Friday, December 4, 2020

Sablefish with Balsamic-Roasted Onions and Quick Pickles

One of the best, most luxurious fishes on the planet is the sablefish, locally known as black cod, though it is not a cod at all. It is a fish that I have worked with sporadically over my career. We would get some flown in to the restaurant in Virginia from our purveyor in Alaska, but it would come in only infrequently along with our salmon and halibut, most of my fisherman's catch being sold to Japan.

Because it is so good, it wants to be treated simply so that it can be the star of the show. Moreover, because it is so high in fat (good fish fats), it wants something acidic to help balance it. In this case, I decided to use two different vinegars to help balance the dish: balsamic and rice.

Sablefish with Balsamic-Roasted Onions and Quick Pickles
I decided to plate the sablefish on a bed of onion slabs first marinated in and then roasted in balsamic vinegar. Then I decided to quick pickle some cucumber slices to garnish the top of the fish. The two sources of acid complemented the unctuous fish.

Onions with Balsamic Vinegar, Prior to Roasting
I slabbed a big onion and poured on a bit of balsamic vinegar and let the slabs stand for twenty minutes, turning the slices once, to marinate. After I sprinkled them with salt and pepper, I put them in a moderate oven until the onions were soft, but still holding together, and the balsamic vinegar reduced to a syrupy glaze.

Cucumber Slices in the Pickle Brine
Quick pickles are just that: pickles that take no time. They pick up a bit of the pickle brine, yet they retain the fresh snap and crunch of the raw cucumber. I make my brine by taste. I start with a bit of rice vinegar and then dilute it with water until I am happy with it. Then I stir in salt and sugar, tasting as I go, until I am happy with the flavor of the brine. In go the cucumbers for a short stay, an hour or less. These were in the brine just about an hour.

Searing the Skin Side of the Sablefish
Sablefish is among the easiest fish to cook for two reasons. First, because of the fat content, it is very hard to overcook it to the point where it is inedible. And second, because it has a built-in timer. When the flesh starts to flake apart, it is ready to serve. You can see the very visible flakes in the top photo.

I always serve sablefish with the crispy skin attached. It is a treat on par with and perhaps surpassing salmon skin. One day, perhaps I will make sablefish skin hand rolls as a special treat for Ann and me; I suspect it will be far better than the same sushi made with salmon skin.

As always, hats off to Northwest Fresh Seafood for impeccable fish.

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