Sunday, May 26, 2024

Hood River: Mt. Hood and Peter Skene Ogden Viewpoint

Ann and I finally made our long-delayed trip to Hood River to take in the sights along the Columbia River. The previous post covers the day and a half that we spent in Hood River proper. This covers our trip back via Mt. Hood and the Peter Skene Ogden Viewpoint just north of Terrebonne.

There are two principal routes between Bend and Hood River. At Madras, you must decide whether to fork northeast and continue up US 97 toward Yakima or fork northwest and continue up Oregon 26 toward Portland to Oregon 35 into Hood River. On the trip to Hood River, we took US 97 so as to see White River Falls State Park north of Maupin. On the way back, we took Oregon 35, the Hood River Highway, in hopes of getting good views of Mt. Hood.

Although when I worked in Portland and when we lived in McMinnville, seeing Mt. Hood was a regular occurrence weather permitting, seeing the tallest peak in Oregon never gets old. The last time that we travelled the Hood River Highway, it was pouring rain and we couldn't see Hood at all. Given our sunny day, we hoped to rectify that on our trip back to Bend. We were not disappointed, pulling over three times to snap photos of this iconic mountain.

Hood River
Baby Blue Blooming Deerbrush, Ceanothus integerrimus
A Sight We Missed Since Moving to Bend
Lichen-Covered Oregon White Oaks, Quercus garryana
Most of our trip from Hood River to Mt. Hood along the Hood River was in brilliant sunshine. However, the closer to the mountain we got and the higher we climbed, the closer the clouds, looking so distant in the photos above, became. By the time we had climbed to 4400 feet just below Mt. Hood Meadows ski resort, there was snow on the ground. And as we climbed up to the ski resort, we entered the fog layer and our sunshine terminated. We started to go into Mt. Hood Meadows in hopes of shooting some photos of the vistas and wildflowers; however, it was quickly clear from the snow cover and the fog that photography was out of the question.

We continued on to the intersection of Oregon 26 near Government Camp and turned east headed for the Warm Springs Indian Reservation. Coming into Warm Springs from either direction descending into the canyons of the Deschutes River is always a spectacular sight and today was no different. Just beyond the casino in the town of Warm Springs, we took 97 south at Madras, for the final 45 miles of our trip home.

As many times as we have been up US 97, we have never stopped at the Peter Skene Ogden Viewpoint just outside Terrebonne and Smith Rock. I wanted to remedy that this trip to see the fantastic bridges and the Crooked River Canyon that we have glimpsed while speeding along US 97.

This viewpoint on the border of Jefferson County (Madras) and Deschutes County (Bend) is perched on the south side of the Crooked River and its canyon which is roughly 300 feet deep. Here you can see three bridges: the steel hinged-arch Crooked River Railroad Bridge over which the BNSF tracks run, the abandoned US 97 steel arch which is now a pedestrian bridge over the chasm, and easternmost, the current US 97 steel arch bridge.

Walking up to the edge of this canyon with its sheer walls plunging 30 stories is a bit of a gut check. The views of the three bridges, the Crooked River far below, and the Cascades as a backdrop are phenomenal.

Crooked River Railroad Bridge; Three Sisters in Background
Looking East, Abandoned US 97 Pedestrian Bridge and Current US 97 Bridge
Mt. Washington
Middle and North Sister
Mt. Washington
Creek Joining the Crooked River
Black Butte
Crooked River Far Below
Colony of Small, Nondescript Ground Squirrels at the Viewpoint
Probably Merriam's Ground Squirrels
After driving by the always beautiful Smith Rock, we hit the usual traffic in Redmond and then the construction mess just north of Bend where they are finishing up the 97 realignment, we finally got onto the Parkway and arrived home about noon.

Hood River: Hiding from the Crappy Weather

Ann and I finally made our long-delayed trip to Hood River to take in the sights along the Columbia River. The previous post outlines our trip and our stops along the way to Hood River. This post covers the day and a half that we spent in Hood River proper.

Around 2pm on Tuesday, after having visited White River Falls State Park and Rowena Crest Viewpoint overlooking the Columbia Gorge, we pulled into a parking space in the Hood River waterfront just opposite pFriem Family Brewers. Given that we had not eaten yet and that the weather was windy and rainy, we just wanted to go some place warm. It seemed that seeing the sights in Hood River was out of the question; even seeing across the Columbia to White Salmon, Washington was sketchy at times because of the rapidly moving cloud cover.

Washington State Barely Visible Across the Columbia
The weather would not improve over the next day, but our mood certainly did sitting at the bar at pFriem sampling beers from one of the best Oregon brewers. Later on in the afternoon after sampling one of the high-gravity beers on tap, I asked our bartender if he would put together a six-pack of bottles of their barrel-aged bottles. He sent us home with a collection of stouts, porters, dark ales, and a quadrupel. I can imagine that these will be fun to get into next winter on a cold day next to the fire.

Six-Pack of Barrel-Aged Beers to Take Home
We had the good fortune to be seated at the bar with a couple from Liverpool with whom we talked all afternoon and into the evening. They are Gareth and Vicky Morgan of Dead Crafty Beer Company in Liverpool, over here for a weeks-long reconnoiter of the American craft brew scene. They are doubtless scouting for more beers for their pub, one of the very few craft brew-focused pubs in England. We saw that the following evening they were in Portland at Breakside and Great Notion. They certainly made great choices of places to visit while over here. Next trip to the UK, we'll have to make a side trip to Liverpool to visit with them.

Gareth and Vicky Morgan of Dead Crafty Beer Company in Liverpool
We have long ago given up on finding decent food at restaurants, so mostly when we travel, it's pub grub or food truck food. We were pleasantly surprised by the food at pFriem. We ended up having brussels sprouts, poutine, and a burger and they were all made carefully.

Poutine, Pub Grub at pFriem
After taking our leave of pFriem, Gareth, and Vicky, we drove up the hill into town to find our room, perhaps five minutes from the waterfront. Hood River is dead simple to navigate, but the rain and fog made it difficult to see in the dark, while road construction caused a couple of detours. The weather kept us from doing anything more in the evening and truth be told, the next day.

Wednesday morning we got motivated in the late morning to go find some coffee and breakfast. Ann had already decided that she wanted to try the Pine Street Bakery; her mission on our trips seems to be to find us good coffee houses. The baked goods, especially the English muffin on the breakfast sandwich, were really good; the coffee, not so much, thick, dark, and murky.

Breakfast at Pine Street Bakery
After going back to our room to hole up against the rain and chill wind, we decided weather be damned, to head down to the waterfront around noon. Every few minutes, a new squall would come flying up the river from the west, raising whitecaps and slashing rain. In between squalls, I ventured out of the car for about ten minutes to walk by the river. That was all I wanted of this weather and we headed to find some lunch.

One Lone Boarder in the Screaming Wind and Rain
Evil Invasive, Shining Geranium, Geranium lucidum
You Must Admit that the Red Foliage is Beautiful
A Rose on the Banks of the Columbia River
We took refuge from the nasty weather in another waterfront storefront called Solstice Pizza. The pizzas were well-cooked and worth trying. The pizza aficionado in us would say that the crust, while appropriately thin, crisp, and bubbly, didn't seem to have any flavor from the fermentation. Perhaps it just need a touch of salt. And we found the crusts very dry, especially on the Margherita. The baby arugula on the salami pie was primo. The ratio of toppings to crust was just right.

Given the weather and our lack of enthusiasm for doing anything in it, we asked for two more pies to go for dinner back at our room. It turned out to be a good move, for the rain continued and the crusts acquired a little humidity while sitting until dinner, rendering them much better than the lunch pies consumed at the restaurant.

Pizza at Solstice
About Happy Hour, the sun started trying to poke through the clouds, motivating us to want to go explore a bit more of Hood River. Alas, the sun was funning us and disappeared behind thick clouds as soon as we left our room.

We had three target breweries to try on our trip: pFriem, Ferment, and over across the river, Everybody's. We decided to skip Full Sail and Double Mountain. Full Sail, the OG brewery in the Hood that spawned all the other breweries, ceased to be relevant some years ago. As for Double Mountain, we just haven't cared for their beers that we have tasted back home in Bend. The slashing rain curbed our desire to cross the river to visit Everybody's, so we tried Ferment, an unknown quantity, on the waterfront near pFriem.

We only had an appetite for a beer apiece in this very modern space where the tasting room is on the second floor along a glassed-in atrium overlooking the brewery floor. I think we both liked the homier more pub-like feel of pFriem as opposed to the beautiful modern PNW architecture of Ferment, but that's just us. The uncomfortably warm tasting room also hastened our departure. The beers we tasted, one IPA and one hazy IPA, were unfiltered and filling, but tasty. I'd like to go back in the future and sample more of their pours.

We Stopped into Ferment for a Beer
After our beer, we went back to the room and caught up on some TV and reading, the weather just not making our stay in Hood River all that exciting. After our to-go pizzas, we called it a fairly early night.

We awoke the next morning to, wait for it, sunshine, brilliant sunshine streaming in our windows! After packing our stuff, we headed down the hill to have breakfast at Egg River Cafe. We enjoyed the casual service and the food, along with plenty of coffee. Ann got a country-fried steak and I got a chorizo breakfast burrito, way more food than we really wanted. After that large feed, we decided to skip lunch.

Mt. Adams, Finally Visible Across the River
Breakfast at Egg River Cafe
California Poppies on Oak Street
After a quick fill-up of gas, we headed on our way back to Bend, driving south along Hood River Highway to Mount Hood, rather than going back through The Dalles, the way we came. This part of our trip is covered in the next post, the final one of the Hood River trilogy.

Hood River: Maupin, White River Falls, Rowena Crest

Way back in COVID times when we were still living in McMinnville, Ann and I planned a couple-day getaway to Hood River in the heart of the Columbia Gorge. COVID put the kibosh on that trip and what with the turmoil of COVID, moving to Bend, and the death of two parents, we never got the trip rescheduled, until now.

When we moved across the country to Oregon from Virginia, we were intrigued when we drove through, taking the highly scenic US 30 from The Dalles into Hood River before taking Hood River Highway inland to head for our new home in the Willamette Valley. Sadly, the day we passed through Hood River, it was rainy and ugly and there were no views of Mt. Hood. We hoped to rectify this on our trip this week to Hood River.

Naturally, after a couple of weeks of beautiful weather, when we set out for Hood River the sky was gray and overcast, with rain almost a certainty according to the forecasters. Also quite naturally, as we drove through light and intermittent showers up Highway 97, there were zero views of any mountains, let alone Mt. Hood. It would rain lightly from 1:00pm on and during the night in Hood River, it would be heavy at times.

Our drives north have never taken us on US 197, the cut-off that runs from US 97 just below Shaniko to I-84 in The Dalles. We've been up 97 to Yakima and east to Umatilla and Walla Walla, but never had we been through the stretch of highway that runs along the ridgeline above the Deschutes River.

As we headed further north, we started seeing more and more wildflowers in bloom. Although we live a couple hours south of here, we also live at a considerably higher altitude, so that our wildflowers are at least a couple of weeks behind the northern part of Oregon as it approaches the Columbia River. To admire these flowers, we stopped on the hillside as we were descending into the Deschutes River canyon just above the town of Maupin, base camp for rafting the lower Deschutes.

Deschutes River Bridge in Maupin
Hillsides Tinged Purple from Cheatgrass Seeds

Above the Deschutes River in Maupin, Oregon
Lupine, Lupinus sp., and Rock Wild Buckwheat, Eriogonum sphaerocephalum

One of my goals in heading this direction this time of year was to see White River Falls with a lot of water in it. The White River originates from snowmelt on Mt. Hood between the Timberline and Mt. Hood Meadows ski resorts and runs almost due east into the Deschutes River. White River Falls is just a mere three river miles above the confluence of the White and Deschutes.

Top of White River Falls Canyon

White River Falls is the site of an abandoned power plant, called the Tygh Valley Powerplant or the White River Powerplant. Built around 1901, it was put out of business by the large hydroelectric dams on the Columbia.

Looking Downriver, Tygh Valley Powerhouse Lower Right
Abandoned Tygh Valley Powerhouse, ca. 1901

Despite the light drizzle, the canyon through which the river flows turned out to be a good place to photograph wildflowers, many of which are the first of their kind that I have seen in bloom this year. Near us in Bend, it is still really too early for a lot of flowers.

First Yellow Salsify of 2024, Tragopogon dubius
False Sunflower, Helianthella uniflora
Silverleaf Phacelia, Phacelia hastata
Oregon Sunshine, Eriophyllum lanatum
First Yarrow of 2024, Achillea millefolium
Common Fiddleneck, Amsinckia menziesii
Arrowleaf Wild Buckwheat, Eriogonum compositum This One is Yellow; I Saw More White Ones Than Yellow
American Vetch, Vicia americana
Carey's Balsamroot, Balsamorhiza careyana
Carey's Balsamroot Bloom
Rock Wild Buckwheat, Eriogonum sphaerocephalum Like Most Buckwheat, Starts Budding Red
Then Loses the Red as it Matures
Fully Open Rock Wild Buckwheat
Red Osier Dogwood Stand by River, Cornus sericea
From the top of the canyon to the bottom is a short walk on a somewhat steep trail but, despite the dire warnings on the state parks site, it is not all that difficult to navigate. As I was climbing back up and out of the canyon, I heard a bird with a musical song, calling over and over. And as I got closer to the top, I could make out a tiny little finch-like bird atop a steel pipe. Only when I got close enough to photograph it and then view the expanded image on my camera did I see that it was a Lazuli Bunting. While I am very familiar with its eastern cousin, the Indigo Bunting, I am not really versed in the songs of the western buntings.

Male Lazuli Bunting in Full Serenade
From White River Falls, it was a quick downhill drive into The Dalles where we picked up the old scenic US 30 that rises above the more modern Interstate 84. The drive from The Dalles to Mosier, the next town downstream on the Columbia, is winding, scenic, covered at this time of year in wildflowers, and has some pretty hairy and scary turns that make it seem you are driving straight off a cliff.

In short order, we climbed to the top of Rowena Crest and stopped at the viewpoint offering panoramic views of the Columbia River Gorge as well as countless wildflowers and several hiking trails. It is also the home of the Tom McCall Nature Preserve. We missed the peak wildflowers at the preserve by a week or so, but still there were lots to see, waving bravely in the terribly gusty winds that left my lips windburned.

Annie Pointing out Flowers in Front of a Sea of Non-Native Bachelor's Button, Centaurea cyanus
Hairy Vetch, Vicia villosa, and Coastal Manroot, Marah oregana
Looking Towards Idaho
Arrowleaf Wild Buckwheat I-84 and the Columbia River Below
Hairy Vetch and Bachelor's Button, Neither Natives
Columbia Desert Parsley, Lomatium columbianum
Silverleaf Phacelia, Phacelia hastata
Oregon Sunshine, Eriophyllum lanatum
Carey's Balsamroot Bloom
Horseshoe Bend at Rowena Crest

All along the roadside climbing up to Rowena Crest and back down, we saw a couple of shrubs blooming white, one clearly Red Elderberry but the other one unknown to me. Driving along the road, I kept telling Ann that it looked like a Ceanothus, similar in some ways to our own Snowbrush, Ceanothus velutinus. And so it turned out to be a cousin that does not live in our part of Oregon at all, C. integerrimus, commonly called in Deerbrush. We saw it blooming in all shades from white to baby blue, the color of Vinca minor.

Deerbrush, Ceanothus integerrimus
On the drive down from Rowena Crest in the little hamlet of Mosier, we saw some Black-tail Deer and any number of small ground- and tree-squirrels. Where the remnant of old US 30 terminates in Mosier, we were obligated to take I-84 west for a couple of minutes until we exited into Hood River. It being about 2:00 in the afternoon, we headed down to the waterfront in search of a beer and some lunch.

This story continues in the next two posts.

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