Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Coctél de Atún

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away...oops, wrong story. Let's call it 20 or more years ago back in Winchester VA before I opened my own restaurant, a very short-lived restaurant opened in an old house on the main drag. The chef and manager was the son of the owner of a small chain of Mexican restaurants in the Shenandoah Valley. These restaurants specialized in the food of the owner's home state of Jalisco.

Coctél de Atún
This new restaurant was the first foray for this family into our town. For the very short time that the restaurant was open, I tried to eat there when I could to help the restaurant survive. The son, Luis, was trying to do food that was not the usual knock-off predictable garbage Americanized watered down Mexican.

Luis and I got to know each other a bit and he would share tips about Jaliscan food with me and would always encourage me to order his off-menu specials. One blistering hot and extremely muggy day, I ordered a special called coctél at Luis' urging. I wasn't sure what to expect from a dish named cocktail.

What arrived at my table was a giant soup bowl of a spicy cold tomato soup, garnished with avocados and vegetables, and topped with several steamed shrimp. Of course! Coctél de camaron, shrimp cocktail, not a dish that I ever associated with Jalisco, but why not, with all its coastline?

What impressed me most about this dish how was delicious the tomato juice-based soup was and how refreshing it was on that blistering day. I never forgot this dish or how proud Luis was of it in all these years since.

A couple decades after this experience, I finally got around to doing my own version with #1 grade yellowfin tuna. My broth is tomato juice, clam juice, cucumber, lovage, garlic, cilantro, and chipotle. It's on the green side because I blended cilantro stems, lovage, and cucumber into the tomato juice to give it a bit more body. Vegetable garnishes are red onion, poblanos, orange peppers, tomatoes, cucumber, and avocado.

Delicious! Luis, wherever you are, thanks for the idea!


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