrCNCs75cnUEQH6NQd8GPzV0KQNeq_8vb0lZvXo7CEb9H8w3ZXUO0xTJi71MlEfUnogvqZNociBjUIJnfoXzCSEqVg6RfHn57kYVND8GUMrL6bd6QNcpASkaGH-UVcVZOJn9yDxw9TImfUDUMOy9NAL3ffc_y6GhB1eFqUQnYIcx75M3Yy6Fv/w300-h400/IMG_1461.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Well-Caramelized Bones After Roasting</td></tr></tbody></table>Once the bones were roasted (about 45 minutes with four turns at about 400F), I removed them to the stock pot, covered them with water, and then poured very hot water onto the sheet tray and scraped up all the brown bits (what we call in chef-ese the <i>fond </i>or "bottom" in French). I then poured the water and brown bits into the stock pot so as not to lose any flavor.<div><br /></div><div>If I were making a super-fancy stock, I would pour lamb stock over the bones instead of water, which would be called a double-stock. I often make chicken soup by cooking raw chicken in chicken stock, yielding a double stock just to get a more intense chicken flavor, our poultry in the US largely being bland.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once the bones and liquid are in the stock pot, I added other flavorings such as leek leaves, onion peels, parsley stems, a sprig of rosemary, and a couple sprigs of thyme. These items add depth of flavor; the onion peels also add brown color and they were used as a dye in olden days. I often collect these bits in a bag in the freezer to add to my stocks.</div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Step 2: Prepare Each Ingredient Separately</h3><div><br /></div><div>Once the stock had cooked slowly for about 4-5 hours, I removed it from the heat, strained out the solids, and returned the stock to the stockpot. While the stock was coming back to a light boil, I cut into bite-sized cubes the remainder of a lamb shoulder that I had roasted to medium rare.</div><div><br /></div><div>I then cut a couple yellow potatoes and a couple large carrots into the same size pieces as the lamb and poached first the potatoes and then the carrots in the stock until they were done. Then I put a bag of frozen pearl onions into the stock to cook. I am not ashamed to admit that I use frozen pearl onions; the labor and cost savings in using them is immense.</div><div><br /></div><div>At the restaurant, we would have focused on using baby vegetables rather than cut ones, just to up the wow factor of the dish. I would have asked my growers to harvest tiny carrots and new potatoes and my crew and I would have probably stood around and peeled small shallots in place of the pearl onions.</div><div><br /></div><div>It's likely we might have used baby hakurei turnips and tiny chanterelle mushrooms as well, in the appropriate seasons. All these ingredients and all this work would yield what we call in chef-ese a very <i>soigné </i>("carefully prepared" in French) dish, but man, that's too much expense and labor for home cooking!<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFcmJD7hilGcgWq4MOTwpcoaKzxwFA7LBOuvOisdNbuD-CHz_QgXM_9spNKIx5yDcO_ucMIfO99gMZlr_hVhvg2nlcSERBBWUkZk-zmS61isrERlkw9UCN-lD8ya5pWyy1DnVFPytfnwYdtIf21_sFyE2YsYvMIg5M7vlXn0qysFXj8DNMWqqXj0NN5cab/s3344/IMG_1462.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2508" data-original-width="3344" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFcmJD7hilGcgWq4MOTwpcoaKzxwFA7LBOuvOisdNbuD-CHz_QgXM_9spNKIx5yDcO_ucMIfO99gMZlr_hVhvg2nlcSERBBWUkZk-zmS61isrERlkw9UCN-lD8ya5pWyy1DnVFPytfnwYdtIf21_sFyE2YsYvMIg5M7vlXn0qysFXj8DNMWqqXj0NN5cab/w400-h300/IMG_1462.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid-Stream in Cooking Each Ingredient Separately</td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: left;">Step 3: Finish the Gravy and Reheat the Stew</h3></div><div><br /></div><div>Once all the vegetables were cooked in the stock (and thereby lent their flavors to the stock), I then continued to reduce the original gallon and a half (six quarts, roughly 5.5 liters) down to the final volume of gravy that I wanted, concentrating the flavors. I then seasoned the stock with salt and white pepper to taste. You really don't want to season a stock before it is reduced because you'll end up concentrating the seasoning and will end up with an oversalted stock.</div><div><br /></div><div>A professional hint that I have passed on to many, many young cooks: if your highly reduced stock tastes flat, add a drop or two of vinegar (I like sherry vinegar for this) and see how that helps. Highly reduced stocks are likely to be flat and bland because of the highly concentrated amount of gelatin that they contain. Acid will bring new life to such a stock.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once I seasoned my stock to my taste, I made a batch of <i>beurre manié</i>, roughly equal parts flour and room temperature butter kneaded into a paste. Kneading the flour and the butter creates a great sauce thickener that you can whisk into a stock, eliminating any worry of lumps in your sauce.</div><div><br /></div><div>I added small lumps of beurre manié to my simmering sauce, whisking it in, until the gravy was as thick as I wanted. A decent rule of thumb is that one tablespoon of flour and one tablespoon of butter will thicken one cup of liquid to a heavy cream consistency.</div><div><br /></div><div>A lot of chefs will skip the beurre manié altogether, opting to sauce their meat and vegetables with a glace or demi-glace, both highly concentrated and very thick stocks. I find these sauces to be too thick and too sticky for my liking, but that's just me. YMMV: your mileage may vary.</div><div><br /></div><div>All that is left is to combine the stew ingredients with the gravy and reheat. You can do this in any fashion; this time, I put everything into a casserole and reheated it in the oven. At the restaurant, we would have assembled an individual portion up on the range top and then put the hot stew in an oven-proof serving dish into a very hot oven for five minutes or so before calling for a runner to take it to the dining room. [<i>More than likely, we would have covered it with a sheet of puff pastry and baked it until the pastry was golden and risen</i>.]</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNiN7ZMEMSDBG0QFZtG6CBtcr7OPjakXe0J6OIpqSVNkscOhEFGosAcyfAcSVL2TyiLdNjIbMCzL8ywMegDyep-OWQoleq3CLlWVDbHKp-QuoRKB7uZb5v8FcvL_NhTy0H22yMQWg63MbDV9mzwUgJaSmZa63OrcqY94ZkmnFstX8LA9GAxI5RFwxJsAn/s2712/IMG_1463.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2034" data-original-width="2712" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNiN7ZMEMSDBG0QFZtG6CBtcr7OPjakXe0J6OIpqSVNkscOhEFGosAcyfAcSVL2TyiLdNjIbMCzL8ywMegDyep-OWQoleq3CLlWVDbHKp-QuoRKB7uZb5v8FcvL_NhTy0H22yMQWg63MbDV9mzwUgJaSmZa63OrcqY94ZkmnFstX8LA9GAxI5RFwxJsAn/w400-h300/IMG_1463.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lamb Stew, Ready to Serve</td></tr></tbody></table>These are a few hints on how a professional chef might approach a humble stew with an eye to elevating it slightly. There's nothing difficult about this method, but it does involve a significant amount of time to do. If you have time to do this, it will elevate your stew game. If not, at least you may better appreciate all the pains to which chefs go to assemble even the most humble of dishes for you.</div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-55683257541147357582024-01-17T16:27:00.000-08:002024-01-19T12:44:02.430-08:00Storm Day<p>We've been staring down the barrel of a winter storm warning for a few days, a warning on the books ever since the prior storm dumped on us on earlier in the week. This weekend was predicted to be extremely cold with a lot of snow. And oddly enough, the forecasters got it largely correct. Saturday the 13th, the snow really started ripping just before dawn and continued for the next 24 hours, a big, big powder day with plenty of wind and arctic temperatures.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ00wzFDqBpu2Z0T1BAP4-oYQTpx7xufxwhvXJl0ADbeDXbxAalPZabbQ6AOusJFlvq1ADiAQhUeaWb7PgoYkA9CgvzcXsIZgTDy3ysKCUaJh8MczsPnlqOzh5dSxqZoLqJFcuUKNqkQSL3KhatMVTju_s6YQfnOqFlDIccWeS_vEU7YAIoFiTOMC4rAVi/s4032/IMG_1439.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ00wzFDqBpu2Z0T1BAP4-oYQTpx7xufxwhvXJl0ADbeDXbxAalPZabbQ6AOusJFlvq1ADiAQhUeaWb7PgoYkA9CgvzcXsIZgTDy3ysKCUaJh8MczsPnlqOzh5dSxqZoLqJFcuUKNqkQSL3KhatMVTju_s6YQfnOqFlDIccWeS_vEU7YAIoFiTOMC4rAVi/w400-h300/IMG_1439.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm Progression, Saturday 10:30</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIV0ExkwDhQFsXsyhvAmnwhfUlxuMg5uPwnr4aOEX6adRGNNkCcgDowfmxM69D2J-UXeSkLaydhVHWxIyOqpYaaWMrdbTvfUwrLTW4MWdNdGqm4xJ7wjmAVohXC3Oz66MZvoqx4xUUda9WU38f8nmaeB5ETgUsGWioQ7WLJ_HB5bjAv1wVmUnwBXUMXmKA/s4032/IMG_1446.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIV0ExkwDhQFsXsyhvAmnwhfUlxuMg5uPwnr4aOEX6adRGNNkCcgDowfmxM69D2J-UXeSkLaydhVHWxIyOqpYaaWMrdbTvfUwrLTW4MWdNdGqm4xJ7wjmAVohXC3Oz66MZvoqx4xUUda9WU38f8nmaeB5ETgUsGWioQ7WLJ_HB5bjAv1wVmUnwBXUMXmKA/w400-h300/IMG_1446.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm Progression, Saturday 16:00</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OapL0H_r-G2o84ACpKiVA5izDszi2csK_9JCzXBzMqUJ5Ig6nQ9IXz9ms-lwWpBT_dxjlv5RyOzKpWkLDMwVzcPWdtzK0aH5PfJfn980yXFSPQIStWYW8e_-OTDrJ_fnRmBrOV__AdmexmPni3PZXEinfQUjKVVqUYsbwLRJWSKaC0wmTaCG3gIkdwEO/s3901/IMG_1454.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2926" data-original-width="3901" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OapL0H_r-G2o84ACpKiVA5izDszi2csK_9JCzXBzMqUJ5Ig6nQ9IXz9ms-lwWpBT_dxjlv5RyOzKpWkLDMwVzcPWdtzK0aH5PfJfn980yXFSPQIStWYW8e_-OTDrJ_fnRmBrOV__AdmexmPni3PZXEinfQUjKVVqUYsbwLRJWSKaC0wmTaCG3gIkdwEO/w400-h300/IMG_1454.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm Progression, Sunday 07:45</td></tr></tbody></table>All in all, it was just a day to hole up inside and let the storm rage while we sat under blankets by the fire, made some great food, and watched a little playoff football. My short perusal of social media led me to believe that pretty much the entire town was holed up at home as well. I don't believe that even the Mt. Bachelor ski resort was open in the face of this storm. I saw some pretty gnarly footage of the chairlifts iced up and swinging wildly in the wind.<div><br /></div><div>As nice as sitting bundled up by the fire sounds, the day was punctuated by my shoveling the walk and the driveway three times, dawn, noon, and dusk, and really getting cold. Worse, all this shoveling really exacerbated my hurt back to the point where I can barely walk now, days later as I type this. I'm now in about day 10 of a big flare-up. No fun this feeling of being sliced unanesthetized with a flaming knife.</div><div><p>The temperatures Saturday ranged from a high of 1F at dawn to a low of -7F just after sunset and I could only be outside for a few minutes before the pads of my fingers went from stinging cold to numb and insensate, despite my gloves.</p><p>I was wearing my US Army combat gloves, the heaviest ones I own that still allow my fingers some mobility and still, ten minutes of shoveling was all I could take before coming in to warm up. For weather like this, I really needed my thin merino base-layer gloves with some big overmitts, but how to shovel with this set-up?</p>After the first shoveling expedition of the morning and a couple cups of delightful coffee, the first inside order of business was to get something delicious cooking for dinner. Fortunately, I had the foresight the night before to put a couple of pounds of Great Northern beans on to soak. In the winter, I always try to keep the pantry stocked with dried beans, just for times like this storm day.<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXqxQUgMYM1h9MyBOa5M5uRdzVhDzGL4uvGVkBOIhqpXb2uHDU3aONIqynIabONK96kyWfg9tNUGo2Pj5YExU1gkbuZo1isv_3nRedHS89KwerIKqVEf_cok6QNLovDFIr_FScx78mLEWuIMFLL01Oz_rZ2XNW_JFciwznoMUlUEJE8ZWLvYjCS4DGPHIZ/s3811/IMG_1438.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2858" data-original-width="3811" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXqxQUgMYM1h9MyBOa5M5uRdzVhDzGL4uvGVkBOIhqpXb2uHDU3aONIqynIabONK96kyWfg9tNUGo2Pj5YExU1gkbuZo1isv_3nRedHS89KwerIKqVEf_cok6QNLovDFIr_FScx78mLEWuIMFLL01Oz_rZ2XNW_JFciwznoMUlUEJE8ZWLvYjCS4DGPHIZ/w400-h300/IMG_1438.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Chicken Chili About to Start in the Slow Cooker</td></tr></tbody></table>Ann had mentioned wanting white chicken chili the day before (hence my soaking the beans) and I happened to have a big tray of chicken thighs that I was going to roast. I repurposed four of those chicken thighs for the chili, leaving the other six for roasting later in the week.</div><div><br /></div><div>My idea of white chicken chili is white beans, onions, green chiles, cilantro, and garlic, all put in the slow cooker early in the morning and ready to eat by dinner when the chicken falls off the bone into the creamy beans.</div><div><br /></div><div>In this case, instead of the yellow onions that I normally use, I had a large leek and half a bunch of green onions that had no other purpose, so into the pot they went. And I remembered that Dyce had given us a pint of New Mexico green chile, so that went in as well, with only half as many poblanos as I would normally use. Those New Mexican chiles had a bit of a sting to them!</div><div><br /></div><div>A few hours later after smelling the beans and chicken starting to cook, Ann and I got pretty darned hungry, so around noon, it was Mission: Lunch. For New Year's Eve, we had planned a really impressive latke board to take to Dyce and Rob's to celebrate the New Year. I had prepped almost everything necessary for the board before the night got called off on account of illness, so we had lots of components already made in the refrigerator heading into this storm weekend.</div><div><br /></div><div>These items really needed to be consumed before they went bad, so we set about eating them (but still holding onto the caviar in hopes that we can still share it with the guys in the next week.) Ann proposed for brunch that I do something using the smoked salmon that I had brought in from Scotland for New Years and using the loaf of bread that we had slated for another dinner that got axed for illness.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSKiA1QbKmwaUzmyfoogdANP1a3Vjz4LerH-cgU9ufPiIfWqecNV_rZ4hfzEYT4D_v6Irmpfuu1ojrJkcjk2U3Ux5kKy_HuPZuBMEK5wLqrPrsPCkk7kWyOoIHa7kdX64emEAB8DM20Hi6Yze64WtUtK-JD5-GFb4wMToSGSNJ6VGOA4rEprtHXrn_5hh/s3759/IMG_1441.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2819" data-original-width="3759" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikSKiA1QbKmwaUzmyfoogdANP1a3Vjz4LerH-cgU9ufPiIfWqecNV_rZ4hfzEYT4D_v6Irmpfuu1ojrJkcjk2U3Ux5kKy_HuPZuBMEK5wLqrPrsPCkk7kWyOoIHa7kdX64emEAB8DM20Hi6Yze64WtUtK-JD5-GFb4wMToSGSNJ6VGOA4rEprtHXrn_5hh/w400-h300/IMG_1441.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoked Salmon Smørrebrød </td></tr></tbody></table>Given that I had already prepared two great schmears for our latke board, a smoked salmon mousse and an egg mousse, I set out to make smoked salmon <i>smørrebrød</i>. Smørrebrød are wonderful and beautiful Danish open-faced sandwiches that started as butter on bread, but have evolved into a thing, now fully part and parcel of Danish culture.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9lrntRHtNfpU9Ds8Ure4SYsXBrl3-Isj0gTwyCLn5iOgbgMFZzfvIlPTOq6qmhZ2r4gFCL6F6rfS9Wh8lNeALO5qAyDL96nHGOS5SCgCCeoQ78NB8JbRolPo-s1Cup3oKjT3W1XluODWqayUFZgIV3MzfuTVFFP6BVd9974VO_bnB4t294OvfX7BiVi3J/s3399/IMG_1442.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2549" data-original-width="3399" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9lrntRHtNfpU9Ds8Ure4SYsXBrl3-Isj0gTwyCLn5iOgbgMFZzfvIlPTOq6qmhZ2r4gFCL6F6rfS9Wh8lNeALO5qAyDL96nHGOS5SCgCCeoQ78NB8JbRolPo-s1Cup3oKjT3W1XluODWqayUFZgIV3MzfuTVFFP6BVd9974VO_bnB4t294OvfX7BiVi3J/w400-h300/IMG_1442.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The smørrebrød that I made for our lunch consist of smoked salmon mousse, smoked salmon, egg mousse, cornichons, and dill. The smoked salmon mousse is cream cheese, dill, minced capers, and locally hot-smoked salmon. The egg mousse is soft-cooked egg yolks, mayonnaise, dill, minced cornichons, minced capers, salt, and a touch of pimentón for a smoky <i>je ne sais quo</i>i.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZkq14muvxPQaVWlMiOEAfCeiwD1FtDfFQitdo20qrJ1WX9wyT0dBP6jxPcU3AnMZbEiinKz-Ym_AazZBplHiNtKsUlegfKUU6eRyjtuL_9ZJrJVg9eaxod7a2RPgrljn-AoA8lJXtzKMW24pBc_lUCzY_X7JqbReswsHs6SxPnnfLO8c2Pi8_m_RuVo-/s3355/IMG_1444.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3355" data-original-width="2516" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlZkq14muvxPQaVWlMiOEAfCeiwD1FtDfFQitdo20qrJ1WX9wyT0dBP6jxPcU3AnMZbEiinKz-Ym_AazZBplHiNtKsUlegfKUU6eRyjtuL_9ZJrJVg9eaxod7a2RPgrljn-AoA8lJXtzKMW24pBc_lUCzY_X7JqbReswsHs6SxPnnfLO8c2Pi8_m_RuVo-/w300-h400/IMG_1444.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chardonnay by the Fire</td></tr></tbody></table>While I was busy assembling the smørrebrød, Ann opened a bottle of wine, a Walter Scott Chardonnay. I wasn't really paying attention or even thinking too much (the pain from my back taking center stage) or I might have warned her off Chard to go with our smørrebrød. Even though Willamette Valley Chardonnay is relatively lightly oaked, oak still clashes mightily with fishy fish and smoked salmon is fishy fish. Oak makes the fish even fishier to the point where it's not fun.</div><div><br /></div><div>While Ann offered to open something different (a sparkling wine would have been excellent), the solution was simple. Eat first, drink after.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>At dusk after shoveling the walk and driveway (this really was snowblower snow) while watching the snowmobiles zip up and down the street, I came in to find that Ann had made us a cocktail to sip while we watched the AFC playoff game. Using the new high-end cocktail set that I gave her for Christmas, Ann mixed cocktails of mezcal, tequila, Ancho Reyes, agave, and lime and served them in a coupe rimmed with smoked salt. This was her best effort yet in that the acid balance was perfect.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhW609Bl91W2nmvq3sQyymiEzOU0oAmOw31xh_aO2SsQSZuPj05sY_1rfnN-nBZvOOxyGHEcZ6Gm88Mrl9vql2a4-GJ7aS6HZcnXJJitpOb5gvFBc8QHf71MLIuk8rXyp2g4bsXvFF2s9a1fkX48IgIoeCnNkvN2kLNmCJyEI4vN5-Wx29nfYNUU3QXVtD/s3705/IMG_1447.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3705" data-original-width="2779" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhW609Bl91W2nmvq3sQyymiEzOU0oAmOw31xh_aO2SsQSZuPj05sY_1rfnN-nBZvOOxyGHEcZ6Gm88Mrl9vql2a4-GJ7aS6HZcnXJJitpOb5gvFBc8QHf71MLIuk8rXyp2g4bsXvFF2s9a1fkX48IgIoeCnNkvN2kLNmCJyEI4vN5-Wx29nfYNUU3QXVtD/w300-h400/IMG_1447.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ann's Mezcal Cocktail</td></tr></tbody></table><div>We don't watch a lot of football because we cut the cord a long time ago and are not willing to pay for the right to watch games. Also, we can take football or leave it. This is the first time that I can remember that a game has been live-streamed on an outlet that we get. From the get-go, the Chiefs crushed the Dolphins to move on to the divisional round of eight.</div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTVh6IHxIpxIZJgdKvXrw6z8sMpJ1FaimVCi393SnpURkAP1R6aKs5G6ZwyNUzBHCPhMH_YzgdL2NdYE1zOxBeo24dX27oJ-RVxjsHWzQ55r5ny2Xzel5C9dn3IugghVwFHwrdLg94fTsf0ppM1omN9XbKTWEa7xJFQZr-Z6xqCKePNmXJnK06KXQMiUe/s1413/IMG_1449.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1413" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZTVh6IHxIpxIZJgdKvXrw6z8sMpJ1FaimVCi393SnpURkAP1R6aKs5G6ZwyNUzBHCPhMH_YzgdL2NdYE1zOxBeo24dX27oJ-RVxjsHWzQ55r5ny2Xzel5C9dn3IugghVwFHwrdLg94fTsf0ppM1omN9XbKTWEa7xJFQZr-Z6xqCKePNmXJnK06KXQMiUe/w400-h300/IMG_1449.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching Football on a Nasty Day</td></tr></tbody></table>The announcers, in the pre-game yammering, were making a big deal about the weather in Kansas City delivering one of the coldest game time temperatures in NFL history at -4F. For giggles, I checked our temperature here in Bend (on a day when our high was 1F): seven below. I know what the players were feeling; I had been shoveling in that weather all day.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAla0eapuddX78gr3uPYAQdCPEMTUOYIMhNUCSfRyd4DjercR6CvvHhNtH0nso6nMq0R4XNzbaC-w4GjCZKgoVzhnq_FoCs0hs4rokCvQtLJTtJXlS7RGNukyY9hYYPLAZO3AxgWhTvRT81jlBdWTVvnn_Aul0f4uPhpp8LX_zP4a_sJRGr-_dbOG3ngPP/s744/IMG_1452.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="558" data-original-width="744" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAla0eapuddX78gr3uPYAQdCPEMTUOYIMhNUCSfRyd4DjercR6CvvHhNtH0nso6nMq0R4XNzbaC-w4GjCZKgoVzhnq_FoCs0hs4rokCvQtLJTtJXlS7RGNukyY9hYYPLAZO3AxgWhTvRT81jlBdWTVvnn_Aul0f4uPhpp8LX_zP4a_sJRGr-_dbOG3ngPP/w400-h300/IMG_1452.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cold, Cold Evening</td></tr></tbody></table>As the game was nearing half-time, I served up white chicken chili from the slow cooker. It's hard to imagine a better dish than this on a very cold night. In fact, it was so cold that we opted to stay downstairs and watch the game by the fire, rather than go upstairs and watch it on the big TV. We keep it intentionally warmer downstairs where we spend the day and cooler upstairs where we sleep.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1o7yqeYMlgIk5pmN1w2kmU16X0z4YQtQrofg-DnbmhWxnb1VgRz4eN7Sgddr3EOZVHb2tHbxtFj1XW7eX8YXzHlMnjEb4ziupIFKuKCykv_qYSw01th7zrNThtzRxTxBmV8Xq6NYzBmuhxRXmXfqPf_87uxIG2jF9tjiTWTaWvU5tz68E4V9593GtlDXz/s3541/IMG_1451.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2656" data-original-width="3541" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1o7yqeYMlgIk5pmN1w2kmU16X0z4YQtQrofg-DnbmhWxnb1VgRz4eN7Sgddr3EOZVHb2tHbxtFj1XW7eX8YXzHlMnjEb4ziupIFKuKCykv_qYSw01th7zrNThtzRxTxBmV8Xq6NYzBmuhxRXmXfqPf_87uxIG2jF9tjiTWTaWvU5tz68E4V9593GtlDXz/w400-h300/IMG_1451.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Chicken Chili</td></tr></tbody></table>When we went to bed after the game and after some more TV, it was still snowing, but it was definitely not dumping as hard as it had earlier in the day. Overnight, we added another 4-5 inches to our total accumulation, necessitating another early morning shoveling in the frigid air. Fortunately, 24 hours after the storm hit, it was no longer snowing, a flurry or two here and there excepted.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>After coming in and warming my stiff fingers by the the fire, Ann and I enjoyed coffee by the fire and stayed near that fire all morning. If my back were not currently ripped to shreds, we would have been out snowshoeing through all the gorgeous new powder. It sucks to be sofa-bound after a big storm has just dumped oodles of fresh powder!</div><div><br /></div><div>Late morning, Ann asked me to make some eggs with the smoked salmon leftover from yesterday's smørrebrød. As I headed in to the kitchen to get started, I saw the partial loaf of bread also leftover and quickly a plan came to mind. I still had lots of both chives and dill leftover from our aborted attempt to make a latke board for New Years and I decided that the chives should go in the eggs and the dill into a savory French toast.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyALcad-RR8LWDQe6lJQBBO-eOOI1r8d_zz79Dd9ravnVwU89qk_qknZbxx20LcHp6Tw3CCQuY4s5ZwhLQJmMps_ukb-s9rrfeIRbOPIs9Oyw3Z8J5cerMULZxFsrnQF-WV4W4arSD1BL8WuxjxJQl6XWzdV96qY1Z_eL-8ZnaQmPZeSC27vmS3bsSyrxi/s2897/IMG_1455.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2173" data-original-width="2897" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyALcad-RR8LWDQe6lJQBBO-eOOI1r8d_zz79Dd9ravnVwU89qk_qknZbxx20LcHp6Tw3CCQuY4s5ZwhLQJmMps_ukb-s9rrfeIRbOPIs9Oyw3Z8J5cerMULZxFsrnQF-WV4W4arSD1BL8WuxjxJQl6XWzdV96qY1Z_eL-8ZnaQmPZeSC27vmS3bsSyrxi/w400-h300/IMG_1455.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eggs with Chives, Smoked Salmon, Savory Dill French Toast</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8cY3okex9oDGwM9DzbsiR0fpxIzMXFaWaKPSiQeFJimLRpXCOxiANoXvkbiBDqJIGzc6VuynRZSnYaCCDb05MohXYZIcg3k0QDRkrPybo1WNC_CIiXDZaphc-wR1j9e0gteN9yqx6TzxlMNbYEm3v9e9y2b73v0Vk9XjWZ1BxRIQweav81hrsCaNdPqZ/s2472/IMG_1457.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1854" data-original-width="2472" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd8cY3okex9oDGwM9DzbsiR0fpxIzMXFaWaKPSiQeFJimLRpXCOxiANoXvkbiBDqJIGzc6VuynRZSnYaCCDb05MohXYZIcg3k0QDRkrPybo1WNC_CIiXDZaphc-wR1j9e0gteN9yqx6TzxlMNbYEm3v9e9y2b73v0Vk9XjWZ1BxRIQweav81hrsCaNdPqZ/w400-h300/IMG_1457.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French Toast Almost Done</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgk7_AGf_Klq_vQoV-war1WL_P1UAjOEHrcyr8KdzLOtb0YQr0OyuWIBEcYmSzohPutLgHe6tgnXkhXchyphenhyphen6x0BoflYpxNqK2G4D81DkEXjwa03WjWiLvFoIOeDX2ImS34bPHmf3_q4XJ0eRL6fkmff2WN424X0asA41nf0rivVTO3mOrujbxYeAWoeBEE/s2897/IMG_1458.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2173" data-original-width="2897" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjgk7_AGf_Klq_vQoV-war1WL_P1UAjOEHrcyr8KdzLOtb0YQr0OyuWIBEcYmSzohPutLgHe6tgnXkhXchyphenhyphen6x0BoflYpxNqK2G4D81DkEXjwa03WjWiLvFoIOeDX2ImS34bPHmf3_q4XJ0eRL6fkmff2WN424X0asA41nf0rivVTO3mOrujbxYeAWoeBEE/w400-h300/IMG_1458.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dill French Toast Topped with Smoked Salmon and Chive Scrambled Eggs</td></tr></tbody></table>After all the powder had blown off the tree limbs, we had a freezing fog event that deposited stunning ice crystals on all the plants. Our front yard was a veritable winter wonderland and I leave you with these parting shots.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijYl80MhYnAZh_2siJKPJGny6ZmEwIn196ken_jAqcuESd3EZn4Ufvukv8L6CRr0WViF2kz5yfGrza6N83rEdXXoQQCE4awE7GvVt0vn-MEWamnxBu5KKH87xNJzzwE8mzP0P_FS5rk2efdwjTNhWpkkPnCWbNjKMgIfNWUiFvMj8ZkrFRvrm_NxXI41Ww/s6000/DSC06863.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijYl80MhYnAZh_2siJKPJGny6ZmEwIn196ken_jAqcuESd3EZn4Ufvukv8L6CRr0WViF2kz5yfGrza6N83rEdXXoQQCE4awE7GvVt0vn-MEWamnxBu5KKH87xNJzzwE8mzP0P_FS5rk2efdwjTNhWpkkPnCWbNjKMgIfNWUiFvMj8ZkrFRvrm_NxXI41Ww/w266-h400/DSC06863.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi19PvzcC1Jtvm7IRgvl9_h-PdAdH3bXqHOCsCKxZg-u8vcqxxQ7EQ0o4rjHtBsd-dNxA3RO51_0u_Q4xGTTo62VU_oMShEfx2nvnhL8xeE7Xpz1SE14VT5DQrpt7bZ5NKuZbe36rnY8irmvpSa0SuMBAXHH7u3O_i6bqt7FoHVHhiQPqr6xl-tOqOhFU0K/s6000/DSC06865.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi19PvzcC1Jtvm7IRgvl9_h-PdAdH3bXqHOCsCKxZg-u8vcqxxQ7EQ0o4rjHtBsd-dNxA3RO51_0u_Q4xGTTo62VU_oMShEfx2nvnhL8xeE7Xpz1SE14VT5DQrpt7bZ5NKuZbe36rnY8irmvpSa0SuMBAXHH7u3O_i6bqt7FoHVHhiQPqr6xl-tOqOhFU0K/w400-h266/DSC06865.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwEt0kSgzCZOw4InkicVQ8vUKK4QEkuySiBiCifVUwJ6DdySkje_wqFKmsA2JsvLnfqNS0dDFhXnNH6FUs1j8xWk8sTCY9EsShE4YJRiIIdWuM5nUeGpILGjatpTgKg8PHVRviXs5kTRwrI9OxSu984Oyq27n6rnjtwWmUIL9s2hBmGVfHGDksv3SCvVZL/s6000/DSC06866.jpg"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwEt0kSgzCZOw4InkicVQ8vUKK4QEkuySiBiCifVUwJ6DdySkje_wqFKmsA2JsvLnfqNS0dDFhXnNH6FUs1j8xWk8sTCY9EsShE4YJRiIIdWuM5nUeGpILGjatpTgKg8PHVRviXs5kTRwrI9OxSu984Oyq27n6rnjtwWmUIL9s2hBmGVfHGDksv3SCvVZL/w400-h266/DSC06866.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjar53qACA4lYH89Pnfjj13dHn6L3g3muGwBou3JNPTm4a6rQzMZ5Rqs9pNj2EPvAwp9_NZbw_zMY4a1lfp4b28M3gFN8T9DY20zX_Ut_BB3LDZcJ1zdoQqvinN0dMLXYmE49oek8Tr5B7g2TuAVBytjNiHcw9T0hJhZhDr_JnijEUlQjE14NOuTVblj4wR/s6000/DSC06867.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjar53qACA4lYH89Pnfjj13dHn6L3g3muGwBou3JNPTm4a6rQzMZ5Rqs9pNj2EPvAwp9_NZbw_zMY4a1lfp4b28M3gFN8T9DY20zX_Ut_BB3LDZcJ1zdoQqvinN0dMLXYmE49oek8Tr5B7g2TuAVBytjNiHcw9T0hJhZhDr_JnijEUlQjE14NOuTVblj4wR/w266-h400/DSC06867.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuTkv1yzPXGYqk5tE6sLIA2_galRx_lji3MrJ-JL4kX0HGVjIGx2TrAYEPGxBwPwHq9zNTSOGncfi5HV8AXZJRPNtnUZ_P5eEvJcKpp0h4-USdeNKwBgbYfEbbjELw25NNYeEBMMdnDU0ajNT1te75b0BVJ7Rk5sdg5qT5djZ52QkcNoqTlV6tIGMHTSf/s6000/DSC06868.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuTkv1yzPXGYqk5tE6sLIA2_galRx_lji3MrJ-JL4kX0HGVjIGx2TrAYEPGxBwPwHq9zNTSOGncfi5HV8AXZJRPNtnUZ_P5eEvJcKpp0h4-USdeNKwBgbYfEbbjELw25NNYeEBMMdnDU0ajNT1te75b0BVJ7Rk5sdg5qT5djZ52QkcNoqTlV6tIGMHTSf/w400-h266/DSC06868.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Now that we have all this spectacular snowshoeing-depth snow, if I could just get my back straightened out to the point where I could walk....</p></div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-62306854513752608702024-01-15T11:35:00.000-08:002024-01-15T11:35:07.579-08:00Spatchcocked Game Hen with Bacon-Roasted Brussels Sprouts<p>Ann has been talking about spatchcocking a chicken for many months, but I have been unable to find a small chicken, one of say 3 pounds. Spatchcocking is a cooking method in which you remove the backbone of a bird to flatten it out so that it cooks evenly. We used to do this all the time with quail at the restaurant. Spatchcocked birds lend themselves to cooking on a grill or in a pan as opposed to a whole fowl which wants to be roasted in the oven.</p><p>The importance of size for me when spatchcocking a bird is that the smaller ones seem to cook best using this method. As the birds get larger, it becomes harder to cook the thighs to done without overcooking the breast.</p><p>When I was a kid, the size of a broiler chicken was 3 to 3.5 pounds and a monster chicken, the one that my mom wanted to feed our family of five, was a four-pounder. They've slowly been creeping up in weight ever since to the point where a tiny bird is now four pounds, while most are over five pounds with some pushing five and a half.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-3tp7-FhGDVhV8FWVNyvx9nZYXnuQcJidDCOttoUbUEVDeQzyYxt_pTF_cAcad5kttsDodXbbDVTmwrtXXgM7SSBhQkXZ33HLTvwcefHmkLUe4a_FeHQZApQn-9oiC8saE7M2vGS3dPM9oT61Ynjsk07O7DTEiehG_YP-3madv2RG0AJR5omFUnhfONG/s2777/IMG_1435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2083" data-original-width="2777" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm-3tp7-FhGDVhV8FWVNyvx9nZYXnuQcJidDCOttoUbUEVDeQzyYxt_pTF_cAcad5kttsDodXbbDVTmwrtXXgM7SSBhQkXZ33HLTvwcefHmkLUe4a_FeHQZApQn-9oiC8saE7M2vGS3dPM9oT61Ynjsk07O7DTEiehG_YP-3madv2RG0AJR5omFUnhfONG/w400-h300/IMG_1435.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spatchcocked Game Hen with Bacon-Roasted Brussels Sprouts</td></tr></tbody></table>A few weeks back, I finally found my small chickens when I happened on Cornish game hens in the freezer case at the store. I did not know, but a quick conversation with the meat manager informed me, that they are a regularly stocked item for any time that I want to spatchcock a bird.<div><br /></div><div>Running about a pound and a half to perhaps two pounds, these small birds are nothing more than very young, 3- to 4-week old chickens. The Cornish part of the name comes from being a cross between the Cornish and White Plymouth Rock breeds, but the terms game and hen are misnomers. They're not game in that they are domestic chickens, nor are they hens in that both males and females alike are marketed under this label.</div><div><br /></div><div>To spatchcock a bird, lay it on your cutting board breast side down and remove the backbone. You could use a knife to remove the backbone by cutting closely along either side of it, but kitchen shears work so much better. {I save the backbones for stock.) After removing the backbone, flip the bird over skin-side up and give the center of the breast a good push with the heel of your hand. This should break the sternum (keel bone) and likely the wishbone as well, allowing the bird to lie flat.</div><div><br /></div><div>My cooking technique for game hens is a two-step process. First, I sprinkle the birds generously with salt, pepper, and dried thyme and then brown them on both sides, basting with hot oil from time to time. In this particular case, I browned the chickens in bacon fat left from cooking the bacon for the Brussels sprouts (see the bottom of this post). Second, I place the birds on a sheet tray in a moderate oven (say 350F) and roast them until the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165-170F. After this, the birds need to rest for 10 minutes before serving.</div><div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Y7rZTlUOY8whRvWYHbZ3MO62f9vYyVeYN3Xm2VEyKIl5ANS-7ArvYO9AalbsBlIysJnMMqQHGpeb6DwCeAHJ0u5XYiN61yAsWUSSwDN3_SZcGCCSsNAl-rAvbpTJUzqJOUXLvOsu74LIL6xHE6s7coSnrL0tmyEeFLA_Ic8Ha1kX7pBWb8eAROAnqkak/s2234/IMG_1432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1675" data-original-width="2234" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5Y7rZTlUOY8whRvWYHbZ3MO62f9vYyVeYN3Xm2VEyKIl5ANS-7ArvYO9AalbsBlIysJnMMqQHGpeb6DwCeAHJ0u5XYiN61yAsWUSSwDN3_SZcGCCSsNAl-rAvbpTJUzqJOUXLvOsu74LIL6xHE6s7coSnrL0tmyEeFLA_Ic8Ha1kX7pBWb8eAROAnqkak/w400-h300/IMG_1432.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Browning Spatchcocked Bird on the Stovetop</td></tr></tbody></table>While the birds are resting, I like to make a quick pan sauce for them by pouring off all the oil in the pan in which I browned them, leaving only the brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Then I will deglaze with water (really, water is fine) or chicken stock to make a really simple pan sauce to drizzle over the birds.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEQeZGKJ8QrPiIhKETbktSGzW6ve5jYSGyQGD3nmJQMB9V3NagfMrPMtd4Vko3PZev_F_LK3axpnSvrC9GieqiF12GPQs51yVgXKMSERlDKNClJYMVo22WgHyYRq0sZAPd_HNSKK6b09-xw2dG1w2-588OyTJOU9BY8lexPNrWYEhIMfcCAOW5qY6L5zM/s3661/IMG_1433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2746" data-original-width="3661" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnEQeZGKJ8QrPiIhKETbktSGzW6ve5jYSGyQGD3nmJQMB9V3NagfMrPMtd4Vko3PZev_F_LK3axpnSvrC9GieqiF12GPQs51yVgXKMSERlDKNClJYMVo22WgHyYRq0sZAPd_HNSKK6b09-xw2dG1w2-588OyTJOU9BY8lexPNrWYEhIMfcCAOW5qY6L5zM/w400-h300/IMG_1433.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pan Sauce for the Birds</td></tr></tbody></table>For service, I like to cut the birds in half lengthwise, which should be trivial if you snapped the sternum and wishbone before cooking them. Then I like to lay one half on the plate with the other draped over it at a 45-degree angle as you see in the lead photo of this post. It's totally not necessary, but I think it makes the plate look nicer and more compact, while giving the plate a little height. Just a quick plating tip from an old chef.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Now on to the Brussels sprouts which my wife claims to despise, snarking about them every time she saw the stalk of sprouts in the fridge. I haven't cooked sprouts in a very, very long time and here's why. As a seasonal restaurant with everything locally grown, foraged, and fished, we only served what we had available and in the winter, that meant a gracious plenty of Brussels sprouts.</div><div><br /></div><div>Customers coming to a fine dining restaurant (mind you this was many years ago now; today sprouts are on menus everywhere) were loath to part with good money to pay for a pedestrian storage vegetable such as sprouts. Naturally, they wanted asparagus with everything, regardless of its 4-week window of availability in late spring.</div><div><br /></div><div>So, we had to devise a way to entice them to order Brussels sprouts. We ended up shaving the sprouts and searing them hard with sliced shallots in duck fat, with a large quantity of chopped confited pork belly ends (the parts left after we sliced the pretty parts for other dishes). Then we sprinkled the sprouts with white sugar and let it caramelize, only to deglaze the whole with white balsamic vinegar. Voilà!: sweet and sour sprouts with pork belly and duck fat.</div><div><br /></div><div>At first, we sold a few portions here and there, but over time, we created a monster. Every table would order at least one portion of sprouts and most tables would order multiple portions to the point where I was begging my growers to increase production and sell me all that they could grow. They say that familiarity breeds contempt and so it was for me with sprouts. I cooked enough in my career that it took me a very long time to ever want to see another one.</div><div><br /></div><div>Recently, I saw a really nice display of sprouts on the stalk at the grocery store and brought a stalk home with me. For those who have never seen sprouts, the tiny cabbages grow all along a tall central stalk. They are harvested by snapping the little sprouts off the stem from the bottom to the top as they grow to size. In some cases, farmers cut the entire stem and send the whole thing to market. I like sprouts in this form because they have no cut ends to brown, desiccate, and require trimming.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gX7XqiFqfK1soCv_K6jcyzvj-iqWF43z5K38G91ZSyMAIfMgg9SGFm3d1_u3GH5xOuBa_Oyg4YWEOttdLqfq2_CEXD-QL62IoCnloWZPdpSnMC6aHmxnbrGWN3FuMXcWq0fglA1VqqFJzwP6h0i69GsGBfJ061X9bjIJ4Uolc9a87Je4S4kW_c2m_DzR/s3825/IMG_1431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2869" data-original-width="3825" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gX7XqiFqfK1soCv_K6jcyzvj-iqWF43z5K38G91ZSyMAIfMgg9SGFm3d1_u3GH5xOuBa_Oyg4YWEOttdLqfq2_CEXD-QL62IoCnloWZPdpSnMC6aHmxnbrGWN3FuMXcWq0fglA1VqqFJzwP6h0i69GsGBfJ061X9bjIJ4Uolc9a87Je4S4kW_c2m_DzR/w400-h300/IMG_1431.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sprouts, Shallots, Bacon, and Bacon Grease Before Roasting<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">For home, I like to roast halved sprouts in a moderate oven (say 350F) until they are good and brown on the cut side. In this case, I cooked 4-5 slices of bacon cut into strips (<i>lardons </i>in chef-speak) until they were done, then tossed the halved sprouts and sliced shallots with the bacon and enough bacon grease to coat everything.</div></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Then I pour the sprouts onto a sheet tray and arrange the sprouts such that they are all cut side down. This will let the cut sides brown nicely as you see in the very first photo in this post. Cook until the sprouts are soft and the cut sides are crispy. I want to say that I put the sprouts into the oven about 20 minutes before the chickens and then took them and the chickens out after 30 additional minutes for a grand total of about 50 minutes in the oven.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Oh, and the verdict from the snark in the family? I only gave her a few sprouts to try and before I could serve my plate, she asked for more. Win!</div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-31812580468410517812024-01-13T12:47:00.000-08:002024-01-13T12:47:21.491-08:00Quick Pastitsio<p>Although Ann and I generally save our big splurge meals (high carb deliciousness) for the weekend, after a weekday <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2024/01/forecast-100-chance-of-snow-shoeing.html" target="_blank">morning spent snowshoeing</a>, the urge for carbs was undeniable and Ann asked that I move our weekend pastitsio up a few days.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cvtf60ymVPBPHtFn9Ozr36UmMGu-yrtgCwJwZut17QFdjY2teuR1DERC2O_lDpY1nzN28cSCy4-j44rQs9e4bbziSfHJi336661MIhehDsaJVRlQUpwvxbBWWc40wb91AxZV0PyK8CQmj38M1WWGh8vlsMyQHpS2jRzYo-PJFKADvdqRdqq9x6UGmtXs/s3647/IMG_1428.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2735" data-original-width="3647" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_cvtf60ymVPBPHtFn9Ozr36UmMGu-yrtgCwJwZut17QFdjY2teuR1DERC2O_lDpY1nzN28cSCy4-j44rQs9e4bbziSfHJi336661MIhehDsaJVRlQUpwvxbBWWc40wb91AxZV0PyK8CQmj38M1WWGh8vlsMyQHpS2jRzYo-PJFKADvdqRdqq9x6UGmtXs/s320/IMG_1428.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quick Pastitsio</td></tr></tbody></table>The impetus for pastitsio was our watching Afrim Pristine's series "Cheese: A Love Story" on TV. Specifically, he filmed a show on Greek cheeses and while in Greece, a chef made his version of pastitsio causing Ann to ask me if I would make a batch. I love pastitsio and more than just saying yes to her request, I bought ground lamb and pasta on my next foray to the grocery store.<p>Pastitsio is often referred to as Greek lasagne and it has its origins in Italy. Originally a dish wrapped in pastry, hence its name, it has come to be over the last 100 years a simple baked pasta consisting of layers of pasta, sauce, and béchamel.</p><p>Ann and I set out to make a very quick version of pastitsio and within twenty minutes, had ours in the oven baking to golden brown on top. We tag-teamed the effort: while she got the pasta water and pans going on the stove, I cut an onion finely and minced a fair amount of garlic. She cooked the onion and then browned the lamb while I chased down the ingredients for the béchamel.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNKO-xdd9xFZy-0wAS25ciwgk7SJJulgGgcSZofHTsd2C05jR05CFSI5EVmvx5S1V5-omzv5pnJCZxCpUIqlRIEQQ_ZOBoRGzg4JFoGhtVpI9eotYusAlMqfnRQJFXcwdCOjhu6Zk5o3_P8z-EvmvSMNX9j98ZEzAP8P5UZyGznXmfZhoUQqOa5dgwpZP/s3642/IMG_1424.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2732" data-original-width="3642" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNKO-xdd9xFZy-0wAS25ciwgk7SJJulgGgcSZofHTsd2C05jR05CFSI5EVmvx5S1V5-omzv5pnJCZxCpUIqlRIEQQ_ZOBoRGzg4JFoGhtVpI9eotYusAlMqfnRQJFXcwdCOjhu6Zk5o3_P8z-EvmvSMNX9j98ZEzAP8P5UZyGznXmfZhoUQqOa5dgwpZP/w400-h300/IMG_1424.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ann Driving the Stove<br />L to R: Lamb Ragù, Bechamel, Pasta</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Once the meat was browned, we added a small can of tomatoes that we had blitzed into a rough sauce in the can using an immersion blender. And while that and the pasta par-cooked, we made the béchamel, the whole thing taking no more than 20 minutes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4MmSU0S9NlnkIEHvm3dSsSHMeZWpXFBJImyQzkf-ZtlMPWmQfUbP0xN1xnW34iGhvjyR6MNkHJ-xzI41LFoPyuBeoJXjV0Mod-eXz0fYmp7VE5T_-KtYmJW_94jMY6ec47xT2R36MFKyHaJu1rlgQ0V5ZbDBpriEOv-flmHXXc3Xko-EWN3_pa9zscU6/s3486/IMG_1426.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2615" data-original-width="3486" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4MmSU0S9NlnkIEHvm3dSsSHMeZWpXFBJImyQzkf-ZtlMPWmQfUbP0xN1xnW34iGhvjyR6MNkHJ-xzI41LFoPyuBeoJXjV0Mod-eXz0fYmp7VE5T_-KtYmJW_94jMY6ec47xT2R36MFKyHaJu1rlgQ0V5ZbDBpriEOv-flmHXXc3Xko-EWN3_pa9zscU6/w400-h300/IMG_1426.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grating Pecorino Romano on the Pasta and Sauce Mix</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3mh8Zv2-i9jqIik_w4OaB78fyiWU1_No6zOmpd6RgWXMcfjZWvLLH9tqhGvpN6nl2ofhKGH56Bg7Gj5xcsW2mq9mLwRCuEpZV6LcgRZ07dsni3U-Z5UafymHPvVveBcf0ZBxEJX9juH1s6qgllec0h5ITrvqecnO1iIkQYSmne65LqmIBJU596oGOyP1/s4032/IMG_1427.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU3mh8Zv2-i9jqIik_w4OaB78fyiWU1_No6zOmpd6RgWXMcfjZWvLLH9tqhGvpN6nl2ofhKGH56Bg7Gj5xcsW2mq9mLwRCuEpZV6LcgRZ07dsni3U-Z5UafymHPvVveBcf0ZBxEJX9juH1s6qgllec0h5ITrvqecnO1iIkQYSmne65LqmIBJU596oGOyP1/w400-h300/IMG_1427.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pasta Topped with Layers of Lamb Sauce, Béchamel, and Pecorino</td></tr></tbody></table><h3 style="text-align: left;">Quick Pastitsio</h3><div><br /></div><div>If there is such a thing as a traditional pastitsio, ours is a touch different. Many people make the sauce with ground beef rather than lamb, but I prefer lamb. That aside, we used the cheese and pasta that we could find locally. Typically this dish would be made with a cut called macaroni #2, a long tubular cut similar to (if not identical to) ziti lunghi. In Greece, the pasta is often arranged prettily in the bottom of the baking dish, but we were on a mission to eat dinner, not make the prettiest dish ever. The cheese would be either the milder kasseri or the more assertive and pecorino-like kefalotyri. We used our handy-dandy block of pecorino romano that always resides in our fridge.</div><div><br /></div><div>For the pasta:</div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div>1 pound or 500 grams of pasta (ziti, ziti lunghi, macaroni #2, perciatelli, etc.)</div><div>salt for pasta water</div></blockquote><div><br /></div><div>Before starting on the meat sauce, start the pan of salted pasta water and when it comes to a boil, add the pasta and cook until is is nearly done. I cooked the ziti for about 8 minutes, about two to three minutes shy of being al dente. While the pasta water is heating, start on the meat sauce. The meat sauce should be done when the pasta is done.</div><div><br /></div><div>For the meat sauce:</div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0 0 0 40px; padding: 0px;"><div style="text-align: left;">olive oil</div></blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div>1 small onion, in small dice</div><div>4 cloves garlic, minced</div><div>1 generous pinch ground cinnamon</div><div>1 teaspoon dried oregano</div><div>1 pound ground lamb</div><div>1 small can (15 ounce net weight) tomatoes or tomato sauce</div></blockquote><div><br /></div><div>Film a sauté pan with olive oil and cook the onion and garlic until the onion is translucent. Add the cinnamon and oregano and stir well. Add the meat and break it apart, cooking until it is browned. If using whole tomatoes, blend them and their juice to make a chunky sauce. Add the tomato sauce to the pan and cook at a simmer until the pasta is done and drained. If the sauce is still fairly liquid, turn up the heat for a couple of minutes to thicken. Season to taste.</div><div><br /></div><div>While the pasta and sauce are cooking, make the cream sauce.</div><div><br /></div><div>For the b<span style="text-align: center;">échamel/mornay:</span></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><span style="text-align: center;">3 tablespoons of butter</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">3 tablespoons of flour</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">2 cups of milk</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">freshly grated nutmeg, salt, pepper to taste</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">1/2 cup grated pecorino</span></div></blockquote><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">In a small pan, heat the butter and whisk in the flour well such that no lumps remain. Cook the mixture for a couple of minutes, then add the milk. Stir as the sauce thickens. Stir in the pecorino and season to taste with a few scrapings of nutmeg and a bit of salt and black pepper.</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">For the assembly:</span></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><span style="text-align: center;">baking pan</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">pan spray</span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">1/2 cup grated pecorino</span></div></blockquote><div><span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="text-align: center;">Heat the oven to moderate, say 350F. Spray a half hotel pan or other small baking dish with pan spray. Mix the cooked pasta with half the meat sauce and stir gently to coat well. Place in the bottom of the baking dish. Spread the remaining meat sauce in a layer over the pasta. Top with the cream sauce and sprinkle on the remaining pecorino. Bake in the oven until nicely browned on the top, about 25 minutes.</span></div><p></p>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-71772582680364206602024-01-11T10:48:00.000-08:002024-01-11T10:48:44.962-08:00Forecast: 100% Chance of Snow-Shoeing<p>Tuesday during the day we got seven inches of new powder by dark with another 6-10 inches predicted overnight. As we readied for bed, I told Ann excitedly there was zero percent chance that her gym would be open in the morning and 100% chance of our snowshoeing.</p><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1sCHoGhIIKegZIqNVujU6Hbdt-18PR8NElmAJdDT_0iCHGoGM6n37FPWMhGZlIM7Vb6bKTLf6Frf4n5UdlXOhTHC8_N1s5_KLsf8f-WulzHnRoZ7dH4CWg5ViENzdeXBWji7qLF7Xp8OXJzVP9et1UwQqX6ArJA_Sj1YDQCu2i-aPGasuYBhwcb70uu7/s3623/IMG_1423.jpg" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2717" data-original-width="3623" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi1sCHoGhIIKegZIqNVujU6Hbdt-18PR8NElmAJdDT_0iCHGoGM6n37FPWMhGZlIM7Vb6bKTLf6Frf4n5UdlXOhTHC8_N1s5_KLsf8f-WulzHnRoZ7dH4CWg5ViENzdeXBWji7qLF7Xp8OXJzVP9et1UwQqX6ArJA_Sj1YDQCu2i-aPGasuYBhwcb70uu7/w400-h300/IMG_1423.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>When we awoke in the morning, even before I got out of bed to look out the window, I read that schools had been cancelled for the day for the first time in a very, very long time. Out here in ski country, school just doesn't get cancelled for snow, so we must have got quite a bit. One glance out the window would confirm it: a winter wonderland!</p><p>Post coffee and after shoveling the sidewalk and driveway, I went into to the garage to retrieve our gear, gear that I had staged some weeks ago, pulling it out of its summer storage location in anticipation of our first big snowfall which in this dry El Niño year had so far eluded us. Then we went upstairs and started pulling on our layers for going out and doing active work at 23F with bluebird skies.</p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">Base layers, check</blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">Top layers, check<br />Sunglasses, check<br /> Snow boots, check</blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">Gaiters, check<br />Gloves, check<br />Snowshoes, check<br />Camera, check<br />Spare battery, oops!</blockquote><p>Because this was our first time ever showshoeing, it took a few extra minutes to put our snowshoes on, having to become acclimated to the operation of the bindings. Naturally, we have different brands of snowshoes with very different bindings. We were all set to start snowshoeing last winter, but I broke my foot and had to have surgery, eliminating any outdoor activity for several months.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsPqz1R_7fc-wyuhB3KojXf3fLLoaNQ6rmUd3N-6BDvFUCcHm3TLAOYwBe1EUBQXOeCRExfy_p0AT9wjYnhfAqx-OPmmHuWJYHwe_LO6L6oCdZj_9D4n3CPXJ-qZDBbj7raZtANoLmTrUpmPLLKGStzwpZGPyce-qoUvxiUExAdqfh2EGfNWRFLdc-op4Y/s6000/DSC06769.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsPqz1R_7fc-wyuhB3KojXf3fLLoaNQ6rmUd3N-6BDvFUCcHm3TLAOYwBe1EUBQXOeCRExfy_p0AT9wjYnhfAqx-OPmmHuWJYHwe_LO6L6oCdZj_9D4n3CPXJ-qZDBbj7raZtANoLmTrUpmPLLKGStzwpZGPyce-qoUvxiUExAdqfh2EGfNWRFLdc-op4Y/w266-h400/DSC06769.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div><br /></div>We set off down the gravel COID Road along the South Reach of the Deschutes River, the first snowshoers of the day. The only tracks on the trail were from a couple of cross country skiers, one of whom was our next door neighbor Mike whom we met as he was returning from his ski. How awesome is it to be the first person to leave tracks in the snow?<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2m-8WdUmL_5GG3jhEchtABLTEk4PQqPj2Snqr2r1de5MuVnLjbCS_dBgfW44lkVw3MQPgYyQ-kgzYFKhmZ_Rx_4wFPY8ugwyg3Scbxp6oaigeIs5LVAV7O06Y2sCHRdShrTdIm-HUAOaa4KgY5OrC6fn-_Q9F909jpfk8XHzFkKTufhyphenhyphenQrc0Yz0vJH9PB/s6000/DSC06772.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2m-8WdUmL_5GG3jhEchtABLTEk4PQqPj2Snqr2r1de5MuVnLjbCS_dBgfW44lkVw3MQPgYyQ-kgzYFKhmZ_Rx_4wFPY8ugwyg3Scbxp6oaigeIs5LVAV7O06Y2sCHRdShrTdIm-HUAOaa4KgY5OrC6fn-_Q9F909jpfk8XHzFkKTufhyphenhyphenQrc0Yz0vJH9PB/w400-h266/DSC06772.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh49BrTA-6nCsgXweMYFLHXoTlL9csGd-0UKnPLJd9TckEE3P9uY3IwLGJs-MOocFfGOdKUVPfGaRxIYvPQKUdxoteQbBppRj-0dyUkBEOB32pfzUcXFoyw6tNYwkDCujfnmCyq-9QS60MXi_h674emScwpcAjb7OIuW1JN0h9e3tvvUKkpKW9PyM6iKBIH/s6000/DSC06784.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh49BrTA-6nCsgXweMYFLHXoTlL9csGd-0UKnPLJd9TckEE3P9uY3IwLGJs-MOocFfGOdKUVPfGaRxIYvPQKUdxoteQbBppRj-0dyUkBEOB32pfzUcXFoyw6tNYwkDCujfnmCyq-9QS60MXi_h674emScwpcAjb7OIuW1JN0h9e3tvvUKkpKW9PyM6iKBIH/w400-h266/DSC06784.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbAizeKG8lGvH739ZepXQiGnsUWmmtb-6ed2gn_2U2CSeR2eFXkbL8xDeenmlQVmjJNXBMXRWvk7qEXZtL9OmMPPaLdrFHUMUEQzcfRcONvmctXtY_ADQ_g1uZ_IaDmrkg_O7A8bF7Wkb2vzCnAgeUUEGYq7tGYWvzRg2n4ajGwHrkqwkNBlA1g9hAV7t/s6000/DSC06792.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHbAizeKG8lGvH739ZepXQiGnsUWmmtb-6ed2gn_2U2CSeR2eFXkbL8xDeenmlQVmjJNXBMXRWvk7qEXZtL9OmMPPaLdrFHUMUEQzcfRcONvmctXtY_ADQ_g1uZ_IaDmrkg_O7A8bF7Wkb2vzCnAgeUUEGYq7tGYWvzRg2n4ajGwHrkqwkNBlA1g9hAV7t/w266-h400/DSC06792.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwslWGz52RyDM1PXU8yDmnAPTZkc1xxb97XTM645Y1_DUn6yWK87PbLVjf8bDp822E5bqpRnrad-vqA1grJO9YGRcLg2DsT2KEUBhvhike_FGMyK9cLDDrDgL1e3eCJhnbCkNziycUs4aeqBWICzM3G-vJqW8PaHmzhMoHXw2c6B8pjhAU5Q9Fuc6uzRR9/s6000/DSC06796.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwslWGz52RyDM1PXU8yDmnAPTZkc1xxb97XTM645Y1_DUn6yWK87PbLVjf8bDp822E5bqpRnrad-vqA1grJO9YGRcLg2DsT2KEUBhvhike_FGMyK9cLDDrDgL1e3eCJhnbCkNziycUs4aeqBWICzM3G-vJqW8PaHmzhMoHXw2c6B8pjhAU5Q9Fuc6uzRR9/w400-h266/DSC06796.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkX_l2Oxfu-9K1xaeZGFijR4V_KIObr45GaCAXgaw8KaJQo84PFhOBQWBDLpZjnuBJW0q3ijuMU1_TGYGc7uZOVivkOE2d67O1Ms5A_fuo_5841Pl9WOFHnkp3BSStSR_qE3f-BNPruyTW_BVY5kbWx-v9KTMeWGpq-AbB-WJd87K2Fv6SA3AWoQE4_1J/s6000/DSC06799.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkX_l2Oxfu-9K1xaeZGFijR4V_KIObr45GaCAXgaw8KaJQo84PFhOBQWBDLpZjnuBJW0q3ijuMU1_TGYGc7uZOVivkOE2d67O1Ms5A_fuo_5841Pl9WOFHnkp3BSStSR_qE3f-BNPruyTW_BVY5kbWx-v9KTMeWGpq-AbB-WJd87K2Fv6SA3AWoQE4_1J/w400-h266/DSC06799.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJtcM8hR3eFUytT9rjgSAxR6RGpjSADGSy00xoFosjeOz_BsdjGSHih294zb9KT3FUZAyypXafFRzQgMDOPgEDdMIrzrWCpdNt886CN8rBs6j_wIYFL4YlpNX-VhwchRZj0VI5QkSACgHVfgEjRahYs2NETTkMY5aIoRy1JVdCUnoA5JEfORCO1yg-qF-/s6000/DSC06802.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKJtcM8hR3eFUytT9rjgSAxR6RGpjSADGSy00xoFosjeOz_BsdjGSHih294zb9KT3FUZAyypXafFRzQgMDOPgEDdMIrzrWCpdNt886CN8rBs6j_wIYFL4YlpNX-VhwchRZj0VI5QkSACgHVfgEjRahYs2NETTkMY5aIoRy1JVdCUnoA5JEfORCO1yg-qF-/w400-h266/DSC06802.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Osier Dogwood</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhQ8akJ3aegACOE0XNz6UD7nyKltisjUwkmvoTi9cvTDsPCrU7DoEYMAay8XxD3dRoNlu_395g9zEwPR7DBthqzevo0Wnf3kMjAVsHoVNaIRVbgu1NlopDeKZCFNivDwT2825kGTgWq3efTJcqVuJkByOL87oaXNTaVZIJc44QR7Xxi-6TNa5qpJlK70o/s6000/DSC06805.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhQ8akJ3aegACOE0XNz6UD7nyKltisjUwkmvoTi9cvTDsPCrU7DoEYMAay8XxD3dRoNlu_395g9zEwPR7DBthqzevo0Wnf3kMjAVsHoVNaIRVbgu1NlopDeKZCFNivDwT2825kGTgWq3efTJcqVuJkByOL87oaXNTaVZIJc44QR7Xxi-6TNa5qpJlK70o/w400-h266/DSC06805.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVRinkOf7v8PbxBTJGS6GqCFKMSkn5LsMMoMaLw3-EKIg8uBBQzqeNNhbc4-GtMOrkvUGODLI-_NtHoMsTN8RkeSz9QTmIFxl7qWCTGrDv2Kyn-mLU3z-gRvlGLusEhDfhxJXge8JYfQp2wzEfoq41Csc0Gx9XvUHbftBMd-G6LfQaDGTRyN0wNCljlg-/s6000/DSC06814.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVRinkOf7v8PbxBTJGS6GqCFKMSkn5LsMMoMaLw3-EKIg8uBBQzqeNNhbc4-GtMOrkvUGODLI-_NtHoMsTN8RkeSz9QTmIFxl7qWCTGrDv2Kyn-mLU3z-gRvlGLusEhDfhxJXge8JYfQp2wzEfoq41Csc0Gx9XvUHbftBMd-G6LfQaDGTRyN0wNCljlg-/w266-h400/DSC06814.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bluebird Skies!</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLkStJ2r452le-t_lfn0HKXl5rvR61_Du6m5juTWjh17s3KMqeHU8kubrRjy-QErWseWryL4Hv4ijpbTtu-JMPh7Amtj3inYQJ9jkvhI2c-ZMnKVn7eKmCVKsngBvU8b_1HQeErM4abl6EUcjZlxZFe0OWwg6bFYECjlbNItowrhZW61O_EStRIabLRWhQ/s6000/DSC06817.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLkStJ2r452le-t_lfn0HKXl5rvR61_Du6m5juTWjh17s3KMqeHU8kubrRjy-QErWseWryL4Hv4ijpbTtu-JMPh7Amtj3inYQJ9jkvhI2c-ZMnKVn7eKmCVKsngBvU8b_1HQeErM4abl6EUcjZlxZFe0OWwg6bFYECjlbNItowrhZW61O_EStRIabLRWhQ/w400-h266/DSC06817.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQroxaEGBqGrSxQhhBZn4ZTQuSpLiwOOgucMfEjEaLexDH-QeVHFr2c5hXuggYNusEYPIiXxEh64OAu-gJEpT3u-qylQtR7AU5ny5TrVMKQrf7FZFvgsWoZw8qM20X0oO1wKe-haGoi1_wzdDJxc5Cj0hhBhmYyqSvySnJNaM8ILCEeNUpmRQh76QhrMoy/s6000/DSC06823.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQroxaEGBqGrSxQhhBZn4ZTQuSpLiwOOgucMfEjEaLexDH-QeVHFr2c5hXuggYNusEYPIiXxEh64OAu-gJEpT3u-qylQtR7AU5ny5TrVMKQrf7FZFvgsWoZw8qM20X0oO1wKe-haGoi1_wzdDJxc5Cj0hhBhmYyqSvySnJNaM8ILCEeNUpmRQh76QhrMoy/w400-h266/DSC06823.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1aDBkA4zgFWGLAWIG65azBFvr2TinQzojFw-teKEZ2jTJ70L7KEqCCbPDDe_9qcgSel7rPE2h8cI_kNwWVERLVIBP22tn7iJa1D0JGqPm8NPfO6sqDpigBoJ_hZtVPZR9kPiINZANYZqb_watbM6yNB-8Rr73R3FMQWkJWIKQc-qD0skShhNnkajGWFqA/s6000/DSC06829.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; 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text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhLyE7z0P44N4B06Iv3mRFBHz6Iau8aJkxJp_cwDF0zXVqt5PYk668IFgce3tyNxypY0-zehohpDXPtTEW1oVzeNG4pgoXo9ONAeY9dRqiqGKLWkfjyeDUzVsEvpkeA4kZcTWsHggbVUwFJbQoXXgD_ou_2ma47LGfLB1ZKOh3Ih8_iV0ZbNpqPnEYfjMF/s6000/DSC06849.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhLyE7z0P44N4B06Iv3mRFBHz6Iau8aJkxJp_cwDF0zXVqt5PYk668IFgce3tyNxypY0-zehohpDXPtTEW1oVzeNG4pgoXo9ONAeY9dRqiqGKLWkfjyeDUzVsEvpkeA4kZcTWsHggbVUwFJbQoXXgD_ou_2ma47LGfLB1ZKOh3Ih8_iV0ZbNpqPnEYfjMF/w266-h400/DSC06849.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doug Fir</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26NJW2FuECc6DcKGy-1Y8wDtPkpg0_zGCJuNKKGq_D1AimHzVoNvl36lcvFZioiTFlbeT6O3WL1RiMlm0Sj932P1_AUGA9ehbPAhM3kbp1BtgINbu9nTbHlqPGM1BWzqdqxh3UXEH0nK_UCJj1kMZn2-f6Bjr_wOyfqyy-b5yoEmPw08fo7gj7xVwi8O9/s6000/DSC06850.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26NJW2FuECc6DcKGy-1Y8wDtPkpg0_zGCJuNKKGq_D1AimHzVoNvl36lcvFZioiTFlbeT6O3WL1RiMlm0Sj932P1_AUGA9ehbPAhM3kbp1BtgINbu9nTbHlqPGM1BWzqdqxh3UXEH0nK_UCJj1kMZn2-f6Bjr_wOyfqyy-b5yoEmPw08fo7gj7xVwi8O9/w266-h400/DSC06850.jpg" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7iK7s2s354oaKA2iWVjZT-rZ9LnxRd-QuJgovAJ7k4f8exphxopOteynnh66DA1TJidDowOQCH2fnc40HY7VkktR9u0BMGp9_B1HAxVQ-BFHP1ZVcukv91t2J4U1ruwgiz3Dxvn5BwqX5-T2ID-5uFeXLJtzqE00Z1pmBKqz0FRxN9U9hYajxc7iS5CX/s6000/DSC06851.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ7iK7s2s354oaKA2iWVjZT-rZ9LnxRd-QuJgovAJ7k4f8exphxopOteynnh66DA1TJidDowOQCH2fnc40HY7VkktR9u0BMGp9_B1HAxVQ-BFHP1ZVcukv91t2J4U1ruwgiz3Dxvn5BwqX5-T2ID-5uFeXLJtzqE00Z1pmBKqz0FRxN9U9hYajxc7iS5CX/w400-h266/DSC06851.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnLajBueZWqSA0q1wQRWd9Xi_NOuk7lKEdhbLO3ftGboUzwCzZlH2ppoyVZvXIZybLO_PmfDLWL_dUsOIRnuRZ0h24Eh7CJAYmok3Q47Lj-g5oGavpPFuAZHOPF7UDc5zROlVkedcr01Sd1xfQJvAeVfRMEFrgvh5UTwowphZmoqwGxedXZyxvQYO3S3U/s6000/DSC06852.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtnLajBueZWqSA0q1wQRWd9Xi_NOuk7lKEdhbLO3ftGboUzwCzZlH2ppoyVZvXIZybLO_PmfDLWL_dUsOIRnuRZ0h24Eh7CJAYmok3Q47Lj-g5oGavpPFuAZHOPF7UDc5zROlVkedcr01Sd1xfQJvAeVfRMEFrgvh5UTwowphZmoqwGxedXZyxvQYO3S3U/w400-h266/DSC06852.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48WZvIadqBIXvD69d1uxDr5CKxAHGjSWAbthdm0Caz-fF_vhMRJL5_QBXew2jccPZfNflB5mUZMxd_JA0pZuzEuZQPT8uOyMciWG5rQub_p_lTyq3rp3l1U94z8lgZ_6fuyhqwq5PAsc3-zEkEW9BgWjKWkM0PfNrouGv1ihv5QXtwfu7-qRFpN8F1Uxp/s6000/DSC06854.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48WZvIadqBIXvD69d1uxDr5CKxAHGjSWAbthdm0Caz-fF_vhMRJL5_QBXew2jccPZfNflB5mUZMxd_JA0pZuzEuZQPT8uOyMciWG5rQub_p_lTyq3rp3l1U94z8lgZ_6fuyhqwq5PAsc3-zEkEW9BgWjKWkM0PfNrouGv1ihv5QXtwfu7-qRFpN8F1Uxp/w400-h266/DSC06854.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ponderosa Pine</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuO-yHcDc5cI1K-4TR-JpMiWrFvvGAOcWGBAaqiMNPMaUKiJS5WJO5SPr4fvVoQoJnktITrZ6AIG22TV8g2MhOZuLOyE0MilSYTLBg-ohZK2uVV1phFEReRwm4yNkvXMwU1vYKyDi_FRdr6KkR-NJnUEwCA5orqOn8vfKqIKWowMokzYspc6XK-KT1KM6/s6000/DSC06856.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuO-yHcDc5cI1K-4TR-JpMiWrFvvGAOcWGBAaqiMNPMaUKiJS5WJO5SPr4fvVoQoJnktITrZ6AIG22TV8g2MhOZuLOyE0MilSYTLBg-ohZK2uVV1phFEReRwm4yNkvXMwU1vYKyDi_FRdr6KkR-NJnUEwCA5orqOn8vfKqIKWowMokzYspc6XK-KT1KM6/w400-h266/DSC06856.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioWldIWvEVZsyYdLsjRFRsgzbatQeKVFBwu4qcdIgqIkkilvQ2JrbAZt0VXzSvchkJqqeezG_8vfEcRMQWlTJepH50mV2bQ_n-lcJNx9MiyQ39x_kS2uhpNUWfTQ-qyr8fsHQM6esRBUekka46XsGI8-i3SEh7nM6SBISA_UyiQhl6ShvvFQxNCqmyqWpR/s6000/DSC06858.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="6000" data-original-width="4000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioWldIWvEVZsyYdLsjRFRsgzbatQeKVFBwu4qcdIgqIkkilvQ2JrbAZt0VXzSvchkJqqeezG_8vfEcRMQWlTJepH50mV2bQ_n-lcJNx9MiyQ39x_kS2uhpNUWfTQ-qyr8fsHQM6esRBUekka46XsGI8-i3SEh7nM6SBISA_UyiQhl6ShvvFQxNCqmyqWpR/w266-h400/DSC06858.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scouler's Willow</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCT40qwFHR0N1BhZtjZ9RTTrqNrDARtydmfJ1o5R9G3AzEtJKGG1pFRxP1dwln8lqAvfqje29oBrbf_NAi8Hkcf2hsvFiIiTl6TjdZ95Sm07nOHj6-bm4SmR3p34Hw3HFn2bvlYPp2OMbir9XJO8ko2lzWf7isakeR_PfW3Gbpnvo0efqYU6r0-atvFDrI/s6000/DSC06859.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCT40qwFHR0N1BhZtjZ9RTTrqNrDARtydmfJ1o5R9G3AzEtJKGG1pFRxP1dwln8lqAvfqje29oBrbf_NAi8Hkcf2hsvFiIiTl6TjdZ95Sm07nOHj6-bm4SmR3p34Hw3HFn2bvlYPp2OMbir9XJO8ko2lzWf7isakeR_PfW3Gbpnvo0efqYU6r0-atvFDrI/w400-h266/DSC06859.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIu3HSBQ_Q1hW_-RdRFWJazpDCw3cE3NN9Nyg9-Bw87cX5WOsTIECbJ8QA8THvDhA7KNwOpnhwyFas0KSHdztu6RAVjF0M4F4wOHMbDzTm_-DzsAD8q7R-nua_JapQLp7YFWvGxXEB6iXm497KPOrKPZ_m9ZXNEGYz5PDzjpIGN6VxHLqQsqWZMzphOfKx/s6000/DSC06861.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="6000" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIu3HSBQ_Q1hW_-RdRFWJazpDCw3cE3NN9Nyg9-Bw87cX5WOsTIECbJ8QA8THvDhA7KNwOpnhwyFas0KSHdztu6RAVjF0M4F4wOHMbDzTm_-DzsAD8q7R-nua_JapQLp7YFWvGxXEB6iXm497KPOrKPZ_m9ZXNEGYz5PDzjpIGN6VxHLqQsqWZMzphOfKx/w400-h266/DSC06861.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Sadly, my chronic back pain has been acting up recently and shoveling all this snow has really exacerbated my condition. Two miles down the trail was about all the abuse it could take, despite the gorgeous surroundings. The pain and a very dead camera battery saw us turning around and heading back to the house. I staggered back probably five minutes after Ann got back.</p><p>Naturally, I didn't take all the pictures that I wanted as I underestimated the effect of 23F temperatures on my camera battery. Naturally, I walked out of the house forgetting to pick up the spare battery off the counter on the way out the door. Even warming the battery in an interior pocket did not help.</p><p>Also, probably as a result of my using gloves, I managed to get the camera into a weird bracketing mode that shot three photos and merged them into one HDR version, using up precious camera battery in so doing. I did not discover this until more than an hour into our walk. That's my single biggest beef with my Sony digital camera: my big hands find it so, so easy to inadvertently change the camera settings without any warning at all.</p><p>With apologies to MasterCard, making the first tracks in 15 inches of fresh powder: Priceless!</p></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-55899253077203293582024-01-05T10:31:00.000-08:002024-01-05T10:31:47.835-08:00Paccheri Pie, Step-by-Step<p>Ann and I love pasta; it is one of our absolute favorite foods and our go-to any time that we want comfort food. At some point in the past year or so, Ann had spied a photo of <i>paccheri</i> baked in a springform pan and we resolved to make it during the holiday, ordering in paccheri, a cut that is not available locally here in the food desert that is Central Oregon.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00AUuVCRiuAdDeV_hAauW-YvSKevIERJln1UR9S2Tr9mcTznuLT_K5hgHw4CYsnCAmXJox7F4upGU6ZmWtaBeCysJ1nYFjsVVRxYKaOIWyoty9lm-A1pxu6sU_RX90lRreSdu6c8Pn3wd9BjTepu2RA5VP7TGCnUKtAz6uTL6mQbY-YrXLdtDQQhbz_tL/s3598/IMG_1419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2699" data-original-width="3598" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh00AUuVCRiuAdDeV_hAauW-YvSKevIERJln1UR9S2Tr9mcTznuLT_K5hgHw4CYsnCAmXJox7F4upGU6ZmWtaBeCysJ1nYFjsVVRxYKaOIWyoty9lm-A1pxu6sU_RX90lRreSdu6c8Pn3wd9BjTepu2RA5VP7TGCnUKtAz6uTL6mQbY-YrXLdtDQQhbz_tL/w400-h300/IMG_1419.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paccheri Pie</td></tr></tbody></table>Paccheri, pronounced like "packery," is a pasta from the south of Italy, from Campania, the region whose capital is Naples, birthplace of Ann's biological parents. How fitting for her that we should be using this pasta! Paccheri is similar to a really fat and thick rigatoni, albeit not quite as long as rigatoni but much wider in diameter with thicker walls.<p>Specifically, we bought paccheri <i>lisce</i>, the smooth version (as opposed to <i>rigati</i>, "ridged" or <i>millerighe</i>, "thousand ridged") from a new-to-me pasta maker called Marulo. Marulo hails from the Torre Annuziata neighborhood of Naples, situated right at Pompei.</p><p>This pasta is wickedly expensive, running about $13 for 500g at retail; wholesale is about half of this, but I no longer need wholesale quantities of anything to feed the two of us. However, it may be the best quality commercial dried pasta that I have ever eaten and for a special occasion, worth every penny.</p><p>As an aside, how can a leading brand of pasta in Italy be that crap that Barilla makes? Granted, Barilla in the States is made in the States, and Barilla in Italy is made in Italy, but still...I guess there is no accounting for taste in either country.</p><p>One reason that I love paccheri so much is that I love pasta with bite–keep your wimpy <i>capelli d'angelo</i> and the like. Give me a thick toothy pasta any day. Ditto for Ann.</p><p>Paccheri is new to us at home, but I used to cook it from time-to-time at the restaurant, but rarely and mainly for staff meals. We were never trying to compete with our good friends at the neighboring Italian restaurant. (But, hey, they're northerners and what do they know about paccheri, eh?). So, can I help it if one of our best selling entrees in the final couple of years was <i>triofe al pesto</i> with pulled beef shortrib, my homage to Liguria? Or that we made gnocchi damn near every day?</p><p>We planned to make our paccheri pie for friends in the week between Christmas and New Year's, but that plan evaporated on account of illness. Instead, Ann and I assembled and baked the pie on New Year's Eve just for the two of us, after our plans to celebrate New Year's Eve with Rob and Dyce also went up in smoke, again because of illness.</p><p>Following is a recipe for enough beef ragù and ingredients to make at 25cm (nominally 10") springform pan of paccheri, sufficient to feed 6-8 people.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Beef Ragù</h3><p>Making beef ragù is a labor of love. The preparation is simple, but it takes time. In this case, the sauce took roughly eight and a half hours, but only 30 minutes of that was active preparation and searing. The other eight hours saw the ragù cook slowly on the stovetop until the meat fell apart. This is a perfect dish to put in a slow cooker and forget. If you do use a slow cooker, you'll need to remove the lid in the last hour or two of cooking to reduce the liquid in the sauce.</p><p>For beef, I used flatiron from the chuck, a cut that will take longer to fall apart than others, but whose flavor is unmatched. Besides chuck, you can use any flavorful braising cut that you like such as short ribs, shank, or neck. I wanted to use short ribs, but they're almost impossible to find here in town.</p><p>You're probably best served by making the ragù a day or two in advance of cooking the paccheri pie, especially because it is easier to stuff the paccheri with stiff, cold sauce rather than loose, liquid sauce.</p><p>As for any sauce that is going to reduce, season the sauce after it has reduced so that you do not oversalt it. Cook until the sauce is very thick; you really do not want a lot of liquid to leak out of the paccheri pie while it is baking.</p><p>The following recipe yields about two liters of sauce.</p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">3 pounds beef shoulder, shank, short ribs, or other braising cut, in 1-inch cubes<br />4 ounces guanciale, diced<br />1 large onion, finely diced<br />1 large carrot, finely diced<br />1 large stalk celery, finely diced<br />4 large cloves garlic, finely minced<br />1 sprig rosemary<br />1 tablespoon dried basil<br />8 fluid ounces (1 cup) dry red wine<br />8 fluid ounces (1 cup) milk, cream, or half and half</blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juice<br />salt to taste</blockquote><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMMteKGWe2NXJ8HJsFAtP3LMMdNbuqa8jJMe0Wb33Hrm_1h3iDTG8yBC4qxeoMJ5o9AFMpmGMfFZr300UWWxsmYvP9n-kwSIMgaeFIS_WPEG3UPa9zS_f5VaIjEfT2CV7k1NtBGHshmnrgeiLEzBffvhPVHwurBLqVd0lHXx44bo-Ubj9aYzqI5eG_guk/s2902/IMG_1403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2177" data-original-width="2902" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVMMteKGWe2NXJ8HJsFAtP3LMMdNbuqa8jJMe0Wb33Hrm_1h3iDTG8yBC4qxeoMJ5o9AFMpmGMfFZr300UWWxsmYvP9n-kwSIMgaeFIS_WPEG3UPa9zS_f5VaIjEfT2CV7k1NtBGHshmnrgeiLEzBffvhPVHwurBLqVd0lHXx44bo-Ubj9aYzqI5eG_guk/w400-h300/IMG_1403.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debone and Dice Beef into 1"/2.5cm Cubes</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJuEXdfs5xcJ0Sw0vTMOQgBxTK3SpCBC4nlKIXjxwZAToLkU-a_caG8m7QjlVFUS7gNGbidXdXtnRcX5xigUXd5pbDvVXM2_aTW1STiuO_9pzU7fn7kFliaMf7Hut7PKXi83Wu9lvlniMue95fVLgRZf8H-JTwOqSVto6i3G4n7u6Dx_tEq2RpeGrJBJq/s3292/IMG_1404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2469" data-original-width="3292" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWJuEXdfs5xcJ0Sw0vTMOQgBxTK3SpCBC4nlKIXjxwZAToLkU-a_caG8m7QjlVFUS7gNGbidXdXtnRcX5xigUXd5pbDvVXM2_aTW1STiuO_9pzU7fn7kFliaMf7Hut7PKXi83Wu9lvlniMue95fVLgRZf8H-JTwOqSVto6i3G4n7u6Dx_tEq2RpeGrJBJq/w400-h300/IMG_1404.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working in Batches, Brown the Beef and the Guanciale</td></tr></tbody></table></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAYyThmOUZrYN91qXJSmR3xNJxcSv-L0g6GKJIGBRJut0GmFq2Kioj9EmUUtnm18u8AYY8LRmWJPlMgw0ahD5lCY2kIZbF6ohYllH30rdCD0Gg254MpmGsXLfj42rrFBiEliPptqrN2XPSsF_jQ5P9khYqFaPq9Sd_FxAa9P-HJQWRc1JdKj5_Yq__GL3/s3410/IMG_1406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2558" data-original-width="3410" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidAYyThmOUZrYN91qXJSmR3xNJxcSv-L0g6GKJIGBRJut0GmFq2Kioj9EmUUtnm18u8AYY8LRmWJPlMgw0ahD5lCY2kIZbF6ohYllH30rdCD0Gg254MpmGsXLfj42rrFBiEliPptqrN2XPSsF_jQ5P9khYqFaPq9Sd_FxAa9P-HJQWRc1JdKj5_Yq__GL3/w400-h300/IMG_1406.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Browned Beef and Guanciale</td></tr></tbody></table><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4lQuxNuEggay9k8H-GSUPg7XsLoxa0JKp0G7MeatynjXsEdSywErV1rJNB8EW-eON7eVmiLCbIz7ip_TqCdb9ETiL1yuDkyZz_0muddHDb8RX5chQgn937H2n8QBHr4z6O1_n3wo1Qx_ILma88yUUoEEJ6VkfjyVNPIfwCJakqwCK1qJhpung7iyrLrs/s2472/IMG_1402.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1854" data-original-width="2472" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4lQuxNuEggay9k8H-GSUPg7XsLoxa0JKp0G7MeatynjXsEdSywErV1rJNB8EW-eON7eVmiLCbIz7ip_TqCdb9ETiL1yuDkyZz_0muddHDb8RX5chQgn937H2n8QBHr4z6O1_n3wo1Qx_ILma88yUUoEEJ6VkfjyVNPIfwCJakqwCK1qJhpung7iyrLrs/w400-h300/IMG_1402.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mise en Place: Onion, Celery, Carrot, Garlic, Guanciale, Rosemary</td></tr></tbody></table><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJf4MDLD88M70Iow5KwT2h-kYrHtNtb6TMmRKqEtFP7-U3pXdY79vUccEzKG9OiiNP4z4j9UZ2rdJSu_JiNgrqk_R6vFcMiM9Otfd5olhDJRidpxzVWA3GL5wjc1eeKLPBsmHfNLkOrPsVdllmhLPq0hedYSjoobrXdeeVqfsadO2uwLi8mJOXt_wB8_qz/s3737/IMG_1405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2803" data-original-width="3737" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJf4MDLD88M70Iow5KwT2h-kYrHtNtb6TMmRKqEtFP7-U3pXdY79vUccEzKG9OiiNP4z4j9UZ2rdJSu_JiNgrqk_R6vFcMiM9Otfd5olhDJRidpxzVWA3GL5wjc1eeKLPBsmHfNLkOrPsVdllmhLPq0hedYSjoobrXdeeVqfsadO2uwLi8mJOXt_wB8_qz/w400-h300/IMG_1405.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sweat the Vegetables in the Pan After Meat is Browned<br />Add Basil, Garlic, and Rosemary; Scrape All Brown Bits from Pan</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEOQkB7u_U5RBNVb0sszLaCtr0CFguRnfhPUW2IVi17LJ2vgQfecuj_fg9WNdBL8vfnCHuiFgGLN_O_OCquhiNRkB1VR_ViuKTRBOT5DRM5ChMRNmH8hvHZAZ0Pq3nd9BPQQ2Ih-bSrloT6y1A_O2Yrkp97xrnwQ0XOyi-AcFPR3YY3ZCI71epKBdVhj2_/s3748/IMG_1407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2811" data-original-width="3748" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEOQkB7u_U5RBNVb0sszLaCtr0CFguRnfhPUW2IVi17LJ2vgQfecuj_fg9WNdBL8vfnCHuiFgGLN_O_OCquhiNRkB1VR_ViuKTRBOT5DRM5ChMRNmH8hvHZAZ0Pq3nd9BPQQ2Ih-bSrloT6y1A_O2Yrkp97xrnwQ0XOyi-AcFPR3YY3ZCI71epKBdVhj2_/w400-h300/IMG_1407.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deglaze Vegetables with Red Wine;<br />Add Meat, Tomatoes, and Milk;<br />Scrape Any Brown Bits off the Bottom of the Pan</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjFwvD7bEHtmjLF8UMp3gSQufDaDetj6qOCFGU5Rsk2XBRWzvEE6vJr7oV2jSTz2gIWmlNAMD1rdTPVliTkULxkTrhOaGcTQrWM8nvvyAX6gWtefEijEsUDijueDhyphenhyphenJPxfElAqLOQIWiN01NzbcZ8uwcmkeSBCeNFArMveYoLHzazDYIInWloLonKlGOiB/s3696/IMG_1408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2772" data-original-width="3696" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjFwvD7bEHtmjLF8UMp3gSQufDaDetj6qOCFGU5Rsk2XBRWzvEE6vJr7oV2jSTz2gIWmlNAMD1rdTPVliTkULxkTrhOaGcTQrWM8nvvyAX6gWtefEijEsUDijueDhyphenhyphenJPxfElAqLOQIWiN01NzbcZ8uwcmkeSBCeNFArMveYoLHzazDYIInWloLonKlGOiB/w400-h300/IMG_1408.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cook at a Simmer Until Beef Shreds Easily and Sauce is Thick;<br />Add Water as Necessary and Stir as Needed</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Paccheri Pie</h3></div><div><br /></div><div>The assembly of the paccheri pie is easy. You'll need a 25cm (10") springform pan and a sheet tray to catch any sauce that leaks out while baking. Par-cook the paccheri in boiling salted water until just about done. These cooked for about 18 minutes and would have taken about 20 to be fully <i>al dente</i> and ready to eat. Stand the pasta on end in the cheese-coated mold and stuff them with sauce.</div><div><br /></div><div>You'll find that cold sauce works better than warm sauce and that your fingers are the best tool for stuffing the pasta. Spread a layer of cheese over the top. Don't be shy with the cheese; it is the glue that holds the pie together. Bake in a moderate oven (350F) until nicely browned.</div><div><br /></div><div>After the pie bakes, let it cool for a few minutes before running a spatula around the edges and unmolding it. A pie this size will feed six easily and eight with a substantial side dish.</div><div><br /></div></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;"><div><div>500g paccheri</div></div><div><div>pan spray or olive oil</div></div><div><div>1/2 cup grated pecorino</div></div><div><div>2 liters beef ragù</div></div><div><div>8 ounces (250g) grated mozzarella</div></div></blockquote><div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAK7yiVtp16jyZ3UWyRTwxojjqacKGtX5qQYqfTcel30tsw8x7Vi9zc3F00U47loNkB4O1VGNm4TJwbKV4rp8UjHsjuIBwRB33fr6k7kv_CmN1JpbyrjiZhi8UY_VEhbwuTk5uUyRpagf1IM_3vYHPr7zz-G1qaKYazVBKdd5iZUN2-d25zGPJQlXLq9A6/s1500/IMG_1410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAK7yiVtp16jyZ3UWyRTwxojjqacKGtX5qQYqfTcel30tsw8x7Vi9zc3F00U47loNkB4O1VGNm4TJwbKV4rp8UjHsjuIBwRB33fr6k7kv_CmN1JpbyrjiZhi8UY_VEhbwuTk5uUyRpagf1IM_3vYHPr7zz-G1qaKYazVBKdd5iZUN2-d25zGPJQlXLq9A6/w400-h300/IMG_1410.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paccheri Lisce, Boil in Salted Water Until Almost Done</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lWt8yo-tlLnKVmyBuWGsk_I96zYYlRfK5r-s62Z6BZMpxlqjORGuiVC3oT0xvzurOhTYvAEZEH6Wghq-_OY15in23SEfgDHPd1x4-K7EHerCoRlP3X9HQxvOnedkIQQ6QN6__yINcgI1rzUvuFAEvVqUIJo3adds1V6DOmJ_3QzR-odwwPqAPuQ2yb4a/s3225/IMG_1411.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2419" data-original-width="3225" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lWt8yo-tlLnKVmyBuWGsk_I96zYYlRfK5r-s62Z6BZMpxlqjORGuiVC3oT0xvzurOhTYvAEZEH6Wghq-_OY15in23SEfgDHPd1x4-K7EHerCoRlP3X9HQxvOnedkIQQ6QN6__yINcgI1rzUvuFAEvVqUIJo3adds1V6DOmJ_3QzR-odwwPqAPuQ2yb4a/w400-h300/IMG_1411.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coat the Springform with Oil or Pan Spray and Grated Cheese</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNMZq_BX3ealLGHv41uW6XcxKTlWlX27qLbOLlqXkKAZWQiQwh9aMZV3c_MnJoy4f8of_fhIkmj3Ymj1r_F1vT2DTjUV1BYAH1RfI60ZKWi22YKy6kylrjsB55bPeurzwypCyPBGv4CydBFXUJt9W_9rrAwROjtRLaj-U6gxp2NL0ZOa6AEv5QFLaDLL13/s3207/IMG_1413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2405" data-original-width="3207" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNMZq_BX3ealLGHv41uW6XcxKTlWlX27qLbOLlqXkKAZWQiQwh9aMZV3c_MnJoy4f8of_fhIkmj3Ymj1r_F1vT2DTjUV1BYAH1RfI60ZKWi22YKy6kylrjsB55bPeurzwypCyPBGv4CydBFXUJt9W_9rrAwROjtRLaj-U6gxp2NL0ZOa6AEv5QFLaDLL13/w400-h300/IMG_1413.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrange Par-Cooked Paccheri in the Mold</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Q0Hvwk-u3jdk0JyKWN_7zmQHac2V-PKiyhxeYaIcmxj5Z-xUcyUOsRGHoqrKJEIGfglepubghR4NX_PRHqpI8hxzPP1ZkYgMQTfdaJwIaZO1xt9CbYjdXNJI3pfRccgLf0jmfqlRbrgSessuZIuAiEFiEj686MLbI40D1oW6ozvewAyxClfQ3m7grCgZ/s2744/IMG_1414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2058" data-original-width="2744" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Q0Hvwk-u3jdk0JyKWN_7zmQHac2V-PKiyhxeYaIcmxj5Z-xUcyUOsRGHoqrKJEIGfglepubghR4NX_PRHqpI8hxzPP1ZkYgMQTfdaJwIaZO1xt9CbYjdXNJI3pfRccgLf0jmfqlRbrgSessuZIuAiEFiEj686MLbI40D1oW6ozvewAyxClfQ3m7grCgZ/w400-h300/IMG_1414.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuff the Paccheri Tightly with Sauce</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVjHgpoVjEIGBWguBg3lo4xjFbVync7OAtaYvJ5EDYc3MtvrOeo4nIPGsPx4eldcm_ESEl-a0f0cG-7yTvHB2nfPLL-q_WP88klRbYrouXHFKJmiquFgy1jwucppvpcLPqKPX_LxIq07I1fU3nCP861AL3BUs79BMsaJakHaGSwXa5EtJZbxvhBywZ0uT/s2603/IMG_1415.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1952" data-original-width="2603" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVjHgpoVjEIGBWguBg3lo4xjFbVync7OAtaYvJ5EDYc3MtvrOeo4nIPGsPx4eldcm_ESEl-a0f0cG-7yTvHB2nfPLL-q_WP88klRbYrouXHFKJmiquFgy1jwucppvpcLPqKPX_LxIq07I1fU3nCP861AL3BUs79BMsaJakHaGSwXa5EtJZbxvhBywZ0uT/w400-h300/IMG_1415.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover the Top with Grated Mozzarella</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh88hrkj_MNVANI-fwjvmXSNojmXMnSSi6eFiQ2rkMHHKvkASttFGkzpDJfoefRjOd2UreC5FOW6yuCT2tw2vuKo5OpNz3BHllu8janiQNGMOvxoHfTIaULBw2JAFiIsECbh0vuKI3kUET4KKon_NQzfa0AzftziKYMO5eU6qhi0gsGU9YKLp2GKwCj_35y/s2624/IMG_1417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1968" data-original-width="2624" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh88hrkj_MNVANI-fwjvmXSNojmXMnSSi6eFiQ2rkMHHKvkASttFGkzpDJfoefRjOd2UreC5FOW6yuCT2tw2vuKo5OpNz3BHllu8janiQNGMOvxoHfTIaULBw2JAFiIsECbh0vuKI3kUET4KKon_NQzfa0AzftziKYMO5eU6qhi0gsGU9YKLp2GKwCj_35y/w400-h300/IMG_1417.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to Bake</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitflN5kaVEwRjU7xOLzyfkQBxIFpzXHr2LGEh-KacGzw8fRjPI10m_6cGvuX0tPVI189VnJN_i3h46e4dC74HPIHB2t-gTjULBGn21B1dkIwTBx7wLVXKIdtnUi5_8Rd3qiE5lIdoZx9t9okjXFsDlu8XGL0GhQEwvCLE746nasVt1T8C1o2QgFpP2c7L5/s3148/IMG_1418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2361" data-original-width="3148" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitflN5kaVEwRjU7xOLzyfkQBxIFpzXHr2LGEh-KacGzw8fRjPI10m_6cGvuX0tPVI189VnJN_i3h46e4dC74HPIHB2t-gTjULBGn21B1dkIwTBx7wLVXKIdtnUi5_8Rd3qiE5lIdoZx9t9okjXFsDlu8XGL0GhQEwvCLE746nasVt1T8C1o2QgFpP2c7L5/w400-h300/IMG_1418.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bake in a Moderate Oven Until Well Browned, About an Hour</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">This paccheri pie turned out to be a really fun dish to make and to eat and it seems like a great dish for company in that you can make it in advance and throw it in the oven at the last minute so that it can cook while you are mingling with your guests.</div></div><p></p></div></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-76583381667769672602024-01-02T13:56:00.000-08:002024-01-02T13:56:11.653-08:00Christmas 2023: The Word is "Subdued"<p>You know what? Colds suck.</p><p>Sometimes in life, all your plans end up for naught, what in the software business we used to call "overcome by events." This holiday season was such a time in our lives for Annie and me. We had all kinds of plans to celebrate with friends, to make some great food, and to open some really nice bottles of wine, not much of which happened.</p><p>Three days before Christmas, Ann started dragging and it just got worse. By Christmas Eve, she had a full-blown cold which took until the 30th to wear off, just in time to celebrate New Year's Eve with Rob and Dyce. New Year's Eve day, Dyce called to say that on the heels of their trip to Italy, he'd been sick and now Rob was down with it. So much for New Year's Eve; we pushed our celebration out to the first weekend in January, this coming weekend. </p><p>Ann planned to make a lot of different cookies to share with friends and neighbors, especially the lovely kids next door. She ended up only making one kind and I ended up baking them while she went to shower to try to make herself feel better. I spent an entire day making a beef ragù to stuff into paccheri pasta for a gathering at our house. We canceled that and the ragù sits in the refrigerator still. Christmas Eve, we were going to friends' house for smoked brisket and I was going to make a casserole of <i>pommes dauphinois</i>; we begged off.</p><p>Christmas Day, we were going to make a batch of some sort of Calabrese rolled pasta such as <i>fileja</i> with a spicy '<i>nduja </i>sauce. That didn't happen either. Just after Christmas, we were going to Yakima to see an old friend and spend the night exploring the beer of the Yakima Valley. I ended up going by myself, fighting horrible fog both ways, jamming the trip into a single day.</p><p>We had planned to pour some nice bottles for our holiday meals; they sit untouched in the cooler.</p><p>How does the old saying go? "Man plans and Fate laughs." Truth.</p><p>Here's what we did manage to accomplish for the holidays in spite of illness.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0rVYp94FLk1QGIDzxUk-1J3n2hUKakPlE3pWng_vVtR1Af8DkodlygJJjn8AjBiEcOR8EPTTit3KmpHltjC2gpSDnOYe9qlOKdRQgeAYzWsYZrrwwtbuS79b-NYBN1lNkQ4RxNE2uIHvWN-BYgm-LoYhgN29eGaNsvAdV707D7lbEmsgjFUpFeQ7DyIV/s2766/IMG_1382.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2074" data-original-width="2766" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH0rVYp94FLk1QGIDzxUk-1J3n2hUKakPlE3pWng_vVtR1Af8DkodlygJJjn8AjBiEcOR8EPTTit3KmpHltjC2gpSDnOYe9qlOKdRQgeAYzWsYZrrwwtbuS79b-NYBN1lNkQ4RxNE2uIHvWN-BYgm-LoYhgN29eGaNsvAdV707D7lbEmsgjFUpFeQ7DyIV/w400-h300/IMG_1382.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What Ann Calls "Monster Cookies," for the Neighbor Kids</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrm5UkVf5Is_pdKqTU0ItTwkCB00cf9XDiCNoQvrMAh7pPl2aPU23joBYQTWiR-NarVwkd-lRpBvGB7dpiCI2bDjiBl6kXMPC9p3JXheACPy2M1Bb4z2qoYyfonf92bTZgU0isu7Wtw0jEh6iOpKBLecxmlM2L4GYTVBVXn47Q1Sce9Rhw-9Kv_AebkYGB/s4032/IMG_1385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrm5UkVf5Is_pdKqTU0ItTwkCB00cf9XDiCNoQvrMAh7pPl2aPU23joBYQTWiR-NarVwkd-lRpBvGB7dpiCI2bDjiBl6kXMPC9p3JXheACPy2M1Bb4z2qoYyfonf92bTZgU0isu7Wtw0jEh6iOpKBLecxmlM2L4GYTVBVXn47Q1Sce9Rhw-9Kv_AebkYGB/w400-h300/IMG_1385.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzyqlhp807yyuJPFKm5M0NVFCT51qAnidsfgnncxfrRManucqwxN8vhSptua2C5kAx6St1npqiPmiuly5wbl3wskx4QwfAwo6MRt67hwanUS0EmiiiCD8oIFGnHIhQL8VHgNV53_XzfBi_mC34cF3OPGmmsj_jWYguvjrGfj-IcqdI2Hy_uDA3HhiZrUAK/s3214/IMG_1383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3214" data-original-width="2410" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzyqlhp807yyuJPFKm5M0NVFCT51qAnidsfgnncxfrRManucqwxN8vhSptua2C5kAx6St1npqiPmiuly5wbl3wskx4QwfAwo6MRt67hwanUS0EmiiiCD8oIFGnHIhQL8VHgNV53_XzfBi_mC34cF3OPGmmsj_jWYguvjrGfj-IcqdI2Hy_uDA3HhiZrUAK/w300-h400/IMG_1383.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Putting a Brave Face on Feeling Miserable</td></tr></tbody></table>Christmas Eve, we had no plans to dine at home, having been invited for brisket at our friends' house. We canceled first thing that morning, not wanting to infect anyone else. Still, Ann was trying to make herself feel better and asked me if I would get a loaf of bread and a La Tur cheese, then roast the piece of lamb shoulder that I had in the freezer. I obliged, but it just wasn't the same, the way she was feeling.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyn78coXMIQoL8Stm63zJuK4xsnOlxcR0rJNmWbIOMybQxPuUIvShLmcm_6N_8FgdwYmZ-nhrYA_dcRyuNmZMkIYV6Q9FkCP1xcuCHfiRS7lS2oAX5B9obsJpOME0K7Uuw_sU8vMoNnBSCj45FQHt03MGhurWOk4Cz-AxhWCaSHoYfv0jVV_rhpQmL5VUO/s2840/IMG_1386.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2130" data-original-width="2840" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyn78coXMIQoL8Stm63zJuK4xsnOlxcR0rJNmWbIOMybQxPuUIvShLmcm_6N_8FgdwYmZ-nhrYA_dcRyuNmZMkIYV6Q9FkCP1xcuCHfiRS7lS2oAX5B9obsJpOME0K7Uuw_sU8vMoNnBSCj45FQHt03MGhurWOk4Cz-AxhWCaSHoYfv0jVV_rhpQmL5VUO/w400-h300/IMG_1386.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Tur Cheese</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7WcaNjatsXCWuwHApl-6Ksh-K-sI92Dgj5x9_9X7hP5DsBhGsQtGbot-56joEVimCuT8xViZc4PNT8P1j-sjHAfB9pvk5glaffrb08ci-_luPqH_gyf0oLZ7v-8g2z58lsWCBvIRrz4A_xzOwlubZN_yTo-lQrXU1OIWLvtNGx9VirUDFDiHse-SJ8my7/s3181/IMG_1387.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2386" data-original-width="3181" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7WcaNjatsXCWuwHApl-6Ksh-K-sI92Dgj5x9_9X7hP5DsBhGsQtGbot-56joEVimCuT8xViZc4PNT8P1j-sjHAfB9pvk5glaffrb08ci-_luPqH_gyf0oLZ7v-8g2z58lsWCBvIRrz4A_xzOwlubZN_yTo-lQrXU1OIWLvtNGx9VirUDFDiHse-SJ8my7/w400-h300/IMG_1387.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roasted Local Lamb Shoulder<br />Served with Red Wine-Whole Grain Mustard Sauce</td></tr></tbody></table>Usually, I plan a nice brunch dish for Christmas Day, but with Ann not feeling well, I assumed breakfast was off. Later on in the day, she asked me for some eggs, so I made some creamy eggs with bacon, green onions, and Brie, stirred fairly constantly to make them medium-curd, an intermediate between the large curds that I normally do and the tiny curds of <i>oeufs brouillés</i> that I make every so often. These eggs were right sexy.<div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqiR1-8oQHXq923cWA0vO5NQx-8tv6FxMNAcsG-bbllxqa3D4TUfxq2s-Ttc_VHy6DvtxENwC4PiYHjPt1ESdspxaGhUGtxfCarG1XXYLZy5CVu88VwmoYcJ-jrxQgUUiLglZiQ51Vx2lEDRkQHgecimWaUeV76KFbC-0soSkeuvtMqbJHQe-OySKmJvp/s4032/IMG_1389.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqiR1-8oQHXq923cWA0vO5NQx-8tv6FxMNAcsG-bbllxqa3D4TUfxq2s-Ttc_VHy6DvtxENwC4PiYHjPt1ESdspxaGhUGtxfCarG1XXYLZy5CVu88VwmoYcJ-jrxQgUUiLglZiQ51Vx2lEDRkQHgecimWaUeV76KFbC-0soSkeuvtMqbJHQe-OySKmJvp/w400-h300/IMG_1389.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">French Scramble with Bacon, Green Onions, and Brie</td></tr></tbody></table>Fortunately, we got our tree the second week of December and had plenty of time to decorate it before Ann fell ill. Otherwise, we probably wouldn't have bothered. We have retired all the old ornaments and are starting over with a food and drink-themed tree. If you enlarge the photo below, you can see that all of the garland is made from beads and wine corks, thanks to many years of effort by great friend Donald.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsYmHu4H7A-bsZF2IShGc0q_1LZg1BmWXHnUPCWw9K-hKi4j0X7_xtQe0ZKwKAS4eOLWlI9jQVIrGMaFpzN6qTN9WAeTrIE_QTVjrvgQkXKrzqs-nOlqMd5uq4JmRbDhZcStYvLcKdYpB2tYPBy8B5jU8uwRqvZCg76fjvomezYZrqInMtccs8wJxJpmuU/s4032/IMG_1391.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsYmHu4H7A-bsZF2IShGc0q_1LZg1BmWXHnUPCWw9K-hKi4j0X7_xtQe0ZKwKAS4eOLWlI9jQVIrGMaFpzN6qTN9WAeTrIE_QTVjrvgQkXKrzqs-nOlqMd5uq4JmRbDhZcStYvLcKdYpB2tYPBy8B5jU8uwRqvZCg76fjvomezYZrqInMtccs8wJxJpmuU/w300-h400/IMG_1391.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg704E9j2-_Oe5RQcXMNauRf6HAFDHlJgo934_Ar5pF11hfBbVX-QjeonO57DLWrHnJC24JzZdnLroUDcgzsQIdb9xTk8mjduF_Bv7Z2eViHCgyuMr_dWO9ADLgoIwb7yyJ_SvJ00wIRvkC6BIw4voHNqoqOXwJkoAB0y0M_FbLIpbtkPrqegcBt8Z3dPNY/s3028/IMG_1392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3028" data-original-width="2271" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg704E9j2-_Oe5RQcXMNauRf6HAFDHlJgo934_Ar5pF11hfBbVX-QjeonO57DLWrHnJC24JzZdnLroUDcgzsQIdb9xTk8mjduF_Bv7Z2eViHCgyuMr_dWO9ADLgoIwb7yyJ_SvJ00wIRvkC6BIw4voHNqoqOXwJkoAB0y0M_FbLIpbtkPrqegcBt8Z3dPNY/w300-h400/IMG_1392.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't You Have a Garlic Ornament on Your Tree?</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZqD60sOQFO1MQA93qIbVBF3AYQTmhrCmguPFdlAaWwgaK8HYjVDG9Musezk_KiOlz-MkLrjv6ilNg60VlmumTu9ShI4mizetzT7x-PgGy3MjlZyjiesdfnq2HMlfkJIrYab64JHl-0jesESl7VoxgQpKXscUQeaVU4HBb1bAnUBumOpntDyyMqepLSCDy/s3235/IMG_1394.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3235" data-original-width="2426" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZqD60sOQFO1MQA93qIbVBF3AYQTmhrCmguPFdlAaWwgaK8HYjVDG9Musezk_KiOlz-MkLrjv6ilNg60VlmumTu9ShI4mizetzT7x-PgGy3MjlZyjiesdfnq2HMlfkJIrYab64JHl-0jesESl7VoxgQpKXscUQeaVU4HBb1bAnUBumOpntDyyMqepLSCDy/w300-h400/IMG_1394.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home Sweet Home!</td></tr></tbody></table>Christmas Day, Ann and I had planned to make a spicy batch of homemade pasta for which I had ordered some 'nduja, that spicy spreadable salame from Calabria. I had given up on making dinner, just planning to graze out of the refrigerator, but late in the afternoon, Ann asked if I would make a simple, non-spicy pasta for us for dinner. And, so I obliged her with the simplest pasta I know, <i>amatriciana</i>, with only three ingredients: guanciale, tomato passata, and salt.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNKiHoExl2d2-H0efiUyeQ3sH2gz4Tv6oxhYNmWv54XUCdwB1zz8PpEYbV6P98OYzZN0mqpByBzGz2YCdOFGpHLUnOjjT-Mj0frzl_44GGuj_g2H-4g26s3ov4XKSDTx8gy8dxS4gCgqs0pF75K7xgvKJ9H-m04_N-S0G0iCwcMLxGyGP7tw3r0Bf9Q28/s3350/IMG_1397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2512" data-original-width="3350" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNKiHoExl2d2-H0efiUyeQ3sH2gz4Tv6oxhYNmWv54XUCdwB1zz8PpEYbV6P98OYzZN0mqpByBzGz2YCdOFGpHLUnOjjT-Mj0frzl_44GGuj_g2H-4g26s3ov4XKSDTx8gy8dxS4gCgqs0pF75K7xgvKJ9H-m04_N-S0G0iCwcMLxGyGP7tw3r0Bf9Q28/w400-h300/IMG_1397.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rendering Guanciale for Amatriciana Sauce</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7F4P5Bqr8R3Sgx61fUgbq9TqNgsTWkFdaLvc1UQEObrRvsPZ3q3spysegkW0ymtaWwzHEjXUh_qILxHi4N2bWG9DTY9k9JwqIrr3HtSNF4hFjSSwfrOXAmiuRghpPuvUN0ssUtq1FSearRAmcaWFAOn0NcIp0RG6fAH55W5FLhNhHmwk408KeUXTOIQDO/s2253/IMG_1399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1690" data-original-width="2253" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7F4P5Bqr8R3Sgx61fUgbq9TqNgsTWkFdaLvc1UQEObrRvsPZ3q3spysegkW0ymtaWwzHEjXUh_qILxHi4N2bWG9DTY9k9JwqIrr3HtSNF4hFjSSwfrOXAmiuRghpPuvUN0ssUtq1FSearRAmcaWFAOn0NcIp0RG6fAH55W5FLhNhHmwk408KeUXTOIQDO/w400-h300/IMG_1399.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spicy 'Nduja, Left for Another Occasion</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwYKwVK5jgkei6U5YizEfTMkUG85b-p46wClau1mBdUjJKjAIOHggv0fuOALVJ2EuMlaFsfJ4L5_upa2VoA0xe_Fyxu2x0CCT8nWrthwUCgmN5k0JASD1gNs48C7Y1dehPzXZJmOmxY0xxubaQdjFVcwE6Cp2jTpJbGW67RfhDpacXyxiFZXx44tMumyiY/s3492/IMG_1400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2619" data-original-width="3492" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwYKwVK5jgkei6U5YizEfTMkUG85b-p46wClau1mBdUjJKjAIOHggv0fuOALVJ2EuMlaFsfJ4L5_upa2VoA0xe_Fyxu2x0CCT8nWrthwUCgmN5k0JASD1gNs48C7Y1dehPzXZJmOmxY0xxubaQdjFVcwE6Cp2jTpJbGW67RfhDpacXyxiFZXx44tMumyiY/w400-h300/IMG_1400.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did a Rat Take a Bite out of the Pecorino?<br />No, That's a Clear Sign that Ann Was in the Cheese</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsiw7hgCabQ9M6dzSOHnDytnp_3LdvPxfc5szrUhOhuVf9g4ivY6D078wMnc9eY5mxFnRjeTRv0iVQG_ZjBvHDxMuNfKEERVgmQSNq-YggGn-vSRlgzhCQH8Ir0yIAaZXeo5EjgOLUyIeD64NRPd0Zt3sqYBw0dKFt2dNE0uxK1NXqH-dSIBJ9Jc9t4_KQ/s3737/IMG_1401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2803" data-original-width="3737" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsiw7hgCabQ9M6dzSOHnDytnp_3LdvPxfc5szrUhOhuVf9g4ivY6D078wMnc9eY5mxFnRjeTRv0iVQG_ZjBvHDxMuNfKEERVgmQSNq-YggGn-vSRlgzhCQH8Ir0yIAaZXeo5EjgOLUyIeD64NRPd0Zt3sqYBw0dKFt2dNE0uxK1NXqH-dSIBJ9Jc9t4_KQ/w400-h300/IMG_1401.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penne Amatriciana</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBxb5OrNWIvRZyAODmS6z8ske-4dYT1KaaXYOBrNUdfHLHaB75WUcZAzY2P4wcGOm8KOLs6PWn0AE2yuTCqhF3Ms6n_oTokDezcHnROum8oMtLL48nRwWmPm4YGMFN4fDqDTOQ8SZbFR6bNjoNt1moV1LbCSdHFbMv3ZtU-rrsxeOqecxRbQwThgsvBSEl/s3563/IMG_1396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3563" data-original-width="2672" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBxb5OrNWIvRZyAODmS6z8ske-4dYT1KaaXYOBrNUdfHLHaB75WUcZAzY2P4wcGOm8KOLs6PWn0AE2yuTCqhF3Ms6n_oTokDezcHnROum8oMtLL48nRwWmPm4YGMFN4fDqDTOQ8SZbFR6bNjoNt1moV1LbCSdHFbMv3ZtU-rrsxeOqecxRbQwThgsvBSEl/w300-h400/IMG_1396.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicious Sancerre Rouge</td></tr></tbody></table>We didn't open any of the really good bottles for the holidays, but with our amatriciana, we did open a fairly obscure red Sancerre which was delicious and stylistically very different from our Oregon Pinots, the relatively big tannins and high acid working well with the pasta sauce.<br /><p>So for our holidays in 2023, things just didn't go as planned. But that is life. Nothing is ever perfect and all you can do is play the hand you are dealt the best that you are able. I think Ann and I did a pretty good job making the best of our marginal hand, even if things were subdued. I'm just sorry that she felt so rotten the entire time.</p></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-24111519572497864802023-12-18T10:16:00.000-08:002023-12-30T11:51:39.706-08:00Beer with Four-Legged Friends<p>Ann and I love living in Bend. One of the attractions for us is one of the best <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/p/bend-beer-scene.html" target="_blank">beer scenes</a> in the country, especially if you love West Coast IPAs as much as we do. We've lived here in Bend now coming right up in days on two years. And we spent much of the first year exploring all the outlets for great beer in town.</p><p>In year two, however, we really stopped making the rounds of breweries. We stopped because we have found a home away from home at Crosscut Warming Hut across the street from the Box Factory. We know the staff there and a lot of the regulars with whom we sit and catch up. And we appreciate the daily-changing line-up of great Oregon beers with the occasional beer from Washington or California.</p><p>Just last week, we were taking advantage of our rather mild weather by sitting out at a fire pit in front of Crosscut right on Industrial Way. It was late afternoon (not all that late in the day given that the sun is now setting before 4:30pm) when I looked up and spied four mule deer emerge out of the trees just feet across the street from us.</p><p>Now there is certainly nothing unique about this: mule deer are everywhere in Bend. But even to our somewhat deer-jaded group around the fire pit, there seemed to be something magical about the deer being in such close proximity, despite our seeing them almost daily. Ann was moved to take a few photos with her iPhone; sadly they are grainy because of the low light conditions.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9PRmAr0qvlVxX0p5OVfDibnVw9ZTc-19_ELKKc8N0zvz5TCsXT_flMa8iqEt4tdw4E1foJ6084xcAdBvXAdhEqLttruaRNk6XYzDTWJk4bbZZQvziOV_9tZRGUC_T0FOmJ24z3nE0Sg13uWV01bdx5jJ4gVNWA0jQ1YOOHd00-lTcOmkJKkCX-IPhKKZ/s2866/IMG_1124.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2150" data-original-width="2866" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9PRmAr0qvlVxX0p5OVfDibnVw9ZTc-19_ELKKc8N0zvz5TCsXT_flMa8iqEt4tdw4E1foJ6084xcAdBvXAdhEqLttruaRNk6XYzDTWJk4bbZZQvziOV_9tZRGUC_T0FOmJ24z3nE0Sg13uWV01bdx5jJ4gVNWA0jQ1YOOHd00-lTcOmkJKkCX-IPhKKZ/w400-h300/IMG_1124.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINIT0GSqoLOYn2VAqhA3YPPRTO_z-Q0XE1kFATPVCurs4yMQuAG5IRDtaFXfiC_wZkF30ENgxj_r8XEIU5qtoy_-dOIjVChBhBiBUF_bU8URgzxqqbGuKe49JeRf-F0a0CVMmrzQbWkHFEQyFI9Kz3RHzsVwv7Ve8aqL9ob8BJRp_CYf6KS50Mia_0uCl/s1837/IMG_1122.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1378" data-original-width="1837" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhINIT0GSqoLOYn2VAqhA3YPPRTO_z-Q0XE1kFATPVCurs4yMQuAG5IRDtaFXfiC_wZkF30ENgxj_r8XEIU5qtoy_-dOIjVChBhBiBUF_bU8URgzxqqbGuKe49JeRf-F0a0CVMmrzQbWkHFEQyFI9Kz3RHzsVwv7Ve8aqL9ob8BJRp_CYf6KS50Mia_0uCl/w400-h300/IMG_1122.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Despite having hit a deer a year ago and despite having to scout the roadway very carefully, especially in the fall and early winter during rut, we still love having these gentle creatures around. We feel very fortunate to live in a town where we see deer walking down the sidewalk in front of the house, not ten feet away from us. We look forward to spring (late May and June at this elevation) when the spotted little fawns will accompany the adults.</p><p>And I will never forget back in October when driving home from Crosscut that a massive buck and two does walked right across the street in front of my truck, forcing me to stop. The rack on this guy was as wide as the hood of my truck. I have never seen such a venerable old beast as he.</p><p>Beer and deer: two great reasons to live here in Bend, Oregon!</p>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-50636716996393121082023-12-18T09:50:00.000-08:002023-12-18T09:50:58.801-08:00Porcini Onions for Steak<p>Ann loves steak. Ed does not love it. What to do?</p><p>When I say that I do not love steak, it does not mean that I do not like the flavor of it, that I have some moral objection to it, or that I will not eat it. To the contrary: I like the flavor of steak; I am OK that we raise these animals for food; and, I certainly will eat steak, but I prefer pork or lamb or duck.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4EqgFR-L5nvhWIAJEqIZiIChPa2uBjC58Toklimrh9mIyi_rgCZEB65Mtd44XFhhKEXz9ONpL8v27xEzhQLRieU2pIc6-dYKISBHNIJnvRSv2tH5t89pyURMBXmQyuw4eYWuPxPMBiAmV7aDtgB9qsTEZRcAmEEm_68ZE3r06yiO0Ch0mj5RpxTKSVbe/s839/IMG_1138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="839" data-original-width="671" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4EqgFR-L5nvhWIAJEqIZiIChPa2uBjC58Toklimrh9mIyi_rgCZEB65Mtd44XFhhKEXz9ONpL8v27xEzhQLRieU2pIc6-dYKISBHNIJnvRSv2tH5t89pyURMBXmQyuw4eYWuPxPMBiAmV7aDtgB9qsTEZRcAmEEm_68ZE3r06yiO0Ch0mj5RpxTKSVbe/w320-h400/IMG_1138.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strip Steaks with Porcini Onions and Beurre Rouge</td></tr></tbody></table>My not loving steak has to do with a few things, I believe, if I am to dig down in my mind. First, as a retired professional chef, I have cooked many thousands and thousands of steaks. Perhaps familiarity breeds contempt. Perhaps also, it annoyed me that so many people ordered steak rather than the more creative dishes on the menu. Ultimately, we stopped serving steak altogether at the restaurant, moving more to a seven-course tasting format that had no room for honking slabs of beef.<p>Also, braising is my favorite style of cooking. There is something incredible that happens when you cook a tough protein slowly for hours and hours that elevates that protein to food nirvana status. I love the fork tender nature of long-cooked beef and for me, that texture wins out each time over steak.</p><p>More importantly though, I think, is that my palate loves flavor and big, bold flavor at that. And while I appreciate the umami-laden flavor of a finely raised, aged, and cooked steak, there are a gazillion other foods that would appeal more to my palate.</p><p>Finally, I grew up without money. Beef in general and steak in particular were luxuries that never graced our table. Historically, the fiscally conservative part of me had always found that steak was priced out of my budget. It was more important to save money for my kid's college education than it was to eat steak.</p><p>But fast forward to the present day in which I do the grocery shopping for our house. My doing the shopping really started during COVID when Ann was confined to the house for fear of infection and has continued ever since. Prior to that, I was running a restaurant and Ann did the food shopping. I was never home during meal times, however.</p><p>Truth also be told, Ann does not like my style of shopping which is to make an exact list of what I want in the order that it appears on the store's shelves, to get in the store and make a beeline from one needed ingredient to the next, and to get out as efficiently as possible. I am certain that this stems from the restaurant days when I had almost zero time to make weekly forays to buy certain things at retail that were not available from our farmers and foragers or not convenient to order from distributors.</p><p>In contrast, it seems to me that shopping for Ann is more closely akin to entertainment. It seems to amuse her to bounce all over the store looking at everything quite apparently at random. Given that I find little joy in the chore of shopping, we chafe at each other's shopping style. But I digress.</p><p>Because I do the shopping and the bulk of the weekly menu planning, beef really isn't ever on my shopping radar, which has caused Ann to become increasingly more vocal about the lack of beef in our diet. I believe that she would eat steak several nights a week if she had her druthers.</p><p>Knowing that I am not the sole arbiter of our diet, I have been making a conscious effort of late to bring home beef from the store at least a couple times a month. To wit, I made <a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2023/12/dreaming-of-italy.html" target="_blank">ossobuco</a> last week and this week, I brought home some decent looking strip steaks.</p><p>We were sitting on the sofa, both knowing that steak was on the night's menu and sipping a rare bottle of Cab (generally, too heavy for us and we prefer lighter grapes such as Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, and Sangiovese). Suddenly, Ann mentioned somewhat wistfully and seemingly out of nowhere, "I'd really love some mushrooms with the onions for the steak."</p><p>We had already discussed onions for the steak and I was going to quasi-caramelize some to have with the beef. Mushrooms were a new wrinkle and one that I was almost unprepared for.</p><p>I do not like and cannot really abide the ubiquitous common mushrooms in both their color forms: white mushrooms (<i>champignons de Paris</i>) and the brown portobello/cremini form. My dislike is mostly textural; unless these mushrooms are seared really hard, I find them off-puttingly rubbery. And there is also the flavor that I cannot tolerate; even the smell of these mushrooms makes me gag a bit.</p><p>Interestingly and paradoxically enough, I do really like a lot of wild mushrooms as well as cultivated shiitake. Kings among the wild mushrooms for me are porcini, which I mainly love in their dried state as drying really concentrates and improves their flavor. So, I always keep a canister of wickedly expensive dried porcini in the pantry.</p><p>To sate Ann's desire for mushrooms, I grabbed the remaining handful of porcini from the pantry and put them to rehydrate in a bowl of water. And to keep dinner simple, I decided to chop those porcini and add them and their rehydrating liquid to a couple of sliced yellow onions that had been sweating and nearing caramelization on the range for the past hour.</p><p>The outcome, once the porcini liquid was reduced to nothing, was an incredible mushroom and onion umami bomb for our steaks. Now having discovered this, I want to keep it in my culinary arsenal and that means keeping it top of mind, hence this post.</p><p>Over the years, we had done many onion-based condiments for steak at the restaurant, all much more complex than simple mix of porcini and onions. For example, we used to cook down an incredible onion and bacon jam with stout. I loved it as a condiment on its own, but something always nagged at me about the smoky bacon flavor with steak. I love bacon on my cheeseburger, but I always found that the bacony jam clashed a bit with our fantastic steaks. I think I have silenced that little nagging inner voice (chefs are highly self-critical) forever with this simple mushroom and onion condiment.</p>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-29396377550160475712023-12-12T10:26:00.000-08:002023-12-12T14:03:52.527-08:00Good Times: A Mutt of an Italian Meal<p>Ann and I, like most Americans, love Italian food, especially peasant food, <i>cucina povere</i>, for its simple and honest flavors. Unlike most Americans, however, we would almost never go out to eat at an Italian restaurant. Why pay for food that is so easy to make better at home? Although I don't think we necessarily set out to have an Italian-themed dinner, it turned out so and the saga follows.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCsxW63S2EAwULsbUl3-28nn1PYAk42SeSNb52a5Xt71MbqC-QvDNGoHsz3fQcQGFzpY1UDZ0H-Z9XERFgsgR_vX8uMwxb2z1q_G477hCqjRwaW_ecmqbZ85JI41K6nQyRRuiUGYIxa1HLpvtWTWusvmMyTud5nKgt8WojbNW8xEq_hlLQbIEw91UpNkAh/s2835/IMG_1344.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2835" data-original-width="2126" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCsxW63S2EAwULsbUl3-28nn1PYAk42SeSNb52a5Xt71MbqC-QvDNGoHsz3fQcQGFzpY1UDZ0H-Z9XERFgsgR_vX8uMwxb2z1q_G477hCqjRwaW_ecmqbZ85JI41K6nQyRRuiUGYIxa1HLpvtWTWusvmMyTud5nKgt8WojbNW8xEq_hlLQbIEw91UpNkAh/w300-h400/IMG_1344.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What's Better Than Chianti Classico?<br />A Jeroboam of Chianti Classico Riserva!</td></tr></tbody></table>Ann's a full-blooded Italian, no matter how you slice it. She's adopted. Her birth parents are both <i>napoletani</i> and her adoptive parents are <i>calabrese </i>and <i>barese </i>(<i>pugliese</i>) respectively. So she's spicy and opinionated southern Italian through and through. You would think that the menus that she comes up with would be southern-inflected, but really, she has no problem mixing and matching from the various corners of Italy, something that would be frowned upon in the old country. I don't know that she set out to have an Italian dinner, but that's where we ended up after she asked me to make <i>braciole</i>.<p>Such is our menu planning that Ann asks "Will you make this?" and I do. Sometimes I throw in an idea or two or a refinement here and there, but mostly because I can and will cook anything, more often than not, I leave the broad strokes of the menu to Ann. If it pleases her to have a dish, I am pleased to make it for her. I think I may have suggested <i>gnocchi alla romana</i> as a sop for the braciole braising sauce, but I no longer remember. It was a tag-team effort in both menu composition and cooking.</p><p>The menu in this cold, pre-Christmas season for our quasi-holiday dinner before our friends all get wrapped up in their own holiday travels and plans is pretty much all down to Ann. We split the cooking. For our antipasto, I whipped up a batch of <i>bagna càuda</i> from Piemonte via Provence in France. For dinner, Ann made a primo of baked polenta, also from the north in Lombardia and neighbors, while I made a secondo of <i>braciole</i>, a dish from Calabria and Sicilia (where the little meat bundles are called <i>involtini</i>). And for the dolce course, Ann made a ricotta cheesecake, cosmopolitan to Italy with Greek origins. So, quite naturally, the wine we selected was from Tuscany, just to further mix up the regions!</p><p>Hence the title of this post: a mutt of an Italian meal. And I mean this is the best of ways. Although there can be some pejorative meaning to the word mutt, as dog lovers, Ann and I know that the non-purebred dogs, the rescue mutts from the shelters, are often the best dogs combining the best traits of many breeds. And by extension, we hope our menu combines the best of the many regions of Italy.</p><p>Ann decided for this dinner that we should be a bit more formal than most of our meals that are consumed around the island in the kitchen, so she set a beautiful, simple, and tasteful table in the dining room. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsbyefJfWrTGHOohbHKOwEZBTidaJOEmGmfcqkatUsdEA64KZKUN9Wji9wkbUJ-8ukQSzk9X0nA6N9JgZrmfbB-ls7ue_0irWbtzW7rJBA9z6HGMWJ7lmyN2-rwPO9wZrPSjCUUAICVHB6IcB_6_K3GnQd-EOQpQhDJEvZWCldYsqf7S0bnAsByM3wVt_/s3908/IMG_1341.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2931" data-original-width="3908" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsbyefJfWrTGHOohbHKOwEZBTidaJOEmGmfcqkatUsdEA64KZKUN9Wji9wkbUJ-8ukQSzk9X0nA6N9JgZrmfbB-ls7ue_0irWbtzW7rJBA9z6HGMWJ7lmyN2-rwPO9wZrPSjCUUAICVHB6IcB_6_K3GnQd-EOQpQhDJEvZWCldYsqf7S0bnAsByM3wVt_/w400-h300/IMG_1341.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoGniHxUEL1TLLrxZzktfmWGvsZ7stJl8tQMDzUIrb719gB3tgWQ55Fxbsy0iwgD5XBe2GKPBZgAHVVAsowC9DfkluHBSo7Iwq3X1PqE3fC59Wk7k-P6WUbG6e0AToKXy0nCoPNPrkB2HFk0TCbZCC9ez3bJi9APkAhS598T_vT3dsmdsHI2Lh4dhOH6NQ/s3588/IMG_1342.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3588" data-original-width="2691" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoGniHxUEL1TLLrxZzktfmWGvsZ7stJl8tQMDzUIrb719gB3tgWQ55Fxbsy0iwgD5XBe2GKPBZgAHVVAsowC9DfkluHBSo7Iwq3X1PqE3fC59Wk7k-P6WUbG6e0AToKXy0nCoPNPrkB2HFk0TCbZCC9ez3bJi9APkAhS598T_vT3dsmdsHI2Lh4dhOH6NQ/w300-h400/IMG_1342.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif-nv7bBmeNsLyMkisevcw_WV8nrXmMvb_hBRBNHVcGaMI6f5N2qxHELcMP513kPrOXgL3EtQb4I7kvab6xVg5_EUM-Efi9Er9JT6ND_DbfjYThyKEFVK6Jtx_rld-jJXW0AprxRmym9LX5EZhaeBhAu-9umvrgMhRHaapylGEHtTxYKhEeS3JTn6IYwVi/s2523/IMG_1347.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1892" data-original-width="2523" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif-nv7bBmeNsLyMkisevcw_WV8nrXmMvb_hBRBNHVcGaMI6f5N2qxHELcMP513kPrOXgL3EtQb4I7kvab6xVg5_EUM-Efi9Er9JT6ND_DbfjYThyKEFVK6Jtx_rld-jJXW0AprxRmym9LX5EZhaeBhAu-9umvrgMhRHaapylGEHtTxYKhEeS3JTn6IYwVi/w400-h300/IMG_1347.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>As guests Rob and Dyce and Michelle and Andreas were arriving, I was reheating the pot of bagna càuda on a low flame so that it would be good and hot for our appetizer course. If you speak any Romance language at all, you will recognize the term bagna càuda in the <i>piemontese </i>dialect means "hot bath." And indeed, bagna càuda is a hot bath into which to dip bread and/or crudités, typically bitter vegetables such as chicories (endives) and cardoons. For our little soirée, I used what I had in the refrigerator: sweet peppers, carrots, celery, and cucumbers.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpGffi-2usMNaYbEmEUuzZgnr17rCclDxNutqPiTCtMx7ZQBcRJogOIdgvrRWo7cVicNjVDcddhRk_QLehQcbyOBLjc3ZaYrwV-7vfcrX7_reEIte3yrTylYRaQVwi771e2X0hkdJo3IPlhpK9kARZKFbBKidpk4hXGy9lOhwpY2nXpsEtaRB_igpaioG/s2795/IMG_1350.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2096" data-original-width="2795" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRpGffi-2usMNaYbEmEUuzZgnr17rCclDxNutqPiTCtMx7ZQBcRJogOIdgvrRWo7cVicNjVDcddhRk_QLehQcbyOBLjc3ZaYrwV-7vfcrX7_reEIte3yrTylYRaQVwi771e2X0hkdJo3IPlhpK9kARZKFbBKidpk4hXGy9lOhwpY2nXpsEtaRB_igpaioG/w400-h300/IMG_1350.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh70myY6j87vCYu7QywZKHoCBOpn_o9_kAAvtpv3BxVh6V8zVb3wBO1OZM3oIEF_jQMr1SEQMbLHUxFTs_l1m6-e22f1D_sZjhVUukFNDFUdP30VNQYDwaSyFOFOVb63PFumm2NpmIG9aU9OSMDkEAOAoTU8XHxgh_kjW-6c2piCxVRJT5zfg0GXz3IrY1s/s3735/IMG_1352.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2801" data-original-width="3735" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh70myY6j87vCYu7QywZKHoCBOpn_o9_kAAvtpv3BxVh6V8zVb3wBO1OZM3oIEF_jQMr1SEQMbLHUxFTs_l1m6-e22f1D_sZjhVUukFNDFUdP30VNQYDwaSyFOFOVb63PFumm2NpmIG9aU9OSMDkEAOAoTU8XHxgh_kjW-6c2piCxVRJT5zfg0GXz3IrY1s/w400-h300/IMG_1352.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj15nYMeHOVa4xtXNvM5iUIeDyuHfaV6fUrWaiafZaDId8Yhs1eu0aZzq-L6f1mkiVGluOxC2gy1ROK4tts6Ibzi9fZXY57X0x2_73yt46YjF6ALPlUe5OPoRP6CN732smmJ2acohWFg_pxpDm6mhAa5xfguB6AExBW5gP7dCFe1nN9gK94iH230_x2nHV9/s4032/IMG_1349.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj15nYMeHOVa4xtXNvM5iUIeDyuHfaV6fUrWaiafZaDId8Yhs1eu0aZzq-L6f1mkiVGluOxC2gy1ROK4tts6Ibzi9fZXY57X0x2_73yt46YjF6ALPlUe5OPoRP6CN732smmJ2acohWFg_pxpDm6mhAa5xfguB6AExBW5gP7dCFe1nN9gK94iH230_x2nHV9/w400-h300/IMG_1349.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unappetizing Looking Bagna Càuda</td></tr></tbody></table><div>Now on to what bagna càuda is for those of you who have not experienced this culinary delight that looks much like oily mud, nearly off-putting in appearance by all accounts. It is a mix of three ingredients: anchovies, garlic, and olive oil. The amalgam of these three ingredients is way more than the sum of the three individual ingredients, but you have to allow yourself to try it without prejudice. Only then can you decide if it is for you.</div><div><br /></div><div>If you think a salty, funky, umami-laden oily mix of anchovies and garlic is a culinary delight, you are welcome at our table. Otherwise, maybe take a hard pass on dinner at our house where we make food for people who like to eat anything and everything.</div><div><br /></div><div>My canonical recipe (actually, it is a ratio, not a recipe) for bagna càuda is one head of garlic to 3 tins of anchovies (90-100 grams) to one-half cup (100-125ml) of extra virgin olive oil. Step one is to soften the garlic so that you can make a paste of it. I like to do so by poaching it in milk and after the milk is drained away, I mash the garlic with a wooden spoon. Then I add the anchovies and heat them a bit over low flame to get them falling apart, then add the oil. If you like (as I like), rather than stirring and stirring, use an immersion blender to smooth out the sauce. Serve warm to hot.</div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JXXAKWT6jyoxnWDaUhKtCVMQNDKUpmJL6SWd3U6IQrRBxJhQkXcgX-Rh00mQQZUJCQAKrEUW9XXhA1CqFvtcapXBtiRqAN-innf22dy0GtK_7PBNubfvafkb3D4hwV-6g6J36uxXUboW8t3vEYcupKjqMkt1C27tl0KUI2BifEXKpqbtKudxtabGqwrP/s2182/IMG_1336.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1636" data-original-width="2182" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8JXXAKWT6jyoxnWDaUhKtCVMQNDKUpmJL6SWd3U6IQrRBxJhQkXcgX-Rh00mQQZUJCQAKrEUW9XXhA1CqFvtcapXBtiRqAN-innf22dy0GtK_7PBNubfvafkb3D4hwV-6g6J36uxXUboW8t3vEYcupKjqMkt1C27tl0KUI2BifEXKpqbtKudxtabGqwrP/w400-h300/IMG_1336.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Poaching Garlic in Milk</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWnEJPGWcbaDbn0uPXZIAFmXRRVAuUUvGBBsxFcf3zvzY6qxPW2f-kmDplfKSgKjfdyod4RF5V2cTvVuorsOmGsPu_LoFgVK_8XhyHbavrjAgLpY6sExlmGFpP6nqwk7aIsTE-pB_upx5tkG7HDF-BSSyvSaL0GbRmbxhLoyADzoJxjZckIZwiFZdRqBP/s3973/IMG_1339.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2980" data-original-width="3973" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWnEJPGWcbaDbn0uPXZIAFmXRRVAuUUvGBBsxFcf3zvzY6qxPW2f-kmDplfKSgKjfdyod4RF5V2cTvVuorsOmGsPu_LoFgVK_8XhyHbavrjAgLpY6sExlmGFpP6nqwk7aIsTE-pB_upx5tkG7HDF-BSSyvSaL0GbRmbxhLoyADzoJxjZckIZwiFZdRqBP/w400-h300/IMG_1339.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mashed Garlic Awaiting Anchovies</td></tr></tbody></table>While we were in the kitchen dipping our veggies in bagna càuda and washing it down with the double magnum of Chianti, the braciole and the polenta were both in the oven finishing up. At some point in the evening, I pulled them both out of the oven and we grabbed our glasses of wine and headed to the dining room to grab our plates to fill them with dinner.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgte2OLVs9ijk6b6CxQ9WdIB7gNxKilNnYA3gQl-MKfVrjFfUFTcmQzl4W0TE6MMm8Ff_g1Zk5fAanxgbKsoYX8V9YTPPSWmgP-jkOFbQXPsFFCyar_lCKX1DRee0oMt418drfDu3fdqWzuigdb_QZymFYnryI5yHFXDECloaze3WYvMqb6pNgmUucQq0YA/s3151/IMG_1355.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2363" data-original-width="3151" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgte2OLVs9ijk6b6CxQ9WdIB7gNxKilNnYA3gQl-MKfVrjFfUFTcmQzl4W0TE6MMm8Ff_g1Zk5fAanxgbKsoYX8V9YTPPSWmgP-jkOFbQXPsFFCyar_lCKX1DRee0oMt418drfDu3fdqWzuigdb_QZymFYnryI5yHFXDECloaze3WYvMqb6pNgmUucQq0YA/w400-h300/IMG_1355.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Braciole in Marinara, Baked Polenta</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik6rs2nG6yHmwUcnIPVIsNlVjrwVJ-OtQgFU_2YCmU-cH3nnohtRKgR5AvzFtjZ_hWvqSR5yfC6Bl5WaRsYhrQRf6lo_B4Jt1TwhdKl5qBEmBbBWPuFB4mB5DdjNfo7iJRhPGjhOv5KZUXF8whX9tJSAcIWkX_umVkMv33H_hyOLdAeZZLnpWj17KtI3pJ/s3399/IMG_1354.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2549" data-original-width="3399" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik6rs2nG6yHmwUcnIPVIsNlVjrwVJ-OtQgFU_2YCmU-cH3nnohtRKgR5AvzFtjZ_hWvqSR5yfC6Bl5WaRsYhrQRf6lo_B4Jt1TwhdKl5qBEmBbBWPuFB4mB5DdjNfo7iJRhPGjhOv5KZUXF8whX9tJSAcIWkX_umVkMv33H_hyOLdAeZZLnpWj17KtI3pJ/w400-h300/IMG_1354.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Braciole in Marinara</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix5Aoy5kmfR0UWB6v8-N64WSKUQbOkmsXImTyCNi9OaT_APGq4-pQWhy-qbDsUhUYcwBtwKwNRwaOPCbl9u5p6BKPHZHx3beLcS1dAZf7VO6O6iQPUeIBd2ALWCJEcU05838BrYK2ZbV0p3Lk-qsxMTulXJD5bEk49zogxgM7M0UDOuB7RK0VmLg4nP1bN/s3802/IMG_1353.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2852" data-original-width="3802" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix5Aoy5kmfR0UWB6v8-N64WSKUQbOkmsXImTyCNi9OaT_APGq4-pQWhy-qbDsUhUYcwBtwKwNRwaOPCbl9u5p6BKPHZHx3beLcS1dAZf7VO6O6iQPUeIBd2ALWCJEcU05838BrYK2ZbV0p3Lk-qsxMTulXJD5bEk49zogxgM7M0UDOuB7RK0VmLg4nP1bN/w400-h300/IMG_1353.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baked Polenta</td></tr></tbody></table><div>Making braciole is relatively simple, but it does take some effort and patience. While it is more traditionally made from beef, such as flank cut thin, I prefer to make it out of pork shoulder which I find more flavorful and more tender. Although you can buy in some meat markets thin slices for braciole, I prefer to buy a roast and cut and pound my own. Below, you see a deboned pork shoulder on my cutting board along with my industry-standard meat pounder, a small frying pan.</div><div><br /></div><div>I've been in a bunch of restaurant kitchens, and by and large, every cook I've ever seen pounding out meat used the bottom of a frying pan to do so. Slice your roast into quarter-inch steaks and then flatten them to an eighth of an inch. To pound the meat, place a slice on the cutting board and cover it with a piece of film wrap, then use the flat of the frying pan to gently persuade the meat to flatten out. It doesn't generally take a lot of force.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWK3CWrYSxYfeWHoaw_y9DoKJlUz-mJFWD4anIXuwJcM2uZr3TihhP1hyphenhyphenJyTvyualCnEJ1TLi4EULwPsxAPFSR2USHJivRWEfJNgJokv37Cm1nRNAZhcOwpRk4yNXZWLTgx0LFmUH1d-N-Zz0jKofKKvYfMqHUy7yLNOMalrBpaNh-B_CiltBTnLFD1WJ0/s3785/IMG_1321.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2839" data-original-width="3785" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWK3CWrYSxYfeWHoaw_y9DoKJlUz-mJFWD4anIXuwJcM2uZr3TihhP1hyphenhyphenJyTvyualCnEJ1TLi4EULwPsxAPFSR2USHJivRWEfJNgJokv37Cm1nRNAZhcOwpRk4yNXZWLTgx0LFmUH1d-N-Zz0jKofKKvYfMqHUy7yLNOMalrBpaNh-B_CiltBTnLFD1WJ0/w400-h300/IMG_1321.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pork Shoulder with Ersatz Meat Pounder</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNuuLVgdi7nrJDIZD0N0OaBdJXqxhC22ryhod0O7OBvcr3XDQpvF9AUSV4YNbdWL4EvOQDqbj8up_4sUoTQvMYtj20NwquyrbDBK8xVlvThJjbuLCBggaHBPY7tPi6Az2NP_qwmwKdbUBX-WyqiXRBrZU76iPUrUslZoviI-hEI77CCzesL23-3fNCqPeb/s3854/IMG_1322.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2891" data-original-width="3854" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNuuLVgdi7nrJDIZD0N0OaBdJXqxhC22ryhod0O7OBvcr3XDQpvF9AUSV4YNbdWL4EvOQDqbj8up_4sUoTQvMYtj20NwquyrbDBK8xVlvThJjbuLCBggaHBPY7tPi6Az2NP_qwmwKdbUBX-WyqiXRBrZU76iPUrUslZoviI-hEI77CCzesL23-3fNCqPeb/w400-h300/IMG_1322.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pounded Pieces of Pork Shoulder, Trim Cut for Carnitas or Ragù</td></tr></tbody></table>Braciole are quite often stuffed with a bread crumb mixture. For this dinner, we needed to keep the filling gluten-free, so Ann and I kicked about ideas, landing ultimately on white beans which Ann asked if I would flavor with guanciale, cured hog jowl. To start the filling, I smoothed out 3/4 of the beans to a purée in the robot coupe while rendering a really fine dice of guanciale on the stove. After removing the almost browned guanciale from the pan, I cooked a really finely diced onion in the guanciale fat. To the cannellini purée, I added the browned guanciale bits, the onions and their oil, a bunch of pesto, and the remaining quarter of whole beans, for texture. Naturally, I salted to taste.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg6eOyacwAZRsxapmsnIiNqP8-Tcc2veqXM9sC8jgjW2gTUm1i0Zvg1Jrz8YU3O0Qzwkh69XFehhysIrabu9s2TSq99_e9iC0HyJ5UR7bREUrWPl2lT5vQOhukkzQ5DHfQIJ3UkiDfn66fxpXeNMBdTRC2mj9iE2vdEmDIMBSULrU4UoyobKRYIxzXzwTZ/s3735/IMG_1333.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2801" data-original-width="3735" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg6eOyacwAZRsxapmsnIiNqP8-Tcc2veqXM9sC8jgjW2gTUm1i0Zvg1Jrz8YU3O0Qzwkh69XFehhysIrabu9s2TSq99_e9iC0HyJ5UR7bREUrWPl2lT5vQOhukkzQ5DHfQIJ3UkiDfn66fxpXeNMBdTRC2mj9iE2vdEmDIMBSULrU4UoyobKRYIxzXzwTZ/w400-h300/IMG_1333.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rendering Fine Dice of Guanciale</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvabPy5u6tshIUX4smdZXQZC28SAH0nd_ZLvqrRWIalvTC0dOkq1gHBMduY0vbVdKMWBODIGEvvAqQGGi_tcJrFvnBdSchsGIA5hZEZtgvsuROsO-N4tMXp5V6R_ioeMEXy0TuksqOiySSHTzyQ4qRHaY_MuHoJaFB24mW2rOeWUEGVUzP94aw5cuHOhG/s3607/IMG_1335.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2705" data-original-width="3607" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvabPy5u6tshIUX4smdZXQZC28SAH0nd_ZLvqrRWIalvTC0dOkq1gHBMduY0vbVdKMWBODIGEvvAqQGGi_tcJrFvnBdSchsGIA5hZEZtgvsuROsO-N4tMXp5V6R_ioeMEXy0TuksqOiySSHTzyQ4qRHaY_MuHoJaFB24mW2rOeWUEGVUzP94aw5cuHOhG/w400-h300/IMG_1335.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Braciola Stuffing: Cannellini Purée, Whole Cannellini, Pesto, Guanciale,<br />Onions Cooked in Guanciale Fat</td></tr></tbody></table><div>You roll braciole exactly as you would a burrito or an egg roll. Place a small amount of filling toward the top center of the meat and fold the top down and over the filling. Fold the sides in to the center to encase the filling, then roll from the top down to close the packet. Secure with one or more toothpicks. I prefer the longer wooden drink garnish picks; the extra length means that I only need one to secure the packet. Sometimes this takes two toothpicks.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once the packets are assembled, brown them in a pan on all sides and remove to a braising dish. Meanwhile, make a marinara. My braising pan typically takes a half gallon of sauce to cover the meat that I am braising. Marinara is trivial to make (and we used to make it on the fly at the restaurant whenever a parent would request pasta marinara for a child). For a rough half gallon, put two 28-ounce cans of tomatoes in your blender along with four large cloves worth of minced garlic, a pinch of salt, a tablespoon of dried basil, and a pinch of pepperoncini (crushed red pepper flakes). Blitz it and voilà!</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsP2Fw4OxH24sxnXaaOC1V2mhIZwmA1w2jCWSaQznnjtQAAnpRKRj76RrxE1K-cxi12Niw-7gu471O9fkWmKUGvDao0sS8TGhXzk33FPZsW8N4nEDRcGytgZEI_-PfOlQEkqrq1Qi5VLnvzKB6fwLmYsQNaUDh2Pmb_-_ym8QqRlxk3tU70a0IP6vWgzXz/s3735/IMG_1338.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2801" data-original-width="3735" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsP2Fw4OxH24sxnXaaOC1V2mhIZwmA1w2jCWSaQznnjtQAAnpRKRj76RrxE1K-cxi12Niw-7gu471O9fkWmKUGvDao0sS8TGhXzk33FPZsW8N4nEDRcGytgZEI_-PfOlQEkqrq1Qi5VLnvzKB6fwLmYsQNaUDh2Pmb_-_ym8QqRlxk3tU70a0IP6vWgzXz/w400-h300/IMG_1338.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Starting to Brown Braciole</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjibmeQJr53Dn39hW9BBMFVJsapvM9WOcf7WfWCabXexxC4KnMVdzwiaMmRIABYjs1w4KKLwltgSCWu4XJIdw6RmgC-6vIJ7aJ8DHb3rppZ9aDw-MUa5Z_Zmu_ZsmXW13F8f-SCMjsyKI5CAy4H97fxvYS7pE95cn-BsYzt28nOBruS9W5FFJvRWnQCOQxQ/s3755/IMG_1340.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2816" data-original-width="3755" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjibmeQJr53Dn39hW9BBMFVJsapvM9WOcf7WfWCabXexxC4KnMVdzwiaMmRIABYjs1w4KKLwltgSCWu4XJIdw6RmgC-6vIJ7aJ8DHb3rppZ9aDw-MUa5Z_Zmu_ZsmXW13F8f-SCMjsyKI5CAy4H97fxvYS7pE95cn-BsYzt28nOBruS9W5FFJvRWnQCOQxQ/w400-h300/IMG_1340.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Browned Braciole Ready to be Covered in Marinara</td></tr></tbody></table>After covering the browned braciole in marinara, cover the brasier (I use aluminum foil, unnecessary if you are using a dish with a cover) and place it on a sheet tray; braciole love to bubble over and create a mess on the bottom of the oven. Braise in a moderate oven for 2 to 3 hours. You'll know they're done when they are fork tender.<div><br /></div><div>To accompany the braciole, I wanted a starch to act as a sop for all the leftover marinara. In Italy, the sauce would often be ladled over pasta as a first course with the meat served afterwards. Ann and I, we wanted something more elegant for our dinner and I proposed gnocchi alla romana, made by cooking semolina, letting it set up on a sheet tray, cutting out rounds, and baking those rounds nicely arranged in a gratin with a sprinkle of cheese until prettily browned.</div><div><br /></div><div>How silly of me to propose that, given that we needed to keep the dinner gluten-free and semolina is ground wheat. How fortunate though that Ann mistakenly grabbed the container of polenta (which is ground corn) from the pantry instead of the container of semolina! Not trusting the polenta cooked in milk and augmented with egg yolks and butter to fully set up enough to be cut into rounds, Ann put it directly into a baking dish and we baked the whole thing under a thin crust of pecorino romano.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha6_J-C5wrdwWR5vOonR_PGbN665KHpe19Klkbw3DOsBzw8vBXjEqGEcYiD43o9nLhHFKkgh31k_1sYGsElTO1iSULEC_9-EShofR0Jg50IntuiaSQyyzhtd4zqiF2QiNyDxhTZ6R0ESpQFnwa9zGrdmNdwh1KJ1wYnx38FcGFfLEy1snEKlnfn4w0u9fv/s4032/IMG_1330.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha6_J-C5wrdwWR5vOonR_PGbN665KHpe19Klkbw3DOsBzw8vBXjEqGEcYiD43o9nLhHFKkgh31k_1sYGsElTO1iSULEC_9-EShofR0Jg50IntuiaSQyyzhtd4zqiF2QiNyDxhTZ6R0ESpQFnwa9zGrdmNdwh1KJ1wYnx38FcGFfLEy1snEKlnfn4w0u9fv/w300-h400/IMG_1330.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stirring Polenta</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhpWQu9FDJURP2ckwaRMeaD8X3axkKOrAJwaKFSwaCCEHNB6eDMqzblZFNWZtfLrOtmad6HWb9kfjUiXmFn2qykV2NlJ15-biosg4zzUnYO-kw-a_b7sWxojarDxjEt53KUfOD8BQXAomxOp3eFPvGsdBVLJYIQSD5j5ifcK12Mz8Z5C-FXvL3c3f6i7s/s3913/IMG_1331.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2935" data-original-width="3913" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhpWQu9FDJURP2ckwaRMeaD8X3axkKOrAJwaKFSwaCCEHNB6eDMqzblZFNWZtfLrOtmad6HWb9kfjUiXmFn2qykV2NlJ15-biosg4zzUnYO-kw-a_b7sWxojarDxjEt53KUfOD8BQXAomxOp3eFPvGsdBVLJYIQSD5j5ifcK12Mz8Z5C-FXvL3c3f6i7s/w400-h300/IMG_1331.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Polenta Ready for Cheese and the Oven</td></tr></tbody></table>Ann's final contribution to our dinner was a ricotta cheesecake, made without a crust to keep it gluten-free. You can make cheesecake with almost any soft unripened small curd cheese: cream cheese, farmer cheese à la the German <i>quarkkuchen</i>, or ricotta in the Italian style.</div><div><br /></div><div>Cheesecake is one of the simplest desserts to make and I have made untold hundreds during my career. Here are some tips born of experience.</div><div><br /></div><div>The basic formula is to figure out how much cheese your springform pan requires and work from there. Naturally, at the restaurant, we were making several cakes at a time; fortunately, the basic ratio scales quite well. At home, our 10" x 2.5" springform mold holds four pounds of cheese without breaking a sweat which works out quite well for ricotta which comes in convenient 2 pound containers. The ratio continues with 2 eggs per pound plus an additional egg for every two pounds, thus 10 eggs for this batch. So, 7-8 eggs for a three-pound brick of cream cheese, if you are going that route.</div><div><br /></div><div>For each two pounds of cheese, three-quarters of a cup of sugar seems to be about right, though I always add less to start and add flavorings to taste. The amount of sugar can vary based on how sour the cheese is (cream cheese tends to be much more tart than ricotta) as well as the flavorings you are adding. If your flavorings are sweet, you might need less sugar; bitter, such as espresso, you might need more sugar. For additional flavorings, Ann added a good slug of Mexican vanilla and the zest of three lemons.</div><div><br /></div><div>As an aside, you may not want any sugar at all if you are making a savory cheesecake. We used to make blue cheese cheesecakes with walnut crusts that we would bake in shallow tart pans to pair with certain sweet wines. These cakes required no to minimal sugar. I can remember making black olive and rosemary tarts to accompany wild boar. Your imagination is really the limit with cheesecakes.</div><div><br /></div><div>Although I always baked my cheesecakes in a slow oven in a water bath (covering the bottom of the pan with aluminum foil to avoid water infiltration), you can certainly bake them in a slow oven without a water bath, which is what Ann did in this case. In any case, 325-350F is about right, though we never had a thermometer on our ovens at the restaurant. You will almost certainly have to tent the top of the cakes with aluminum foil to keep them from burning, simply because the top is going to brown long before the center is set. So, cook your cheesecake uncovered until it is as brown as you would like, then tent it for the duration with aluminum foil.</div><div><br /></div><div>How long a cheesecake requires in the oven depends on way too many factors to give a hard and fast rule, so do as we did in the restaurant and as Ann did with this one: cook it until it is done. At first, the center of the cake, when you shake it gently, will be liquid and will slosh back and forth. As the cake cooks, it will set from the outer edge and move towards the center. As the cake cooks, the batter will puff up. When it is evenly puffed all the way to the center, you can be pretty certain that it is done. Do not be surprised when the cake settles as it cools.</div><div><br /></div><div>When cheesecakes come out of the oven, I like to let them cool a few minutes, then run a spatula between the cake and the side walls of the mold. Then I'll crack the mold open, but leave it in place on the cake and let it finish cooling. Separating the mold from the cake in the early cooling stages will help avoid cracks in the cake as it cools. Cheesecakes shrink slightly as they cool and if the edges of the cake adhere to the sides of the pan, the center may shrink away from the edges and tear cracks in your beautiful cake.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1Z2fRg18jaRrmBaqJRocP1b_pmC1-9yxic-kej7V-fDkhjVr2xqvCtyKxTVbvDLhOwCv_CHJfRNHkob-_g08vuqe71qEDrvQRuJmbaOTtpbNtIKveIz7KJHSEP28iqku6ZJVzNkUg5v9Qsytm3yTlcZG3rBKRiaUWk7QLWoB9IaaUbhaiYGj2xurdcPR/s3626/IMG_1328.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2720" data-original-width="3626" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1Z2fRg18jaRrmBaqJRocP1b_pmC1-9yxic-kej7V-fDkhjVr2xqvCtyKxTVbvDLhOwCv_CHJfRNHkob-_g08vuqe71qEDrvQRuJmbaOTtpbNtIKveIz7KJHSEP28iqku6ZJVzNkUg5v9Qsytm3yTlcZG3rBKRiaUWk7QLWoB9IaaUbhaiYGj2xurdcPR/w400-h300/IMG_1328.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mad Scientist Flavoring the Batter</td></tr></tbody></table></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-rMg7Ae-M1FqcR51Z-qyDSU5vbQsE7c2AzW91uh21CqHdoIIw-_0NE733d53n0sU-lZ7kYxAaMUlXnuR2anX3m7ovw65N0NykiYti6wRqh-XH08V3RCpDGXZUXynY0L-OoMtjdj9ZLxsIbYTStppGNNz4NX6X9Jv4bvirnCtc4NtDEEQ8VEFOBuqr3kr9/s3547/IMG_1332.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2660" data-original-width="3547" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-rMg7Ae-M1FqcR51Z-qyDSU5vbQsE7c2AzW91uh21CqHdoIIw-_0NE733d53n0sU-lZ7kYxAaMUlXnuR2anX3m7ovw65N0NykiYti6wRqh-XH08V3RCpDGXZUXynY0L-OoMtjdj9ZLxsIbYTStppGNNz4NX6X9Jv4bvirnCtc4NtDEEQ8VEFOBuqr3kr9/w400-h300/IMG_1332.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Done to Perfection</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMGgXrDgHt5dzMwzS_-wP3msfxeN9Av1B0jF31EBUQ9KMvk4pVZWWreO_M1sIIqbpHeXh1fVrNbWKKkNbxsOf6l57pLpeW13f-JM8VLNAR2qQU96F4fH_myESi6gtZb-wgnvody2S2GYBnAGxSbRpYnZeZkCgN7w2o7zIzvkSPpu0jJefFqCTTkIT4tqNC/s3772/IMG_1359.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2829" data-original-width="3772" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMGgXrDgHt5dzMwzS_-wP3msfxeN9Av1B0jF31EBUQ9KMvk4pVZWWreO_M1sIIqbpHeXh1fVrNbWKKkNbxsOf6l57pLpeW13f-JM8VLNAR2qQU96F4fH_myESi6gtZb-wgnvody2S2GYBnAGxSbRpYnZeZkCgN7w2o7zIzvkSPpu0jJefFqCTTkIT4tqNC/w400-h300/IMG_1359.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dusted with Espresso Sugar</td></tr></tbody></table></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IHY0r3JVZ_UOSBLqKxjPcYyHDZR7HaBOWuweTZLVO5tL3ShxE-twDw1AG5P2UoDjiXz_gCrOdMZOTe_bRm-KLJH4COBpRYW6xhsH4UxjvNC-kQUr3jNAUU7Q79utbbYUC8sTLf9qQGu8f1MrhO44t0LgcDoTSm0OkiUWqA-jg5b8Qf6amcx7CEP26mFy/s3626/IMG_1361.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2719" data-original-width="3626" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IHY0r3JVZ_UOSBLqKxjPcYyHDZR7HaBOWuweTZLVO5tL3ShxE-twDw1AG5P2UoDjiXz_gCrOdMZOTe_bRm-KLJH4COBpRYW6xhsH4UxjvNC-kQUr3jNAUU7Q79utbbYUC8sTLf9qQGu8f1MrhO44t0LgcDoTSm0OkiUWqA-jg5b8Qf6amcx7CEP26mFy/w400-h300/IMG_1361.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freaking Delicious Ricotta Cheesecake with Hints of Lemon and Espresso</td></tr></tbody></table>We, the six of us, all had a wonderful time and enjoyed our meal thoroughly. After dinner, Andreas, Rob, and I held forth at the dinner table while the other three, the youngsters of the group, disappeared to the family room. Next thing I knew, the family room erupted in 80's and 90's pop and hip-hop and there was a full-fledged dance party going on! Some parting shots below.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5SZT0xouS5X3KX9Flr7-YE8vtywPpUotNgHA7xAJWuC_YKfbF9DI3YH_86SGOiT222YWhhvUlirFCqEdwNpmnvPlW37D-9kMrdJ23Fp_VI9FFyvD-cOqkEeSfw0wlY8wTo9uqArTeRStXAM7xw9Aa8KWE3_2nigPh28JxQKvFILkMxzAfSArtdOJdgdv/s3201/IMG_1345.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3201" data-original-width="2401" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl5SZT0xouS5X3KX9Flr7-YE8vtywPpUotNgHA7xAJWuC_YKfbF9DI3YH_86SGOiT222YWhhvUlirFCqEdwNpmnvPlW37D-9kMrdJ23Fp_VI9FFyvD-cOqkEeSfw0wlY8wTo9uqArTeRStXAM7xw9Aa8KWE3_2nigPh28JxQKvFILkMxzAfSArtdOJdgdv/w300-h400/IMG_1345.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Tis the Season!</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4motbsSu5_1G46w07Ay8VUJcP6A7pxYHCCnAM1xEWk8ItGDuXCjjl7Nv8CaCClrv4JU-mS7CwrjS9FGcN3slC9Ssar1tYMOvBrbJpNR8cc3sFDbLtzz7AbpKJPf4u5unNTX7vYUA4YXWYhyphenhyphen_iWredqDDehKmsDiOUmeQEKxhT6JI3kyjj2fh8BEpyOm7/s2907/IMG_1358.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2907" data-original-width="2180" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4motbsSu5_1G46w07Ay8VUJcP6A7pxYHCCnAM1xEWk8ItGDuXCjjl7Nv8CaCClrv4JU-mS7CwrjS9FGcN3slC9Ssar1tYMOvBrbJpNR8cc3sFDbLtzz7AbpKJPf4u5unNTX7vYUA4YXWYhyphenhyphen_iWredqDDehKmsDiOUmeQEKxhT6JI3kyjj2fh8BEpyOm7/w300-h400/IMG_1358.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shout Out to the Chianti Classico Consortium</td></tr></tbody></table></div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-84320591003432279142023-12-07T11:56:00.000-08:002023-12-07T11:56:08.905-08:00Playing with Halibut<p>Contrary opinion here: halibut has no place on my table. It is in the same class of insipid and boring white proteins as chicken breast. No thank you. Ann feels the same way. You are allowed to feel differently and you can go pay $30-40 per pound for it if you like, but Ann and I, we're going to pay $4-6 per pound for local Pacific rockfish.</p><p><i>Aside: lots and lots of similar and related species are lumped under the moniker rockfish and none of them are to be confused with the amazing Striped Bass on the East Coast which also goes by rockfish, at least in the Chesapeake Bay area from where I come.</i></p><p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqgu2OiWoDNUJ7NYV82JCZoxkgDZ76ddprhvo-o3-JnQRIDs8yeywYDfnYO-iKv9p_-rEu1XsdBDghcTond8g_FIlfEjzycmndPSQmrFyKxbDOLqyWFqKc1QHmlZZkGPlygcDIThqeGv5qEAHrKTG1bAKuTtLy3jTu0_ULWKHeQ7qVRigZDmNNtkdH7XQ/s3240/IMG_1319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2430" data-original-width="3240" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqgu2OiWoDNUJ7NYV82JCZoxkgDZ76ddprhvo-o3-JnQRIDs8yeywYDfnYO-iKv9p_-rEu1XsdBDghcTond8g_FIlfEjzycmndPSQmrFyKxbDOLqyWFqKc1QHmlZZkGPlygcDIThqeGv5qEAHrKTG1bAKuTtLy3jTu0_ULWKHeQ7qVRigZDmNNtkdH7XQ/w400-h300/IMG_1319.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry-Brined Halibut with Roasted Broccoli and Curry Butter</td></tr></tbody></table>Ann and I do make an exception to the no-thank-you halibut rule: both the cheeks and the collars are delightful and worth every penny that we pay for them. But they cook up and taste way different than the insipidly dull and low-fat fillet meat.</p><p>So why am I even posting about halibut? Because I have a freezer full of it. And why do I have a freezer full? Because, when we were in Alaska, I wanted to go halibut fishing for the experience of it; I love fishing especially out on the ocean. And I have a rule about hunting and fishing: if I am going to take an animal, I am going to use every piece of that animal that gave its life so that I could eat. So, I am going to cook and eat every piece of halibut (the cheeks are long, long gone) in the freezer.</p><p><i>Another aside: halibut fishing is pretty damned boring and I don't need to ever do it again. You anchor and put a bait just off the bottom and the halibut takes your line. Then you use brute force to haul the fish, feeling like a barn door on the line, to the boat. There's no fight and not a lot of skill in taking a halibut; it's just brute force work</i>.</p><p>As a chef, I do not have much experience in cooking halibut because I have never really cared for it, but more importantly because my restaurant was located on the mid-Atlantic Coast where we have no halibut fishery. I wasn't going to waste the jet fuel in flying these fish in from Atlantic Canada, Scandinavia, or the West Coast, not when I could make a nightly call to the nearby docks, talk about the day's landings, and have my order arrive the very next morning.</p><p>So, ever since Ann and I landed our limit of halibut in Alaska, I have been playing with it trying to make it as palatable as possible. I have learned some things that other chefs more well versed in halibut probably already know. First, dry-brining does help the fish have better flavor and retain a bit more moisture. Second, halibut is extremely temperature sensitive and I am having the best results when I pull it at about 120 degrees Fahrenheit, then rest it just like a steak. Third, it's a fish that really demands a fatty sauce.</p><p>With those things in mind, I dry-brined the latest batch by giving them a good coating of a 2/3 salt, 1/3 sugar mixture and letting them sit for 45 minutes before roasting them to 120F and then letting them stand for 6 minutes, just like a steak. And then, I topped them with a simple sauce of melted butter into which I had mixed and gently cooked a spoonful of Madras-style curry powder.</p><p><i>Final aside: I use curry powder in my Indian food as often as Indian cooks do and that is never. I keep a little bit of it on hand for American dishes such as curried chicken salad. For Indian food, I use a mix of individual spices keyed to the particular dish that I am making. But for a simple butter to adorn a plate of roasted halibut and roasted broccoli, it worked just great.</i></p><p>This was the most successful halibut fillet that I have ever eaten. Still, I cannot wait for it to be gone from my freezer.</p>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7459081303994947139.post-11689062961028301922023-12-03T11:21:00.000-08:002023-12-03T11:21:23.836-08:00Dreaming of Italy<p>Ann and I have been planning a big vacation for years now, ever since our last major vacation of nearly two weeks in Alaska (<a href="https://mangiabeve.blogspot.com/2021/08/alaska-2021-trip-recap.html" target="_blank">Anchorage area and the Kenai</a>) in 2021 during a gap between COVID outbreaks. Our next big trip will be next fall, tentatively a big circle of northern Italy from Firenze to Bolzano and back, taking in sights in Toscana, Emilia-Romagna, Lombardia, il Veneto, and the star of the show, i Dolomiti (Tyrolean or Dolomitic Alps) of Trentino-Alto Adige (Südtirol).</p><p>A goal of this trip for me as a chef will be to get off the beaten path and sample local dishes that will continue my education into and expand my repertoire of Italian regional cuisine. As an aside, I doubt very much that I will be ordering classic dishes in Italy as I have cooked them all and so they no longer pique my curiosity.</p><p>Because of all this trip planning, we are thinking of all things Italian. It is perfect timing then, that this week when looking through the meat section of the grocery, I saw some particularly good looking beef shank cut for osso buco, the classic braised dish of Lombardy and Milan, in particular. I don't think our itinerary will include a stay in Milan, but still, I never can resist making this milanese classic when I have the opportunity. Served on a bed of risotto milanese (saffron risotto) with a bottle of Barbaresco, this dish was a delightful counterpoint to our crappy snowy and rainy winter weather last night.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOEQ2JZQUR4QFPmv96Q7AdMrb4R2UCHbJui4VkaF24JM8MPQlp_WgVkEe_L6wz65mkvGO6IutJgxbZJbjbSf0mA7YNGW3cnno8A8tissZ-GZQXfoVklYFyIdfXgiq6Dz5HX0ZK2C5tJYwi_aZAwmUgzTF48ujXhCeqNtbVBB_J4S1ngnusxdsqnYb-rx-G/s2874/IMG_1318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2156" data-original-width="2874" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOEQ2JZQUR4QFPmv96Q7AdMrb4R2UCHbJui4VkaF24JM8MPQlp_WgVkEe_L6wz65mkvGO6IutJgxbZJbjbSf0mA7YNGW3cnno8A8tissZ-GZQXfoVklYFyIdfXgiq6Dz5HX0ZK2C5tJYwi_aZAwmUgzTF48ujXhCeqNtbVBB_J4S1ngnusxdsqnYb-rx-G/w400-h300/IMG_1318.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ossobuco on Risotto Milanese</td></tr></tbody></table>I've made several posts on this blog and I'm sure other posts on the restaurant blog about osso buco. I've made lots and lots of very different versions from many different kinds of meat (veal, beef, elk, venison, bison, pork, <i>cinghiale</i> (wild boar), and others). This post goes over the way that I most often make it at home, braised in wine, tomatoes, and aromatics. This is in contrast to at the restaurant where it might have been braised in demiglace and porcini and then finished with truffles. In other words, this is my rustic, <i>casalinga </i>version.<div><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">Home-Style Ossobuco</h3><p>This recipe describes braising the ossobuco in a slow cooker. There is absolutely no reason why this could not be cooked slowly on the stovetop or in the oven using a dutch oven or other covered braising pan. At the restaurant, we used flat hotel plans covered in aluminum foil; in other words, no fancy equipment needed. If you are going to braise in a pan, you can (and should) brown the meat and the aromatics directly in the braising pan.)</p><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">1/4 cup all purpose flour</blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt</blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">large pinch coarse black pepper<br />2 large shank portions (mine were extra large and weighed in at 2.8 pounds/1.25 kg)<br />olive oil to film a skillet or sauté pan<br />1 large leek, finely chopped<br />1 large carrot, in small dice<br />1 large stalk celery, in small dice<br />6-8 large cloves garlic, minced<br />1 sprig fresh rosemary<br />1 sprig fresh thyme<br />1 tablespoon dried thyme<br />1 cup/250ml (1/3 bottle) dry red wine</blockquote><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0px 0px 0px 40px; padding: 0px; text-align: left;">1 28oz can of diced tomatoes and their juice</blockquote><p>The steps, illustrated below, are simple. Dredge the shanks in seasoned flour and brown. Cook the aromatics and herbs. Add the remaining dredging flour and cook it a bit. Deglaze with red wine and add the tomatoes. Combine all the ingredients and cook slowly until the meat is fork tender.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrAGNyysxfDt_E9Zseqd09gbwoIgjlp0PMly5REks8_j90VMdcAEwuHC1RzbKHo8L7XCgXQzQh8qunRZ9ng2Px33OwcKqJ9ZZYdzSYALduVwcEGIovvvpVFDSr0OR3M1xm61bfDIVEzME6dDNq0oPkHUQx54I6QbBvEBpBbtNet6kODEuH2l6FtkCtOWh/s3765/IMG_1307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2824" data-original-width="3765" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrAGNyysxfDt_E9Zseqd09gbwoIgjlp0PMly5REks8_j90VMdcAEwuHC1RzbKHo8L7XCgXQzQh8qunRZ9ng2Px33OwcKqJ9ZZYdzSYALduVwcEGIovvvpVFDSr0OR3M1xm61bfDIVEzME6dDNq0oPkHUQx54I6QbBvEBpBbtNet6kODEuH2l6FtkCtOWh/w400-h300/IMG_1307.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>When selecting ossobuco, if you have a choice, always look for the slices that are more meat than bone. There is little more disappointing than being served a piece of ossobuco that is almost all bone, which is sadly what a lot of grocery store ossobuco amounts to. Too bad that we have no place to buy veal ossobuco, however, the beef ossobuco in the photo above is as pretty as I have ever seen.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit0On6E9Jdw44H6ccMXlIWkWa5Dr7SF2PSaJm60Sq4XW48zb2iS1oR8QzWz1IPtX200s2GxXnOw_Od8KftiR8fb5CX5Eh6gG-vhfc4I1ZIsZaTA7VTbBBhNOv_bJXa-O6jDene5d6URnlCLj6E-vx4jLgBSiisi8jvlC6hJTQx8hSmvxxPAspt2XXi5kDh/s2706/IMG_1308.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2030" data-original-width="2706" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit0On6E9Jdw44H6ccMXlIWkWa5Dr7SF2PSaJm60Sq4XW48zb2iS1oR8QzWz1IPtX200s2GxXnOw_Od8KftiR8fb5CX5Eh6gG-vhfc4I1ZIsZaTA7VTbBBhNOv_bJXa-O6jDene5d6URnlCLj6E-vx4jLgBSiisi8jvlC6hJTQx8hSmvxxPAspt2XXi5kDh/w400-h300/IMG_1308.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCBmVUB8rKNy80g7Njkkxl4VluhI6EkvkrTwnqEvhXMaSf-_Bkn3ufPyXNUlnc5ro6LISVplkR9YI6n8dSrFwOf2VruD14NHfMvbauh1WN0s5aXG6aFkSsy_sRxfXC8cZUlZ88Q5rAvfPQ14qeHV_1RdVyMuSzfDFmLrXOu9miCy9YYBSYyWq1wFqN_ZW/s3389/IMG_1309.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2542" data-original-width="3389" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnCBmVUB8rKNy80g7Njkkxl4VluhI6EkvkrTwnqEvhXMaSf-_Bkn3ufPyXNUlnc5ro6LISVplkR9YI6n8dSrFwOf2VruD14NHfMvbauh1WN0s5aXG6aFkSsy_sRxfXC8cZUlZ88Q5rAvfPQ14qeHV_1RdVyMuSzfDFmLrXOu9miCy9YYBSYyWq1wFqN_ZW/w400-h300/IMG_1309.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Mix the flour with the salt and pepper and cover both sides of the shanks in flour, knocking off any excess. Brown over medium heat until well colored on both sides.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8nEF-VoNePUSRe0llzrIPGC-SfDFWfyA4e6ec1Set4cfXoXrOABE4wg2uWUMv0dmAhf3wK-2WoI8ZEPITeFdjAhsd2GyrqDG9_OGvUPCYVpnn2LfqGuO33xbpBzHUkOi5Ki891oQHJ1V3nSkIbvcJ0q7BoldI1EZM8tC432Mo093SS0lNC5ArF8rmRx4l/s3513/IMG_1310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2635" data-original-width="3513" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8nEF-VoNePUSRe0llzrIPGC-SfDFWfyA4e6ec1Set4cfXoXrOABE4wg2uWUMv0dmAhf3wK-2WoI8ZEPITeFdjAhsd2GyrqDG9_OGvUPCYVpnn2LfqGuO33xbpBzHUkOi5Ki891oQHJ1V3nSkIbvcJ0q7BoldI1EZM8tC432Mo093SS0lNC5ArF8rmRx4l/w400-h300/IMG_1310.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>While the beef is browning, if you have decent knife skills, you will have plenty of time to prep the aromatics. In the winter when leeks are in season, I prefer to use leeks rather than onions. Of course, onions work just great too. I prefer fresh herbs in general for this dish. The exception is basil in this winter season when fresh basil is scarce.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWvUiQl8gLCaLAtlb21ZayFTCZqfcweybm9Mq-C6NAn8qQec8CwvkOw_T-5m2KAcZFQu5CpSg6PSgPo8Z2mmqoFUrf-KCOJfG7xHcLyqLRXK45gIwIKZPkSdRNtEod3LLwi47ntXpzr72TrecWlyBlw6Pvb16o1bDDaJaLmTieF83TRaloudO2MG8KR-9/s3270/IMG_1311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3270" data-original-width="2452" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWvUiQl8gLCaLAtlb21ZayFTCZqfcweybm9Mq-C6NAn8qQec8CwvkOw_T-5m2KAcZFQu5CpSg6PSgPo8Z2mmqoFUrf-KCOJfG7xHcLyqLRXK45gIwIKZPkSdRNtEod3LLwi47ntXpzr72TrecWlyBlw6Pvb16o1bDDaJaLmTieF83TRaloudO2MG8KR-9/w300-h400/IMG_1311.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seasoned Flour, Red Wine, and Tomatoes</td></tr></tbody></table>I'm really picky about my tomatoes and I have my favorite brand. I tend to use very finely diced tomatoes packed in juice, though it would be no problem to use whole romas and crush them slightly using your hands or a food processor. As for wine, I do <b>not </b>cook with the same wine that I want to drink with the dish, the opposite of what some people recommend.</div><div><br /></div><div>The wines that I like to drink are far too expensive and delicate to be cooking with. Moreover, the reason for the wine in the dish is simply to supply some acid to help break down the meat, and any reasonably priced well made wine will do this for you. For white cooking wine, I buy inexpensive dry box wine because we never have any leftover white wine (for we rarely drink white wine and pretty much never in winter).</div><div><br /></div><div>For red wine, we are always buying sample bottles to see if we want to buy case quantities for the cellar. Invariably, we have bottles that while being decent wines, simply are not to our taste. Those become cooking wines. The Matthews wine in the photo above, we bought on a lark merely because that is my surname. Sadly, it was not to our taste despite being highly rated by the wine talking heads.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9cdcG7NKBbpsttfjEjvhQ5Z5OmQQMnD2zYO8Meyh-Q-1pkvJVLkokS6qLGteHxq-nrPcnqd-p9nB_bULBtj3L_oORAoXEhdxS69K9oNEqdeApBoU5gSGXrFFZs4MvKyYyvVQfAj6_oR7jEgGwodSYcQaMXP4MiULdNJ6qDzR51fY7Z8MIcph3wYvRYIr/s3730/IMG_1312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2797" data-original-width="3730" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9cdcG7NKBbpsttfjEjvhQ5Z5OmQQMnD2zYO8Meyh-Q-1pkvJVLkokS6qLGteHxq-nrPcnqd-p9nB_bULBtj3L_oORAoXEhdxS69K9oNEqdeApBoU5gSGXrFFZs4MvKyYyvVQfAj6_oR7jEgGwodSYcQaMXP4MiULdNJ6qDzR51fY7Z8MIcph3wYvRYIr/w400-h300/IMG_1312.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1m_F2DpZmGVYw2_cuzwHYYK8Ny1AP6XofB2dAvBd4V_IVnNLOuayP7YvLqKXofhC8Ua2bUGk8QObC7V6G57IlwTI-FCmzz9ZgZyJrqtAi71IPDTFYVisV_-jqCXCvC0P8fI6pfdfFrJNxSg4qY3tnIept_6pyEn5gptQyDZbp-AoAae3XEMZlzvBGodzt/s3646/IMG_1313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2735" data-original-width="3646" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1m_F2DpZmGVYw2_cuzwHYYK8Ny1AP6XofB2dAvBd4V_IVnNLOuayP7YvLqKXofhC8Ua2bUGk8QObC7V6G57IlwTI-FCmzz9ZgZyJrqtAi71IPDTFYVisV_-jqCXCvC0P8fI6pfdfFrJNxSg4qY3tnIept_6pyEn5gptQyDZbp-AoAae3XEMZlzvBGodzt/w400-h300/IMG_1313.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>After the meat is browned, cook the aromatics and herbs in the same pan, being sure to scrape up all the brown meat bits off the bottom of the pan. These bits have amazing flavor that you want in your braise. When the vegetables are soft, add the remaining dredging flour, stir it in, and cook it for another minute or two. Then deglaze (use the liquid to get any solids off the bottom of the pan) with the red wine and add the tomatoes. Stir all the ingredients well. Then if you are using a slow cooker, pour the sauce over the meat. If you are braising on the stovetop or in the oven, nestle the meat into the sauce. Cover and cook at low heat.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKwMwAI9arL2Y_V33Dq1VxTBcReSLOT0epI4gkRrfNN4Q53QTrvgalJKG8XYMl6iZfIkGhx8ieX1RbgFK7tNwkVgyZiM9qtGgay9g8McGJQs1KulrONPsQhUc32woX0JPvTD1atFGSA_fViQdFION2OyIQ4CkpAy8AkupuxXRA0PE1g-1ZrxIRx6fXBw5/s3893/IMG_1314.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3893" data-original-width="2920" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKwMwAI9arL2Y_V33Dq1VxTBcReSLOT0epI4gkRrfNN4Q53QTrvgalJKG8XYMl6iZfIkGhx8ieX1RbgFK7tNwkVgyZiM9qtGgay9g8McGJQs1KulrONPsQhUc32woX0JPvTD1atFGSA_fViQdFION2OyIQ4CkpAy8AkupuxXRA0PE1g-1ZrxIRx6fXBw5/w300-h400/IMG_1314.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFshR-rochU_ia31iPdr8_Jv6um7afH3-rDu__T5de4J6BMxIiawSUFL4ebeg_ovDHXtfxZ55HGIM_4EPxSgW_9ipElr45xbLWMMr-5yGrrdQknAG2pHIaGPxVALrRUfJPfWHSNs9NQBO9Hsmu-3eI3qTLajvMnP-JMqscUpijwyIT8-0ZYj6KASOq34gv/s3785/IMG_1315.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3785" data-original-width="2839" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFshR-rochU_ia31iPdr8_Jv6um7afH3-rDu__T5de4J6BMxIiawSUFL4ebeg_ovDHXtfxZ55HGIM_4EPxSgW_9ipElr45xbLWMMr-5yGrrdQknAG2pHIaGPxVALrRUfJPfWHSNs9NQBO9Hsmu-3eI3qTLajvMnP-JMqscUpijwyIT8-0ZYj6KASOq34gv/w300-h400/IMG_1315.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkMdNReKG9wUPUfdnF738YvHSqcp_-0u0UxJ1Q0el6vvaKtlDCn2pKRy52SFLzMIb1BovyVEBMvWHj5IBT9bi4agz2I0nVbyAXFF5qM442WF0cIYM9df5S4SxsXXdWV8DbiJahejSt_EZDP5SoHIs6e83Wk_L8wiXW2EhoSZiUE65HcW31WI_RDW8Ue92/s3923/IMG_1317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3923" data-original-width="2942" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkMdNReKG9wUPUfdnF738YvHSqcp_-0u0UxJ1Q0el6vvaKtlDCn2pKRy52SFLzMIb1BovyVEBMvWHj5IBT9bi4agz2I0nVbyAXFF5qM442WF0cIYM9df5S4SxsXXdWV8DbiJahejSt_EZDP5SoHIs6e83Wk_L8wiXW2EhoSZiUE65HcW31WI_RDW8Ue92/w300-h400/IMG_1317.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Above, you see the meat after it has been browned, then covered in sauce before cooking, then after braising for seven hours. The meat was done after about six hours on low in the slow cooker, but I wasn't ready to eat then, so I let it go for another hour. On the stovetop or in the oven, I would guess that the dish would be ready in about three hours. To tell if it is done, stick a fork in it and if you meet no resistance, it is ready.</div><div><br /></div><div>A final note about salt. You will notice that this dish contains but a half a teaspoon of Kosher salt, not enough to season it. So, when it is done, you will need to taste and season the sauce according to your liking. I specify seasoning the dish after cooking because when you braise, you gradually lose liquid volume to create a silky, unctuous sauce. If you season to taste before the liquid cooks off, the finished product is going to be hella salty.</div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDwP8jfMm6tL1wPt7Kl_hAlkJZzpYWVq0dLhUgrqYMh9j-pwIk-Rin7z_13EKfzC_Dm-Av61XGq50hxKQ8IgNfphFrCa7sjpDg5g5fIC5XY9jnRww9No8jmBiZyeBa3xtz5uOzyfnrMtsxre1uCgFyyRj0WH_TAK_snxX3yzOamQ_DaLbNXSxv97gKqpO/s3392/IMG_1316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2544" data-original-width="3392" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPDwP8jfMm6tL1wPt7Kl_hAlkJZzpYWVq0dLhUgrqYMh9j-pwIk-Rin7z_13EKfzC_Dm-Av61XGq50hxKQ8IgNfphFrCa7sjpDg5g5fIC5XY9jnRww9No8jmBiZyeBa3xtz5uOzyfnrMtsxre1uCgFyyRj0WH_TAK_snxX3yzOamQ_DaLbNXSxv97gKqpO/w400-h300/IMG_1316.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parting Shot: Risotto Milanese Starting to Cook<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>As I mentioned before, I served the ossobuco on risotto milanese with a great Nebbiolo wine, a Barbaresco. Sadly, I cannot really go into making risotto in a blog post. It, like making biscuits or handmade pasta, takes hands-on experience to learn the feel of the dish.</div>Chef Edhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05093314323621833245noreply@blogger.com0