Italy Day 7, Verona: Celebrating our Anniversary

Monday, September 30

Verona, Verona, Veneto 

Highlight: Wonderful anniversary dinner

Lowlight: Trying to find parking in Verona

After our late night in Bologna, we had to get up and leave our apartment by 10:00. We got away from Castelfranco without any issues, thankfully. After a quick drive north of about 90 minutes, leaving Emilia-Romagna for the Veneto and crossing the Po River, we arrived in the spectacularly beautiful downtown of Verona, situated on the banks of the Adige River.

Verona is supposedly the town of "romance" and makes a lot of hay from the fake so-called Juliet's Balcony and other Romeo and Juliet-related stuff. On this trip, if I had interest in Shakespeare, I'd be in a totally different country. We had no interest in any of that nonsense and steered clear. Fake Shakespearian tourist schlock aside, Verona is a delightful town and we definitely did not spend enough time here. Of all the places we visited in Italy, we would go back to both Pistoia and especially to Verona.

Our Neighborhood in Verona
Our B&B to left of Chiesa di Santo Stefano (center bottom)
Castel di San Pietro (center top) and Walls of Adige River (right)

Our B&B, conveniently located on the north (technically the east) bank of the Adige River just by the Ponte Pietra, had reserved parking, a rarity in a lot of cities. However, I did not clearly understand from the directions where I should park. Trying to understand the parking situation, I made three laps of the block where our B&B was located.

Finally, with the help of the B&B owner and his future son-in-law, I finally got our large 5-door Jeep in the small parking space allocated to our room. It did not help that they kept telling me to park parallel to the yellow lines. The only yellow line visible from the driver's side was one that was perpendicular to the street. On the passenger side was the yellow line that they meant and that line was at an angle to the street. I think they thought I was an idiot as I kept parking at 90 degrees to the street.

After unpacking, we took a brief walk to a bank to get some cash to pay our room tax, something new to us in Verona. Most cities in Italy, it seems, have a room tax and B&B owners want it in cash when you arrive along with a photo of your passport. Who knew? After visiting the bank, we crossed the Ponte Garibaldi and made a brief loop through the old section of town, coming back to the room via the Ponte Pietra. Knowing I would have tomorrow to shoot photos, I did not shoot a lot of photos in the harsh light of midday. 

As we crossed the Ponte Garibaldi, we could see and hear that the Adige River was screaming fast and silty like the glacial melt rivers of Alaska, likely the result of rains and flooding from the recent storms that plagued Europe. All along the banks of this river here and further north we would see vast amounts of Jerusalem Artichokes in bloom. We made our way to the Piazza dei Signori, lined with fabulous palazzos and featuring a statue of Dante in the middle.

From the Ponte Garibaldi: the Belltower of the Duomo di Verona

Jerusalem Artichokes, Everywhere in Northern Italy

Piazza dei Signori, Statue of Dante Alighieri

Palazzo di Cansignorio (l), Palazzo della Ragione (r)

Torre dei Lamberti

More of the Piazza dei Signori

Just off to the side of the piazza are the crazy Gothic Scaliger Tombs, a group five monuments resembling Gothic steeples that celebrate the Scaliger family, rulers of Verona in the 13th and 14th centuries. The monuments are on the street, but separated by decorative metal grilles/fences.

The Scaliger Tombs

Random Streetscape

Super Narrow Passageway

Castel San Pietro (atop the hill)

Ponte Pietra, "Stone Bridge"
Dates to 100 BC, Blown up by Germans in WWII, Rebuilt from Rubble in 1957

Got Snacks?

Santuario della Madonna di Lourdes

Octagonal Lantern Atop Santo Stefano

Basilica di San Giorgio

Back at the room, we both took naps. Last night was a late one and we were resting for our anniversary celebration this evening at Osteria Ponte Pietra Ristorante at the foot of the bridge, less than two minutes from our apartment. Ann got a recommendation for this restaurant when we were back in the US and made reservations. This would be one of the nicest restaurants in which we would dine in Italy. 

The restaurant, listed in the Guide Michelin for Verona, is nicely and eclectically appointed and feels comfortable. When we arrived, the first guests for the night, we were offered one of the few tables out on the balcony overlooking the river. It proved to be too cold and extremely noisy from the raging floodwaters of the Adige, so we were seated in the dining room.

We had quite an enjoyable evening talking with our service team and owner/manager Gianni Pascucci about local wines, catering to tourists, the restaurant business, and all things food. We started with Prosecco and then got Gianni to recommend us a local bottle from his impressive wine list. 

Starting with Ca' del Bosco Dosage Zero Sparkling

Amuse: Baccala (I think; I forget) Cake

Uovo Cotto a Bassa Temperatura, Crema di Parmigiano Reggiano
 e Tartufo Estivo
Soft Egg and Truffles: Breakfast of Champions

Toast di Acciughe, Zucchine e Burrata
Best Bite of the Night: Silky Mousse Like Tonnato, Pickled Zucchine

Zyme Valpolicella Classico Superiore
from Local Legend Celestino Gaspari

Fusilloni “Cavaliere Cocco”, Patate, Ricci di Mare, e Provola Affumicata
Cocco Makes Great Pasta
I Wonder about Pairing Potatoes and Pasta; The Uni was Lost

Pappardelle con Finferli, Fegatini di Pollo, e Levistico
Chanterelles, Chicken Liver, and Lovage: What's Not to Like?

Polpo Arrostito, Burrata, Fagiolini, Basilico, e Pinoli
Octopus Got a Bit Lost in the Garnishes

Maialino Iberico Affumicato, Pak-choi, Pistacchio, e Yoghurt
Pork Nicely Smoked and Well Cooked

Crème Brûlée Salvia e Limone
Tart and More Savory than Sweet, Sage is Unusual Touch

Amaro from the Veneto

We may have been the first customers to arrive, but we were also the last to leave, busy as we were chatting with the staff. We got hugs all around as we left the charming little restaurant and made our way out onto the bridge and headed home.

On the Ponte Pietra

As we walked home, we noticed how magical Verona is when all lit up at night. After dropping Ann off at the apartment, I went out near midnight to shoot some photos. I wish I had a tripod to have taken better photos in the black night. The photos below are crap, but at least they will convey some idea of the magic at night in Verona.

Santo Stefano

The Tower at Sant'Anastasia

Ponte Pietra

Raging Adige

Basilica di San Giorgio

A Final Look Downstream from the Ponte Pietra

Italy Day 6, Bologna: A Wonderful Sunday

Sunday, September 29

Castelfranco, Modena, Emilia-Romagna

Highlight: Hanging out on the piazze with Ann, drinking wine

Lowlight: Mad amounts of tourists

Yesterday saw us visit Modena and today would be a day for a trip down the Motor Valley to the Modenese archrival, Bologna, a trip from the land of Ferrari to the land of Lamborghini, a trip from the land of gnocchi fritti to the land of crescentine.

Mid-Afternoon Break in Bologna

We awoke Sunday morning wondering about the weather for our trip into Bologna after hearing rain on the skylights and windows in the night. We needn't have worried; it would prove to be a delightful day.

We managed to get ourselves together for the 11:00 train to Bologna, a trip of about 20 minutes. As soon as we arrived in Bologna at the large station, dwarfing that in Modena, it was as if someone had kicked over an anthill of tourists, a bit of a nightmare. We thought it was a crowded nightmare situation, but we had no idea about nightmare until we arrived in Firenze at the end of the trip. That nightmare made our day in Bologna seem tame, but Firenze is a story for another post.

The large throngs were mainly Italian tourists, but I heard German, Russian, Texan, Australian, French, and Spanish. Among the locals out for a Sunday stroll and Sunday lunch, we saw oodles of Dachshunds and Weimaraners, dogs that are rare in our part of the US. We saw not a single "Bend dog" as we like to call the flavor-of-the-month poodle crosses such as labradoodles.

We hastily headed for the Parco della Montagnola, the largest green space in the old city, to get away from the maddening crowds at the train station and the Via dell’Indipendenza. As soon as we stepped through the gates, life quieted down once again and we walked up the steps to a large landing overlooking the old walls of Bologna. Right here in the middle of the city next to where the old walls and the Galliera Gate were located sits the ruins of the 14th century Castello di Galliera.

Steps up into il Parco della Montagnola

Light Fixture at Top of Stairs

Ruins of Castello di Galliera from 1330s

We walked clockwise around the big park, exiting on the south side and picking up the Via dell’Indipendenza, one of the major north-south streets in Bologna. At this point, our solitude was gone and we joined the throngs on the major thoroughfare, closed to traffic for several hours on Sunday. We took advantage of cafe tables set up on the cobblestone-clad street to get some much-needed coffee.

Coffee is a thing in Italy (and all over Europe) but it is a very different thing than in the US, although sadly, you can find Starbucks in most major cities (and McDonald's too). Ann selected a cafe at random and we got a couple of coffees. Coffee in Italy means espresso, so I got a doppio (a double) and Ann got a caffè latte to accompany her sfoglia.

The coffee from Venturato was really good (and also the barista pulled a good shot). We had Illy and Lavazza and other unnamed brands during our sojourn in Italy and I want to say that the Venturato was the best of all. We enjoyed it so much that we ordered another round to get us ready to face the crowds. I am still blown away by the prices in Italy. Can you imagine a bill of 15€ for four coffees, a water, and a pastry? Water is rarely free anywhere in Italy. 

Happy to Have Coffee!

Sfoglia with Pistachio Crema for Ann's Breakfast

After coffee, we ambled further down the middle of the cobblestone Via dell’Indipendenza marveling at the people and sights around us, headed in the general direction of the Piazza del Nettuno and the Piazza Maggiore.

Arched Walkways Along the Via dell’Indipendenza

Are We Back in Oregon?

Piazza Maggiore

Biblioteca Salaborsa, the Main Library in Bologna

I Love the Decorative Dovetail Crennelations

Photobombed by a Pigeon

Fontana del Nettuno in Front of Palazzo d'Accursio  

Fontana del Nettuno

Love the Interplay of Clouds and Palazzos

Basilica di San Petronio on the Piazza Maggiore

Is This a Fancy Horse Hitching Ring?

Palazzo d'Accursio

Palazzo dei Notai and the Palazzo d'Accursio

Window Detail of the Palazzo d'Accursio

Base of Asinelli Tower, Swallowtail Crenellations

Striking Juxtaposition of the
Modern Entry to the Cinema Modernissimo
with the WWI-era Palazzo Ronzani Behind

Why am I Humming Rodgers and Hammerstein's "My Favorite Things?"

Palazzo della Mercanzia

Detail of the Garisenda Tower, Asinelli Tower Behind

Basilica Collegiata dei Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano

One of the Larger Tiny Cars We Saw

Before we left Castelfranco, we had picked a highly recommended osteria for lunch. By the time we found it at 13:15 on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, there were already 150 or more people on line waiting for tables. So we wandered on a bit further and found a small trattoria on a side street with nice-looking outdoor seating. After a 10-minute wait, we got a table for two and proceeded to dine in the Italian style for the next 2-1/2 hours.

We found the food to be acceptable if not high art, probably better than food in a random restaurant in the US. We tried to stay away from tourist food and it seems our server was happy with our choices. When I saw grilled mortadella on the appetizer list, I had to have it because grilled bologna! I ordered a basket of tigelle and crescentine to go with it. At last, we would get our gnocchi fritti which the Bolognese call crescentine, probably just to have something to argue about with the Modenese.

We ordered two primi after the antipasti. Ann got ricotta tortelloni with sage butter and I ordered a plate of gramigna because I had never heard of that cut and wanted to check it out for myself. The little curlicue gramigna is called paglia e fieno ("straw and hay") meaning that it would be half straw-colored pasta and half green spinach pasta. Ann thought the sfoglia from which the tortelloni was made was a bit too thick and my gramigna was a bit overcooked and the ragù was bland. Not the best food, not the worst, but we had a great time nonetheless.

Cheers with a Local Sangiovese Superiore

Mortadella alla Griglia

Crescentine e Tigelle

Tortelloni di Ricotta con Burro e Salvia

Gramigna Paglia e Fieno al Ragù di Salsiccia

Well, mostly we had a great time. The Russians next to us fired up cigarettes after their lunch and naturally, the wind was drifting our way. And, I had to shoo away one beggar and a couple of south Asians selling some kind of electronic device that kind of resembled an old-school dongle for the back of a PC. I don't know what it was, nor did I want to interrupt our lunch to find out.

It turns out that our waiter was Cuban. I found it easier to speak with her in Spanish than Italian. I would become more and more comfortable with Italian with each passing day, but this was early days in our vacation.

After lunch, we would wander more without any real aim other than hitting side streets and looking for interesting things. Ultimately, towards dark, we would end up outside a little cafe to enjoy mixed bruschette and Nebbiolo.

So Many Rooftop Gardens in Bologna

Palazzo Re Enzo

The Two Leaning Towers of Bologna: Garisenda (l) and Asinelli (r)

Basilica of San Giacomo Maggiore

Tucked Away Courtyard of Former
Convento dei Santi Gregorio e Siro

Stopping at Another Cafe for a Snack in Lieu of Dinner

Nebbiolo and Bruschetta

Aussies at Table Next to Us
What is the Attraction of Aperol Spritz for Tourists?
We Saw Americans Killing Them at 10 a.m.

It was pretty well dark by the time we finished our wine and bruschette at the little out-the-way cafe. We took this as our cue to start heading back to the train station and our apartment in Castelfranco. It just so happened that we wandered by a bunch of food purveyors all lit up at night.

We're Not in Parma, but We're Close!

So Many Prosciutti, So Little Time!

A Wall of Parmigiano!

Last Shot: Basilica di San Martino

So we had a bit of difficulty getting home: apparently you cannot buy all train tickets at all machines. I finally gave up trying to get a ticket back to Castelfranco because it was not a listed designation and asked a TrenItalia worker in broken Italian. He pointed me to another machine tucked away around the corner. I still have no idea what the deal was. 

This was our second day of real walking. Between yesterday and today we put in 12 miles and we arrived at the apartment healthily tired and ready to sleep. Tomorrow, we would head to Verona.