Monday, May 22, 2023

Biscuits and Bloodies

Breakfast for dinner. Seriously, who doesn't love the occasional dinner of breakfast foods? Ann apparently loves breakfast for dinner so much that she invited Dyce and Rob over for biscuits with gravy and Bloody Marys for Saturday night dinner. I'm happy to cook whatever, so why not biscuits and gravy?

Split Biscuit Topped with Two Poached Eggs and Sausage Gravy
Biscuits are not something I make all the time, but are something I learned to make as a child by watching my mother, aunts, and grandmother make them often. It's a skill that takes practice because the dough is best made by feel; a dough that is rather wetter than drier gives the best results. After rubbing in the butter into the dry ingredients, I add buttermilk until I get a very wet dough that I can gently bring together without kneading. Kneading will develop the gluten and result in a less tender biscuit.

Cold Butter Cubes in with Flour, Salt, and Baking Powder
Lightly Rolled Out, Ready to Cut
Ready to Refrigerate
Out of the Hot 425F Oven
In making biscuits, you get more what we chefs call ovenspring (rise), if the dough is cold. The longer that the biscuit takes to reach temperature in the oven, the longer the steam from the butter and buttermilk and the CO2 from the baking powder will have to push the dough upwards. In short, if you can refrigerate your biscuits before baking them, you'll get higher and lighter biscuits. It's not necessary, of course, and nobody in my family did, but I'm the only pro chef in the family, and more to the point, for entertaining like Ann and I were doing, I'd rather have everything done in advance leaving more time for our guests.

For our breakfast masquerading as dinner, I ended up splitting the biscuits, one per person, topping each half with a poached-to-order egg and draping the whole in a blanket of sausage gravy. What makes for sexier meal than cutting into a just-so poached egg and have the yolk ooze all over the dish?

Bloody Mary
Pickles, Lime, Olives, and Spicy Chicharrones for Garnish 
Local Horseradish Vodka
Friday after returning from the grocery store, I put together some homemade Bloody Mary mix to mix with Kachka Horseradish vodka, a local vodka made for one of our favorite Portland restaurants and available at our local liquor store. I have to say that this batch of Bloody mix was not my best effort (I was playing around in the kitchen) and I promise to do better next time.

Start of the Gravy: Ground Pork, Herbs, and Spices
Gravy After Thickening
Making southern country-style sausage gravy is pretty much a snap, a simple béchamel sauce with sausage. I start with browning ground pork to which I add salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes, lots of garlic and sage, thyme, and a hint of rosemary. When the meat is cooked, I sprinkle over some flour and let it cook for a couple minutes. Finally I add milk, or in this case, half and half, and let it thicken. If it gets too thick, I thin with water. Just before serving, I taste and re-season. I often cannot get enough sage in my gravy.

Never fear about what to do with leftover biscuits. They're extremely useful to have on hand. For the four of us, I made a dozen biscuits, knowing that we'd probably only eat four of them. I made a enough gravy for a dozen biscuits as well. We sent home with Dyce and Rob all but two biscuits, which we set aside for dinner the following night. For that dinner, I split the two remaining biscuits, topped them with solidified cold gravy, and put them under the broiler. Once they were good and brown, I topped them with scrambled eggs and a tomato-pimentón sauce, for a very quick dinner of leftovers.

Leftovers: Broiled Biscuits and Gravy
Topped with Scrambled Eggs and Tomato-Pimentón Sauce

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