Updated October 21, 2025
I have mentioned many times that Ann and I must be Tuscan at heart. We are without doubt mangiafagioli, bean eaters: we love beans and they comprise a substantial source of protein in our diet. While our everyday diet heretofore had depended largely on canned beans (because when you are busy, you do not always have time to cook dried beans, or so my excuse went), we recognize that dried beans almost always taste better and come in a lot wider variety than the five or six kinds in cans at the grocery store.
Now that I am retired and time to cook dried beans is no longer an issue, I cook dried beans almost exclusively. In the past, Cannellini were the beans that we used the most, followed by Black Beans and Great Northern Beans. From time to time, I cooked dried Pintos or Mayocobas, largely for frijoles refritos. For refritos, I learned that I preferred Mayocobas to Pintos, but any leftover pot beans are likely to become refritos at our house because we love them so.
In late 2024, I started buying beans from Rancho Gordo in Napa, CA. Although I have known of them for decades thanks to a tip from chef Alice Waters, I never needed to order from them while I was in the restaurant business. On the East Coast, we had our own growers and small importers for wholesale quantities of beans.
My standard procedure for each new bean that we encounter is to soak it overnight in lightly salted water and cook it the next day in the slow cooker with minimal seasonings. For darker beans, the seasonings are usually a poblano, an onion, garlic, Mexican oregano, and some form of spice (chipotle, Chimayo chile, roasted green chile). We eat a bowl of pot beans with tortillas the first night and refried beans with the leftovers the following night.
Here are some notes about beans (updated with each reorder) that we have purchased from Rancho Gordo. They are mostly to refresh my feeble mind when it comes time to reorder, but they're out here for anyone looking for ideas as well.
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| One Haul from Rancho Gordo | 
Notes on Beans (alphabetical order)
Ayocote Morado. This is quite a large purplish runner bean that is somewhat similar to the Rio Zape. The beans are extremely creamy but not as flavorful as the Rio Zape beans. The skins are a bit thick as well. All in all, a tasty bean, but I prefer Rio Zapes.
Borlotti Stregoni. I have cooked with a lot of Borlotti and similar beans in my life (Bird Egg, Cranberry, and Dragon's Tongue all come to mind). When these Stregoni, a particular cultivar of Borlotti, arrived, I noticed that they are much bigger and darker than the Borlotti and kin beans that I have used in the past. I cooked them up in a slow cooker with garlic, bay, sage, thyme, and rosemary to use in a Christmas Eve pot of pasta e fagioli, a classic application for these beans in Tuscany. They cooked up into large, dark beans with a dark hearty broth, really too dark and too heavy for my light pasta fagioli. I liked these beans, but I will continue to use Cannellini or other light-colored and lighter-flavored beans for pasta fagioli. As Ann said, "Live and learn." The leftover beans made a fine batch of American chili. They also make fine refried beans.
Cassoulet Beans (Tarbais). These are the traditional French beans used for cassoulet and we used to get them in 10-kilo bags at the restaurant so I am very familiar with them. Heretofore, they have not been my favorite bean for cassoulet, however. That honor went to the Steuben Yellow Eye bean.
However, I made a mind-blowing cassoulet with these Tarbais beans and they were absolutely superb, holding their shape through 8-1/2 hours of cooking (90 minutes of par-cooking and 7 hours baking in the oven). It seems to me that this batch of American-grown beans is significantly better than any of the imported beans from France. It may simply be that they are fresher beans than the imported ones that I used at the restaurant. In any case, they are a winner and I reorder them when they are in stock.
Christmas Lima Beans. I have seen these beans in seed catalogs, but had never eaten them. I did not imagine that they were significantly different from any other form of lima beans. Ann loves dried limas so I got them for her. I grew up eating the fresh form, which in the South we call butterbeans, and don't have a lot of experience cooking the dried form.
Domingo Rojo. These medium-sized red beans look similar to many red beans that I have cooked in the past, but the flavor is really much better. On tasting these beans, Ann said they would make a great chili and I have to agree with her. They would also make a pretty classic New Orleans-style red beans and rice some Monday. As a bonus, they are better tasting and have thinner skins than the traditional red kidney beans. The broth is rich and delicious, but absent any chocolate notes of the Rio Zapes. Definitely worth reordering.
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| Good Mother Stallard Beans | 
Jacob's Cattle. I have heard of these beans almost all of my adult life, but April of 2025 is the first time that I have cooked with them. I bought them because I wanted to try them and because they are undeniably beautiful.
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| Jacob's Cattle Beans | 
Rebosero Beans. I knew nothing about these small pinkish grey Mexican beans that resemble the seeds for Kentucky Wonder pole beans that we used to plant in our garden. I was also drawn to the name of these beans which, if my limited Spanish serves me, means shawlmaker, reboso meaning "scarf."
After cooking these somewhat nondescript-looking beans in what I am calling a "Mexican cassoulet," I am in love with these beans. They cook up beautifully soft and creamy and in a perfect world in which I had unlimited amounts of these beans, would quickly become my new favorites for making frijoles refritos. They far surpass my previous favorites, Mayocobas.
Rio Zape. This large purplish brown bean with dark stripes, splotches, and spots is also known as the Hopi String Bean. To me, it tastes like a Pinto on steroids with some dark chocolate notes in the broth. This is a great pot bean and that is how we eat it, soaked overnight in lightly salted water and cooked simply in the slow cooker with onion, garlic, poblano, chipotle, and Mexican oregano. The next day, they make the most excellent refried beans. Forget about Reboseros; there's a new king in town for refritos!
The last pound of Rio Zapes served us well for two dinners, the first as pot beans served with a bit of cotjia cheese and cilantro, and the second as refried beans served on house-made tostadas topped with Dungeness Crab salad.
Royal Corona Beans. Ann really likes the large white beans from Greece called, aptly enough, gigantes. Royal Coronas are supposed to be similar but larger, richer, and creamier than gigantes. What's not to love about that? I turned them into gigantes plaki, the traditional baked bean dish of Greece. They took longer to cook than I first thought, but in the end, I liked these beans a lot.
Yellow Eye Beans (Steuben). This was a workhorse bean at the restaurant, consistently cooking up creamy and delicious and was my go-to for cassoulet when I could not get Tarbais beans. Many people think that these are the original beans for Boston Baked Beans. I constantly reorder these beans and they end up in many dishes, including cassoulets and a Moroccan white bean stew called Loubia. If I have no other beans in the pantry, I have Yellow Eyes; they are that good and versatile for all white bean dishes.
 
 
 
 
 
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