Forks in Our Road: Italy Day 7, Verona: Celebrating our Anniversary

Monday, September 30, 2024

Italy Day 7, Verona: Celebrating our Anniversary

Monday, September 30

Verona, Verona, Veneto

Highlight: Wonderful anniversary dinner

Lowlight: Trying to find parking in Verona

After our late night in Bologna, we had to get up and leave our apartment by 10:00. We got away from Castelfranco without any issues, thankfully. After a quick drive north of about 90 minutes, leaving Emilia-Romagna for the Veneto and crossing the Po River, we arrived in the spectacularly beautiful downtown of Verona, situated on the banks of the Adige River.

Verona is supposedly the town of "romance" and makes a lot of hay from the fake so-called Juliet's Balcony and other Romeo and Juliet-related stuff. On this trip, if I had interest in Shakespeare, I'd be in a totally different country. We had no interest in any of that nonsense and steered clear. Fake Shakespearian tourist schlock aside, Verona is a delightful town and we definitely did not spend enough time here. Of all the places we visited in Italy, we would go back to both Pistoia and especially to Verona.

Our Neighborhood in Verona
Our B&B to left of Chiesa di Santo Stefano (center bottom)
Castel di San Pietro (center top) and Walls of Adige River (right)

Our B&B, conveniently located on the north (technically the east) bank of the Adige River just by the Ponte Pietra, had reserved parking, a rarity in a lot of cities. However, I did not clearly understand from the directions where I should park. Trying to understand the parking situation, I made three laps of the block where our B&B was located.

Finally, with the help of the B&B owner and his future son-in-law, I finally got our large 5-door Jeep in the small parking space allocated to our room. It did not help that they kept telling me to park parallel to the yellow lines. The only yellow line visible from the driver's side was one that was perpendicular to the street. On the passenger side was the yellow line that they meant and that line was at an angle to the street. I think they thought I was an idiot as I kept parking at 90 degrees to the street.

After unpacking, we took a brief walk to a bank to get some cash to pay our room tax, something new to us in Verona. Most cities in Italy, it seems, have a room tax and B&B owners want it in cash when you arrive along with a photo of your passport. Who knew? After visiting the bank, we crossed the Ponte Garibaldi and made a brief loop through the old section of town, coming back to the room via the Ponte Pietra. Knowing I would have tomorrow to shoot photos, I did not shoot a lot of photos in the harsh light of midday.

As we crossed the Ponte Garibaldi, we could see and hear that the Adige River was screaming fast and silty like the glacial melt rivers of Alaska, likely the result of rains and flooding from the recent storms that plagued Europe. All along the banks of this river here and further north we would see vast amounts of Jerusalem Artichokes in bloom. We made our way to the Piazza dei Signori, lined with fabulous palazzos and featuring a statue of Dante in the middle.

From the Ponte Garibaldi: the Belltower of the Duomo di Verona

Jerusalem Artichokes, Everywhere in Northern Italy

Piazza dei Signori, Statue of Dante Alighieri

Palazzo di Cansignorio (l), Palazzo della Ragione (r)

Torre dei Lamberti

More of the Piazza dei Signori

Just off to the side of the piazza are the crazy Gothic Scaliger Tombs, a group five monuments resembling Gothic steeples that celebrate the Scaliger family, rulers of Verona in the 13th and 14th centuries. The monuments are on the street, but separated by decorative metal grilles/fences.

The Scaliger Tombs

Random Streetscape

Super Narrow Passageway

Castel San Pietro (atop the hill)

Ponte Pietra, "Stone Bridge"
Dates to 100 BC, Blown up by Germans in WWII, Rebuilt from Rubble in 1957

Got Snacks?

Santuario della Madonna di Lourdes

Octagonal Lantern Atop Santo Stefano

Basilica di San Giorgio

Back at the room, we both took naps. Last night was a late one and we were resting for our anniversary celebration this evening at Osteria Ponte Pietra Ristorante at the foot of the bridge, less than two minutes from our apartment. Ann got a recommendation for this restaurant when we were back in the US and made reservations. This would be one of the nicest restaurants in which we would dine in Italy.

The restaurant, listed in the Guide Michelin for Verona, is nicely and eclectically appointed and feels comfortable. When we arrived, the first guests for the night, we were offered one of the few tables out on the balcony overlooking the river. It proved to be too cold and extremely noisy from the raging floodwaters of the Adige, so we were seated in the dining room.

We had quite an enjoyable evening talking with our service team and owner/manager Gianni Pascucci about local wines, catering to tourists, the restaurant business, and all things food. We started with Prosecco and then got Gianni to recommend us a local bottle from his impressive wine list.

Starting with Ca' del Bosco Dosage Zero Sparkling

Amuse: Baccala (I think; I forget) Cake

Uovo Cotto a Bassa Temperatura, Crema di Parmigiano Reggiano
e Tartufo Estivo
Soft Egg and Truffles: Breakfast of Champions

Toast di Acciughe, Zucchine e Burrata
Best Bite of the Night: Silky Mousse Like Tonnato, Pickled Zucchine

Zyme Valpolicella Classico Superiore
from Local Legend Celestino Gaspari

Fusilloni “Cavaliere Cocco”, Patate, Ricci di Mare, e Provola Affumicata
Cocco Makes Great Pasta
I Wonder about Pairing Potatoes and Pasta; The Uni was Lost

Pappardelle con Finferli, Fegatini di Pollo, e Levistico
Chanterelles, Chicken Liver, and Lovage: What's Not to Like?

Polpo Arrostito, Burrata, Fagiolini, Basilico, e Pinoli
Octopus Got a Bit Lost in the Garnishes

Maialino Iberico Affumicato, Pak-choi, Pistacchio, e Yoghurt
Pork Nicely Smoked and Well Cooked

Crème Brûlée Salvia e Limone
Tart and More Savory than Sweet, Sage is Unusual Touch

Amaro from the Veneto

We may have been the first customers to arrive, but we were also the last to leave, busy as we were chatting with the staff. We got hugs all around as we left the charming little restaurant and made our way out onto the bridge and headed home.

On the Ponte Pietra

As we walked home, we noticed how magical Verona is when all lit up at night. After dropping Ann off at the apartment, I went out near midnight to shoot some photos. I wish I had a tripod to have taken better photos in the black night. The photos below are crap, but at least they will convey some idea of the magic at night in Verona.