Sailing the San Juan Islands

And if the wind is right you can sail away

And find tranquility

Oh, the canvas can do miracles

— Christopher Cross, "Sailing"

I am not a huge fan of cheesy Yacht Rock as was Todd in "Breaking Bad," but Chris Cross's lyrics do strike a chord with me. When life is a bit hectic or I am anxious or I just need to clear my mind, certain sounds settle me quickly: the rush of whitewater rapids, the rustle of aspen leaves in the breeze, the gentle roar of the surf, and the flap of wind in sails coupled with the lapping of waves against the bow. Sailing grounds me, if that verb is ever appropriate in the context of sailing.

I am not in any particular need of grounding at this point in my life, but sailing is always a treat. Ann and I have just returned from sailing through the San Juan Islands in Washington State, as far north and west as this country extends, snugged up against British Columbia. We drove to Bellingham WA where we spent six days sailing the islands, a trip long on our must-do list. In the 8 years we have lived in Oregon, this was our first foray to that extreme northwestern part of the U.S.

The Guests (l-r): Ken, Gillian, Ed, Ann, Chris, Leslie

Hardworking Northwind Crew, The Bakers, Jon and Jette

Chief Fetching Officer Geni

The San Juan Islands are an archipelago of several hundred islands and rocks in Washington State between the mainland U.S. and Vancouver Island, British Columbia, roughly situated in the triangle formed by Bellingham WA, Victoria BC, and Anacortes WA. The surrounding bodies of water, the Puget Sound, the Strait of Georgia, and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, are now known as the Salish Sea after the ancestral inhabitants of the islands.

I do not recall how this trip got on our radar, but we have kicked the idea around for a few years. We really enjoy travel that gets us outside with a chance to interact with nature. Also, we both sailed independently before we got married, but never together. That seemed to be a box we both wanted to tick.

At the first of the year, we booked onto a 6-day cruise departing from and returning to Bellingham, a Sunday to Friday cruise. After researching cruise companies, we opted to go with Sail the San Juans on the Northwind II, a no expense-spared sloop-rigged 55-foot Jeanneau. Having experienced this cruise, I can wholeheartedly recommend it. Jon and Jette are two of the hardest working, most hospitality focused people I have ever met.

Saturday June 21, Travel to Bellingham

This story starts with our departure from our home in Bend en route to Yakima for lunch, continuing on to Bellingham for dinner. We opted to approach the Seattle area from the west on I-90 to avoid as much of the horrible I-5 traffic as we could, the stretch between Portland and Seattle being particularly crappy on most occasions.

As we left Bend, the day was gray, the temperature was in the upper 30s, and Mount Bachelor had a dusting of new snow. We had a few showers overnight in Bend, a discouraging start to our sailing trip. We hoped that the weather in the San Juans would be better than at home. Overall, it proved better, if cloudy and chilly at times, with only one rain-out day.

The four-hour trip to Bale Breaker Brewing in the middle of Yakima hop country out towards Moxee went without at hitch and we arrived just as the brewery was opening. Taking advantage of the opportunity to visit a good brewery, Ann and I were the first in line for beers at the counter where I got an IPA and she got a hazy. Chatting with our beertender revealed that he went to Western Wash in Bellingham and he gave us the run down on the beer scene there.

Lunch was courtesy of the Mero Mero food truck outside, from which we got outstanding tacos and not so great shrimp. Although the tacos were mixed beef and shrimp, a seemingly odd combination, they were delicious as was the interesting salsa verde with bits of charred pepper skin adding a wonderful smoky note.

Visiting Bale Breaker, a Favorite Brewery

Outstanding Shrimp and Beef Tacos, an Odd Combination
Salsa Verde was Memorable Too

After a beer, a bite, and a bathroom break, we rolled on through the Yakima Valley passing stacks of apple crates, fruit orchards, and hop farms and headed across the Snoqualmie Pass into the metro Seattle area. Sadly, after lunch, the rain started up again along the length of I-90 through the pass. Traffic was miserable and at a near standstill from Issaquah west and then north through Bellevue and Kirkland on the 405. It finally let up ten or so miles north of Everett. I recall the traffic was horrible decades ago when I was visiting both Boeing and Microsoft; it is worse now even on a Saturday afternoon.

We finally got moving forward and arrived in Bellingham just before dinner time. We had no issues navigating the small city of just under 100,000 people 50 miles north of Seattle and 20 miles south of BC. Parking for our B&B was in an alley parallel to a building, which made getting out of the driver's side of the car nearly impossible, but I made it. In doing so, I thought the front driver's side tire looked flat, but the pressure sensor indicated plenty of air.

I kind of shrugged it off as I carried in our bags, hoping for all the world that I would not have to deal with a flat tire on Sunday morning. We rested for a minute before walking in the direction of Aslan Brewing, recommended to us at Bale Breaker, a few blocks away. On our return, I would glance at the tire again, and sure enough, it looked flat.

We had a good time at Aslan where we found the service, the interior, and the beer all better than the food. That I have forgotten what we ordered says it all. In walking to and from Aslan, we noticed a lot of homeless people all over downtown and we passed one alley in particular that seemed to be an open air drug market with some people nodded out against the buildings. All cities out West have challenges with homelessness and drug use; Bellingham seems to have bigger challenges than most, perhaps because of its proximity to Seattle.

Best Lion Impression at Aslan Brewing
Good Beer, Unmemorable Food

Back at the B&B, with the possibility of a flat tire in the back of our minds, we turned in for the night anticipating our meeting Jon and Jette at the marina on Sunday afternoon.

Sunday June 22, Poking About Bellingham

After a good night's sleep (my last, it would prove, for a week), coffee was the first mission of the day. In the division of labor in our marriage, Ann has taken it upon herself to find great coffeehouses wherever we go. Once again, she done good in choosing Camber Coffee just a few blocks from where we slept. As we walked through downtown, especially around City Hall and Whatcom Creek, homeless people were sacked out under every other shrub.

We arrived at nicely appointed Camber Coffee in short order to wait on line for a few minutes; it seems Ann is not the only one who can find great coffee. We sat at a high-top enjoying excellent coffee and pastries that they bake in house each morning. In particular, my everything biscuit was fabulous, a thing to remember, especially for someone who appreciates savory flavors far more than sweet ones.

Camber Coffee: Outstanding

We would not board the boat until almost 2, so we had time to kill after coffee and wandered about the streets a bit taking things in before we checked out of our room and went to lunch.

Port of Bellingham

"Before I Die" Mural

Former City Hall, Now Whatcom Museum

Back at the B&B, we gathered our things and stowed them in the car. Still, the tire looked flat but the pressure sensor still indicated plenty of air. I limped the car into the street and noticed that it was not pulling at all. If the tire were flat, it would pull hard left. A few minutes after 11, we arrived at Boundary Bay Brewing, another recommendation from Bale Breaker and also one of the few places open on Sunday morning.

After parking, the tire looked fine. Whew! It must have been the crazily uneven pavement in the alley making the tire look flat. We took seats at the bar and chatted with the bartender, while watching the Mariners put a whipping on the Cubs. Apparently, according to the bartender, local icon Boundary Bay is closing in September after 30 years. That will be a loss for Bellingham.

At 1:45, we made the three-minute drive to the marina, but that is a tale for a subsequent post.

Sailing Sunday through Friday

The map below shows our roughly counterclockwise tour of the San Juans, progressing through the color spectrum from red to purple.

The following posts describe our sailing trip in more detail:

Sailing Sunday: Bellingham to Lummi Island

Sailing Monday: Lummi Island to Sucia Island

Sailing Tuesday: Sucia Island to Stuart Island

Sailing Wednesday: Stuart Island to Friday Harbor

Sailing Thursday - Friday: Friday Harbor to Cypress Island to Bellingham

Friday June 27: Travel to Astoria

Friday morning, we hauled anchor early and headed for Bellingham. The super low tide dictated we be at the dock by 11:00 to have enough water under the keel for safe passage. And that early arrival was fine with us because we had to do battle with Friday summer weekend traffic on I-5, our destination for the night being Astoria, Oregon. We chose Astoria because it is home to perhaps our favorite Oregon brewery (certainly top three along with Sunriver and Ruse, but do not forget Breakside, Great Notion, and pFriem).

I really wanted to stop in downtown Seattle to see Chihuly Garden and Glass to photograph some of Dale Chihuly's incredible glass sculptures, but given that it was a summer Friday afternoon, traffic would have been a nightmare had we stopped in downtown Seattle. Even without stopping and our early start, traffic was abysmal, more stop than go, from Everett to Olympia and again from Centralia to Chehalis. The trip which should have taken five hours frustratingly took seven.

We were mentally exhausted from doing battle with traffic for hours when we arrived at the nicely appointed Victorian-era Hotel Elliot, a mere two blocks from Fort George Brewing. The first order of business after the stressful drive was a hot shower for each of us and a change into clean clothes.

Next up was the brief two-minute walk, if that, to Fort George where people were sitting at tables in the courtyard between the two Fort George buildings, one the pub and the other a store selling bottled beer and merch. Because of the number of kids zooming around the courtyard, we went into the first floor of the pub. The downstairs pub has a pub menu; the upstairs pub serves pizza.

Both of us still having the sensation of rocking from sailing as we stood on line, we ordered beers that we cannot get at our favorite pub back in Bend, beers that are tasting room only, and took a sunny table in the pub. We tried a couple of what we thought were appetizers, jerk wings and pork belly loaded fries, but they turned out to be huge portions, so we did not order more food. Both dishes, while standard pub food, were exceptional, some of the best brewpub food I have ever eaten.

Fort George Pub

Neat Interior and Chandelier

Happy to Be Off the Road

Outstanding Pub Grub at Fort George

As tired as we were, we left Fort George fairly quickly and earlier than I expected. As much as the mind wanted to taste more beer, the body was unwilling. We stopped in next door and got a couple bottles of imperial stout to add to our cooler at home, for drinking by the fire in the winter. Next, we detoured to the waterfront on the way back to the hotel in search of ice cream for Ann. Back at the hotel, I spent a few minutes mulling over our route home, but I do not think it was even dark before I fell asleep.

Invasive Kenilworth Ivy on the Sidwalk, Cymbalaria muralis
Neither Ivy, Nor Native

Columbia River in Astoria

Saturday June 28, Cannon Beach and Home

After a good night's sleep in downtown Astoria, it was time to move along and get home. Several routes lead home including US30 east to Portland or US101 south to US 20 in Newport. I really wanted to visit Cannon Beach, just down 101 from Astoria. Cannon Beach is dear to us in that we spent some of our honeymoon there and it is the home of Sleepy Monk, our coffee supplier for over a decade, and where we could get a great cup of coffee.

Going down 101 to Cannon Beach in the early morning would not be a problem, but I had my doubts about continuing down the Pacific Coast Highway on a prime beach weekend. Fortunately, US 26 heads east just north of Cannon Beach and we could nip down to Cannon Beach and then take 26 back through the Coast Range to the Willamette Valley, so that is what we set out to do.

We arrived at Sleepy Monk just after they opened to find 20 people or more ahead of us when we joined the end of the line. Standing on line, both of us were still rocking a bit from sailing; the feeling would subside in about three days. Despite the lengthy line, the wait for good coffee and wonderful bacon blue cheese scones was worth it. We sat outside and ate our scones before leaving Cannon Beach.

Coffee and Bacon Blue Cheese Scones

Once on highway 26, the traffic coming from the Portland metro area was nose-to-tail. Thankfully we were going the opposite direction. Wary of all this traffic, I decided to cut through wine country at Banks (through Gaston, Yamhill, Carlton, McMinnville, Amity, and West Salem) rather than risk taking 26 all the way in to I-5. The trip back was unprecedentedly uneventful. We did not get behind any combines or tractors in wine country or behind any RVs or gas tankers while climbing through the Cascades. Moreover, we took the new bypass around Sisters and avoided all that mess downtown. We arrived home in the early afternoon, a bit tired, rocking a bit still, and already looking forward to our next sailing trip in the San Juans.

Sailing Thursday - Friday: Friday Harbor to Cypress Island to Bellingham

Days 5 and 6 of Sailing the San Juans

Thursday, our final full day with Jon and Jette, dawned gray and chilly. Noise from other vessels was inevitable, being tied up among hundreds of them. Nearby boats started departing, motoring past our berth, around 0530 and by six, the motor drone woke me for good. I took advantage of great cell service in Friday Harbor to catch up with the world until others stirred. Continuing my trend, I would be the first one out of the cabin for coffee. I appreciate the trouble that Jette went to to make it for us.

Breakfast was an excellent waffle with hint of cornmeal. I imagine that being connected to shore power made running the electric waffle iron possible. In any case, I enjoyed my waffle as I always do, plain. I'm not one for butter, toppings, or syrup though there were plenty of all of these on the table.

After breakfast, we had a little over an hour before departure, so I grabbed my camera and went walkabout in the marina while Jon and Jette tidied from breakfast. I love wandering marinas, especially early in the morning, and just photographing whatever random things strike my eye. As I walked, it seemed that Purple Martins were calling loudly from every other mast.

Departing the marina at 1000, we motored off into the gray and chilly morning, with a few minor sprinkles. The wind and tides did not cooperate for sailing; we were under sail for only 15 minutes or so on our way to Cypress Island, which is technically not in the San Juans, situated just northwest of Anacortes.

Sea Lion, 87352, Flying Low at about 25 Knots
Wavery Look Shooting Through Plastic Bimini Windows

Although we arrived at Cypress Island at 1230, the more northly anchorages were taken and we pushed on south for another 45 minutes, during which time we ate tasty salmon tacos for lunch.

I Will Never Say No to Fish Tacos

Finally we arrived at Secret Harbor, home to a former salmon farm where the bottom still has remains of the anchoring chains for the salmon nets. Jon has three spots marked on his navigation system where he has fouled his anchor in the chains. He picked a spot that proved to have clean bottom and we got to witness yet another anchor dance by Jette. Earbuds installed, she does a little happy dance as she drops the anchor chain. In this case, she also attached an auxiliary line to the anchor in case it was needed to help free a fouled anchor.

Ready for the Anchor Dance

The tide was way too far out to go ashore; the dinghy needed deeper water to make the beach. We, Geni, most of all waited patiently for the tide to come in and while it was rising, the rain, heavy at times, set in for the duration. It was a shame really because the Washington DNR manages this island and I would have loved to have hiked it to see how it differed from Stuart and Sucia. I noticed that each island has a slightly different feel, more or less corresponding to how much rain each receives.

Finally the tide came in enough for Jon to take Geni ashore for a pee. I felt sorry for him, clad in a rain jacket, as he made his way ashore with Geni and Gillian. I knew it would be a production to get the dog back in the boat and dried off so that she did not get water all over the beautiful teak interior. As much as I was curious about the island, I was not going to get in the way of an expeditious trip to shore and back.

While Jon was ashore, the rest of us sat around under cover of the bimini in the rain, watching the wildlife around us. In addition to many more kingfishers, eagles seemed extremely prevalent in this area and we saw many plying the inshore waters. Moreover, we could see many seals lounging in the small bay with just their snoots out of the water. An intrepid seal even swam up to the boat, inquisitive, whiskers dripping. During this interlude, Jette fetched her guitar and gave us an impromptu concert.

Impromptu Concert on a Rainy Afternoon

Eagle at 400 Yards

Harbor Seals, Just Chilling

Reminds Me of Kachemak Bay in Alaska

Rain Does Not Bother the Guillemots

Rhinoceros Auklet with Mouthful of Sand Lances

Story of the Afternoon

Half Drowned after Walking the Dog

Our final evening aboard was a bit of a subdued affair on account of the streaming rain. Down in the warm and warmly lit salon, we had delightful grilled shrimp wrapped in prosciutto for appetizers followed by a dinner of King Salmon on risotto with broccolini. I enjoyed both but perhaps not as much as I enjoyed our second mini-concert from Jette after dinner, just before we retired to pack our belongings in preparation for an early morning that would see us racing the ebbing tide to make the marina with enough water to float the boat.

Friday morning dawned gray, but the rain had pretty much stopped during the night. I was awakened in the night a couple of times, once by an eagle screaming and once by several coyotes yapping back and forth. I had not thought that there might be coyotes on an island off the mainland, but that shows what I know. Finally, I was awakened for good at 0620 by a loud noise on the deck just above our heads.

Smoked Salmon Benedict

Our final meal on the Northwind was a delightful smoked salmon benedict that we gobbled just before getting underway back to Bellingham. The super low tide dictated we be at pier by 11, so we got under way early and quickly.

As we motored towards Bellingham, in several places, the water was actively churning where currents collided. Clearly, these currents were hemming up bait fish, because dozens of porpoises were working the area. In addition, we passed rafts of gulls, guillemots, and a few cormorants, all in search of a meal.

Blue Sky Trying to Peek Through

Just at the stroke of 11, we slid into the marina, threading our way through a pack of kids learning to sail in their little Sunfishes. Eager to get moving to avoid as much Friday afternoon traffic as possible, we said our goodbyes quickly and departed Bellingham going south to Astoria for the night. I freely admit that I was sad that the sailing part of our trip was over. The San Juans were beautiful and I would love to do it again.

Sailing Wednesday: Stuart Island to Friday Harbor

Day 4 of Sailing the San Juans

Compared to the prior two nights, Tuesday night into Wednesday morning saw me get a reasonable amount of sleep. I was dead asleep when out of nowhere, a bird landed on the open hatch above our cabin and tried on its impressive vocal skills. Soon it was joined by compatriots and the racket increased dramatically. With no chance of going back to sleep and foggy enough not to recognize the birds by voice, I poked my phone out the hatch in the gray morning to snap a photo of the offenders.

My Alarm Clock: Tree Little Birds with Apology to Bob Marley
Highly Vocal Purple Martins

I knew the birds were swallows, but I did not recognize their song which differed slightly from the familiar call of Barn Swallows. I had seen several species flying along the water surface in our anchorages, especially Barn and Violet-green Swallows. I also thought on several occasions that I had seen brilliant violet Purple Martins, but I had dismissed them as eastern birds, not realizing that they also inhabit coastal regions along the Pacific. But sure enough, my phone recorded three Purple Martins serenading the boat. It has been many decades since I saw a Purple Martin.

Before we lifted anchor, Jon and Jette treated us to delicious eggs with Gruyère and bacon baked in a scallop shell. It is amazing how good something so simple can taste.

Baked Egg, Gruyère, and Bacon: Delicious

Leaving Stuart Island for our destination at Friday Harbor on the big island, San Juan Island, we slogged easterly into the current with a 20+ knot headwind offering no chance to get under sail. Finally as we shifted our course to the south with the wind roughly abeam, we put up the just the jib without the mainsail and were ripping along heeled to starboard until we got fussed at from the galley. It was leaning a bit much for lunch prep. We continued under sail into Friday Harbor where we had an overnight reservation, arriving at 1230.

Once we were at the dock and connected to shore power, I think we all took advantage of the power to recharge our electronics while we ate lunch, a beautiful composed salad. A classic West Coast Louie salad, it had mounds of crab, shrimp, avocado, cucumber, tomato, egg, and celery, a perfect light and elegant lunch. As we dined, we heard the horns of the various ferries headed to and from Anacortes, with and without stops at other islands on the way.

On our tour of the San Juans, Wednesday afternoon and evening was scheduled free time and a chance for Jon and Jette to take a brief break from guests, though there was no shortage of chores to keep them busy. Earlier in the week, Ann and I booked at table at the restaurant Oystertale, for which we had a couple of recommendations. The other couples would visit other restaurants in the tiny town of 2750 people.

After lunch, Ann and I left the boat for the walk through the marina and then through the streets of the town that is the county seat of San Juan County. We saw all the highlights: ferry terminal, courthouse, board of education, high school, police station, city hall, etc. All sarcasm aside, parts of the town are quite cute and sitting on the hill looking out into the marina did not suck.

One of Many Ferries Leaving the Terminal

View of the Marina from Benches on Shore

Sidewalk Queen Anne's Lace, Daucus carota

Lilies Along the Street

Gorgeous White Hollyhocks

Northwind at the Dock

In the late afternoon, we wanted a cold bottle of white wine or rosé for our Happy Hour, so we went into a wine store that had a terrible selection. The only decent bottle was slightly overpriced Champagne, so we took that back to the boat to sip before dressing for dinner. I shot a couple of photos while we were sipping our wine.

Happy Hour Under the Bimini

Dressed for dinner, we made the five-minute walk to Oystertale where we had already met and talked with the owner during our walkabout of the town. It was just a little too nippy to sit outside so we shared a high-top at the back of the restaurant with a couple from West Seattle and their young niece who was bravely trying new foods.

Naturally, we started with six each of two different oysters, the briniest of the four types they had on offer that day. Then we progressed to a series of small plates including fish sliders, salmon croquettes, and mushrooms on a leek fonduta. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality. Both the wine list and the food were way above average. Toward the end of dinner, Chris and Leslie walked by after their dinner and they came in and joined us at our table. We walked back to the boat together.

Oystertale, Friday Harbor, Decent Food and Wine

Delightful Sicilian Rosé Sparkler

Mushrooms on Leek Fonduta

Back aboard Northwind, it seemed as if we might have something of a sunset, so I grabbed the camera and Ann and I made our way forward to watch the fireworks.

Waiting for Sunset

After the sun set, we descended to our cabin to rest for our trip tomorrow to Cypress Island, a trip that, if the forecasters were correct, could see rain. With that in mind, we closed the hatches in our cabin before turning in.